Hodinkee
Gatherings: A Special Evening With IWC Schaffhausen
Celebrating the grand opening of the brand's first ever boutique in the Washington D.C. area.
Results for Grand Feu Enamel
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Highlights: Magnificent Chinese Market Timepieces at Phillips Hong Kong
The Geneva sales have wrapped up, but the spring auction season continues in Hong Kong, where Phillips will offer a collection of unexpected and wonderful pocket watches made for the Chinese market in the 18th and 19th centuries. As Europeans became enamored with Chinese goods such as tea, silk, and porcelain, the Chinese were equally enraptured by European watches and clocks, often adorned with miniature enamel painting, pearls, gemstones, and hand engraving. Genevan enamelling, in particular, was world-leading and adorned some of the most elaborate timepieces of the 19th century. Proof of that can be found in the Patek Philippe Museum’s extensive collection of Chinese market watches and clocks. Today, Chinese market watches seem alien in their lavish and ornate decoration. Collectors’ tastes have become homogenized over time, particularly today, which makes historical Chinese market watches stand out as a world unto themselves, both in style and mechanics. A mini collection of such watches will be sold during the first session of Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX at 6:30 pm on May 23, 2025. The extraordinary miniature enamelling found on a clockwatch by L. Vrard & Co. Lot 801 – Perfume Sprinkler Pistol by Moulinié & Bautte & Cie Geneva historically specialized in the manufacture of oddly shaped “fantasy watches” watches during the early 19th century. Common forms include fruits, musical instruments, animals, and flowers. Some of the more exotic fanta...
SJX Watches
Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva
It’s hard to stand out among the 194-lots in Phillips’ incredibly stacked upcoming Geneva auction. The catalog for The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI includes 36 watches from Patek Philippe, including familiar favorites like two ref. 5004s and an assortment of Nautilus and Aquanaut models. But three watches are especially notable. These highlights are led by the only known ref. 3448 “Padellone” perpetual calendar in pink gold – a retailer-signed example at that – followed by a landmark “grand” complication with Hagmann case, and a Beyer-signed pocket watch with a portal to Amsterdam on the back. The auction takes place on May 10 and 11, 2025, at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. Lot 74: Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in pink gold signed “Freccero” Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar, the ref. 3448, was primarily made in yellow or white gold – except for this example in pink gold. Besides the unique case material, this also has a retailer-signed dial. In addition, it’s in incredible condition, with unpolished lugs so sharp you could almost cut yourself. It features an early “second series” dial, with a “dimple” style minute track and engraved, enamelled markings. Even though the movement inside the ref. 3448 is one of the most beautiful automatics ever made, the cal. 27-460 doesn’t skate by on pretty privilege. The calibre is technically competent: with a free-sprung gyro-max balance, overcoil hairspring, and Patek Philippe’...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...
Time+Tide
Cartier completely transforms Melbourne boutique after nearly a year of restoration
Cartier reopens its boutique in Melbourne in lavish style, and George Russell dons a custom IWC Ingenieur ahead of the Miami Grand Prix.The post Cartier completely transforms Melbourne boutique after nearly a year of restoration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet releases the new Classique Souscription 2025 wrist watch - a one hand watch with only the minute hand over a pure white enamel dial.
SJX Watches
Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - A Celebratory Model For The Maison's 250th Anniversary (Live Pics)
Single-handed and enamel-dialed, the Souscription 2025 pays respectful homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet's most accessible masterpiece.
Monochrome
First Look - The Gorgeous Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R
The watch we’re looking at today isn’t exactly new, not in the strictest sense. But the way Patek Philippe sets itself apart from its predecessors – the 5370P in platinum, first released in 2015 with a black dial and later in 2020 with a blue enamel one – is worth noting. This latest version introduces […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary. Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well. The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stam...
