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Results for Balance Wheel

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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Hodinkee
Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Although Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm

Although the most current form of the Longines Hydroconquest has only been around since March of this year, it comes up in a lot of conversations. Since its release, it has found considerable relevance with the value-focused audience, managing to strike a balance that is becoming increasingly rare – strong enthusiast value from a major brand at a competitive sub-luxury price point. In a space that used to be dominated by Omega (and more recently, Tudor), Longines has stepped up with an offering that checks a lot of boxes, including the fact that this new and nicely proportioned diver rocks a price tag that feels more 2016 than 2026. Launched in 2007 as a dive-themed spin on the brand's longstanding Conquest line, the Hydroconquest has had a handful of generations that progressively refined what started as a quirky diver with oversized numerals, chiseled crown guards, and a characterful hour hand with a diamond-shaped lume plot. Until recently, with the launch of the latest generation, that was the known format of the Hydroconquest. With modern positioning, it was just unconventional enough to stand out among its peers, and the brand's alignment with Swatch allowed for reliable movements, attractive price points, and the chance of local retail availability. An example of a 2018 Hydroconquest in 41mm offered as a US market LE.  Then, earlier this year, Longines launched this latest iteration in 42mm and, yes, 39mm. The watch you see here is the 39mm example, and its steel...

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist Monochrome
Voutilainen Jul 10, 2026

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist

When Urban Jürgensen returned in 2025 under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, three watches formed the inaugural collection. The UJ-2 introduced a time-only calibre with a double-wheel natural escapement; the UJ-3, an integrated perpetual calendar; while the UJ-1 Tourbillon 250th Anniversary Watch was meant to be the technical masterpiece for the return […]

Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1 Monochrome
Chopard s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Jul 7, 2026

Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1

Following the resurrection of the name Ferdinand Berthoud by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2015, with the introduction of the Chronomètre FB1, a superb tourbillon watch with fusée-and-chain device, followed by the no less spectacular Chronomètre FB2, the brand presented another award-winning watch, a superb wrist chronometer with cylindrical balance-spring named the Chronomètre FB 3SPC – […]

Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen Hodinkee
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue Jul 7, 2026

Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen

Double tourbillons, quadruple tourbillons, movements assembled with such three-dimensional ambition that they sit like sci-fi architecture on the wrist, every time I have a Greubel Forsey in hand, I'm reminded just how much the brand operates in its own lane. Yet there has always been something faintly contradictory about the Balancier 3, the model the brand first introduced in 2023 as its most moderate, most structurally legible entry point. With three bridges, a clean balance, no tourbillon, and no theatre, the Balancier 3 on paper is reserved. And yet my first thought with this recently released version on the wrist is that even a restrained Greubel Forsey is a startling object. Balanced beautifully between spotlighting its technicality and marrying that with a new execution, this might be the brand's simplest watch on paper, but it is not, by any reasonable measure, a simple watch. The Balancier 3 has been with us for three years now, and with this latest edition, the large central bridge has been hand-frosted across its entire curved surface. The result is a deep, matte texture, the kind of pronounced surface that a machine couldn't lay down convincingly on a shape this complex, running from the edge of the movement between one and two o'clock down to the seconds between seven and eight. Around it, the balance and barrel bridges remain in a bright, polished titanium, producing an incredibly captivating contrast of reflection and depth. Then there is the blue, worked i...

Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV Fratello
IWC Mark XV I have Jul 5, 2026

Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV

I have a form when it comes to writing about the IWC Mark XV. In fact, I previously called it my GADA watch of choice, praising the 38mm pilot’s watch for its balance, restraint, and everyday usability. The trouble with many vintage or neo-vintage timepieces, however, is that finding bracelets worthy of them can become […] Visit Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV to read the full article.

American Independent 1776 Atelier Debuts the Liberty 250 SJX Watches
Hamilton closed their American factories Jul 3, 2026

American Independent 1776 Atelier Debuts the Liberty 250

Texas-based independent 1776 Atelier commemorates America’s 250th year with the Liberty 250, a rose gold skeleton watch with sharp anglage on a movement that is overwhelmingly American made, from the main plate to the free-sprung balance. Initial thoughts The American watch industry transformed from a cottage industry heavily reliant on European imports to the world’s largest watch manufacturer in just a few decades, concentrated around a handful of massive, and capital intensive, factories. This meant that when Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton closed their American factories in 1957, 1968, and 1969, respectively, the entire domestic watchmaking disappeared almost overnight. 1776 Atelier is one of a handful of independents trying to rebuild it. Founder Jason Lu is a Texan technology executive turned self-taught watchmaker who cut his teeth restoring pocket watches as a hobby. He was later mentored by Donat Kornagel of DK Precision — a prolific German movement customiser — and took anglage-guru Philippe Narbel‘s full week masterclass. Co-founder Zach Smith — WOSTEP-trained watchmaker and KERN-whisperer — also founded Hour Precision, one of the few American component suppliers. Two members of Hour Precision’s fleet of KERN CNC mills Together, their approach is antithetical to the so-called “American system” of industrial watchmaking, which failed in the US but lives on in Switzerland and Asia. Instead, they build watches in small numbers by labour-intensive ...

