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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Soldera Wines: Sensational Super Tuscans With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory Quill & Pad
Jul 14, 2020

Soldera Wines: Sensational Super Tuscans With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory

The rise of Brunello has been recent. And, arguably, the single most convincingly 100 percent Brunello example of fine wine is Soldera at Case Basse according to Ken Gargett and other wine experts. But Soldera and the region have a dramatic background, one that might not be common knowledge outside Tuscany. Read on for a Hollywood script-worthy story and mouthwatering descriptions of Super Tuscan wines you may not (yet) be acquainted with.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001

Originally introduced as the 12-piece limited edition ref. 5303R-010 for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, the Minute Repeater Tourbillon was a unique watch amongst the brand’s grand complications. It combined an open dial, partially-skeletonised movement equipped with a minute repeater and tourbillon, within a case with contrast-colour gold inlays. Now the reference has entered the catalogue as a regular-production model with the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001. Initial thoughts When first debuted during the Grand Exhibition in Singapore, the ref. 5303R was polarising but popular. Traditionalists who favour the old-school Patek Philippe style (think Breguet numerals and leaf hands) didn’t appreciate it, but those who wanted something more contemporary or unusual loved it. Initially I though the look was too much, but came to appreciate it, especially in the context of a Patek Philippe collector who already has several watches. This looks different, while still having all of the key features that make it appealing, namely the excellent minute repeater sound and the “octopus” wheel on the back. Skeletonised and inlaid The key features of the new watch are identical to the Singapore edition. The movement is the Cal. R TO 27 PS, featuring both a minute repeater with cathedral gongs and tourbillon. Both the complications are visible on the dial, with the hammers and racks exposed at 11 o’clock, and the gongs circling the dial. Th...

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph Jul 11, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph is arguably the most captivating piece in the new Master Control series. The case is sharper than before in finishing, with more straight edges as opposed to rounded sides. Accompanied with the easily patinated strap, there is a certain sportiness to the otherwise classical watch. While the triple calendar may be seen as a budget calendar, the overall merit to the watch is its versatility.

New: Omega Constellation Gent’s Collection with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Omega Constellation Gent’s Collection Jul 10, 2020

New: Omega Constellation Gent’s Collection with Editorial Commentary

The next generation of the ever popular Omega Constellation is now launched. Here is the Press Release with our commentary in italics. The Constellation collection has been available in 39 and 36 mm in both mechanical and quartz movements. In this release, the collection gets updated with a 41mm case size, and mechanical movements. TheRead More

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Jul 10, 2020

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

Helmed by Pascal Raffy, Bovet is a small and independent brand that excels in timepieces that are ornate, original and eccentric – and often highly complicated. The modern-day philosophy of the brand echoes the brand’s origins in the 19th century when it was a leading purveyor of pocket watches to the Chinese market. This year, Bovet furthers its distinctive expression of watchmaking with the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Features an imposing but transparent sapphire case with a sloped, “writing desk” profile, the watch is equipped with a host of complications, from a flying tourbillon to a three-dimensional moon phase. And despite the name, Brainstorm Chapter Two is not just a sequel to the Brainstorm Chapter One, but is more like a newly-conceived watch. Initial thoughts Immediately eye-catching, the sapphire case has a very unconventional inclined shape. Introduced in 2016, the form takes after the traditional sloped-top writing desk and is now a signature Bovet design. While transparent sapphire cases are not new – they are in fact commonplace today with watches with several launched this year, including the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire and the Chanel J12 X-Ray – the Bovet case is unusual in form. It is not entirely sapphire, however, and instead made up of a titanium frame of the case back and lugs, with the sapphire case middle and front mounted on the frame. The titanium case back and its pins that secure the sapphire case middle Though fashi...

IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin Jul 9, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55

No fauxtina, no sub 40mm case and seemingly hewn out of a three ton block of arctic granite … I am blown away by how something so big can be so refreshing. A massive chunk of sandblasted blue freshness. You can tell by my name that I might have a Nordic bias here – but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Classic Origin Opaline SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 2, 2020

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Classic Origin Opaline

Laurent Ferrier is 10 years old, and to make the occasion the brand is launching the Classic Origin Opaline, a time-only, hand-wound watch with a slim, titanium case. In many ways, the new watch is a minimalist take on the standard Laurent Ferrier time-only watch – the style is beautiful, restrained, and typical of the brand, with a new(ish) and significantly simpler movement inside, allowing for a fairly affordable price. Initial thoughts The Classic Origin Opaline has the much-loved Laurent Ferrier look – fluid lines and elegant forms on the case and dial. And in the usual manner of the brand, the dial is unadorned but executed with fine materials – the hands and hour indices are solid white gold. The movement, however, falls a bit short. Laurent Ferrier’s earliest movements – the LF229.01 of the Galet Micro-Rotor and the LF619.01 of the Galet Tourbillon – were best-in-class calibres that excelled in construction, finishing, and details, which unfortunately set a very high bar. But since the company entered a prolonged period of management turmoil, its movements have lost the magic. The quality is still good, but they are no longer outstanding. The LF116.01 in the new Classic Origin Opaline is essentially a variant of the movement in the annual calendar and also found in the Bridge One with a reshaped base plate and bridges. It has large bridges with simple silhouettes, as well as solid, clean finishing. Granted, a handful of the traditional Laurent Ferrier f...