Teddy Baldassarre
Past Events
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Monochrome
First Look - Vacheron Constantin Unveils the New Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its grand 270th anniversary this year. For a brand with such an illustrious and storied past, an anniversary of this calibre means rolling out the big guns. To commemorate the date, Vacheron Constantin unveils a new high-end manufacture calibre combining a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Limited to 127 pieces and presented […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual (Live Pictures, Thoughts, And Comparisons)
Ben's thoughts on where this grand complication sits relative to its cross-border rival and reigning champ in the category, the Patek Philippe 5374G.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models
Vacheron Constantin’s anniversary celebrations do not go unnoticed. The 270-year-old horology house kicked things off in January with the stainless steel version of the Historiques 222. Yesterday, it unveiled a high-end follow-up to that release with the stunning new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Add the Traditionnelle Tourbillon […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
Deploying its full arsenal for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Saxon powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a potent horological cocktail combining a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. A rare and ambitious mix, the imposing platinum Minute Repeater Perpetual with a black enamel dial is powered by a newly developed […]
Deployant
New: A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
A. Lange & Söhne presents the new Minute Repeater Perpetual in platinum with a black enamel dial, limited to 50 pieces only.
Fratello
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001
The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G-001 is a stunning-looking timepiece but with a price tag well beyond what most of us could spare. Let’s take a look. Today’s Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G-001 is entering Patek Philippe’s regular catalog. Originally, the Quadruple Complication debuted as a limited-edition platinum watch during 2023’s “Watch Art” Tokyo Grand […] Visit Introducing: The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years with Most-Complicated-Wristwatch-Ever
This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development. Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.) Initial thoughts Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory. The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece. Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot b...
![[VIDEO] Deep in the Heart of Texas: Recapping the First Ever Windup Watch Fair Dallas](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GENERAL_37.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Deep in the Heart of Texas: Recapping the First Ever Windup Watch Fair Dallas
Everything’s bigger in Texas, and that now includes the Windup Watch Fair! On March 15-16, 2025, Windup made its grand Lone Star State debut at the historic Hickory Street Annex in Dallas. Kicking off its 10th-anniversary celebrations, the fair brought together over 40 watch brands, passionate collectors, and curious newcomers-because let’s be honest, who doesn’t love hanging with a bunch of watch lovers? The Hickory Street Annex, originally built in 1921 as a Gulf Oil distribution center, set the perfect scene with its warm-industrial vibes. The airy, two-level venue gave guests plenty of room to dive into the world of horology-chatting with brand reps, trying on watches, and maybe even convincing themselves that they definitely need just one more piece for their collection. The lineup? Absolutely stacked. Christopher Ward dazzled with their Anglo-Swiss masterpieces, including the ever-impressive Bel Canto and The Twelve. Oris, while proudly sporting Miss Piggy pink, also celebrated 60 years of dive watch excellence with a special anniversary edition, while Zodiac launched some striking new designs in the form of the Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton Night Diver. One of the weekend’s standout moments was the special screening of a brand-new documentary, America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova, which chronicles the brand’s history of innovation and firsts. The film explored the brand’s deep roots in American watchmaking, highlighting its role in everyth...
Monochrome
Introducing - Frosted Silver and Copper Dials for the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase
Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is populated with classical watches that evoke the grand Saxon watchmaking traditions of the 19th century. A slight evolution of the somewhat august Senator range, a sub-collection known as the Senator Excellence, was released in tandem with the brand’s calibre 36 in 2016. The Panorama Date Moon Phase appeared in 2018, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Presage x Studio Ghibli Watch Review
It’s a little crazy to actually type this out but I never actually owned a Seiko watch until this year. Obviously I have reviewed, written about, photographed, and indeed appreciated dozens and dozens of Seikos throughout the decade I have been in this industry but there was never one that truly spoke to me as a collector. Well, that was until I saw news of the Presage SPB437, a beautiful limited edition done with a blue enamel dial as a tribute to Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, one of my favorite movies of all time and the Hayao Miyazaki film that led to the creation of Studio Ghibli, the legendary Japanese animation studio. 2024 marked the 40th anniversary of Nausicaä which seems like the perfect opportunity to release a limited edition for the most hardcore fans. This is not the first Seiko watch done for Studio Ghibli as there was a pair of Presage watches released in 2020 for the also-great Porco Rosso. The first of these was the SNR047J1, a 500-piece limited edition done with a Spring Drive movement and a white enamel dial inspired by the cockpit of the Crimson Pig’s plane with subtle touches like red seconds hand, red R, and the The Tricolour Italian flag colors. The second of these was the SRQ033, a black enamel dial Spring Drive chronograph with similar color touches and a Tricolour seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock that was limited to 600 pieces. These were magnificent pieces made for Ghibli-heads like myself though they were significantly pricer at ar...
