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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Yesterday

The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection

Doxa is expanding its standard-production Sub 300 collection with the new Sub 300 Ti5. This introduction marks the permanent return of Grade 5 titanium to the range and comes in five of the brand’s signature colorways. Among the lineup is even a fully luminescent Whitepearl dial. The Sub 300 dates back to 1967, when Doxa […] Visit The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection to read the full article.

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Yesterday

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm

Girard-Perregaux writes the next chapter in the Laureato’s long and storied history. Launched in 1975, just three years after the Royal Oak and a year before the Nautilus, the Laureato is considered an honorary member of the luxury integrated sports watch genre. The Laureato underwent its fifth evolution in 2016, becoming a contemporary, fully-fledged luxury […]

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Yesterday

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video)

Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant can now boast an impressive lineup of 35 in-house calibres powering the brand’s top-tier Manufacture pieces.  Redesigned and relaunched in 2020, the Highlife collection is Frederique Constant’s vision of a versatile luxury sports watch with a barrel-shaped case, an interchangeable integrated bracelet and a textured dial. Last year, the brand […]

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time Yesterday

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video)

For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Italian brand Bulgari and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter joined forces to bring us one of the most distinctive interpretations of the Octo Finissimo to date. Seen at a glance, the influence of Halter is unmistakable. The multiple displays, hands, white opaline surfaces and porthole-like bezels recall the legendary Antiqua, developed […]

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Yesterday

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video)

The Chronomaster Sport is one of Zenith’s most recognisable modern series, featuring a contemporary sports-watch case and, naturally, an El Primero chronograph movement. For 2026, however, Zenith takes an unexpected turn. The new Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the chronograph and debuts as a three-hand watch yet remains powered by one of the manufacture’s high-frequency El […]

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Fratello
Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Yesterday

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition

A character who, in his first television appearance, attempted to eat a rubber tire to the frantic tempo and tune of Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov’s “Flight of the Bumblebee” deserves a watch. On the night of April 25th, 1977, The Great Gonzo set the tone for future death-defying and bizarre stunts in The Muppet Show and continued […] Visit Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition to read the full article.

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Yesterday

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport as its modern sports chronograph. The new series was widely discussed immediately after its release, and despite (or perhaps due to) its hotly debated Rolex Daytona-like aesthetic, it became a massive commercial success for the Le Locle-based brand. Over time, Zenith introduced several new versions that widened the […] Visit A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport to read the full article.

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Yesterday

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial

What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...

Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II Hodinkee
Oris Social Club Edition II Yesterday

Introducing: The Oris Social Club Edition II

What We Know As part of the brand's varied releases for Geneva Watch Days, Oris has announced the Social Club Edition II, a special creation sold exclusively online in partnership with the Oris Social Club. The group spans some 62 chapters all over the world, and the latest offering to the acolytes is a handsome expression of the Aquis Relief that incorporates a green nylon NATO-style strap.  Measuring in at 43.5mm, the Social Club Edition II builds upon the standard Aquis Relief by complementing the steel bezel design with a frosted silver finish for the dial. Look a bit closer, and you'll see that there is an easter egg for the date, too, as the first-of-the-month position will feature an image of Oris' mascot, the Oris Bear. Flip the watch over, and you'll find a custom caseback showing the Oris factory in Holstein and "OSC | INT" to mark the club's international membership.  The full specs are provided below, but the Oris Social Club Edition II is 13.1mm thick and 51mm lug to lug with 300 meters of water resistance protecting the Oris 733 movement within. The 733 is based on the Sellita SW 200-1 and is an automatic, Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz and offers a date, which, for this model, is at 6 o'clock.  Perhaps most interesting – or perhaps I just like NATO straps – Oris has elected to fit lug adapters to the Aquis' proprietary lugs to enable the use of a green NATO strap. The Oris Social Club Edition II is not limited and will be available in Septembe...

