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Hodinkee
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
WatchAdvice
This year, IWC launched 41mm time-only versions of their Lake Tahoe and Mojave Desert Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN editions. In a slimmer case size, but still with the looks and feel of the bigger chronograph siblings, we had to test them out! What We Love The white ceramic on the Lake Tahoe is super fresh. The size and lighter weight make these very easy-to-wear watches Both rubber straps are comfortable, and each has nice design touches. What We Don’t The Mojave Desert can blend into your skin depending on your skin type The anti-reflective coating on the slightly domed crystal does make it hard to take a good photo! The luminescence on the hands and dial could be better and of a higher grade. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First Impressions When I first saw the white Lake Tahoe Pilot’s Watch 41 Top Gun earlier this year, I was keen to get both it and the Mojave Desert model to compare them properly. My initial impression? They’re essentially the same watch, just in different colourways, with the Mojave on a fabric-inlaid rubber strap and the Lake Tahoe on straight rubber. But sometimes, that slight aesthetic difference makes all the impact, as I was to find out! The Lake Tahoe feels fresh and bold. With its all-white case and strap against a black dial, it jumps off the wrist. The Mojave Desert, with its sand-coloured case, strap, and matching indices on a grey dial, is far more subdued. It blen...
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire isn’t just a watch. It’s a crystal-clear showcase of bold design and cutting-edge engineering. From the sapphire case to the architectural Unico movement inside, it is a timepiece that redefines transparency and demands attention on the wrist in a way few others can! What We Love Sapphire case is lightweight, transparent and beautifully executed, turninig the watch into a wearable sculpture The Unico 2 (HUB1280 movement) is one of the best chronograph movements in the modern watch market. Despite being 42mm, it wears surprisingly well thanks to the short lugs and rubber strap, and the wrist presence is unparralelled. What We Don’t Circular movement on a square case is visually noticeable in sapphire form, slightly breaking harmony. The transparency of the subdial makes the date harder to read compared to other models in the Square Bang Unico collection. Transparent rubber strap may show ageing or discolouration over time if exposed to strong sunlight. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9.0/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few watches turn heads quite like a sapphire-cased Hublot. With the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, Hublot takes transparency to new heights, transforming the bold square chronograph into a mechanical sculpture of light and precision. A square-shaped chronograph is rare in watchmaking, with the most iconic being the TAG Heuer Monaco. But as we know, with Hublot, they simply refu...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Discover the Christopher Ward Twelve 660, an ultra-thin 6.6mm sports watch featuring refined finishing and minimalist design
SJX Watches
Casio’ latest addition to its famous, shock-resistant sports watch is the G-Shock MT-G MTG-B4000 that was designed with the aid of artificial intelligence (AI). According to Casio, the new MT-G’s design was refined by AI using factors like shock resistance and machinability, resulting in an sleeker profile that departs from the chunky and flat style of the typical G-Shock. As part of the higher-end MT-G line that combines metal with resin, the solar-powered MTG-B4000 has a stainless steel inner case along with an outer case in carbon composite. More notably, the bezel has been polished with the Sallaz flat polishing technique that’s also known as Zaratsu and more often applied to premium mechanical watches by other Japanese watchmakers. The new MT-G is made in Japan like all high-end G-Shock models Initial thoughts Casio’s first attempt at an AI-designed G-Shock was the G-D001 Dream Project #2 in solid, 18k gold made to mark the 40th anniversary of the G-Shock. It was a one-off, unlike the limited edition vintage remake that was also in 18k gold. While the Dream Project #2 was impressive in its form and heft, the open-worked design was a little weird. It looks both sci-fi and fantasy, but with the wrong proportions of each. The new MT-G, on the other hand, looks more conventional and appealing. It still looks like a G-Shock, but different enough to be distinct. In fact, AI has argued improved the MT-G style, evolving it from the robot-like form of before to somethi...
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SJX Watches
De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...