Fratello
Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch
In 2018, Krayon, the brand founded by independent watchmaker Rémi Maillat, won the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) with its Everywhere watch. Four years later, Krayon bagged another GPHG award. That time, the complicated Anywhere won first prize in the Calendar and Astronomy category. With the new Krayon Anyday, a […] Visit Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale
When John and Chrissy Warren relaunched the Cornell Watch Co. in 2023, it was something of an experiment. They wanted to revive luxury watch making in America … at scale. Now, with their launch year behind them, the Warrens have proven there is an appetite for high-end American watches, having sold and delivered their first 15 build slots for the beautifully crafted 1870 Classic Enamel. Now the Warrens are moving on to the next phase of their company: moving from producing small numbers of artisanal watches to producing hundreds of watches a year that compete in quality with Swiss brands. Part of the appeal of Cornell’s first watches in the relaunch, the 1870 Classic Enamel, was that the watch was put together by America’s leading watchmaker, Roland Murphy. Murphy’s reputation as an artisan who produces work of the highest quality made him an ideal partner for an American brand. His name leant credibility to the project and his years of experience running RGM Watch Co. meant the watches would be beautiful examples of craftsmanship. But relying on RGM Watches to assemble Cornell’s watches had a downside: the high-level hand-finishing they utilize means RGM doesn’t produce huge quantities of watches. And, of course, Cornell isn’t even the center of RGM’s business, meaning the 15 Cornell 1870 CEs produced by RGM in 2024 - 16 if you include a piece unique that was auctioned off - represent roughly what could be expected from the partnership year-over-year: ...
Deployant
New: Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue
A new interpretation of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue, with a new enamel dial. Details and commentary within.
SJX Watches
Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138
Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...
Deployant
Leica new flagship boutique opens at South Beach Center
Leica opens a new flagship store in Singapore on February 18, 2025. Here is a report grand opening as well as pictures of the Leica Store.
Worn & Wound
Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials
Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...
Quill & Pad
A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre
To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore
Audemars Piguet has just opened the doors of the first AP House in Singapore, situated in the Bar and Billiard Room of the historic Raffles Hotel. Opened in 1887, the Raffles is one of the grand hotels of Asia, having reopened in 2019 with only suites. Part of the hotel since the 19th century, the Bar and Billiard Room was until recently a restaurant, but its 1,000 m2, or almost 11,000 ft², is now home to an AP boutique, lounge, restaurant, and cafe all rolled into one. The latest AP House brings the total number of “houses” around the world to over 20, with other locations including Hong Kong, London, Los Angeles, Milan, New York, Shanghai, and Tokyo. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s home in Le Brassus and its surrounding natural beauty, the space also incorporates the distinctive flair of Singapore, including large panels made from trunks of the rain tree, a familiar sight around Singapore. Notably, AP House Singapore is home to the first-ever AP Café, which serves a menu that is Swiss but “reimagined through a Singaporean lens”, including Chicken Rice Club Sandwich and Gula Melaka Pain Suisse. “Designed to feel like a refined home, [AP House Singapore is] a haven where watch enthusiasts, newcomers, travellers, and anyone seeking a distinctive experience can gather, says Stefanie Ng, chief executive of Audemars Piguet South-East Asia, “Our doors are always open.” The AP Cafe Panels of rain tree wood decorate the walls AP House Singapore is also a sh...
Hodinkee
Dispatch: Behind The Closed Doors Of A Major Grey Market Show
IWJG's Miami show is the grand bazaar of the wholesale watch world.