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Hodinkee

Hodinkee

New York, USA  ·  Est. 2008  ·  Collector culture, references, exclusives, luxury
Hodinkee is arguably the most influential watch publication of the digital era. Founded in New York, it transformed watch journalism by bringing a sleek, magazine-quality aesthetic to the web. Known for exclusive interviews, rare reference guides, and setting the agenda for collector culture, Hodinkee helped bring watch enthusiasm to a new generation of readers.
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7,173 articles  ·  Page 1 of 240
Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree Hodinkee
Breguet s Breguet 2 days ago

Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree

It's a big world out there, Baller, full of seductive objects to pursue beyond watches. In the course of finding stuff to fill out BAL each week, I come across delights galore, and it feels essential to pass along that, should you have an excess of time and money and a dearth of memorabilia, there's a full auction of items from Paul Reubens (aka Pee Wee Herman), titled, appropriately enough, Paul Reubens' Big Auction, and yes, there's a bike. Scorekeeping last weeks picks, the Orvis Solunagraph auctions next Thursday and the LIP Mach 2000 later today. The Patek 5107 sold for €13,500, and the Omega DeVille Emerald sold for $650. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Your affordable vintage diver of the week is from that least-loved of brands, Invicta. Yes, Invicta is a punchline now, but their vintage stuff can offer surprises. Here's Alan Bean's personal BA 145.022-69, for all you space cadets, and here's a trio of early electronic Wittnauers that will be 'fun' for someone, depending on how capacious their definition of fun is, given that the watches are listed as not currently running. This gold chronograph from Juvenia felt, on first seeing it, like the most charming watch I'd find this week, but then there's this incredible Zenith purse watch, which takes the cake charm-wise. For all you Pogue heads (the watch/astronaut, not the band), neither of these are 'true' pogues, in that they're both 6139-6002s, but both look great, and Seiko 6139s are great fun. Finally, I covered...

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Introducing: Ressence Type 10 DN "Dark Knight" Hodinkee
Ressence Type 10 DN Dark 2 days ago

Introducing: Ressence Type 10 DN "Dark Knight"

What We Know Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, Belgian brand Ressence introduced the first watch in its collection with an in-house-designed RW-01 movement, the Type 11. That should theoretically mean a farewell (at least for most things going forward) to the base ETA movements that have powered all Ressence models to date, each paired with the brand's unique orbital Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. Today's release of the Type 10, timed right alongside WatchTime New York, features the first oil-filled watch from Ressence to feature a proprietary movement. At a high level, the Type 10 might initially feel like a mix of several previous Ressence designs, but the final product somehow feels quite fresh. Much of it is due to the case and bezel. The silhouette of the 41.5mm case in grade 5 titanium gives this Type 10 a cushion-like shape, and it is paired with a flush-integrated rubber strap. It's a new feel for a Ressence. The entire case is coated for a glossy, dark blue hue, and that coloring extends all the way to the strap, buckle, and, of course, the dial. Ressence says this is a DLC coating, but to my knowledge, it's not possible to achieve a colored coating with the specific process—I believe this coating to be something different. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's a ceramic coating of some sort. There is ever-so-slightly a squared-off aspect to the design, with the bezel at twelve and six o'clock flattening out on its edge for a look that comp...

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Introducing: Analog:Shift x Édition de la Tour 'Vintage Watches' Playing Cards (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Cartier s 2 days ago

Introducing: Analog:Shift x Édition de la Tour 'Vintage Watches' Playing Cards (Live Pics)

When my dad was teaching me to play poker, he imparted one very clear piece of advice: Never play poker at a casino (if you've ever seen Rounders, you'll understand why). To this day, I love playing poker, and other games like slap, hearts, gin rummy, and euchre have also found a warm place in my heart, to the point that good-quality playing cards have become a necessity in my life. And there are plenty of great cards out there, but one thing many will find, once they start exploring the world of playing cards, is that novelty cards are almost universally terrible. Today, I'm happy to introduce a set that isn't, because James Lamdin and our friends over at Analog:Shift have teamed up with Éditions de la Tour to produce a new set of playing cards, and they are absolutely worth a look. Éditions de la Tour first came to my attention last year when they introduced their first deck of cards, a thematic deck with designs inspired by iconic steel sports watches like the Submariner or Royal Oak. Now, we have their follow-up, a deck whose designs draw inspiration from vintage watches of all sorts. But where last year's release focused on four special designs repeated on the face cards, this year's features 52 wholly unique designs, with each card showing an illustration of a different watch. The watches featured follow no set theme and include everything from Doxas and Tudors to Cartiers and Pateks, with the 52-watch collection having been curated by Analog:Shift founder James La...