Worn & Wound
Selten impressed me earlier this year with the release of their Grand Feu Enamel series, which features deeply engraved and colorful dials made in a traditional enamelling process. Artistic, craft forward dials made from interesting materials are their stock in trade, so it’s no surprise that they seem to be flourishing at this particular moment, when there’s a real hunger among collectors for watches that offer something a little more daring. As a certified mother of pearl addict (DM me if you need help finding a support group in your area) their latest release, a collaboration with the Hong Kong based watch collecting community Watch Ho & Co caught my eye. The Jui 聚 (which translate to “to meet, to gather”) features a dramatic Tahitian mother of pearl dial that is CNC engraved to form an elaborate and complex pattern. According to Selten, the design is inspired by ancient China, and the pattern itself is lifted from a motif often used in body armor. Over time, these shapes came to symbolize strength and security, which the brand is now pitching as a testament to the bonds formed within the watch community. This of course is a guiding principle that makes a lot of sense given the collaboration with a community of watch collectors. It’s underscored by the ethos of Watch Ho & Co with an engraving on the caseback reading “Good Vibes Only.” I’ll be honest, I’ve seen a lot of watches over the years with dials featuring abstract or obscure design motifs th...
Teddy Baldassarre
Generally speaking, most watch consumers tend to prefer watch designs that are - for lack of a better term - approachable, the kind of style that can be worn every day without drawing an undue amount of attention. Class is often associated with being understated, after all. For most enthusiasts, design, craftsmanship, mechanical complexity, and value for dollar are all subjectively weighed in an effort to determine the most appropriate timepiece decision. Naturally, the result is that the watch industry focuses a great deal of its effort on practical designs intended to please a large percentage of the population in an ultimate effort to sell. Outliers and more novel designs are considered risky and are often left behind in the race for mass-market appeal. But what if, some independent watchmakers ask, you’ve simply had enough of brands cutting-and-pasting each other’s designs? We’ve all noted, “That’s more or less a Rolex Submariner,” one too many times when seeing the latest "new" piece. Let's say that sometimes you may want something different and maybe even a little bit crazy. And for the sake of argument, and for a more comprehensive list, let's also say you have a nice chunk of money to spend. Sure, you could take your cash and make an informed, reasonable decision to keep on fitting in with all the other watch nerds on your Instagram feed, but this list is for enthusiasts interested in the road less traveled, searching for different, interesti...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex adds its first GMT to the Marlin collection. Priced from $199, the new Marlin Quartz GMT blends vintage design with travel-ready function.
Teddy Baldassarre
With Tissot's revival of its 1978 Seastar design and its transformation into the PRX line back in 2021, the brand seemed to catch lightning in a bottle, offering the watch-collecting world an integrated-bracelet style at an affordable price point. While the PRX collection initially debuted with quartz-powered watches (with price tags to reflect that), the brand built on the initial success of the new identity and further developed its value proposition with the release of PRX models incorporating an automatic mechanical movement - the Powermatic 80 caliber - all while remaining under the $1,000 mark. In the years since, Tissot has only continued to diversify its repertoire of models within the PRX model family, offering a variety of case sizes, additional functionality, and, of course, nearly every color option that you can dream up, still at one of the most competitive price points in the industry. We know it, we love it, and though we aren’t through the decade yet, I think it’s safe to say that the Tissot PRX has solidified itself as one of the most influential watches of the 2020s. Today, I'll focus on none other than the Tissot PRX 35mm. Inarguably, the 40mm PRX remains the most popular size of the watch, but as someone who makes her preference for smaller watches well-known, I would argue that shaving off just 5mm in diameter has a profound impact on the versatility of the design, especially for those with smaller wrists. Tissot PRX History Size comparison: ...
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Worn & Wound
I recently read Zach’s article on “Micro Indies,” in which he explains how small independent brands are challenging the bigger watch companies in terms of design and innovation, and yet offering watches in the $3,000 – $5,000 price range. This made me think about another category of brand that does not fall squarely into the “Micro Indies” bucket, but is a level above in terms of watchmaking and challenges the higher-end independent brands. I could not clearly decide on how to label this category – it is not accurate to call them “affordable independents” since they are not that affordable, therefore I landed on referring to them as “mid-level independents” or MLI for short. How do I define the MLI category? These are brands that fall in the $5,000 – $15,000 price range and offer a combination of various aspects of high horology – from in-house movements, dials, and finishing, to complications often seen in the higher spectrum of independents. Even though I selected this price range where the majority of the watches fall, there are outliers based on precious metals and complications, that can go well over $15,000, and sometimes into the six figures. I selected three very different brands to highlight in this category since their specialties cover different aspects of watchmaking: D. Dornblüth & Sohn, Laine, and Sartory-Billard. I will go into details on how each of these brands has their own niche in watchmaking, and how their strategy differs ...
