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Monochrome
Dressed in all black, the Type 3 BB2 is the perfect representation of what independent watchmaker Ressence is all about. Founded in 2010 by industrial designer Benoit Mintiens, watches by Ressence are pretty much incomparable to anything else on the market thanks to the brand’s out-of-the-box thinking, technical innovation and no hands or crowns. In […]
Worn & Wound
Ah, the moon. Romantic, mysterious, and the subject of many Creative Writing 101 poems, our closest celestial body has also wormed its way onto many a watch face over the years. Moonphase watches evoke a sense of sophistication and elegance, and tend to decorate watchmakers’ dressier lines, despite their somewhat subversive practicality. Farer’s moonphase collection is no exception; first launched in 2023, it took one of watchmaking’s oldest complications and applied it to the British brand’s own design ethos. Here in 2025, we have two new references to pad out that lineup: The Stratton and Burbidge Eastern Arabic Editions. Taking the same basic design of the rest of the line, the new Moonphase models are wrapped in a 38.5mm cushion case with curved sides that wear a “grain twist” texture. The case scallops in the 43.8mm between the lugs to make the strap sit flush, and a rounded crown with a solid bronze cap finishes the vintage-adjacent case look. Inside, both Moonphase models are powered by a Sellita SW288-1 M Elabore Grade movement, with blued screws and a Farer-embossed bridge. The Sellita movement allows for a 45-hour power reserve, and hour, minute, seconds, date, and of course, moonphase functions. Where the models differ is in their case material and dial design. The Stratton Edition-named for Frederick Stratton, a WWI veteran, mathematician, and astronomer who would eventually serve as Director of the Solar Physics Observatory, among many other ...
Worn & Wound
It’s well understood that anniversaries in the watch world are fertile ground for new projects. We see it on what amounts to a weekly basis at this point, brands celebrating milestones for collections, movements, and of course the founding of the brand itself. Collaborations are also at the heart of pushing new products to watch enthusiasts, which again needs no further explanation at this point. So in that sense, the new limited edition release from Unimatic in partnership with the Armoury should be the least surprising thing ever. It’s a watch that represents the continuation of a collaborative relationship and a celebration of a pair of anniversaries. The Armoury, the menswear retailer founded by Mark Cho, turns 15 this year, the same year that Unimatic turns ten. It’s a good opportunity to reflect on the impact both the Armoury and Unimatic have had in the watch space in that time. Unimatic has developed into one of the leading design focused, approachable, independent brands. Like Ming, Fears, and a small handful of other brands that have hit their stride in roughly the same time period, they have an unmistakable aesthetic that is recognizable from across a room, as well as a committed contingent of fans that hang on every new release. And while the Armoury did not begin as an outpost for watches, it’s become an important part of the community thanks to Mark Cho’s genuine dedication to watches. He’s a true collector and admirer of great watches (at all p...
Monochrome
Our visit earlier this year to India’s prime watchmaking company, Titan, was a genuine eye-opening experience. Besides witnessing the impressive scale of production (it is immense, and a whole different level than Swiss watchmaking), we also discovered that the industry giant had some unexpected horological capacities. Titan, to celebrate its 40th anniversary, unveiled India’s first […]
Fratello
When Jaeger-LeCoultre applies the Hybris Artistica and Grande Tradition labels, expectations rise. These watches are complicated, sure, but they are also theatrical displays of mechanical skill and decorative artistry. Today, the brand introduces two new creations under these banners, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 and the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Each interprets the […] Visit Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models to read the full article.
Video
For many collectors, buying a watch is about far more than the watch itself. The experience of discovering, trying on, and ultimately purchasing a watch can shape how we feel about it long after it leaves the boutique...
