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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces May 18, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm

The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...

F.P. Journe Introduces the New Chronomètre à Résonance SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 28, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the New Chronomètre à Résonance

Since its launch in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance has perhaps become the quintessential F.P. Journe wristwatch. Still the only wristwatch to rely on the principle of resonance – omitting any mechanical means of transmission – the Résonance has been revamped and improved for its 20th anniversary. While the Résonance was powered by essentially the same calibre (the cal. 1499 in several generations) for its first two decades, the new Chronomètre à Résonance is equipped with the brand-new cal. 1520. Several features set the new movement apart from its predecessor, most notably the use of a single barrel and a remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism in each going train. Initial thoughts Having learnt a little about the new Résonance from hints dropped by Mr Journe in the past, I was looking forward to this – and the watch lives up to expectations. The basics of the new model are no surprise, since Mr Journe had let on that the movement will incorporate his signature remontoir. The upgrades to the new movement are sensible both in terms of function and timekeeping. Relying on a single barrel eliminates the finicky and occasionally unreliable double-barrel winding mechanism of the original movement. But the remontoir installed in each going train is the crucial upgrade as it optimises the going trains before and after the escapement. In the original Resonance movement, both balance wheels oscillate at an identical amplitude at any one time, but the am...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Apr 20, 2020

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon

Since Louis Vuitton acquired complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT) in 2012, the trunk maker has made impressive strides in its haute horlogerie. The newly launched Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s complicated watchmaking – confident, modern styling combined with a first-rate calibre. Granted, the Tambour Curve is pricey – US$250,000 pricey – but it is clearly catered for a specific consumer. That buyer wants an ultra-high end, contemporary, and slightly sporty watch, the type of watch found in the segment dominated by Richard Mille and Hublot. But Louis Vuitton has executed the Tambour Curve extremely well, creating an appealing – and importantly, cohesively designed – wristwatch that is more than just looks. The LV 108 movement inside was developed and made by LFDT, which is led by veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom I hold in very high regard. Louis Vuitton long-term strategy in developing its watchmaking – essentially do it well and expensively – is demonstrated by the quality of the Tambour Curve. The brand could have gotten away with building a so-so watch, just because it is Louis Vuitton. But it didn’t, and the Tambour Curve exhibits a notable level of attention to detail in styling and craft. CarboStratum The Tambour Curve is a big watch with a streamlined, rounded form that is almost organic. Not only is the case round, its flanks are concave, whil...

IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Movements – Part II Mar 21, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives

If you haven’t yet read Part I, find the full article right here.  This year, to mark its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has introduced two new movements, representing each of the brand’s two pillars: Calibre 9RA5 is a Spring Drive movement while Calibre 9SA5 is a traditional mechanical movement. These are entirely new movements, with every … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ikepod Introduces the Megapod Automatic SJX Watches
Mar 20, 2020

Ikepod Introduces the Megapod Automatic

After the successful launch of its debut line of quartz watches in 2018, the resurrected Ikepod has now unveiled the Megapod, a remake of the quintessential Ikepod design, but now with an automatic movement. As with its earlier quartz offerings, the Megapod is an affordable, crowdfunded project. Originally founded by Swiss businessman Oliver Ike and legendary industrial designer Marc Newson in 1994, Ikepod gained a cult following for its incredibly distinctive, organic-UFO design. But hindered by high prices and artsy marketing, the brand’s watches never really sold widely, leading it to struggle financially. Ikepod folded in 2006, before being revived shortly after and then going under again in 2012, when Mr Newson finally parted ways with the brand. The Megapod M001 with a blue, sunray-brushed dial In contrast, today’s Ikepod is all about the same signature aesthetic, but matched with affordability. Led by a three-man investor group that includes Christian-Louis Col, an old hand in the luxury goods business who was most recently sales director at glassmaker Lalique. Recognising that the main draw of Ikepod’s watches lay in the inimitable design, and not finishing or movements, the brand now relies on low-cost production: it assembles the watches in Hong Kong, using dials and hands from Taiwan and cases made in China. As with the initial quartz-powered models, the Megapod has a stainless-steel case in the original Ikepod shape. It is a tad larger than the quartz mo...

Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 SJX Watches
Mar 9, 2020

Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2

Two years ago, German independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke announced his first proprietary movement, the Kaliber 1, which was developed in collaboration with Habring2. A year later, the movement has made its debut in a pair of classically-styled watches – the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2. Both models mark a stark departure from his earlier watches both in terms of design and price. Based in a small town east of Dresden, Kudoke was best known extravagantly engraved, skeletonised  timepieces, often powered by a Unitas-based movement (which meant they were all relatively large). But the latest Kudoke watches are far more understated, as well as attractively priced, starting at just over US$7,900. In fact, these watches present a compelling proposition, offering an unusual level of hand-decoration for its price bracket, save for a handful of other small independents, such as D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The Kudoke 1 Gently hand-engraved The Kudoke 1 is a well-designed watch showing the hours, minutes and seconds, while the Kudoke 2 replaces the seconds with a wonderfully engraved day and night indicator. Both watches are compact and thin enough to wear comfortably, though not quite so thin as to be true formal watches. Instead they feel like elegant everyday watches with discreet, appealing details in the hands, dial and movement. The two have the same steel case that’s 39 mm wide, but differ slightly in thickness due to the addition of the domed day and night indicator in the Kudoke ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001

Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002

Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...

