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Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition Aug 9, 2022

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black

For a relatively small manufacture like Armin Strom, scaling the production is not an easy thing, nor something that is always as desirable as it looks. However, creating watches that remain virtually unobtainable for most (potential) clients also isn't. That is why Armin Strom is already releasing the second edition of the Orbit, which is also limited to 25 pieces.

HANDS-ON: The Edox SkyDiver Limited Editions Time+Tide
Edox Jul 17, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Edox SkyDiver Limited Editions

The world definitely doesn’t need more dive watches, but we certainly want them. No matter how saturated the formula may become, it doesn’t stop the pang of longing that some collectors feel when they see a particular execution that matches their tastes. The Edox SkyDiver taps into that 1960s tribute style while modernising several attributes, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Edox SkyDiver Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2022

The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer

The brief at Brellum is usually quite simple, I presume. Create well-specced watches, in limited numbers, while minimising mark-ups. That last part is an often-heard filler for independent brands, but it’s also where Brellum differs from many - offering proper substance. The new Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer happens to be one of the more … ContinuedThe post The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board SJX Watches
Breitling Jun 8, 2022

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board

Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin I know I cannot May 27, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin

I know I cannot complain, considering I was just in London visiting arguably the world’s greatest watch collection, but watching Andrew from the sidelines this past week has given me serious FOMO. Vacheron Constantin, within their Métiers d’Art range, does not only represent the pinnacle of the manufacture’s capabilities, but also the pinnacle of craftsmanship … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime May 3, 2022

A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime

Thinness is the word of the day, everyday, for Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo. Currently holding world records in several different categories, the Roman Jeweller imbues its design language throughout the watches it produces, while also making them genuinely wearable pieces. The accolade of thinnest may have been niche in the not too distant past, but is … ContinuedThe post A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Apr 6, 2022

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3

Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...

Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction Time+Tide
Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells Mar 3, 2022

Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction

As Michael Caine went from strength to strength in the 1970s, he was frequently pictured with a gold Rolex. I’ve written before about my love for the Day-Date on a leather strap that he wore in Get Carter. But Caine also showed his forward-thinking mindset by also snapping up this 18K gold Oysterquartz Day-Date, which … ContinuedThe post Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fly fishing in New Zealand with the Seiko Alpinist Time+Tide
Seiko Alpinist Many people will Feb 17, 2022

Fly fishing in New Zealand with the Seiko Alpinist

Many people will celebrate a milestone event by purchasing a new watch but you can also add milestone memories to a watch already in your collection. A short time ago my good friend, Mark, invited me to join him on a guided fly-fishing expedition out of Wanaka, New Zealand, with local guide Jake Berry. I … ContinuedThe post Fly fishing in New Zealand with the Seiko Alpinist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider Time+Tide
Tissot Feb 16, 2022

5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider

Having worked for Tissot selling their watches for two years before joining the T+T team, I’d like to think that I have a comprehensive grasp of their offering. Purchasing trends were easily noticeable during that time, but what was also apparent is that some great watches were criminally overlooked. With models such as the PRX … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 25, 2022

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only

While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Inaugurated Dec 21, 2021

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst

An exhibition dedicated to limited-edition watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Exceptional Masterpieces recently concluded after a five-day run in Singapore. The event was fully subscribed every day it was open, but attendance was limited due to health regulations. Amongst the watches on show were all the Handwerkskunst limited editions. German for “craftsmanship”, handwerkskunst is an apt label for the series, which is made up of watches featuring artisanal decoration executed by hand, most often engraving but also enamelling on occasion. Inaugurated a decade ago, the series is now a family of seven watches, but each model was limited to no more than 30 pieces, which means the entire series totals less than 200 watches, making them amongst the rarest of Lange watches. So for anyone who missed out on the exhibition, here’s a look at five of our favourite Handwerkskunst editions. (For an in-depth look at each of the Handwerkskunst watches, see our definitive guide to the series published in 2020.) 2012 – Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (ref. 140.048) The second of the series, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst very much stuck to the formula set established by opening act, the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Handwerkskunst. While the mechanics remained almost identical, the decoration an upgraded over the standard version with elaborate engraving on both the front and back, but executed in a restrained manner that embodies the low-key style of the German watchmaker. Preci...

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2021

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show

Are you reeling from the finale of Succession, too? Over the nine episodes of the third season, the HBO show has consistently upped the dramatic ante, combining Machiavellian politics with sibling rivalry and filial warfare. Sure, that may just sound like the ingredients of your average family Christmas. But part of Succession’s giddy appeal – … ContinuedThe post Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider Deployant
Luminox Dec 4, 2021

Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider

The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.

Business News: Investors Led by Kari Voutilainen Acquire Urban Jurgensen SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Nov 23, 2021

Business News: Investors Led by Kari Voutilainen Acquire Urban Jurgensen

Confirming chatter that was circulating in Geneva during watch auction season two weeks ago, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) has been taken over by a group of investors with Kari Voutilainen at the helm. Having worked at UJS decades ago as a young watchmaker, Mr Voutilainen is returning as the chief executive. He will also retain his role at his namesake brand, which recently moved into new premises high up above the town of Fleurier on the mountain known as Chapeau de Napoléon. Kari Voutilainen Working alongside Mr Voutilainen at UJS will be his daughter, Venla, who recently completed her watchmaking studies and then an internship at a large watch retailer. Better known for the unique pocket watch she helped create for Only Watch 2019, Ms Voutilainen will be in charge of after-sales service at UJS, while also working at the Voutilainen brand itself. Originally an 18th century Danish brand, UJS was revived in the 1970s by the late Peter Baumberger. Control then passed on to watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott after Baumberger’s death. During that period, Mr Voutilainen became involved with the brand once again, when he helped to refine its in-house calibre. UJS was then taken over by its most recent owners, Danish investors led by former Nokia executive Søren Jenry Petersen. Although the brand earned some press with new products during that period, most notably with its first sports watch, UJS never gained the necessary momentum to break into the ranks of top...

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Experience Singapore Nov 16, 2021

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore

An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...