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Introducing: The Redesigned Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Hodinkee
Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 What 3 days ago

Introducing: The Redesigned Oris ProPilot Calibre 111

What We Know Oris is going through its catalog and doing some subtle and meaningful updates to the ProPilot lineup. On the heels of a ProPilot Date update last year, the higher-tier ProPilot Calibre 111 is getting similar tweaks that take a very solid watch and make it a bit more refined. In fact, if you compare it to the old, outgoing 44mm version, the refreshed look really does stand out despite the relative subtlety. The new stainless steel case is slimmed down and sharpened up, down from 44mm to 43mm and down from around 14mm (actually 13.85mm) to 13.2mm; there are improvements in sizing, which is impressive for a watch with a 10-day power reserve. The date window has been moved to the 6 o'clock position for better balance, and the new finishing for the black or pine green dial combines a main vertically brushed surface with a textured, pebbled graining in the subdials and minute track. The Calibre 111 movement is visible through the display caseback, while the watch maintains a 100m water resistance all the same. You can see that massive barrel required for the 240-hour power reserve and what looks to be a nice level of finishing for the price point. The angled fluting on the bezel carries over to the caseback ring as well, which adds a balanced touch. And while you can still get the watch on a choice of leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, the 'LIFT' clasp and seamless fit strap adjustment system make either choice a solid one. Since this is more of a powerhous...

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Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel Hodinkee
3 days ago

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel

What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...

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Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet 3 days ago

Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot

François-Henri Bennahmias, the high-profile executive who served as the CEO of Audemars Piguet for more than a decade and grew annual sales beyond $2 billion, is being tapped as a consultant to Hublot in a surprise move by the LVMH-owned watch brand. Bennahmias was recently brought on to advise and consult for the brand, according to people familiar with the matter. Julien Tornare, the long-time LVMH executive who has served as Hublot's CEO since 2024, remains in the role, according to people who asked not to be named because Bennahmias' appointment hasn't been publicly disclosed.  The Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Bennahmias's move to consult for Hublot, founded in 1980 by Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco and known for its innovative, irreverent approach to watchmaking, including rubber straps on precious-metal timepieces, is an unexpected shift. The former professional golfer, who led Audemars Piguet until 2024, launched The Honourable Merchants Group in 2025 and promised to bring watch brands to the new luxury conglomerate that also included an electric bicycle company. While Bennahmias held discussions to acquire stakes in existing watch brands, none have been completed. THMG, as the luxury constellation is known, said in July that it would create a brand called 'N3W5' that will launch at Dubai Watch Week in 2027.  François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Switzerland launching The Honourable Merchants Group.  LVMH, meanwhile, has been making c...

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Introducing: Monta 10th Anniversary Neuchâtel X Collection in Opalin Silver Hodinkee
Monta 3 days ago

Introducing: Monta 10th Anniversary Neuchâtel X Collection in Opalin Silver

What We Know It's hard to pinpoint the moment when microbrand watches went from just good to genuinely competitive, but without a doubt, Monta was one of the brands that showed that the transition was more than just happening; it had happened. Thinking back now, it seems obvious, but 2016 was a very different world in microbrand watches. When I got into watches around 2010, microbrands were a bit of a Wild West, with brands popping up and disappearing often just as quickly. Put another way, they were daunting. A lot of the early micro-brands were born out of forums and felt like a mismatch of parts sourced from wherever they could be had. By 2016 (or 2018, when James offered up a primer on microbrands), that was increasingly not the case. In 2026, the microbrand movement has come even further, and Monta is no small part of that history. Now, the brand — based in St. Louis, but whose watches are "conceived" and made in Neuchâtel — is celebrating its tenth anniversary with a pair of limited editions, the Monta Skyquest Neuchâtel X and the Monta Triumph Neuchâtel X. At their core, each of these limited-edition watches is a relatively straightforward re-dial of the standard collection Skyquest and Triumph, but each is filled with detail meant to elicit memories of the mid-century sports watches which served as clear inspiration for these models. The most obvious change here is the shift, in each case, to an Opalin silver dial with painted indices and numerals, and "vint...

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Introducing: Noah x Timex Boatswain (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Timex Boatswain Live Pics What 3 days ago

Introducing: Noah x Timex Boatswain (Live Pics)

What We Know Timex and Noah have announced the latest in their ongoing series of collaborations, the Noah x Timex Boatswain. Here, the two have taken their Ellipse-style case and swapped out the dial. This makes for the third release from the two brands to make use of this case style, after the Oval Moon — with an oversized moonphase — and the Lighthouse watch — whose standout design detail was a sketch-like image of a lighthouse across the dial. In this case, both those details have been dropped in favor of a reined in nautical theme, which is most evident when looking at the inner track ring on the dial, which is patterned on a ship's rope. Beyond that detail, the Boatswain is, as a watch (dare I say it), rather conventional, with painted Roman Numeral indices, a slightly creamy ivory dial, and your choice of a gold tone or stainless steel case. The watches are double signed, with the Timex logo at twelve, and the Noah script wordmark at six. Hands and dial printing are, in all cases here, black. The case itself retains the same dimensions as previous releases, measuring 31mm x 35mm. The watches are water resistant to 30 meters, and come fitted on textured leather straps; brown with a stainless steel pin buckle on the stainless steel case, and black with a gold tone pin buckle. The straps are fixed to the case by a centrally mounted pin and collar bar, so strap changes are possible, if a little fiddly. As one would expect these watches are quartz. The Noah x Timex ...