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to the Sunday Morning Showdown you knew was coming. Today, we put Casio’s all-new mechanical Edifice EFK-100 up against the fan-favorite Citizen Tsuyosa. We’re still not entirely sure why Casio took this new path, but, like the Citizen Tsuyosa, the watches punch way above their weight. Both brands offer a design […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-100 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Last year, we saw a trio of new Seiko Samurai watches that aimed to broaden the collection’s appeal within the Prospex family. It’s fairly well understood that the Samurai has been seen as the odd man out among the “Seiko with a nickname” family, but why exactly is that? Well, it doesn’t have that vintage heritage, having only debuted in 2004. Also, the second generation has been around since 2017, and since then, tastes have certainly changed. The 44mm-wide case is a little too big for today’s tastes, where conventional wisdom puts anything above 42mm safely in the “huge” category (the case has been pretty thick, as well) . And while models like the Turtle, SKX007, or Willard (or even Tuna and Arnie) have rounded cases, the Samurai’s case has a very sharp and almost aggressively angular design that, again, is not for everyone. Wisely, Seiko’s third-generation Samurai addresses that persistent case-size issue while giving the dial a refresh too. Fortunately, the angular case is a bit more refined, yet no less geometrical. Sorry, that’s just part of the Samurai’s identity. Seiko Samurai Case and Bracelet First off, yes - the new Seiko Samurai has taken design cues from the Shogun. If that makes it not a “true Samurai,” then so be it, but the end result is one good-looking watch. The case improves over that of the second generation in just about every meaningful way (the older case is still available alongside this new iteration). First off, it ...
Fratello
It has been a while since we covered Unimatic, but that doesn’t mean the Milanese brand hasn’t been very active. On the contrary, Unimatic has recently released a few great collaborations. Among them were its first mechanical chronograph, created with Henry Singer, and a stellar blacked-out chronograph made in collaboration with US clothing brand Todd […] Visit Unimatic Unveils Its New Diving Heritage Collection That Perfectly Captures Vintage Charm to read the full article.
Time+Tide
In two dusty tones, the new addition to Glashütte Original's Senator line shows balance and poise in its design. The post Glashütte Original brings sultry shades of silver and copper to their signature Senator Panorama Date Moonphase (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...
In the world of watches, simplicity is frequently overlooked. But the new Brew Metric Lite is proof that petite doesn’t have to mean pared-down. With clean lines, charming proportions, and an unapologetically unisex design, it hits that rare balance of effortless style and everyday wearability. It’s not a trophy watch, it’s a companion-to coffee dates, late nights, and everything in between. The Metric Lite reimagines Brew’s signature style as something more universal-stripped back, but still unmistakably “Brew.” It’s an automatic three-hander with no gimmicks, just good design. The case is compact but confident, sliding under cuffs or over bare wrists with equal ease. And with a softened rectangular silhouette and muted dial tones, it’s simple yet stylish, fun yet formal, small yet substantial, refined yet relaxed. The post Lookbook: Brew Metric Lite is Finessed Form, Function, and Fun… All In One appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Zenith has once again partnered with the Australian watch media website Time+Tide on a limited edition Defy. The third watch in the trilogy, which follows the Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer from 2021 and the Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero in 2023 completes the concept of the “Surfer Trilogy” with a bold white ceramic case that incorporates design details from each of the previous watches. It’s definitely an aesthetic change of pace, but taken together, all three watches make a lot of sense as a trio. Prior “Surfer” limited editions have sold out quickly, so if you were after one and missed out, you now have another (final?) chance to snag one. Each of the previous limited edition Defys in the “Surfer” series have been in micro-blasted titanium cases, making the white ceramic here a stark contrast. Ceramic, though, is arguably the material most associated with the contemporary Defy, whether in the now discontinued Classic line or the new Skyline series. Zenith is one of a small handful of brands that has reached true expert status with this material. Like other Skylines, the case measures 41mm in diameter and is 100 meters water resistant with a screw down crown. We’ve seen a white ceramic Skyline before, but this new Time+Tide LE, even with a case that has so much presence, is really defined by the dial. That blue gradient dial is the design element that is carried over from prior “Surfer” watches and provides some coherence to th...
