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👑 Dress Icon · Since 1917

Cartier Tank

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier · Ref. WGTA0067 (Large)

Louis Cartier designed it in 1917 after studying the overhead plan of the Renault FT tank. More than a century later, the Tank has been worn by Andy Warhol, Jackie Kennedy, Muhammad Ali, and Princess Diana - the most iconic dress watch ever made.

Introduced1917
CaseRectangular, various sizes 22×30mm to 34×44mm
MovementCartier Cal. 1917 MC / 430 MC / quartz
Current RefWGTA0067 (Tank Louis Cartier Large)
WristBuzz Articles140
Cartier Tank - Timex’s New Affordable Dress Watch Borrows Its Best Ideas from the Cartier Tank

Photo: Two Broke Watch Snobs · Mar 28, 2026

1917Year Born
RectangularCase Size
38hPower Reserve
30mWater Resist.
140WristBuzz Articles

The Tank Story

Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, during the First World War, after studying the overhead plan of the Renault FT light tank being used on the Western Front. The rectangular case with vertical "brancards" (tracks on either side of the dial) replicates the tank's silhouette when viewed from above - the case sides are the treads, the dial the gun turret, the crown set with a sapphire cabochon. It was the first genuinely new wristwatch-case shape to depart from the round pocket-watch template that dominated early wristwatches, and it remains one of the most recognisable silhouettes in horology. Louis Cartier presented the first Tank to General John J. Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Forces, in 1918.

Cartier released the Tank to the public in 1919 and has kept it in continuous production ever since - more than 105 years, across dozens of variants. The Tank Normale (1919), Cintrée (1921, curved to the wrist), Chinoise (1921, with horizontal bars referencing Chinese temple architecture), à Guichet (1928, jump-hour digital display), Américaine (1989, elongated curved case), Française (1996, integrated bracelet), Anglaise (2012, crown integrated into the case), Must de Cartier (1977, gold-electroplated affordable line), and Louis Cartier (the purist reissue of the original 1922 proportions) together make up the family. Every new case shape became an icon in its own right.

No other watch has been worn by so many 20th-century cultural figures. Jackie Kennedy wore a gold Tank given to her by Aristotle Onassis; Andy Warhol famously said "I don't wear a Tank to tell the time. Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear"; Muhammad Ali, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Cocteau, Gary Cooper, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama, and Robert Redford all wore Tanks in public. Its cultural resonance puts it in a category with the Submariner and Speedmaster as one of the three universally recognised wristwatches of the 20th century.

The current collection centres on three references: the Tank Louis Cartier (the purist, closest to the 1922 LC design, manual-wind in gold), the Tank Must (entry-level steel or gold-plated, quartz, with coloured dial options including the instantly popular 2021 "monochrome" red, green, and blue lacquered dials), and the Tank Française (integrated bracelet, redesigned in 2023 with a new slimmer case and integrated steel bracelet). Retail ranges from ~$3,200 (Tank Must steel) to ~$30,000+ (Tank à Guichet Jump-Hour in gold). The Cintrée has been reissued in limited batches for platinum and gold collectors.

Iconic References

1917 - 1919
Original Prototype Tanks
Unique Pieces

Louis Cartier's own prototypes, one of which was gifted to General John J. Pershing in 1918. Hand-made, unique configurations, lever-set movements. These pieces reside in the Cartier private archive and museum. Effectively unobtainable.

Pershing Era
1919 - 1960s
Tank Normale / Cintrée Era
Various Historical

First public Tank ("Normale") released 1919. Tank Cintrée (1921) curves dramatically along the wrist. Tank Chinoise (1921) adds horizontal caps inspired by Chinese temple architecture. Tank à Guichet (1928) uses jump-hour windows. Defined Cartier dress watches through Art Deco and mid-century.

Art Deco Era
1977
Must de Cartier
Tank Must

Game-changing affordable line launched under Robert Hocq. Gold-electroplated silver case ("vermeil"), quartz movements, colourful lacquered dials in burgundy, navy, and green. Brought Cartier to a wider audience through the late 1970s and 80s. Re-released in 2021 with modern quartz and SolarBeat solar movements to immediate commercial success.

Vermeil
1989
Tank Américaine
Ref. W2601556

Elongated, curved case designed for the American market - hence the name. Modern sizing for larger wrists, automatic movement, integrated or strap configurations. One of the defining 1990s Cartier references and the blueprint for the more-sportily-proportioned Tanks.

Curved Case
1996
Tank Française
Ref. W51008Q3 / WGTA0113

First Tank with integrated bracelet. More everyday / sporty than the strap versions, with brushed and polished steel or gold construction. Completely redesigned in 2023 under Arnaud Carrez with a slimmer case, updated bracelet, and automatic Cal. 1853 MC. Massive commercial hit in 2024.

Integrated Bracelet
Current
Tank Louis Cartier
Ref. WGTA0067

The purist modern reference. Closest proportions to the 1922 Louis Cartier original - slim bezel, elegant lugs, Roman numerals, blued sword hands. Hand-wound in 18k yellow, white, or pink gold. The Tank any serious collector ultimately gravitates toward.

Purist Ref.

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