Panerai Luminor Due Pam 00926 – Hands on review WatchAdvice
Panerai Luminor Due Pam 00926 Jun 30, 2020

Panerai Luminor Due Pam 00926 – Hands on review

Panerai take the Luminor from the beach to the boardroom with the 38mm Luminor Due, but does it work? No brand has contributed to the proliferation of the over sized watch trend of the 2000’s more than Panerai. Known for pushing the upper limits of wearability, Stallone excepted, the Firenze based manufacture has routinely pumped out watches with 47 and even 50mm cases. In fact, the standard Panerai case size is a meaty 44mm, and that’s not taking into account the brands most recognisable feature, the crown guard. It’s a well established fact that Panerai watches are big and hardy. So, what happens when the brand takes their famous Luminor case and scales down to 38mm? Surely that’s just not Panerai, or is it? Recently I acquired the 38mm Panerai Luminor Due Pam00926, Panerai’s answer to the industries shift towards smaller case sizes. For reference, I have a 17cm wrist or about 6.7 inches in old money. Panerai has been a brand that like many of my small wristed brethren, I have admired from afar. The story of a late 19th century jewelery store in Firenze Italy, taking the dive into making their own watches with the help of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, has long captured my imagination. Panerai are a brand with significance in the watchmaking world at large, they developed radium paint which is the basis for all luminous materials used on dials today. Their signature Luminor crown guard was a big step in the road to true water resistance in wristwatches. W...

4 Impressive Bracelet Watches In 2020 From Breguet, Bulgari, Hublot, And Breitling Quill & Pad
Breitling Watch bracelets are often Jun 22, 2020

4 Impressive Bracelet Watches In 2020 From Breguet, Bulgari, Hublot, And Breitling

Watch bracelets are often as underrated as housekeeping in a good hotel: they are commonly taken for granted. Collectors usually focus on the shape of the case and look of the dial first, with the movement coming in a close second. Here Martin Green takes a closer look at four new watches of 2020 whose full-metal bracelets significantly change the look of them.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture

Patek Philippe’s 1,600 employees in Geneva began migrating to its expansive new headquarters last year, and now the move is almost complete. To commemorate the completion of the new manufacture, Patek Philippe has announced its very first new launch for 2020: the Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 “New Manufacture 2019”. A limited edition of 1,000 watches, the ref. 6007A has a steel case and a grey-blue dial finished with a variety of textures, including a “carbon” pattern on its centre. Initial thoughts The new ref. 6007A confirms the chatter that Patek Philippe is in the midst of evolving the Calatrava line by injecting more contemporary flair into its aesthetics, which began with last year’s quirky ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar. Though the new ref. 6007A is a very different watch – in fact, its styling brings to mind the unique ref. 5208T “Only Watch” – it too feels like a more casual take on the classic Patek Philippe gentleman’s watch. The case is steel and relatively large at 40 mm, while the dial has a sporty, instrument-like look (which can be explained by its inspiration, the speedometer-inspired ref. 6006G). Notably, the dial has a stamped guilloche centre, which is an unusual feature for a Calatrava. And it also features applied Arabic numerals in white gold, a luxe detail for a simple watch. It will doubtlessly be a lightweight, thin watch that is easy and comfortable to wear, especially since the steel case is more hardwearing than the usual 18k go...

Hands-On: Santos de Cartier Chronograph XL SJX Watches
Cartier Chronograph XL Cartier gave Jun 12, 2020

Hands-On: Santos de Cartier Chronograph XL

Cartier gave the Santos a thorough overhaul two years ago, revamping the case design (and incorporating a practical, easy-to-adjust bracelet) and equipping the line with an in-house movement, resulting in a successful new look for a watch first designed in 1904. That was followed by the introduction of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph XL last year, which boasts a smartly-designed case and dial, as well as an in-house movement. Initial thoughts The new Santos chronograph is one of the best value proposition amongst sporty chronographs in its price range; the base model in steel starts just under US$9,000. It combines a sharply-finished case with a solidly-constructed in-house movement, along with the historical lineage of the Santos design. Beyond that, the Santos chronograph also appeals for the thoughtful design, like the subtly-positioned chronograph button at nine o’clock. But it is a little large at over 43 mm in diameter, and feels chunky, though not as much as its predecessor. Inevitably, the Santos chronograph, regardless of design, will lose some of the elegance possessed by the time-only Santos. Variants of the Santos chronograph. Photo – Cartier Of the variants available, the two-tone model in steel and yellow gold feels the most complete. It’s a little 1980s in style, but in a good way, and the distinctive Santos bracelet is a must have (and it’s also delivered with an additional rubber strap moulded to resemble the metal links). But the downside is t...

