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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Glashütte Original Debuts Senator Panorama Date And Senator Panorama Date Moonphase Watches Revolution
Glashütte Original Debuts Senator Panorama Date Mar 26, 2013

Glashütte Original Debuts Senator Panorama Date And Senator Panorama Date Moonphase Watches

Dear all, I’m very pleased to show two new editions of the Senator. Glashütte Original continues to engage with the art of design, presenting quintessential expressions of the manufactory: the Senator Panorama Date and Senator Panorama Date Moon Phase. The in-house design team of Glashütte Original made a number of changes to achieve a stunning new look that is both […]

Tag Heuer Carrera CMC Concept Chronograph Revolution
TAG Heuer Carrera CMC Concept Chronograph Feb 21, 2013

Tag Heuer Carrera CMC Concept Chronograph

The distinctive asymmetrical “bullhead” case design is back! But in a futuristic new interpretation using a high tech carbon composite pioneered in Formula One. The Carrera CMC Concept Chronograph is TAG Heuer’s latest achievement in avant-garde timekeeping. Powered by TAG Heuer’s own in-house chronograph movement, the iconic motor-sports inspired Carrera takes the Carrera Mikrogirder and encases the […]

Exclusive pictures of a Stainless Steel cased Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite Deployant
Apr 24, 2012

Exclusive pictures of a Stainless Steel cased Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite

Exclusive pictures of the Stainless Steel Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Merite” In the early days of the manufacture, the leadership of the company, principally Mr Gunter Blumlein made some difficult decisions to make special edition watches for special customers…he subsequently stopped this practice, as it creates considerable headaches for the company to dedicate resources toRead More

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding And FiftySix Complete Calendar Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding 40m ago

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding And FiftySix Complete Calendar

What We Know It's a dial refresh, but it's a welcome one for the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix, which gets a bit of new life with a new grey two-tone dial for the stainless steel case. For the self-winding version, this is now another option for the most affordable watch Vacheron makes, which previously had a blue dial and a monochrome grey. But alongside that new self-winding, there's now a new complete calendar model to complement it. Both watches have a 40mm steel case, with 9.6mm thickness for the self-winding version and 11.6mm for the complete calendar. On the former, there's a gradient opaline center, a gradient darker grey sunburst exterior, and a snailed peripheral minute track. On the complete calendar, this display is reversed, plus a darker, nearly black, external date track for the pointer date. The moon phase has gone monochrome as well. Both watches have applied white gold numerals and indices, which (like the hands) are filled with Super-LumiNova. The watches have display casebacks and a 30m water resistance. The Fiftysix Self-Winding uses the caliber 1326, produced by Richemont's Manufacture Horlogère Valfleurier and finished, assembled, and regulated by Vacheron Constantin. That movement has 48 hours of power reserve. The complete calendar movement, with automatic winding as well, is the 2460 QCL/1. It's actually a higher-grade movement, so it has a Geneva Seal mark for quality, but it only has 40 hours of power reserve. Both run at 4Hz. The pricing stays...

Hands On: Orient Star Skeleton 75th Anniversary SJX Watches
Ming diamond-milled chamfers 8h ago

Hands On: Orient Star Skeleton 75th Anniversary

The ambitious new Orient Star Skeleton 75th Anniversary Flagship Model RE-BR0001N represents two major milestones for the brand — 75 years as a manufacture and 35 years of making skeletonised watches. A limited edition of 130 pieces, the Orient Star Skeleton introduces the new F9 movement family, which combines the best of the brand’s finishing and technology, including a prominent blue silicon escape wheel and gleaming diamond-milled chamfers, in a zaratsu-polished stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Orient Star cites no fewer than three inspirations for the design of the open-worked dial plate: Zen garden ripples, the use of negative space (“ma”/間 in Japanese) and the orbits of planets — the latter fitting into Orient Star’s overall astral theme. Regardless, the overlapping circular design is appealing and creates ample surface area for decoration. The Orient Star Skeleton is an inherently movement-forward watch, with its cal. F9B82 displayed proudly beneath its chamfered dial plate. But there’s more to the Skeleton than its open-worked dial. In particular, the gleaming case is as sharp and shiny as you’d expect of a Japanese luxury watch, addressing a relative weakness of past models and helping justify entry into a new price segment. While the interlocking ring motif brings order to the dial, the balance wheel is arguably overemphasised, breaking the symmetry. This pattern interruption feels abrupt in part because it reveals the less attractive und...

Awake Presents More Stunning Dial Colors and New Compact Cases in Its Son Mai Silver Leaf Collection Worn & Wound
18h ago

Awake Presents More Stunning Dial Colors and New Compact Cases in Its Son Mai Silver Leaf Collection

My first exposure to Awake came in 2024 at Geneva Watch Days. It was one of those moments when I had the privilege of simultaneously meeting the founder, Lilian Thibault, and discovering the watches all at once – getting to learn about the designs directly from the person who developed them. This was around the time the brand was really catching its stride after being more experimental with its collections through its first few years of business. This was when Awake really began tapping into what has now become its signature design language, which is largely centered around artistic craft techniques – if you’ve been reading my stories for a while now, you know this immediately pulled at my heartstrings. The technique Awake has chosen to focus on comes from Thibault’s travels to Vietnam, and it’s called Son Mai. As a refresher, this lacquer method is one of the oldest traditional arts in Vietnam, dating back several millennia. Here, Vietnamese artisans often integrate other materials into the lacquer to add texture and relief. Awake has been perpetuating these ancient traditions, using the dial as a canvas. The Son Mai – Silver Leaf collection made its debut at Geneva Watch Days back in 2024, and now, we see its next evolution. For Awake’s latest launch, each dial is handcrafted using a combination of the traditional Vietnamese Son Mai lacquer along with silver leaf gilding to give that added interest that incorporating other materials provides. Here, you have...

Hands On: Ming 51.01 Halo SJX Watches
Ming 51.01 Halo 19h ago

Hands On: Ming 51.01 Halo

The Ming 51.01 Halo takes the brand’s experimental approach to materials in a dressier direction, pairing a pink gold-coated crystallised titanium case with a slim, hand-wound La Joux-Perret calibre. Compact proportions and a restrained black-and-gold palette bring the unusual case texture into focus, while 5N lacquer-filled indices, still etched into the underside of the crystal, replace Ming’s customary lume without sacrificing its recognisable identity. Initial thoughts As a collector, I tend to be wary of gold plating and coatings from a durability standpoint, but in the case of the Halo that personal preference confronts my affection for crystallised titanium, which I wrote about last year. This treatment process subjects grade 5 titanium to intense heat in a vacuum chamber, reaching 1,200°C. That heating and the controlled cooling that follows have the effect of ‘crystallising’ the metal. Finally, acid etching brings out the texture, much as it reveals Widmanstätten patterns in wafers of meteorite. Rather than creating crystals, the treatment enlarges and exposes naturally occurring crystals already present in the metal. The result is a marbled matte finish that looks more like forged carbon than a metal alloy. Appealingly, Ming’s distinctive tuck buckle is rendered in the same material, right down to the 5N coating. Ultimately, the brightness of the gold PVD coating enhances the look of the crystallised titanium case and, to my eye, makes the pattern mor...