The Fuchs-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026 Monochrome
Glashütte Original manufacture has strongly focused May 22, 2026

The Fuchs-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026

In the past few years, Union Glashütte, the sister brand of the more high-end Glashütte Original manufacture, has strongly focused on connecting its watches with car-related events and car-inspired designs. Take, for example, the Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025, the Noramis Date Deutschland Classic 2025 with an MB wheel-inspired design, or the BBS-styled Noramis Date […]

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

First Look - Czapek Revisits its Antarctique Sector, Revelation and Tourbillon in Titanium and Cosmic Blue Monochrome
Czapek Revisits Apr 10, 2026

First Look - Czapek Revisits its Antarctique Sector, Revelation and Tourbillon in Titanium and Cosmic Blue

Czapek launched the Antarctique collection in 2020 as its first luxury sports watch built around the in-house calibre SXH5, marking a major step in the brand’s modern revival. Striking a refined balance between luxury and everyday wearability, Czapek unveils titanium interpretations of three emblematic references: Dark Sector,  Révélation and the Tourbillon. Lighter, stronger and more […]

Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Mar 3, 2026

Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan

You’ve heard of Seiko. By now, you’ve heard of Grand Seiko. But Credor, for many enthusiasts outside of Japan, remains mostly a mystery, despite its connection to both. But for those who are aware of Credor, it represents a Holy Grail of high-horological craftsmanship worthy of its venerated designation as “Japan’s Patek Philippe,” and perhaps no single timepiece represents its signature balance of technical complexity and sublime simplicity of design than the Credor Eichi II. [toc-section heading="Credor History"]  The legend of Credor began in 1974, when it was launched as a luxury offshoot of parent brand Seiko, initially to produce exclusively precious-metal watches. The name, which became official in the 1980s,  is a Japanified version of the French phrase "Crêt D'or," which translates as “pinnacle of gold.” This lofty claim is visualized in the now-iconic triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. Throughout the ‘90s, Credor watches (like Grand Seiko watches, before that sub-brand’s emergence as a separate, independent brand in 2017), were co-branded, with both the Credor and Seiko logos on their dials. Also like Grand Seiko (the first of which was made way back in 1960), Credor products were sold only exclusively in Japan. In the early 2000s, well ahead of Grand Seiko’s more famous coming-out party, Credor became a standalone brand, hosting all of the Japanese watchmaking giant’s forays into haute horlogerie as well as some very impressive hi...

Introducing - The Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m Monochrome
Grand Seiko Feb 19, 2026

Introducing - The Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m

Using the analogy of Grand Seiko and Seiko, Orient Star is the premium division of Orient watches (both part of Seiko Epson since 2017). Established in 1951, Orient Star produces more refined watches featuring complications and a characteristic Japanese balance of quality and value. Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star reimagines the design of its […]

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech SJX Watches
Seiko Epson including Feb 18, 2026

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech

Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...

Introducing - Mercedes-AMG F1 Pilot George Russell Teams Up with IWC for Two New Pilot’s Watches Monochrome
IWC Feb 5, 2026

Introducing - Mercedes-AMG F1 Pilot George Russell Teams Up with IWC for Two New Pilot’s Watches

British driver George Russell, currently racing for Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, joined IWC’s paddock of ambassadors in 2022. Exchanging the steering wheel of his F1 for the design board, Russell worked alongside IWC’s creative team to design the new limited edition Pilot’s Watches, emblazoned with the F1 pilot’s signature blue colour featured on his […]

Complicated Collectors: Cecil Clutton SJX Watches
Feb 2, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Cecil Clutton

The 1908 Itala came alive on the Silverstone grid with a sound like controlled thunder. Cecil Clutton, known to his friends as Sam, settled into the bucket seat, his hands finding their positions on the massive steering wheel. He was 63 years old; the car was a year older. Around them, sleeker machines like the Bugatti Type 35 and ERAs growled in anticipation. The other drivers wore modern racing kits; Clutton wore a tie. He dropped the clutch. The 12-litre engine roared as the rear wheels bit into the tarmac. Through Copse Corner, the car drifted wide, and Clutton held the line by feel; the steering wheel transmitted every message from the road surface through his palms. With Clutton at the wheel, the Itala crossed the line in third place; eminently respectable for a car that predated the First World War by six years. But Clutton was no ordinary racing driver, having been appointed a Commander of the Order of the British Empire for work rendered to the Crown Estate; his family founded the real estate firm Cluttons in the late 18th century. The CBE acknowledged his professional achievements in surveying, but by then his influence extended far beyond property management. He had already served as President of the Vintage Sports-Car Club from 1954 to 1957, published foundational texts on vintage motoring, established himself as a leading voice in the British Organ Reform Movement, and begun building what would become recognised as one of Britain’s finest collections of prec...

Review: The New Baume & Mercier Clifton Year Of The Fire Horse WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Clifton Year Jan 31, 2026

Review: The New Baume & Mercier Clifton Year Of The Fire Horse

We have gone hands-on with the new Year of the Fire Horse limited edition Clifton from Baume & Mercier, which turns out to be a great Chinese New Year piece and an all-around dressier watch. What We Love The grey gradient dial looks great Good size at 40mm to suit most wrists Unique date wheel aperture with galloping horses What We Don’t The leather strap is on the stiffer side The crown stem is on the looser side, with some play in it when changing the date and time Quite a bit of reflection on the crystal at certain angles Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It has become customary for watch brands to tap into the Chinese Zodiac to celebrate the Chinese New Year. For many, this time of year represents new beginnings, traditionally celebrating the end of winter and the beginning of spring (in the northern hemisphere that is), a new year in the lunar calendar and new life. I think this is something we can all appreciate, no matter what our religious or philosophical beliefs are. So each year, coming into the new calendar year, and especially leading up to the Chinese New Year around February, we see a slew of brands bringing out their interpretation of the new Zodiac sign that is to come, of which there are 12, meaning we only see this every 12 years, and in each animal sign, there are 5 elements that are associated with it. Thus, each Zodiac sign with a specific element will only come around every 60 ye...

SJX Podcast: Perfectly Impractical SJX Watches
Jan 26, 2026

SJX Podcast: Perfectly Impractical

Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It’s a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable. SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.    

Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka SJX Watches
Omega calibre inside Jan 9, 2026

Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka

The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it.  The Toka features a fairly traditional...