The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian Fratello
Gerald Genta Yesterday

The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

The Gérald Genta brand is putting its legendary founder’s philosophy at the top of its priorities. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a new Golden Obsidian version of the Geneva Minute Repeater. This 40mm 3N yellow gold novelty comes after the 2025 Geneva Minute Repeater Black Onyx. It also houses the manually wound […] Visit The Way Gérald Genta Intended: The Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian to read the full article.

Introducing - The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk Serie Atelier Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk Serie Yesterday

Introducing - The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk Serie Atelier

Following the inaugural Classic Moon models presented in 2024 by Laurent Ferrier, the new Classic Moon Dusk Série Atelier retains the same combination of annual calendar and moon phase but introduces an entirely different atmosphere. Here, the familiar 40mm Galet-shaped case is crafted in yellow gold, exclusively for the Série Atelier collection, creating the mood […]

Hittin’ Switches With The Voxel Meridion VX01-E Fratello
Yesterday

Hittin’ Switches With The Voxel Meridion VX01-E

New brands pop up frequently, but few open with a proprietary mechanical complication that actually changes how you read the time throughout the day. Voxel, founded by French creative director Thibault Luc and Vallée de Joux engineer Bruno Herbet, does exactly that with its debut, the Meridion VX01-E. Unveiled during Geneva Watch Days 2026, the […] Visit Hittin’ Switches With The Voxel Meridion VX01-E to read the full article.

De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style SJX Watches
De Bethune Revives Yesterday

De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style

One of De Bethune’s earliest models was a jumping hours wristwatch and now the brand has returned to concept with the DB25 Digitale. While largely similar to the earlier version in terms of function, the latest Digitale is presented in a new format. This is the third iteration of the Digitale – the second was introduced some 12 years ago – and the most elaborate yet in decorative terms. The case is in the wearable DB25 style, but the dial is decorated with the brand’s hallmark techniques, wavy guilloche and star-studded heat-blued titanium. Initial thoughts The DB25 Digitale revives one of De Bethune’s initial concepts, the “digital” time display, but now presented in the De Bethune greatest-hits livery of expansive blued titanium decorated with both the sea and the stars. With its striking, high-contrast colours, the new Digitale looks more current than its predecessor that carried something of an Art Deco pocket watch aesthetic. Admittedly, the DB25 Digitale is a cosmetic makeover and doesn’t add much novelty in technical terms. But it is still very much up to date in technical terms, illustrating the remarkable technical innovation, driven by Denis Flageollet, which continues to serve as De Bethune’s foundations. The DB2144V3 movement remains a sophisticated calibre even though it’s over two decades old. In fact, it arguably boasts substantially more technical content that “new” movements recently debuted by startup independent watchmakers. At CH...

Christopher Ward Introduces the new Biscay Dive Watch Collection Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Yesterday

Christopher Ward Introduces the new Biscay Dive Watch Collection

Christopher Ward has recently expanded their Trident family with the C60 Trident Biscay, set to replace the C65 Aquitaine. The UK-based watchmaker has pulled inspiration from two reference points: the skin divers of the 1960’s and the collection’s namesake, the Bay of Biscay  – which, for anyone who struggles with geography like moi, is the body of water nestled between the northern coast of Spain and the western coast of France and not Biscayne Bay, which is a lagoon in Florida. The end result is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, C60 Trident Biscay GMT, and C60 Trident Biscay Bronze. The first in the collection is the C60 Trident Biscay Automatic, available in 39mm and 42mm stainless steel cases. It uses Christopher Ward’s Light-catcher case with a slim 11mm profile and box sapphire crystal. This particular model also includes a granular dial, minimal text, and applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The Automatic is available in black, sand/black, and black/red and has a price tag starting at $1,870. Next is the GMT, which also comes in 39mm and 42mm sizes. Here, Christopher Ward has added a fourth hand for tracking another time zone and a bi-directional aluminum bezel in two-tone color combinations. The framed date window replaces the 6 o’clock numeral, while the surface-hardened bezel has a hardness level of 250HV, which Christopher Ward says is 67% harder than untreated aluminum. The GMT is available in black/red and sand/blue, and is priced f...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute 2 days ago