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Introducing: The Brew Metric Chrono Taxi Hodinkee
Seiko VK68 mecaquartz chronograph movement 3 days ago

Introducing: The Brew Metric Chrono Taxi

What We Know It's New York Watch Week, which means lots of new releases hitting your feed. But if you're like me, the most exciting ones to find out about this week are often the special editions from the brands at Windup Watch Fair. Last year, I picked up a New York Edition Metric Chrono from Jonathan Ferrer at the Brew table at Windup—which featured dials inspired by the distinctive patterned flooring of New York subways. It was an extremely weird and fun edition, so naturally I've been looking forward to seeing what Ferrer has in store for this year. Turns out, Brew is taking inspiration from another iconic mode of New York City transportation for this year's special edition launching at Windup Watch Fair—the yellow cab. With the very evidently named Metric Chrono Taxi, the familiar mecaquartz chronograph from the brand gets a black, white, and yellow livery for a dial that reflects the motifs of the cars you love and hate in the city (depending on whether you're a rider or a pedestrian, of course). The Metric Chrono framework remains the same here, with a steel square(ish) cushion case design coming in at 36mm and a thickness of 10.75mm. Given the case shape, the lug-to-lug measures a bit longer, though still very compact at 41.5mm. It comes on a steel bracelet with quick-release spring bars and offers a water resistance of 50 meters. Inside is the Seiko VK68 mecaquartz chronograph movement, sitting behind a checkered solid caseback. The dial is where things get in...

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Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo Hodinkee
Hublot Takes Us Back 4 days ago

Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Today, a luxury sports watch with a rubber strap is nothing revolutionary, but in 1980 it was scandalous. Italian watchmaker and entrepreneur Carlo Crocco fired the starting gun on a casual-luxury sports watch revolution when he combined a gold case with a rubber strap to build his ultimate Mediterranean summer watch: the MDM 'La Hublot.' Turns out his idea caught on and was quickly embraced by royalty in Monaco, Spain and Sweden, to name just a few. An archival shot of Carlo Crocco posing with early MDM Hublot models. Rarely-seen 'pre-Biver' Hublots, including chronographs and a dive watch. The original MDM 'La Hublot' and the new Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo. It's hard to imagine that Hublot is almost 50 years old. We as collectors tend to think of it as a young brand - and in many senses, it still is - but a half-century ain't nothing to sniff at. 46 years after its inaugural release, Hublot is going all the way back to its Carlo Crocco roots with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, a standard-production watch that pays tribute to where the maverick brand started, made with the input of Mr Crocco himself (who officially exited Hublot in 2008). This release encompasses two models in 38mm, one in yellow gold and one in white gold, both housing a Zenith-sourced movement. In a departure from the standard Classic Fusion, the Tributo returns to the original MDM Hublot's 12-screw bezel design ...

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Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Hodinkee
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum What 4 days ago

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum

What We Know If you know Urwerk, you know that they've always been looking toward the stars, making instantly recognizable watches with the brand's iconic satellite display that rotates around the dial, with the hour pointing to the minute track as the whole display turns and snaps to reveal each passing hour. They've played with a variety of approaches to this concept, widening the minute track and speeding up the snap as well, but today's release of the UR-300 "Time Quantum" introduces a new mechanic that the brand says is inspired by things at the atomic level. Not to be confused with Urwerk's other atomic-inspired watch (one of my top 10 favorite all-time modern watches, the AMC special), this watch draws from the concept of polarized entities—neutrons and electrons—swirling around. Instead of the rotating single carousel in the past, the new display features a "T-frame" structure. The current hour displays as usual; the flat portion of a triangular hour module is made of beryllium copper, brass, anodized aluminum, ARCAP AP1D, and titanium, and points to the current minute as it travels on a 108º arc. The other hours are rotated 120º on their axis to hide them for legibility. Once it approaches the 60th minute (and transitions to 0), three things happen. Power built up during the rotation forces the T-Frame into rotation in a split second. The frame jumps forward and rotates 72º to put the next hour display into position, also rotating the hour module to be visi...

