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Monochrome
Parisian brand Bell & Ross has long worked with open dials, showing more of the movement instead of covering it up. With the BR-X3 line, that approach also sits well within the brand’s circle-within-a-square design language introduced in 2005. After last year’s BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, this new BR-X3 Micro-Rotor keeps the same idea, but this […]
Deployant
TGIF! After our adventures in champagne on January and February, we now bring you the March episode. In March, we drank even more. Here are the highlights.
SJX Watches
Exhibiting at Watches & Wonders in Geneva for the first time, Seiko’s high-end marque Credor is rolling out the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved (ref. GBCF997). While the latest Credor is only a cosmetic variation of an existing model, but the latest Goldfeather Tourbillon is nonetheless a top-of-the-line model in both technical and decorative terms: the ultra-slim movement features a tourbillon, while the dial and movement are hand engraved. The hand-engraved cal. 6850 Initial thoughts Though this year’s Goldfeather Tourbillon is identical to last year’s edition save for decor, it looks strikingly different, underlining the different decorative techniques employed. While last year’s model was ornate and figurative, the latest version is clean and almost monochromatic. The lack of colour belies the complexity of the dial decoration. The entire dial is engraved, right down to the radial graining. Instead of conventional brushing, the radial pattern is achieved with a manual engraving technique. The stylistic different continues onto the movement, which is equally finely decorated, and also impressively slim. While the strength of the artisanal execution and ultra-thin watchmaking are obvious, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is fundamentally a facelift to a movement that’s been around for a long time. To go as far as its sister brand Grand Seiko, Credor would have to do something more novel. Fine lines The Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved is self descriptive: it i...
Monochrome
Introduced last year, the Pulse line is a departure from the classical regulator watches for which Chronoswiss became known in the 1980s. The collection keeps the key design elements such as the oversized onion crown, the coin-edge bezel, and the layered dial construction, but offers a contemporary case and an integrated bracelet. Just ahead of Watches […]
Worn & Wound
From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. During Henry VIII’s reign (1509–1547), portable watches as we know them today had yet to emerge in significant numbers. Timekeeping was dominated by grand and stationary mechanisms, with tower clocks or ornate table pieces, serving both practical and symbolic purposes as a show of wealth and status. Watches, if present at all, were nascent and extremely rare. The first clocks and watches were expensive luxuries and only in the reach of royalty and landed gentry. There was, however, a sufficient demand for these items in the Tudor royal court which spread to a prosperous London. The beginnings of the horological industry were probably first initiated by King Henry VIII. During this period there was somewhat of a technical revolution, starting with the invention of the printing press which changed the way people received information. This filtered through to the court where there was a revoluti...
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Hodinkee
After 266 years in business, the store will close at the end of 2026, with Patek Philippe taking over in 2027 to create a brand showroom, according to the Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung.
Fratello
Our times aren’t ideally characterized by the term “gentlemanliness.” It seems most of us are more concerned with fighting for what we think the world owes us than with standing for dignified, gentlemanly conduct. This week, I am proposing a return of the gentleman in us all. I secretly, subliminally started last week with the […] Visit Reawakening The Gentleman In Us: The New Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.
Monochrome
Singer Reimagined, founded in 2017, is a Geneva-based watchmaking brand born from the collaboration between Rob Dickinson, founder of Singer Vehicle Design, known for bespoke Porsche 911 restomods, and Italian watch designer Marco Borraccino. The duo bonded over a shared passion for 1960s-70s sport chronographs and engineering excellence, leading to Singer’s motto: “Reimagined, Restored, Reborn”. […]
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward’s releases basically fall into two categories for me. There are the watches that the brand clearly intends to have broad appeal across a wide segment of the watch market. This is really most of their watches. Think of the Sealander and Trident collections, and indeed most of the Twelves, and you have watches that are very well made and attractive but not exactly groundbreaking. Then there’s the Loco, the Bel Canto, and some of their more experimental pieces that play with aventurine and sapphire dial elements. These watches veer into the avant-garde and serve as showcases for what Christopher Ward is capable of at a higher (but still very fair) price point. I’ll admit, I’m partial to the latter, and less interested in the former. The Loco and Bel Canto in particular really demonstrate Christopher Ward’s ambition to be more than just a former maker of homage watches. These watches fully escape the brand’s roots. Their latest release, the C63 True GMT, sits somewhere in the middle. Built on the Sealander platform, the new True GMT is exactly what it says on the tin: a sporty multi-time zone watch with an independently jumping local hour hand. A “true” travel GMT, offering significantly more use while on the move between time zones than a “caller GMT,” still the standard for this type of watch under about $5,000. What makes this watch special is that it represents nearly as much movement innovation and development as the brand’s more...