Hands-On: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT SJX Watches
Montblanc Feb 13, 2020

Hands-On: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT

With an annual output of just over four million watches, Tissot is Switzerland’s largest watchmaker by volume, with the bulk of its watches being affordable and quartz. But it has also carved out a niche with equally affordable mechanical watches starting at a bit under US$400 for the Swissmatic (a close relative of the Swatch Sistem51 movement). One step up is the Powermatic 80, an automatic movement that more closely resembles a traditional calibre – with more metal components and less plastic bits. A complicated model within the family, if it can be called that, is the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT. It’s a dual time zone automatic starting at just US$875 – a value proposition that is also unusual in being one of the few GMT watches price below US$1,000. Chemin des Tourelles is the street in Le Locle where Tissot has had its factory since 1907 (though the brand was founded in 1853), sitting beside the facilities of Mido, Montblanc, and Vulcain. Unsurprisingly, the Chemin des Tourelles GMT is traditionally styled, though surprisingly large; the collection also includes a similarly affordable time-only automatic as well as a chronograph. The case is simple in form but appealing, with a surprising degree of detailing. The look is enhanced by the polished bevel on the outside edge of the lugs, which also have a notch where they join the case. And the case and bezel also have contrasting brushes and polished surfaces, making the whole more visually in...

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jan 31, 2020

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...

Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire Chanel’s Jan 11, 2020

Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire

Chanel’s best known watch is unquestionably the all-ceramic J12, now in its refined and upgraded second generation. But its most interesting watch – from a mechanic and design perspective – is the Monsieur de Chanel. Originally offered only in precious metals, the watch was last year given a stylish makeover with the Monsieur Édition Noire that’s clad entirely in matte black ceramic. A jumping hour with retrograde minutes, the Édition Noire is powered by the Calibre 1, an original, integrated movement produced with help from independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier. But equally important is its design, which is discreetly brilliant. The watch has the sort of thoughtful aesthetic that pays attention to the whole but also the details – the typeface used on the dial was designed expressly for the watch – that is expected from the grand Parisian fashion house. In fact, the design is more coherent and informed than many watches created by traditional watchmakers. The Chanel elements of the watch are subtle, like the octagonal frame for the hours inspired by the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle The long road Like other luxury fashion houses, Chanel has been working hard to make proper timepieces, watches that are well made and equipped with respectable movements. Earlier this year it took a 20% stake in movement maker Kenissi, in a joint venture with Tudor, which now produces calibres for the face-lifted J12. Kenissi is merely the latest investment in Chanel’s gradual...

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Dec 14, 2019

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. … ContinuedThe post Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 29, 2019

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition

Launched in 2016, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T remains the most affordable Swiss-made chronograph with touribllon, starting at just US$17,000. Despite the price, the Calibre Heuer 02T is an in-house movement that’s automatic, COSC-certified, and equipped with a lightweight flying tourbillon that has a carbon composite upper carriage and titanium base. The latest variant of the affordable “grand” complication is a limited edition made for Singapore retailer Cortina Watch. Dressed in orange and back, the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition is being offered only online, via the retailer’s website. As with the standard model, the case measures 45mm wide and 16.4mm high. It features the modular construction that characterises the Carrera line. The case middle is black-coated titanium paired with a black ceramic bezel, while the lugs, pushers and crown are steel. The dial is semi-skeletonised to reveal the grey, sandblasted base plate of the movement. Orange accents are applied to the dial and bezel, including the chronograph hands, and even the carbon composite upper cage of the tourbillon, creating a striking contrast with the black components. Mechanically the movement is identical to the standard Heuer 02T. Based on the CH-80 chronograph movement, it’s equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. And it has a 65-hour power reserve, with the balance running at a frequency of 4Hz. Key facts and price TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edi...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary - SRQ029J Time+Tide
Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Oct 2, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary - SRQ029J

Celebrating five decades since its first automatic chronograph was released, Seiko has just unveiled this, the new Seiko Automatic Chronograph SRQ029J 50th Anniversary. First revealed in 1969, the original Seiko Automatic Chronograph featured the Japanese watchmaker’s historic Calibre 6139 movement, which utilised an integrated vertical clutch and column wheel chronograph architecture. 1969 was a competitive and interesting … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary - SRQ029J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Chronograph 55th Anniversary - SRQ031J Time+Tide
Seiko Chronograph 55th Anniversary - Oct 2, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Chronograph 55th Anniversary - SRQ031J

Some of the coolest and cultiest of vintage Seiko watches are their calibre 5719 monopusher chronographs, released to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics of 1964 (an event for which Seiko were the official timekeepers btw). These watches didn’t look much like a chronograph, with only a single seconds hand and a bidirectional bezel to track … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Chronograph 55th Anniversary - SRQ031J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” Sep 10, 2019