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom

What We Know Last week, Vacheron Constantin presented the latest in their Métiers d'Art collection, the Métiers d'Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. The impressive collection, which is based on Vacheron's four-aperture display Métiers d'Art watch, is made up of six watches, each featuring a facsimile of an animal made out of an unexpected blend of materials and construction. Notably, each dial in the series was created not by a watchmaker, but rather by an independent artist. This last part is key to the Métiers d'Art idea, which offers watches as a platform for artistry of all sorts, resulting in a collection unlike any other I can think of. The six watches that make up this collection are the: Feathersnake, which features a snake made of several hundred pieces of Lophophore and Goose feather; Glassoctopus, which features a hand-melted and shaped glass octopus set on a hand-guilloched gold-base coated in dark blue; Oraygami, which sets a fever of origami paper rays again against a hand-guilloched gold-base finished in blue; Tigerbroidery, which renders a tiger through an embroidered silk dial using yellow and white gold wire, black ceramic–coated wire, and British and Japanese silk; Papercroc, which uses paper sculpture to evoke a crocodile; and Woodenwings, which features a marquetry dial rendition of a flacon. To go into the process behind each of these dials would take up far more time and space than is available here (maybe something to go into if ever I get to ...

Tudor’s 100th Anniversary Celebration Continues with the Return of the North Flag Worn & Wound
Tudor s 100th Anniversary Celebration 2 days ago

Tudor’s 100th Anniversary Celebration Continues with the Return of the North Flag

We knew some big moments would come as Tudor notches its impressive 100th anniversary as a brand this year, and this is one of them: the revival of the North Flag. The aptly named collection has come to serve as the north star for Tudor’s modern offerings and set the tone for the brand in the past decade. When the model first debuted in 2015, it marked the first Tudor watch to house an in-house movement coupled with an exhibition caseback to show it off. The COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 that powered the original was just the jumping off point for Tudor to upgrade models across its catalog with manufacture movements and chronometer certification. Now, in the newly revived North Flag line, we get even greater attention on technical capabilities with METAS certification, giving it Master Chronometer status, as well as the addition of a GMT complication.Despite the advancements we’ve seen throughout the North Flag collection and in the newest edition today, the model remains deeply rooted in Tudor’s history and makes for a fitting addition to its 100th anniversary offerings. The Ranger II from 1973 has served as the historic touchpoint for the collection since its inception. There are several key design codes that create a throughline from the Ranger II to the original North Flag and now the latest edition. These include the black dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, the arrow-shaped 24-hour and hours hands coupled with an angular seconds hand and a baton-shaped...

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger SJX Watches
Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper 2 days ago

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger

A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...

First Look - The New Louis Erard Marqueterie de Paille, an Attainable take on the Straw Marquetry Monochrome
Louis Erard Marqueterie de Paille 2 days ago

First Look - The New Louis Erard Marqueterie de Paille, an Attainable take on the Straw Marquetry

It’s fair to say that since Manuel Emch joined Louis Erard in 2021, the brand has blossomed. Whether it’s the wide range of collaboration watches produced with esteemed watchmakers (Silberstein, Chaykin, Halter) or its lineup of beautiful dials, often crafted with traditional decorative techniques at accessible prices, Louis Erard has become a go-to brand for […]

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King George III, the Scientific Monarch and his Passion for Science and Horology Worn & Wound
Tudor England 2 days ago

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King George III, the Scientific Monarch and his Passion for Science and Horology

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. King George III, who reigned from 1760 to 1820, had a deep interest in science, particularly astronomy, horology, mathematics, and natural philosophy. He was one of the most scientifically minded British monarchs and commissioned several important horological instruments and supported scientific institutions during his reign. King George III (1738–1820) is often remembered for his struggles with mental illness during his long reign, but he was also deeply engaged in science, astronomy, and horology. Although his interest did not necessarily come directly from his grandfather, King George II, there are examples of important commissions made prior to him succeeding to the throne. One such piece is the magnificent Grand Orrery below made by leading London maker, Thomas Wright in 1733. Image 1 – George II’s Grand Orrery, Fleet Street, made by Thomas Wright, c.1733. King’s College London © T...