SJX Watches
On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Fratello
Would you rock a stone-dial watch? I would. And I also could. Previously, only a handful of brands ventured into stone dials, and those that did reserved them for highly expensive pieces. Today, however, technological advancements have made stone dials far more accessible to produce. This benefits watchmakers and watch fans: smaller brands can now […] Visit Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Few watch brands are as readily identified with aviation and the history of pilot’s watches than IWC, which not only gave the watch world two of the genre’s most iconic (and widely emulated) timepieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch and the Mark 11, but also has used both these groundbreaking models as foundations for a sprawling and diverse collection of contemporary aviation-inspired watches today. Here is the story of IWC Pilot’s Watches, from the Special Watch for Pilots to the Spitfire to the Top Gun, from simple three-hand to perpetual calendar, and everything in between. F.A. Jones’ International Dream (1860s - 1930s) IWC founder Florentine Ariosto Jones Other than the fact that he came to Switzerland in 1868, at the relatively tender age of 27, to become the first American-born founder of a Swiss watch company, little is known about the life of IWC patriarch Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was born in New Hampshire in 1841 and fought in the American Civil War for the Massachusetts Infantry. His postwar career at the renowned Massachusetts watchmaker E. Howard & Co. led to his European sojourn and the establishment of the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From the outset, Jones’ business plan was to marry the generational watchmaking expertise of the Swiss with the then-new, assembly-line production techniques of the U.S.A. His decision to locate his factory in Schaffhausen, near Switzerland’s northern border with Germany, rather tha...
Worn & Wound
James Ward Packard (1863–1928) was a prominent American industrialist, inventor, and watch collector. Best known as the founder of the Packard Motor Car Company, which manufactured some of the most luxurious automobiles of the early 20th century, Packard was also an avid horology enthusiast and one of the most influential watch collectors of his era. His rivalry with Henry Graves Jr. over acquiring the most complicated and exquisite timepieces played a pivotal role in advancing the art of watchmaking. James Ward Packard was an engineer both in and out of the classroom. He wired the door and alarm clock of his dormitory room with switching mechanisms and rigged telegraph lines to friends’ rooms. Five years after graduating, he applied for the first of over forty patents. Upon graduation he and his brother started manufacturing incandescent carbon arc lamps. In 1890, Packard opened the Packard Electric Company with his brother in their hometown of Warren, Ohio. Packard and his first business partner, George Lewis Weiss, initially purchased a Winton automobile in 1898. After experiencing multiple issues with it, Packard personally suggested improvements to Alexander Winton. When Winton dismissed him, Packard decided to build a better car himself, leading to the creation of the first Packard automobile. Their company, the Packard Electric Company, made automotive electric systems. It was purchased by General Motors in 1932. The Packard Automobile Company was purchased by S...
Time+Tide
The Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 9 becomes by far the most expensive watch by the young brand, but also the most complicated.The post Ōtsuka Lōtec bursts through the affordable barrier with the epic, tourbillon-equipped and chiming No. 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding is the brand’s first manual-wind moon phase, and also the first in years with a solid dial, making it a refreshing change of pace from the brand’s usual fare that leans towards open-worked and occasionally over-designed styling. Initial Thoughts Excepting the vintage inspired Diver 1964, the M45 F8 moon phase is the most attractive watch in the Orient catalog to my eye. Most of the brand’s designs are too busy for my tastes, so these entries are a welcome departure that will certainly appeal to enthusiasts with more classical tastes. The moon phase disk itself, with mother-of-pearl inlay, is a highlight. And the absence of a seconds hand is a pleasant surprise, though the moon phase sub-dial feels naked without the traditional co-axial small seconds hand. Since the small seconds version of this calibre is not compatible with the moon phase module, Orient could have moved the Orient Star logo onto the sub-dial for more visual balance. Most importantly, this is a manually wound watch – with a competent movement – in a price segment where such things are hard to find. Looking at Japanese watches in particular, manual wind options from Grand Seiko and Credor are significantly more expensive, while Seiko, Orient, and Citizen dropped their entry-level manual watches years ago. Pleiades About two years ago, Orient Star reorganised its catalog by launching M Collections, a family of watches each named after astron...