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Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain What We 4 days ago

Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain

What We Know There's a new miniature watch in town, and it's the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain. Inspired by a 1955 Duoplan model nicknamed the "Chain" for its "braided" gold-link bracelet, the new high-jewelry watch reinterprets that design with a sculptural 18K pink-gold bangle. It features diagonal bands that alternate between black HyCeram (a high-gloss ceramic material) and rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, offering a contemporary take on the original's sinuous chain motif. The bangle is cast in a mold made specifically for each watch, with 36 cavities filled by hand with liquid HyCeram. A master gem-setter then drills and sets the alternating diagonal bands with brilliant-cut diamonds. The finished bangle frames a diminutive watch with a black lacquered dial, which has a "JL" monogram above the hour and minute hands, all surrounded by a diamond bezel—bringing its overall diamond weight to an approximate 2.73 carats. But despite all the jewelry surrounding it, the real star is the Calibre 101, the world's smallest manually wound mechanical movement. The story dates back to the Duoplan, which was invented and patented in 1925, before JLC introduced the Calibre 101 in 1929 using the same two-level architecture (hence the name "Duoplan"). At just 14mm long, 4.8mm wide, and 3.4mm thick, the movement weighs barely a gram, and remarkably, its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged nearly a century later. Today, each movement takes around 40 hours to assemble by hand, maki...

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Photo Report: The 2026 Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
Ming weeks 4 days ago

Photo Report: The 2026 Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne

Every year in early October, the car world descends on Newport, Rhode Island, for a weekend of revelry at the Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance. We've covered the event in years past: Malaika had a dispatch in 2023, James strolling the lawn in 2024, and last year, TanTan took a ride with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid. This year, it was my turn, and I was thrilled—it was my first time at Audrain and my first time in Newport, and over four days, set against the town's dramatic, historic backdrop, I was immersed in the smell of gasoline and the sound of pre-war cars shifting from first to second, trying not to stall. The weekend kicked off on Thursday at the Faxon Lodge, and set the tone for the rest of the week.  Now in its fourth year as a sponsor of the Concours, A. Lange & Söhne, the partnership feels like a natural one. While the cars got top billing, I kept glancing at wrists. Plenty of Langes were on display, naturally, including Jay Leno's Datograph Perpetual Calendar and Tony de Haas's limited-edition Triple Split. There was even a surprise appearance from former President Joe Biden, whose Goodwood Green 1967 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray Corvette was on display (sadly, I couldn't get a wrist shot). Scroll through for photos from the weekend, and stay tuned in the coming weeks for an itinerary to help you plan your own trip to Audrain next year, something I highly recommend. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase. Maserati Khamsin. A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilh...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: The Organizers Behind The Escapement In Las Vegas And Why They Think It's Time For A New Kind Of Watch Show Hodinkee
4 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: The Organizers Behind The Escapement In Las Vegas And Why They Think It's Time For A New Kind Of Watch Show

Is there room for another watch show? Is there demand? Is Las Vegas the ideal place to bring thousands of watch collectors together for a weekend of horological-themed fun, discussion, and entertainment?  The folks behind The Escapement are saying an emphatic yes to all of the above. They're putting on a new watch event in Las Vegas in 2027 running February 5-7, and they believe collectors and enthusiasts are primed for a fresh, in-depth, and upgraded take on the watch meetup.  Texas-based Neeshu Hajra is an enthusiastic watch collector who has decades of experience in the events business. Now located in the Middle East, Faheem Khan spent most of his career in the energy industry in London and now writes and curates the popular watch-, philosophy-, and psychology-driven Substack blog ScrewDownCrown. He's also the irreverent voice behind @kingflum on Instagram. Together, they're planning and organizing The Escapement with help from a few other big names in the industry that we dive into during the episode. Image courtesy The Escapement We discuss what makes meetups work and why they had to pull plans to hold the inaugural edition of the event in Abu Dhabi and move to a more conventional location in Vegas, where they hope to attract some 5,000 general admission ticket buyers and 750 VIP ticket clients.  There's been some skepticism from industry naysayers as to the need and potential of the event. WatchPro's editor said the original gathering planned for Abu Dhabi gave...