Auction Watch: Singer Reimagined Track 1 Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe souscription watches Jun 10, 2020

Auction Watch: Singer Reimagined Track 1 Prototype at Phillips

Founded in 2017 as the watchmaking arm of Singer Vehicle Design, the critically-acclaimed rebuilder of early 1990s Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined specialises in chronographs powered by an ingenious Agenhor movement. But before Singer Reimagined settled on its retro-inspired case design, it made a Track 1 prototype with an equally retro but more angular case that is going under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva watch auction, the same that includes a pair of much-hyped F.P. Journe souscription watches. The production version of the Track 1 has cushion-shaped, titanium case with a radial brushed finish that is very much reminiscent of sports chronographs of the 1970s that were produced by host of brands, ranging from Omega to Heuer. It also has a “bullhead” pusher layout, with the chronograph buttons on the left and right sides of the case. More importantly, the standard Track 1 features short lugs with a narrow hood over the end of the strap, making the strap look almost integrated. The Track 1 in 18k gold (left) and titanium In contrast, the prototype has longer lugs with a pronounced opening for the strap. It’s still made of titanium, with a similar brushed case finish, and also evocative of the 1970s, but a different look altogether. Like the production watch, the prototype has wide, polished bevels separating the brushed tops and sides of the cases The prototype is fitted to a NATO-style leather strap – with matching, brushed titanium rings – that loo...

Hands On & Live Photos: MB&F; x H. Moser LM101 And H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Quill & Pad
H. Moser LM101 Jun 4, 2020

Hands On & Live Photos: MB&F; x H. Moser LM101 And H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

GaryG loves a surprise! And in the case of the newly-minted H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and MB&F; x H. Moser LM101, he is surprised not once, but twice: two distinctive watches that somehow manage the tricky task of maintaining the core brand identity of the lead brand for each, while successfully integrating identifiable cues from the other.

Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Ultraviolet SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 2, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Ultraviolet

While Zenith occasionally looks into its famed attic for inspiration, the brand regularly shows off its innovation and forward-thinking sensibilities. Case in point – the new Defy 21 Ultraviolet. The watch is dressed entirely in violet, a colour with one of the highest frequencies in the visible spectrum, making the livery a conceptual complement to the 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 9004 inside the watch. Initial thoughts It never really struck me how uncommon the colour is in watchmaking until I saw the new Defy 21 (though the influencer and collector Amr Sindi has collaborated with several brands to create watches in the colour, and may have had a hand in conceiving the Defy 21 Ultraviolet). A bold choice of choice, violet is used for the dial and strap, but also throughout the movement, making for a fun and casual watch, especially on the rubber strap covered in violet fabric. Though the violet elements might seem loud at first glance, the colour isn’t actually too much. It’s a dark purple that’s more Imperial Rome than Joker from Batman. And it is essentially a two-colour watch in violet and dark grey; the use of a micro-blasted titanium case, helps to diminish the visual prominence of watch. Colour aside, the Defy 21 is a strong value proposition – though it’s the best value in its simplest guise – offering a twin-oscillator, high-frequency chronograph movement for a relatively affordable price. A new face Colour aside, the look is pretty much like the...

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys SJX Watches
May 29, 2020

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys

A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...

Cartier Introduces a Pair of Grand Complications (and a Mystery) SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces May 22, 2020

Cartier Introduces a Pair of Grand Complications (and a Mystery)

Since its debut in 2008, the Cartier Fine Watchmaking (FWM) collection has been the jeweller-watchmaker’s flagship range of timepieces, incorporating highly complicated movements into watches designed in traditional Cartier style, albeit in very large cases. This year’s Fine Watchmaking line-up is made up of four watches – led by the uber-complex Grand Complication Skeleton – all presented in the round Rotonde de Cartier case. Initial thoughts I have held the Cartier FWM collection in high regard – it is testimony to the brand’s haute horlogerie prowess, which most tend to underestimate or are unaware of. So it was a bit disappointing to see FWM recede slightly starting in 2018 as Cartier focused instead on its historical, time-only watches – such as this year’s Tank Asymétrique – which have been resurrected as the Cartier Privé collection. The debut of this quartet of watches is a pleasing return to form for FWM, though it should be pointed out none of the are entirely new in terms of movements. The “mystery” complication of Cartier has been found in several FWM models in the past, but it never fails to astound. The mystery hours, for instance, are simple, time-only watches but have a great deal of visual allure. And the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton revives one of the most complicated movements ever developed by Cartier, while being visually stimulating with its open-worked dial that exposes the intricate and complex move...