Fratello
Last week, I had the pleasure of visiting the Toronto Timepiece Show. I was also a jury member for the Timepiece World Awards, so I had some formalities to attend to. But more about that later; let’s talk about the show first. Toronto Timepiece Show Over 75 watch brands exhibited at the Toronto Timepiece Show, […] Visit Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Tissot is one of our favorite brands here at Fratello. The company’s blend of history and industry-leading value also makes it a popular pick among buyers. Often, at the heart of this value proposition is an impressive movement. The Powermatic 80 has been in production since 2012, but it still offers impressive specs. Watches such […] Visit Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Québec City carries its history on every corner-stone walls, cobblestones, cafés spilling into narrow streets. For a few days in September, it also carried the buzz of race bikes and the weight of a UCI WorldTour peloton. Tudor brought us here to see their Pro Cycling team take on the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec. The race is unusual compared to most on the calendar. Instead of rolling through countryside, the riders loop through Old Québec, climbing and descending the same punishing circuit until it breaks them. Crowds lean over barricades, the sound of cheers bouncing off limestone walls as the peloton flashes past again and again. Our trip began with a chance to meet the Tudor Pro Cycling riders. They rolled in straight from training, relaxed but sharp, already thinking about the course. Later, in the subterranean car park beneath Hotel 71, we were shown the workshop: rows of bikes worth thousands apiece, mechanics tuning, polishing, preparing. A hidden paddock carved out of concrete, the quiet backbone of the sport. Dinner that evening was with Tudor and a handful of other journalists at Laurie Raphaël. It was polished dining, but the conversation stayed grounded-how a team operates at this level, what it means to link a watch brand with a sport that demands grit and repetition. FXD watches at the table looked at home: tough, precise, made for use. Race day carried a nervous hum. The morning was cool, the sun cutting through by midday. From Tudor’s hospital...
Fratello
Fortis is well known in the world of horology for creating amazing tool watches. It is also one of the few brands with a track record of successfully sending watches into space. The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 collection is a modern-day space traveler’s watch that has achieved just that. Now, the Swiss brand is extending the […] Visit Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition to read the full article.
Video
Some watches are just made for diving, others are made to take on anything you throw at them, and this new Certina DS Super PH2000M is set to handle the harshest conditions imaginable.
Monochrome
Ressence is renowned for its dynamic, no-hand display of the time. Animated by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun. Ressence’s Type 9, its most compact, spartan, and accessibly priced watch, was introduced in 2024. Not only was it the smallest model in the brand’s […]
Revolution
Worn & Wound
I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind. Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability. With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal. Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe, but with Labor Day just over the horizon, the first days of tolerable weather breaking into the mix, and the whole world picking up pace, there’s no denying that we’re fast approaching the end of summer. For many, the end of summer also marks the end of dive watch season, but we at Worn & Wound aren’t quite ready to pack up one of our favorite styles of watch for the year, and neither is one of our favorite brands, H. Moser & Cie. In fact, they’re doubling down with the release of what just may be the best collab dive watch of 2025, in partnership with anime-inspired digital art collective, Azuki. Their latest collection - which Moser and Azuki have dubbed the “Elements of Time” - draws from Azuki’s Elementals NFT Collection, with four new dial designs inspired by the elements of Azuki’s Element Universe: Fire, Earth, Water, and Lightning. Playing host to these elemental dials - each of which boasts a unique blend of guillochage and fumé finishing - is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel, a dive watch–esque sports watch that has long been one of Moser’s great under-the-radar offerings. Though not technically a dive watch by the strictest ISO definitions, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel certainly plays all the dive watch hits, and plays them well. First introduced as a stainless steel 42mm watch in 2019, the Centre Seconds RB has been subject to several reinterpretations over the years, including in collab...