Monochrome
Wristwatch manufacturers focus on keeping cases air and watertight so the movements can operate trouble-free in daily use. This started in earnest in 1926 with Rolex’s robust Oyster case, but even delicate dress watches today have a degree of water and dust resistance for splashes, rain and so on. However, a small handful of brands […]
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is starting the year with an ambitious new calibre inside the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, the in-house GP9530. Also equipped with a tourbillon, the symmetrical, skeleton movement is a micro-rotor automatic, making for an exciting pairing of complications. Notably, even during GP’s heyday as a manufacture, it depended on specialists for its repeater movements. The GP9530 is the brand’s first in-house minuter repeating calibre (though it does borrow from an earlier striking movement created with the help of a complications specialist). The strikework is exposed on the dial, while the reverse reveals the winding mechanism under circular bridges. Initial thoughts In the past couple of years GP has been slowly making a comeback, after a few slow years, as a serious and motivated manufacture. The comeback started with the release of the reworked constant-force escapement and accelerated with last year’s unveiling of the workhorse GP4800 and the GP9620 skeleton tourbillon. This is in some ways a return to form. Historically GP was a powerhouse in this respect, making complicated movements under its own name as well as supplying movements, both complex and simple, to other high-end brands. At that time, however, GP still did source repeater movements from the likes of Christophe Claret. In time, the evolution of the industry reduced the need for such outsourced movements, and the marquee’s lustre dulled. The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges and its ...
Monochrome
There’s an endless amount of mechanical wristwatches on the market today from a seemingly endless amount of brands (large and small), but almost all watches fall into a specific style (assuming it’s not from MB&F; or Urwerk). However, many take on multiple roles and blur those lines – an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a […]
Monochrome
If you’ve ever travelled to Shanghai or Thailand, you might be familiar with the ease of acquiring a convincing fake Rolex for pennies on the dollar. Asian counterfeiters (particularly in Guangdong Province, China) often have access to the original machines used for cases, bracelets, and so on (not for Rolex specifically), as some Swiss brands […]
Worn & Wound
A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping. The ‘Space Traveller’ was conceived as a timepiece to honour the astronauts that George Daniels admired. He was determined that his watch would be one that could be theoretically used by an astronaut, therefore he set out to make a watch that displayed, simultaneously, mean-solar and sidereal time. “When I was a boy, going to the moon was the stuff of science fiction. The astronauts who went were brave chaps, the technology was the most advanced in the world and if the opportunity presented itself, I would have liked to have gone with them.” George Daniels, Master Watchmaker George Daniels made some of the most important watches in his lifetime, fusing together art, science and engineering. Every part of the two Space Traveller watches were hand-made by Daniels (except for the springs and the glass) and represented the pinnacle of independent watchmaking at the time. This practice, known as the ‘Daniels Method’ was taken on by his apprentice Roger W. Smith, today a highly acclaimed independent watchmaker in his ...
Video
Monochrome
In the ever-growing Seiko 5 Sports collection, there are classic models and then some pretty cool limited editions, either inspired by the past or produced in collaboration with brands or franchises that have not much to do with watchmaking (at least at first sight). That can be anything from Pepsi bezel watches actually made together […]
Monochrome
Founded by Andreas Felsl and Tzuyu Huang in 2007, Horage approached watchmaking from an unconventional angle: rather than starting with design and sourcing movements, the company began by developing in-house calibres. Now Horage has a portfolio built around modular movement families, the automatic K1, the micro-rotor K2, the K-TOU with a tourbillon regulator and K-TMR […]
Monochrome
In a basic mechanical movement, there are two primary springs: one that delivers power and another one to keep it accurately beating. But others are essential for this overall dance to work. Once complications are added, even more are needed and complex pieces can have dozens of springs. When most people think of a spring, […]
Monochrome
Hamilton is often referred to as the watchmaker of cinema, which is no surprise since Hamilton watches have appeared in more than 500 films. Recently, the brand has expanded its reach into video games, where immersion and character development are equally important. Hamilton Far Cry 6, Death Stranding 2 and Call of Duty: Black Ops […]
Monochrome
The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s was a defining moment for the industry, to say the least. Following Seiko’s Astron in 1969, the first quartz watch to hit the market, a huge swathe of traditional brands closed down as cheap, extremely accurate and virtually maintenance-free Japanese quartz watches hit the streets. Add to […]
Video
Revolution
Monochrome
The first mechanical clocks were actually bell towers without dials or hands. Bells would simply ring to mark the hours or special events, starting in the late 13th century in Europe (Italy and Germany to be specific). The name “clock” even comes from the Latin word for bell, clocca. Among the most famous of these […]
Hodinkee
The 707-piece limited-edition is cleared for takeoff.
Hodinkee
With an educational focus and unashamedly broad shoulders, the Decompression 02 is an uncommonly serious offering in the dive watch genre.
Revolution
Video
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