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Introducing: Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte And Blanc Chantilly Hodinkee
Hermes 4 days ago

Introducing: Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte And Blanc Chantilly

What We Know Hermès has released two new versions of its H08 sports watch. It feels like the H08 has lived a lot of lives in the five years since it was originally released at Watches & Wonders 2021, and these latest releases bring yet another new look to a line that has expanded pretty steadily since then. Here, we have two new versions of the H08, each in a braided glass fiber composite case, but where previous watches that have used this material have coated it in a dark blend of aluminum and slate, with these new watches, Hermès has dropped the slate dust. The result is a lighter, brighter finish, complemented by ceramic accents in either bright blue or white. The blue watch also comes equipped with a rhodium-plated, "crystal sandblasted" textured dial, with blue details matching the ceramic bezel, while the white watch has a lacquered white dial. Each has details in Hermès' signature orange. Beyond the new finish and color, these are largely the H08 as we have come to know it, with a cushion-shaped 39mm x 39mm case, rubber strap, and Hermès' hallmark rounded numerals, and are powered by the automatic Hermès Manufacture movement H1837, a movement created exclusively for Hermès by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Prices for each of these new versions of the H08 sit at $8,600. What We Think This is a pretty straightforward case of a new colorway, but a new colorway done extremely well. The H08 has existed in a funny position for Hermès since its release half a decade...

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Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey' Hodinkee
Massena Lab 57.09 Secret Honey What 5 days ago

Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey'

What We Know It's been five years since Ming and Massena Lab released their first collaboration. In that time, both Ming — the Malaysian-born microbrand founded by Ming Thein — and Massena Lab — the concept studio and curatorial brand created by collector William Massena — have grown and evolved somewhat dramatically, with Ming having moved through several generations of iteration, and Massena having worked with a somewhat staggering number of brands. Now, with each brand having grown up quite a bit, they've come back together to announce the Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 Secret Honey. The new watch, built on Ming's latest design platform, is a time-only watch that evokes similar ideas to the two brands' first collaborative effort half a decade ago, but updates them, bringing to the new watch many of the tricks Ming has developed over the last few years. Put another way, this is still a honeycomb-dialed Ming, just with a little more cheek. Here, Ming has blended the honeycomb concept with their multi-layered "secret" dial to create something dynamic and fun, with a lot of the charm of midcentury favorites in an undeniably contemporary package. Like so many Mings, the dial here is multi-layered, with a dark brown lacquered base dial sitting below a trio of rotating sapphire discs, each of which rotates at a different rate. These three discs are perforated with a different pattern and finished in a different color, with the bottom two layers finished respectively in orang...

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Introducing: The Ralph Lauren Western Cushion Is Back With A 38mm Case Hodinkee
Piaget 5 days ago

Introducing: The Ralph Lauren Western Cushion Is Back With A 38mm Case

What We Know The American West has long been a defining source of inspiration for Ralph Lauren. In 2018, the brand launched its Western Watch Collection to celebrate its 50th anniversary, extending Western influences to the wrist. Today, the brand is offering a fresh take on the Western Cushion model from the original collection, with the most noticeable change being its more compact, 38mm case offered in a total of three new versions.  The American Western pocket watch that launched in 2018, which featured an IWC  "Jones caliber" as the base.  The watch first launched in 2018 with a 42mm case, among five other limited-production models, including a 50mm full hunter pocket watch. For the movements, Ralph Lauren partnered with Richemont brands Piaget and IWC, marrying Swiss-made tradition with the spirit of the Wild West. The Western Cushion 38mm retains the original design's pillowy case, crafted from hand-engraved and aged sterling silver to resemble vintage Western silverwork. The watch comes in three dial versions: black lacquer, off-white lacquer, and a natural turquoise stone. The black lacquer dial is paired with contrasting off-white numerals and a black calfskin leather strap, while the off-white version takes a slightly more traditional approach with black numerals and a brown calfskin leather strap. The turquoise dial also has black numerals and comes on a brown calfskin leather strap, although its natural stone surface gives each watch a slightly different ch...

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Talking Watches: With Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne, Where Every Watch Tells A Personal Story Hodinkee
Rolex 6 days ago

Talking Watches: With Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne, Where Every Watch Tells A Personal Story

For Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne, watches connect them to the past and help them build lifelong relationships with others. For the first time in Talking Watches, Ben sits down with two guests to discuss how a passion can be learned, sharpened, and passed along. The watches they bring not only reveal the charming details that define an exceptional vintage watch, but also the friendships and experiences that give collecting its meaning. There's *a lot* of inside jokes in this episode. Most of them on the casebacks. Longtime Hodinkee readers need little introduction to Eric. Before Wind Vintage, before Christie's, and before his many appearances in Reference Points, he was one of the site's earliest and most prolific contributors. Through Bring A Loupe, auction coverage, and deeply researched stories, Eric helped introduce a wider audience to the nuances of vintage collecting.  His enthusiasm could make an obscure chronograph as compelling as a six-figure Rolex, and his scholarship gave collectors the tools to distinguish a merely old watch from an exceptional one. Since founding Wind Vintage in 2017, he has continued to approach the category with the same curiosity, exacting eye, and belief that great watches can be found at nearly every price. The Wind Vintage duo. Charlie entered the watch business through a different route. Before entering the trade, Charlie was a collector of watch books and a researcher; in 2021, while working in digital marketing, he used several weeks...