Fratello
The Essence is one of Formex’s most innovative and all-around watches. It’s also the most popular one because of the specs it features for the price, and its comfortable wearing experience. Today, the brand introduces the Essence Space Ghost in stainless steel and a new 41mm size. But this is not just another Essence that’s […] Visit Introducing The Formex Essence 41mm Space Ghost - A New Medium Size With A Meteorite Dial And Even More Technical Ingenuity to read the full article.
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Here are 7 current Rolex models that are all under retail price.
Monochrome
Watches are built to tell time, but also to impress, and to connect. The Jui is a collaboration between Watch Ho & Co., a Hong Kong-based watch community and club founded by Jackie Ho, and indie brand Selten, and it belongs firmly in the latter category. Created to mark Watch Ho & Co.’s second anniversary, […]
Monochrome
On August 1st – also known as Switzerland’s National Day – the Trump Administration announced a 39% tariff on Swiss imports, coinciding with Secretary of State Marco Rubio publicly praising Switzerland… A political and economic shockwave has gripped the country for nearly two weeks. Rightfully so, Switzerland is heavily export-oriented, and the U.S. is one […]
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen made its comeback earlier this year with an impressive line-up that includes the flagship UJ-1 Tourbillon. Much of the credit for the brand’s watches and watchmaking goes to Kari Voutilainen. Mr Voutilainen has imbued Urban Jürgensen’s watches with the high standards of quality synonymous with his own brand, resulting in watches that are equally exquisitely craft and steeply priced, but arguably worth it. Though best known for his eponymous brand, Mr Voutilainen is also co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen (and also a minority shareholder). His fellow steward of the Danish marque that is now headquartered in Bienne, Switzerland, is Alex Rosenfield. While Mr Voutilainen is in charge of watchmaking, Mr Rosenfield leads marketing and branding. From left: Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield, and Alex Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen Given the opportunity to speak at length with Mr Voutilainen, I could not refuse. We discussed the true nature of artisanal work, ranging from movement decoration to guilloche, the details of Urban Jürgensen’s movements, and more. You can find his insightful answers below. But interestingly, my conversation with Mr Voutilainen reminded me of the first time I met him, which was at Baselworld 2006 when he launched the Masterpiece Chronograph (with a special hairspring from what turned out to be a questionable supplier). Even two decades ago, well before he was famous, Mr Voutilainen was passionate about the same thing...
Fratello
I bought my first Omega Speedmaster Professional in 1999. This is also when my Speedy collecting officially began. During those 25 years of buying (and selling) Speedmaster watches, I made my fair share of mistakes. This was mainly because, back then, there wasn’t as much information available as there is today. But I also made […] Visit Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them) to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Anoma made its debut last summer and has just released its third model, the A1 Optical. Without departing too far from what made the previous models attractive and affordable, the latest variant features a CNC guilloché dial with a shimmering optical effect. For the design of the dial, Anoma founder Matteo Violet-Vianello was inspired by the works of Bridget Riley and Ferruccio Gard, instrumental figures in the optical art movement. There are two dial options for the Optical; copper and silver. The copper option is the livelier of the two and will inevitably be called a salmon dial. Alternatively, the silver-treated option gives the watch a distinctly black-and-white feel. Interestingly, the first 150 pieces in each dial finish will be delivered with a related artwork commissioned from optical artist Adam Fuhrer. After the first 300 pieces have been delivered, regular production (sans artwork) will commence. Initial thoughts It’s rare to find watchmaking at this price point that is distinctive enough to sell without a name on the dial, but Anoma is betting the A1’s pebble-like triangular case is a recognisable enough calling card to dispense with the branding. It was the right call, because the Optical is all about its dial and the shimmering optical illusion created by programmatic guilloché. In some ways the dial motif is similar in concept to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando, but the triangular pattern and three-dimensional texture will result in a more engag...
Video
What does your grail watch REALLY say about you? Today we're roasting 20 of the most iconic grail watches in the world — from the Rolex Submariner and Daytona to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, AP Royal Oak, Richard Mi...
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