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Six years ago, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”, a distinctive take on the Speedmaster Moonwatch featuring a Moon surface-patterned movement and dial. Basically an amalgamation of the all-ceramic Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) with the Moonwatch, the model has now undergone a significant mechanical upgrades with a new METAS-certified calibre, while preserving essentially the same design. Initial thoughts The original Apollo 8 was noteworthy for challenging the traditional concept of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. While it had the same movement and dimensions, the materials, styling, and finishing were entirely different. Visually, it was a major departure from the familiar Moonwatch. The latest version sticks to the same aesthetic, so it doesn’t bring much novelty in terms of appearance, save for a rocket-shaped seconds hand. But it does have an upgraded movement, essentially the next-generation Moonwatch movement finished in the Apollo 8 style. As is often the case with Omega, incremental improvements to existing models are a means to explore new concepts or technologies, which in the case of the original Apollo 8 would have been the textured lunar-surface finishing. This new model would have been more significant if a more developed or advanced version of the texturing had been applied, setting it apart more obviously from its predecessor. Priced at US$14,300, the upgraded Apollo 8 falls sits at the middle of the price range for the cera...

Is a little titanium rocket all there is to add to the new DSOTM?The post 2024 Omega Speedmaster Apollo 8 Dark Side of the Moon – what is actually new? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s proving to be a bumper crop year for dragon-themed watches, and brands from all walks of life are deploying their creativity to create something inspiring for the upcoming Year of the Dragon. While it’s only natural to associate Roger Dubuis‘ Excalibur collection with the wonderfully over-the-top Arthurian-inspired Knights of the Round Table editions, it […]

George Cramer looks across more than one hundred years of evolution of what may well be called the world's first pilot's wristwatch: the Cartier Santos-Dumont.

Six years later, and this iteration of the DSOTM is now METAS-certified and finely finished.

This watch roll protects your precious timepieces with the energy of a fiery dragon.The post Protect your watches this Lunar New Year with the Wolf Year of the Dragon Triple Watch Roll appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A January launch of a new Speedmaster (on a Tuesday, of course) has become a bit of a tradition for Omega over these past few years. Today, Omega has announced a new Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, which at first glance (and maybe a second and third glance) will look a whole lot like an earlier iteration of the popular ceramic version of the chronograph. The newest addition, though, has a few little updates that are likely to appeal to the most hardcore Speedmaster collectors. “Little” is the operative word here for at least one of them, which also might be the most technically impressive. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is a follow up to the first edition of this watch, which was released in 2018 to mark the 50th anniversary of the mission. That original Apollo 8 watch was an immediate hit. It combined a lot of the modern tech and materials of contemporary ceramic Speedmasters with the familiar and highly regarded manually wound movement that is so much a part of the Speedy’s DNA. The rendition of the lunar surface on the dial was also particularly well executed and impressive.  The new Apollo 8 features an updated movement, Calibre 3869, which is analogous to Calibre 1869 used in the previous version. This new movement has been specced to match Calibre 3861, the manually wound caliber at the heart of the current Moonwatch. It’s a significant upgrade from the older movement, and has been fitted with a co-axial escapement and meets all the requir...

A big watch on a big night for Mr. Culkin.

Genus, founded by Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières in 2019, has wowed the watch world with its wildly creative and kinetic time displays. This year has been particularly rich in dragon-themed watches, but the dragons gracing the Genus Dragon dial are a world apart. Just ahead of the Chinese Year of the Dragon, Genus releases […]

There is a particular appeal to a stealthed-out tool watch. Maybe it’s the idea that the original design has been placed on the backburner for a more urgent, clandestine, reason. Or the ironic low-key aesthetic that often makes even more of a visual impact. We’ve seen various brands take the “blackout” approach, from Omega to Tudor, and the results are typically pretty intriguing. Seiko currently has a trio of black and orange watches under the Prospex collection that it calls “The Black Series”, but today it infuses the lineup with two new references that take things a step further by eliminating any colored accents and going for an (almost) all-out black look. These are the new 2024 Black Series SRPK43 and SSC923. The first of the new references, the SRPK43 is a familiar form but with a new face. It is 45mm wide but with a stout 47.4mm lug to lug measurement. Thickness is 13.2mm. The turtle-style stainless steel case and accompanying bracelet are, naturally, all black, as is the unidirectional ceramic bezel. In a nice touch, the day and date wheels have matching black backgrounds.  The only use of color is in the lume, which Seiko calls “Green Lumibrite Pro”. In the light, it is a pale green; at night it shines a more vivid green. The intended effect is to give the impression of peering through night vision goggles, and we’ll have to see the watches in person to assess how well Seiko has hit their mark. The SRPK43 is powered by the automatically-windin...