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Introducing: The Original MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Gets The EVO Treatment Hodinkee
MB&F; 6 days ago

Introducing: The Original MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Gets The EVO Treatment

What We Know We are six years into the reign of the Legacy Machine EVO, a sportier version of MB&F;'s most "traditional" (and I use that term loosely) watch designs, which had the added benefit of higher water resistance, a built-in FlexRing shock protection system, slightly less delicate dials, and a different case design that lends itself to the rubber straps. We've had the Perpetual EVO, Sequential EVO, Sequential Flyback EVO, Split Escapement EVO, and LM101 EVO. Now, the original Legacy Machine, the LM No. 1, joins the collection with two case materials: titanium and a limited-edition rose gold. It seems like case sizes are the most hotly debated topic these days, and MB&F; has never shied away from a large case. It's needed to accomplish the dramatic design and depth of the floating balance that hovers over the dual time display (now in sunburst-polished black, flat subdials). The cases are 42mm by 16.8mm, with a 52mm lug-to-lug and 18mm lug width. This brings one major update to the EVO series: these watches now have quick-change rubber straps, made possible by a case redesign (so this won't apply to swapping into other EVO series models). Another update: the original's vertically moving power reserve indicator is now more traditional, rotating side to side and pointing at an inclined scale. One of my favorite things about the Legacy Machine is that it's so wild in the front and more traditional in the back. The movement is still the Jean-François Mogard-designed cali...

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Introducing: Garmin Marq 3 (Live Photos) Hodinkee
6 days ago

Introducing: Garmin Marq 3 (Live Photos)

What We Know When Garmin launched the Marq collection in 2019, it answered what Garmin customers had been asking for: a premium product with top-end engineering. With today's launch of the third generation, Garmin is pushing that idea further. The collection debuts six new watches—the Marq Adventurer, Athlete, Aviator, Commander, Diver, and Golfer—offering something for everyone. The Marq 3 Diver. Before we get into the six variations, we need to start with the 47mm case, because much of what's new comes from how it's built. Garmin uses a process it calls nano molding technology, which bonds a glass-filled polymer to the titanium at the nanoscale. The polymer sections at the top and bottom of the case give the antennas a non-metal window for transmission, and because the bond needs no gasket, it produces a thinner case. Garmin says that is what made room for the LTE and satellite radios on top of GPS, Bluetooth, and Wi-Fi. On the left, the Marq 3 Adventurer, on the right is the Marq 3 Golf. It also removes the five button holes in the Gen 2 case. A polymer wall seals the case, and an inductive sensor behind it registers each press, with a tactile element on the outside for the click. Garmin's point is that the crown and pushers are the usual failure point on a dive watch, and here nothing passes through the case. The process also forced a change to the Commander's DLC coating, which is normally applied at a heat that would deform the polymer, so Garmin moved to a lower...

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Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin 6 days ago

Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère

Earlier this year, we covered the announcement of a novel idea from the minds at Vacheron Constantin and the Phillips auction house: an open call looking for the best vintage Vacheron Constantin watches in the world for display, appreciation, and eventually the potential to be crowned the best in its category. It was a Concours D'Élégance like any held for cars, except this time for Vacheron timepieces. The underlying raison d'être was not just to show the best of vintage Vacheron but also to show support and appreciation to the collectors who have carried the passion for the brand (and maybe to draw some watches out of hiding). A platinum ref. 6448 from 1962 with JMV RA 13-ligne ultra-thin hand-wound movement (left) and a ref. 30030 from 2006. The jury (all fourteen members) reviewed 550 entries from vintage collectors worldwide. Now we know the 34 finalists in the seven categories (chronographs, Métiers d'Art, Chronomètre Royal, astronomical complications, multiple complications, design, and chiming mechanisms),  and there are some truly phenomenal pieces, including some that I did not know existed. And for those in Geneva during the lead-up to GPHG and the fall auction season, you can see the watches on display from November 4th to 8th before the winners in each category—plus a potential "Best in Show"—are announced at a ceremony on November 10th. The legendary retrograde full date and 'Don Pancho' minute repeater from 1940, with a replacement dial faithful to...