A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT Fratello
Tudor Northflag GMT Tudor just 2 days ago

A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT

Tudor just unveiled its new Northflag watch. The name isn’t new, as the brand initially launched this explorer’s model in 2015, just before Baselworld. I clearly recall that launch, which featured Tudor bringing Land Rover Defenders into a dark Swiss forest (ensuring safety) to reveal the watches inside an adventurous tipi tent setup. The Tudor […] Visit A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT to read the full article.

Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time Hodinkee
Tudor Northflag Returns 2 days ago

Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time

What We Know Tudor's North Flag has always been something of an outlier. It was originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld and was the first Tudor to feature one of the brand's in-house movements. Only ever available in two specs, on a bracelet or on a leather strap, the North Flag (91210N) was discontinued in 2021. Today, the Northflag (now one word) returns, evolving the 2015 offering with a single reference that sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone.  The new Northflag, ref. 9140G1A0U, uses 316L stainless steel for its 40mm case and integrated bracelet. The case is 12.7mm thick and 48.8mm lug-to-lug. Compared with the 40 x 13.3 x 50mm of the original North Flag, this new model should be more compatible with smaller wrists thanks to its more compact dimensions. The water resistance is 100 meters, and it has a domed sapphire crystal up front and a display caseback.  Inside, and viewable via that display caseback, is Tudor's MT5652-U automatic movement. It's a 4Hz METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a stated accuracy of -0 to +5 seconds/day. For those keeping track, this is the same second time zone-equipped movement found in the Pelagos FXD GMT. Both the date and the GMT function are set via the crown, and adjusting the second time zone is done by jumping the local hour hand to a new time zone (such as when you land at your destination) in standard "flyer" GMT functionality.  Like its predecessor, the second-gen Northflag's dial is black, with minimal text an...

First Look - The new M.A.D.3 Brings Vincent Calabrese’s Jumping Hour into the M.A.D.Editions Universe Monochrome
MB&F; … 2 days ago

First Look - The new M.A.D.3 Brings Vincent Calabrese’s Jumping Hour into the M.A.D.Editions Universe

A celebration of proper independent watchmaking, looking back at the early days of creative thinking, unusual displays and complications that, back then, felt almost rebellious. A best of all we love here at MONOCHROME, served on a platter by the great minds of MB&F;… And at a fairly attainable price, as you’d now expect from […]

Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Fratello
2 days ago

Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Ask any watch fan about the different M.A.D.Editions, and you’ll probably hear about the wacky, colorful aspects of the M.A.D.1 or the bonkers and fun modifications to the standard off-the-shelf caliber that powers the watches. For the new M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the brand presents a watch that almost looks deceivingly modest. But we all know […] Visit Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese to read the full article.

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Bulgari BVL 362 based 2 days ago

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

More than a decade after unveiling its first in-house minute repeater, Piaget has revived the once-record-setting calibre in a familiar-looking guise. The new Polo Minute Repeater pairs the ultra-thin, micro-rotor cal. 1209P with the modern Polo case and a striking, partially open-worked guilloche dial. Initial thoughts The Polo Minute Repeater is a new watch, but it bears a striking resemblance to the Emperador Coussin of 2013. This isn’t that surprising, since the contemporary Polo — refreshed in 2016 — borrows significantly from the Emperador’s case design. But in this case the similarity is more than skin deep, since the Polo Minute Repeater shares the same movement as its predecessor: the cal. 1209P. This ultra-thin calibre was once the world’s thinnest minute repeater — a title it maintained for three years before the launch of the Bulgari BVL 362, based on a 1980s Gerald Genta calibre. The Polo is big but flat, measuring 48 mm wide but just 9.3 mm thick. The size is partly due to the movement construction, which spreads out the major component groups into two slim planes with the escapement, micro-rotor, and twin minute repeater hammers on on one level, and the racks and centripetal governor on top. This 2010s-era sizing is arguably out of step with current fads where small watches are all the rage, but the watch is elegant and evokes 1970s “jumbo” watches with its wide-but-flat profile. In any case, wearability is probably a moot point considering t...