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived

The latest anniversary edition for Singapore’s largest watch retailer has just dropped: the Monaco “The Hour Glass” is derived from the Monaco Calibre 11 launched at Baselworld 2015. But it combines the style of the 1970s with a modern twist, mixing a high-contrast, all-black case paired with a beige dial and red accents. Think of it as a modern take on the desirable Monaco “Dark Lord”. Unapologetically square Designed by Jack Heuer and named after the Formula 1 race on the principality, the Monaco was powered by the one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic cal. 11. But its true claim to fame is Steve McQueen, who wore one in Le Mans, making the original Monaco ref. 1133B with its distinctive blue dial something of an icon. Steven McQueen in Le Mans More crucially, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square watch when it was launched on March 3, 1969. This was achieved with the use of a one-piece inner case – essentially a square capsule containing the movement and dial – secured to the outer case with a notched system that created a tension seal. It was produced by Ervin Piquerez, a case maker best known for its “Super Compressor” dive watch cases, which received a patent for its landmark, square invention. The unusual Monaco case as illustrated by a “Dark Lord” – outer case in black PVD, and inner case in brushed steel And inside the case sat the Chronomatic cal. 11, a movement that was one of three ...

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original PanoInverse Aug 19, 2019

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse”

Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 15, 2019

EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne

TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer’s latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition Jul 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer’s Monaco at 50 celebration rolls on - we’ve already seen editions one and two - and the third, formally known as the TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition, has just been announced in New York City.  The basis for this watch is the Calibre 11-powered Monaco (obvs), in its distinctive (and large wearing) … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 Time+Tide
Panerai s latest Luminor Tourbillon May 27, 2019

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768

Panerai’s top-tier timepieces go by the name of Lo Scienziato - avant-garde evolutions of the brand’s classic case shapes that really let the watches’ technical side shine.  Of course, the technology is present in the movement: a skeletonised, three-dimensional offering that fills the 48mm case; the P.2005/T calibre boasts a central time and GMT, 24-hour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Have you ever seen a digital Monaco before? Meet the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine One Apr 30, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Have you ever seen a digital Monaco before? Meet the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine

One of the things I really like about this whole watch thing is that I can still be surprised. And when I spotted this post from the truly excellent Calibre 11, one of the leading resources for all things TAG Heuer and Heuer.   Now, I’m not claiming that I’m all over the Monaco - … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Have you ever seen a digital Monaco before? Meet the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The edgy, architectural Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Mar 28, 2019

HANDS-ON: The edgy, architectural Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon

Hublot has been growing the Spirit of Big Bang line slowly and steadily, and though the SoBB Yellow Sapphire was quite the cool addition, this new tourbillon is (in my humble opinion) easily the best new offering in the collection. The Hublot calibre HUB6020 was designed specifically for the tonneau-shaped case of the Spirit, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The edgy, architectural Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A vision in red – the brand new Omega De Ville Trésor 125th Anniversary Special Edition Time+Tide
Omega De Ville Trésor 125th Jan 22, 2019

INTRODUCING: A vision in red – the brand new Omega De Ville Trésor 125th Anniversary Special Edition

It’s well known that Omega loves an anniversary, but the one that I’m currently celebrating with them in Bienne is quite significant. This year marks 125 years since the Calibre Omega - a 19-ligne movement that was so significant that, a few years after its debut in 1894, the company changed its name to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A vision in red – the brand new Omega De Ville Trésor 125th Anniversary Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s dressy GMT – the SBGM235 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s dressy GMT – Oct 25, 2018

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s dressy GMT – the SBGM235

Most of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are built around one base - the 9S calibre, which turns 20 years old this year. The brand has celebrated with a series of limited editions, and this, the SBGM235, is the latest. Coming from the brand’s elegance collection, the SBGM235 follows the same fundamental form as the cream-dialled … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s dressy GMT – the SBGM235 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Made for adventuring over and under seas – the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive Oct 21, 2018

INTRODUCING: Made for adventuring over and under seas – the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245

There are certain (and few) movements in watchmaking that truly define a brand. Seiko’s Spring Drive is one of them. Unveiled by the Japanese manufacturer in 1999, it was four years later – after the inclusion of an improved automatic winding system and longer power-reserve – that the smooth sweeping calibre was adopted into the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Made for adventuring over and under seas – the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Moritz Grossmann’s first automatic watch the ATUM Hamatic Deployant
Moritz Grossmann Aug 18, 2018

Moritz Grossmann’s first automatic watch the ATUM Hamatic

Moritz Grossmann’s first automatic watch reveals the maison’s new approach to self-winding. It features a modern interpretation of an older-generation device:  a pendulum mass, referred to as an automatic hammer mechanism. Christened ‘Hamatic’, this piece transforms automatic winding into a fascinating visual experience within a brand new 106.0 calibre. Compared with standard rotor-based systems, this automatic hammer system is a thorough rarity. It works by transferring power from a moving bi-directional hammer with a heavy gold head that sits on a fine stem.