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Bangkok Watch Week 2026 Hodinkee
6 days ago

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Bangkok Watch Week 2026

Last month, I spent an incredible week in Thailand for Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week. Over a week of talks, panel discussions, and brand presentations (some moderated by yours truly) organized by the team at Siam Piwat, there was no better way to discover a whole new side of watch collecting. Spending more time in Southeast Asia has always been at the top of my list, because I think the region brings together some of the most diverse and interesting tastes in watch collecting. Most special of all is finally meeting so many watch nerds that I've connected and chatted with online for years, along with making many new friends. It's these moments that remind you how small this little world is, and how it's the people and not necessarily the watches that make this space so interesting. Image courtesy Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week. Bangkok Watch Week wrapped up its weeklong watch fest with one big hurrah—a sort of after-party. This "Asia-Pacific Get Together" was what I had been looking forward to the whole time—just a big ol' gathering of watch collectors from all over Asia, descending upon an open bar and having a fun time. But while I spent a lot of time chatting with so many folks, I was still on the clock, after all, and got to do some fun watch spotting with my camera during the whole thing. So I hope you enjoy seeing so many fun—and sometimes insane—watches. Happy scrolling through the sea of wristshots. And for those who I got to meet and connect with at Bang...

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Introducing: Toledano & Chan B/1 Dazzle Is A Perfect Interpretation Of One Of The Weirdest Camouflage Patterns Ever Hodinkee
Bulgari tried Oct 12, 2026

Introducing: Toledano & Chan B/1 Dazzle Is A Perfect Interpretation Of One Of The Weirdest Camouflage Patterns Ever

What We Know Have you played "hide a World War I battleship?" I mean, who hasn't? It's basically the number two teenage pastime in the United States Midwest and Great Plains, with all those giant bodies of water in places like Nebraska, South Dakota, and the like. No? Okay, well, hiding ships was a life-or-death proposition back in World War I and World War II, and for a brief period from around 1917 to 1918, the answer was not to try to hide them at all. That's where Toledano & Chan got the idea for the new b/1 "Dazzle:" obfuscate, not obliterate.  If the concept of "dazzle camo" sounds familiar, it's because Bulgari tried its own version of this disruptive pattern material (DPM, as it's known in the industry) just a few months ago. We even mentioned this watch coming from Toledano & Chan, which was revealed when it was nominated for a GPHG award. As a refresher, I'm going to paraphrase what I said before.  British zoologist John Graham Kerr proposed (to Winston Churchill in 1914) a DPM designed to change the perceived outline, size, distance, and direction of ships at sea based on the same concept that zebras use to hide their distance and numbers from predators. The idea was convincing enough that a large number of ships were painted, and while some German U-Boat captains did say that the pattern was effective, it's still unclear how true that was. Regardless, radar basically made the whole idea obsolete, and now it's largely an oddity outside the automobile road-test...

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Introducing: The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating The Founder's 100th Birthday Hodinkee
Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating Oct 10, 2026

Introducing: The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating The Founder's 100th Birthday

What We Know It seems as though Raymond Weil has been everywhere this year as the Geneva-based, family-owned independent brand celebrates its 50th anniversary. The company entered the integrated-bracelet sport watch realm in June with its A.R.T. collection, launching a lovely chronograph—The Fifty—featuring a vintage, new old stock Valjoux movement from the year the brand was born, 1976. But RW is marking another milestone this year. Today, on October 10th (also World Watch Day, btw), Raymond Weil himself would have turned 100 if he were still with us. A frequent and enthusiastic traveler, the brand is paying tribute to its founder with a limited-edition model, the Freelancer World-Traveller.  The star of the show for this run of 260 pieces is, most certainly, the dial. It's a relief-rendered world map in the style of the Mercator projection, rendered in textured champagne, against a dark blue background, representing the oceans. Rather than the brand logo, Raymond Weil's signature sits at 6 o'clock and above the date window. The indexes are applied and surrounded by a 24-hour scale in blue for the evening and beige for the daytime. The outer ring of the dial features 24 world cities and their corresponding time zones. Turning the knurled bezel rotates the city ring to allow for shifting time zones or tracking.  The local time display features tapering baton hands filled with Super-LumiNova, while the GMT hand, which can be manipulated by moving the screw-down cro...

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Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Oct 9, 2026

Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand

Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory.  Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong.  Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...

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Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic In Deep Blue Hodinkee
Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic Oct 9, 2026

Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic In Deep Blue

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Under the stewardship of CEO Davide Cerrato, we’ve seen a revitalised Bremont experiment with all sorts of things—jumping hours pieces, meteorite dials, space watches—as well as ceramic cases, especially for its Supermarine dive watch. In 2024, they launched their first full-ceramic watch, the Supermarine 500 Black Ceramic, following up with a Jungle Green ceramic limited edition built to take on the tropics. Now, the British brand has debuted a Deep Blue ceramic Supermarine 500 that’s ready for the depths. While this new colored ceramic Supermarine is a follow-up to the Jungle Green, quite a lot has changed in the Supermarine lineup since its launch, including an upgraded movement with an improved power reserve. It also now sports a wave pattern on the dial rendered in black, which provides good contrast against the white Super-LumiNova (with blue emission), and brings some added texture and depth to the dial. The blue ceramic case measures the same dimensions as the rest of the Supermarine 500 lineup at 43mm across with a thickness of 13mm. It’s rated to 500 meters and also features a helium escape valve on the left side of the case that’s finished in a color-matched blue. The bezel insert is ceramic - it's laser-engraved with embossed numerals - yet both the bezel ring and the crown are titanium, not that you'd immediately clock it. Bremont has nailed the color-matching acro...

