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Doxa's 1967 Cousteau-endorsed dive watch. First orange dial, US Navy no-decompression bezel, 300m.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Doxa thread.
Monochrome
ZRC (Zuccolo Rochet & Cie) isn’t a household name in the dive community like Rolex, Doxa, Blancpain or Omega (or even Seiko, if we cross a few time zones), but it certainly has a place in history. Responding to the French Navy’s request for deep dive watches in 1958, the brand developed the S1 diver […]
SJX Watches
To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...
Worn & Wound
Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...
Worn & Wound
Seiko has announced a new addition to their King Seiko lineup, and it’s their most radical release yet. Okay, maybe radical is a bold word choice for what is essentially a line of simple, sedate, and elegant dress watches, but this reinvention of the tonneau-cased King Seiko 45KCM offers us our first glimpse at what a King Seiko lineup may look like beyond the shadow of the King Seiko KSK. If you’ve been paying any attention to King Seiko since the marque was relaunched in 2020, then a lot of the details here will come as no surprise. In many ways, this latest launch follows the same recipe as other recent King Seiko releases, and in particular shares a lot in common with last year’s SJE089/SJE091 King Seiko KSK update. As I mentioned up top, the new King Seiko KS1969’s big differentiator comes in the form of an elegant tonneau case. I’m a big fan of this case shape, which often offers a tremendous ratio of wrist presence for wearability (just ask anyone who’s ever worn a Doxa Sub300). The new King Seiko is presented in somewhat of a Goldilocks size, with a diameter of 39.4mm, a thickness of 9.9mm (though I’m unclear on if this includes the box sapphire crystal), and a lug-to-lug of 43.6mm. Seiko also claims that the watch has a low center of gravity which, paired with the curved case, will keep the watch close to the wrist. All of this should make the KS1969 incredibly comfortable for a wide range of wrists. The vintage-inspired multi-link brick bracelet has...
Worn & Wound
Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog. Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...
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SJX Watches
Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...
Time+Tide
James Bond has his Omega Seamaster, Dirk Pitt has his Doxa, Six has his TAG Heuer Carrera, and now Rachel Stone has a Hublot Big Bang E Black Magic. Recently released on Netflix on August 11, Wonder Woman and Fast & Furious actor Gal Gadot and husband Jason Varsano have teamed up to produce the … ContinuedThe post Gal Gadot arms herself with a Hublot Big Bang E Black Magic in Netflix’s Heart of Stone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Petite Aiguille is a fun Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève category with a diverse set of contestants offered at a retail price equal to or under 3,500 Swiss francs. These include rising stars anOrdain, Furlan Marri, and independent specialist Massena Lab. Oris is also present here with the chic Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy, and Doxa represents the affordable diver corner with a SUB 200 model. Last but not least, there is Ciga Design’s interesting Blue Planet.
Time+Tide
In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
If you’ve ever dropped into the Time+Tide HQ in Melbourne to pick up a copy of NOW Magazine or try on a DOXA, chances are that you were greeted by the effervescently charming Khando. She has been a member of the team since the second half of last year, and previously worked in the fashion … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Khando’s Seiko SRPC91K is something borrowed and something blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s been another big week of Covid-19 era life here at Time+Tide, with Zoom calls with the Girard-Perregaux HQ (up to 90 people joined in at its peak) to join in on, a live chat with Wei Koh of Revolution and the CEO of DOXA watches to discuss our involvement in the Covid-19 Solidarity Auction … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Revolution and The Rake are kicking Covid’s arse, the Seiko modding craze and *eggplant emoji * appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Whether it’s the Breguet pocket watch that belongs to the dastardly Baron Danglars in The Count of Monte Cristo or the orange-dialled Doxa worn by Dirk Pitt in Clive Cussler’s novels, the literary world is full of watches. Sometimes they’re mentioned as passing details to flesh out a character’s appearance. Sometimes a character’s wristwear comes … ContinuedThe post From Hemingway’s Rolex to Murakami’s vintage Heuer – the 7 best watch quotes from literature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This weekend, I wore my DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Kosta’s Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Kosta’s passion for timepieces is still very much in its infancy … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: I’ll be honest, there is a part of me that really likes this watch. There is something about a gold-tone full-metal G-Shock that appeals to the same part of my brain that is excited by a solid gold Doxa; it’s a part tickled by totally unnecessary extravagance that is just so fun. Luckily, … ContinuedThe post Eureka! Joining the Casio gold rush appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There were some notable absences at Baselworld 2019. A new Milgauss from Rolex, a new Monaco from TAG Heuer; in fact, the only birthday that happened on schedule, apart from the barnstorming return of Doxa in time for its 130th, was the glorious profusion of Zenith El Primero models. But no missing model was quite … ContinuedThe post ‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rado celebrated 40 years of the Integral, alongside its relationship with ceramics, at the Time+Tide Discovery Studio in New York CityThe post Rado takes over the New York Time+Tide Discovery Studio, celebrating 40 years of the Integral and its relationship with ceramics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Celebrating 25 years of this revolutionary watch, we get a true upgrade that takes it even further into the realms of high horology.The post The Ulysse Nardin Super Freak takes the Freak idea to its wildest extreme yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Norqain takes its 42mm flyback chronograph to the wild side, introducing a trio of new skeletonised Wild One ChronographsThe post Norqain takes its 42mm flyback chronograph for a walk on the wild side, with the new Wild One Skeleton Chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tissot announces a new Visodate, taking the recipe of the 1950s original, and adding some modern refinements.The post Tissot’s updated Visodate takes vintage vibes to the next level (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Baltic's latest take on its Scalegraph, produced to commemorate the French Transat Café L’Or yacht race, is designed as a skipper’s tool.The post Baltic’s Scalegraph takes to the high seas with the Transat Café L’Or Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Furlan Mari x CLÉ Sahra Edition is the second model in the brand's Editions line, following our Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy.The post Furlan Marri takes the Mechaquartz to the dunes of Saudi Arabia, in collaboration with CLÉ: The Gallery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Nothing is as disputed as an award ceremony. The outcome of an opinion will always face another opinion, and people will have opinions on the ceremony itself. You know what they say about people and opinions, so I won’t elaborate on that. What I will elaborate on are some of the winners of the GPHG […] Visit GPHG 2025: The Aftermath - LVMH Is A Big Winner, But Breguet Takes Home The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix to read the full article.
Time+Tide
This flyback chronograph dive watch's panda dial was inspired by the optical effect that cinema screens used to use for maxmium legibility.The post Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
This year marks the 80th anniversary of the Datejust, which, according to my colleague Gerard, is “the mother of all modern wristwatches.” And I don’t disagree. When Rolex introduced this watch in 1945, it set a new direction for the company, and many other brands followed (much later). A wristwatch for everyday use, with a […] Visit Here’s Why The Rolex Datejust 16234 Ticks All The Boxes to read the full article.
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