The auction is live on Bring A Trailer and all proceeds will be donated to Health Care For US.

The connection between Omega and space exploration isn’t to be demonstrated anymore. While born as a racing chronograph, the 1957 Speedmaster is now known by all as the official watch of astronauts, as the watch worn by Apollo 11 crew members… It’s nicknamed the Moonwatch for a reason. Yet, there’s more than this specific version […]

The 1960s stands out as one of the most influential decades in shaping modern design and culture. Two decades into post-War America, the ’60s embodied hope, opportunity, and expansion. This transformative era not only aimed for the moon but also ushered in a jet-setting culture that offered a fresh, futuristic perspective on classic mid-century design. Drawing inspiration from this dynamic period, the Marlin Jet, the latest addition to the Marlin line, encapsulates the essence of the ’60s. True to the Marlin lineage, the Jet seamlessly blends contemporary and retro design elements into a versatile daily-wear timepiece. With a modest 38mm size, this watch effortlessly transitions from day to evening, fitting under a suit jacket or hoodie without losing its sense of style. Beyond its brushed 38mm stainless steel case, the Marlin Jet’s allure lies in the domed Hesalite crystal, a defining feature that adds a new dimension to Timex’s retro-futuristic vision. This crystal spans the entire top surface, smoothly integrating into the flat case sides and leaving only the lugs exposed. The transition from the case sides to the case back mirrors the crystal’s dome, creating a coherent case profile and adding significantly to an aesthetic that is reminiscent of what “futuristic” looked like in the Jet Age. Additional design highlights include the silver-white concave dial, featuring a crosshair pattern and a 24-hour format sub-dial beside the 9 o’clock marker, bringing...

Streamlined and infused with just the right amount of '60s charm, the Marlin Jet Automatic makes a compelling argument for premium style without the premium price tag.

Seiko extends their Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar series with two new watches inspired by the colours of the sunset over Tokyo.

Nearly a year ago, Zenith made a striking debut with the all-new Pilot collection, introducing the Big Date Flyback chronograph and the Automatic models, both available in either stainless steel or black ceramic. A departure from the earlier Zenith Pilot references, these watches showcased a fresh look, featuring a new case and crown, dial designs, […]

Just before LVMH Watch Week, Zenith expands the new Pilot collection with two new models.The post Zenith keeps blue to themselves with the Pilot Collection Boutique Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A new Overseas designed for more wrists that feels like the future (and the past) of midsized watches.

Originally presented in 2012 to that Year of the Dragon – and reputedly priced at over US$3 million at the time – the Parmigiani Le Dragon et la Perle du Savoir has been restored just in time for this Year of the Dragon that soon begins in February 2024. Now renamed Tempus Fugit, the automaton made up of a dragon chasing a flaming pearl, a traditional motif in Chinese culture. Initial thoughts This exemplifies Parmigiani’s mastery of ultra-high-end automatons and clocks that were a key part of its offerings in the 1990s. During that period, only Parmigiani and Gerald Genta specialised in such extraordinary creations. Although this was produced in 2012, it certainly evokes the sculptural automaton clocks of that earlier period. Such extravagant automatons clocks are rare today – only Van Cleef & Arpels regularly creates such one-offs now – but are undeniably impressive. Like its peers, the dragon automaton combines goldsmithing, gem-setting, automata construction, and of course clockmaking, all techniques mastered by Parmigiani thanks to its restoration department, which was historically the best in Switzerland. Naturally, the brand’s affordable and relatively more ordinary wristwatch offerings don’t possess the same extravagant craft, but it is good to know the scope of the brand’s capabilities. The dragon chasing a pearl A familiar motif in Chinese folklore, the dragon chasing a flaming pearl represents the pursuit of wisdom, prosperity, or power. Here it ...

Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]

This Amsterdam-meets-Geneva collab demonstrates why you should pay attention to Frederique Constant.The post The Frederique Constant x Ace Jewelers Highlife Worldtimer Amsterdam is a globe-trotting, category-smashing value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Schwarz-Etienne Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen for Oster Jewelers. has a design as sharp as the name is exhausting. Two variations - both steel - exist in the form of eight 39mm examples and eight in 42mm.

The fairest of them all, styled four ways.

I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...

I won’t hide the reality: finding a genuinely elegant watch at a fair price isn’t the easiest of tasks. Dress watches, while often free of any complications, are not the most represented timepieces within the portfolios of accessible brands. Naturally,  there are some candidates to consider, but finding an affordable dive watch is far easier. In […]