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Bring a Loupe: An Orvis Solunagraph, An Omega DeVille Emerald, A Lip Mach 2000 Chronograph, And A Patek Philippe Calatrava Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Calatrava Welcome Oct 9, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Orvis Solunagraph, An Omega DeVille Emerald, A Lip Mach 2000 Chronograph, And A Patek Philippe Calatrava

Welcome to Friday, Baller. We're in busy times, what with the weather changing, and, at least in the States, we're enjoying an embarrassment of riches movie-wise, with a new Sorkin movie just having opened and two incredible new movies—The Only Living Pickpocket In New York and You Can See Everything premiering next Friday. I, for one, am already stocking up on popcorn. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Lucien Piccard Telephone and the Mappin and Webb watches remain available, while the Omega Admiralty and JLC Master Mariner have both sold. Strays I don't know if "understated bling" is a thing or not, but if such a category exists, it is absolutely where this Piaget Protocole in white gold from Rare Birds belongs. If Seiko's announcement of its newest panda chronograph whetted your appetite, here's an awfully great vintage Wittnauer two-register chronograph on auction from Loupe This, which, no, isn't as cute and lacks ears for pushers, but is still a great watch. Should you, after reading more down below about Abercrombie & Fitch watches, find yourself in the market for a vintage alarm watch from the brand, look no further. Photo courtesy of Rarebirds. Vintage lesser-known great-looking diver? Absolutely. Interesting vintage Rolex Prince? Why not. On the one hand, I've never seen any LeCoultre chronograph configured like this one. On the other hand: everything appears correct—signed dial and movement, appropriate wear, etc.—so who knows. Finally, for those who wan...

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Happenings: Singapore's Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns This November Hodinkee
Rexhep Rexhepi chatting Oct 9, 2026

Happenings: Singapore's Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns This November

With the massive rise in interest in independent brands over the past few years, it seems like it's basically impossible to even begin to meet with watchmakers these days, let alone have a meaningful conversation with them or see their watches. I have to field the question "How do I meet ___" at least once a week. No matter the answer, it requires some effort. But what if I told you that you could walk into a room and see Rexhep Rexhepi chatting with Max Büsser, right next to Kari Voutilainen, who is looking at Jean-Claude Biver's watch while Jean Arnault looks at Trilobe. All while Rémy Cools, Theo Auffret, Gaël Petermann, and Florian Bédat are chatting at a table nearby, their watches in hand. That's IAMWATCH in Singapore, and it's happening again from November 12 to 15 at the Singapore Edition. Kari Voutilainen and Jean-Claude Biver. I was there two years ago at the first iteration of what I will say is one of the most "me" watch fairs ever made; you can see my 2024 Photo Report here for a sense of the event. I love the people of the watchmaking as much as I love the watches—maybe even more because I can't afford most of the big-name independents, but I can enjoy talking to them and learning from them all the same. The Hour Glass, one of the world's largest retailers, is also putting it on, and it's run by long-time avowed independent watchmaking acolyte and Managing Director Michael Tay. Proof of how stacked this event is comes from the list of names I'm going to...

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Introducing: Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Live Pics Oct 9, 2026

Introducing: Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (Live Pics)

What We Know Angelus has dropped the curtain on three new limited-edition watches built on the same platform as the fan-favorite (and GPHG-winning) Chronographe Télémètre, only not quite. With this trio of novelties — appropriately dubbed the Chronographe Tachymètre — Angelus has dropped the telemeter scale, replacing it with a tachymeter, and bringing with it a slightly sportier look than we've come to expect from Angelus's most compact modern offering. The new model follows up a limited-edition take on the idea of a Chronographe Télémètre released in collaboration with Monochrome Watches earlier this year. But where that watch featured a double-tracked tachymeter and a decidedly vintage aesthetic, these new watches offer a decidedly different take on the concept, leaning into the look of midcentury racing watches. Here, that means you have the same bi-register chronograph layout, but with a single-track tachymeter and subdials finished in contrasting colors. Like the Chronographe Télémètre that preceded it, the new Chronographe Tachymètre is offered in three configurations, with two of those in steel cases and the other in yellow gold. The yellow gold offering — which is limited to 15 pieces — is fitted with a yellow-gold-tone dial with green (really, a very dark grey with a greenish hue) accents. The stainless steel watches are offered with either a salmon dial with grey accents or a grey dial with blue accents. These watches come in editions of 30 an...

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