WatchAdvice
A chronograph that blends sporty functionality with refined Italian elegance. This is the Octo Roma Chronograph: a timepiece that feels as good on the wrist as it looks. What We Love The beautiful blue Clous de Paris dial adds texture and depth while remaining versatile for everyday wear. The watch is very comfortable to wear and fits slimmer wrists perfectly thanks to short lug-to-lug distance. Distinctive Octo Roma design blends sporty functionality with refined Italian elegance. What We Don’t The date window colour is not matched to the dial, slightly disrupting the cohesive aesthetic. The caseback winding rotor could be skeletonised for a more modern and engaging view of the movement. Lume application could be stronger for enhanced low-light legibility during evening wear. Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First introduced in 2012, Bvlgari’s Octo collection showcased the brand’s architectural design and mechanical mastery. This collection stood out proudly thanks to its distinctive case design, where the round bezel with an eight-sided profile gave it a distinctive silhouette. The Octo collection, however, quickly became known for so much more than this signature design. Breaking records became the norm for the collection, as the brand kept pushing the boundaries of watchmaking through the Octo Finissimo timepieces which debuted in 2014. Three years later, in 2017, Bvlgari introduced the late...
Hodinkee
The watches and style of the summer outing for the influential menswear trade show.
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Tissot PRX Chronograph is one of the latest releases from the Tissot PRX collection, one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction (or, more accurately, re-introduction) to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch-aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio, adding the first chronograph models to the growing lineup in 2022. Tissot PRX Origins It all started with the original Tissot PRX watch, which debuted in 1978 and which, like many watches from that era, was powered by a quartz movement. The PRX was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The latter had, in fact, exerted influence...
Teddy Baldassarre
When watch enthusiasts think of Casio, most think first and foremost about G-Shock, the undisputed flagship of the Japanese brand's timepiece lineup and the model that put Casio, a multinational tech giant known primarily for calculators, digital cameras, and electronic musical keyboards, on the map as a watchmaker. (G-Shock has in recent years become so dominant that it now identifies as its own brand, separate from other Casio-branded watches, with its own distinctive design language and sub-families; we list the most notable G-Shock watches here.) But throughout its relatively short history of watchmaking, which began in 1974, Casio has released other very memorable watches, several of which became not only commercially successful (particularly in the 1980s, the heyday of digital watches) but also pop-culture touchstones to their era. Here we list 20 noteworthy Casio watches and make the case for their classic status; you will find some G-Shocks here, because any list of classic Casio watches would be incomplete without them. But you'll also discover a few modern models from Casio watch series you may be less familiar with, as well as some that you may find familiar from movies and TV. You'll also find that nearly all the watches on the list, arranged in ascending order of price, will cost much less than you might expect. Casio F91W Digital Sport Watch Price: $22.95, Case Size: 38.2mm x 35.2mm, Case Height: 8.5mm, Crystal: Resin glass, Water Resistance: Water resis...
Worn & Wound
One of the things I really enjoy about covering microbrands and small independents is seeing how young brands develop in unexpected ways over time. My first exposure to De Rijke & Co. was through Zach Weiss’s review of their Amalfi 1S back in 2020. At that point, the brand’s calling card was their trick case design that allowed the wearer to easily rotate the dial for a better viewpoint while driving, as well as customized design options so clients could effectively create their own unique version of the watch. This “gentleman driver’s” watch, as they referred to it, remains quite appealing, and the case of course is still a part of their collection. In no way, however, could it have predicted the success the brand would find making watches featuring the “Miffy” character, a staple of Dutch children’s books since the 1950s. Over the last three years, De Rijke & Co. has released several Miffy themed watches that go well beyond simple character dials. The Miffy motif has been used to experiment with bold colors, lume, and different expressions of the moonphase complication. These watches are whimsical, a lot of fun, and quite far removed, in my opinion, from the earlier Amalfi pieces, and it’s fascinating to consider how the brand got to this point. Today, they’ve unveiled what is said to be the final Miffy watch. According to the brand, the new White Ceramic Miffy Moonphase has been in the works for three years. It is, it turns out, quite complicated...
Worn & Wound
We love quartz watches at Worn & Wound for a huge variety of reasons. Very often, a quartz watch is someone’s first watch, the watch that sets them down a path of enthusiasm and collecting that so many of us are familiar with. Quartz watches are often (but not always) an affordable alternative to a mechanical watch that doesn’t need to sacrifice anything in terms of design. Also, the technology is just incredibly cool, and so many great watchmaking minds have contributed to refining it and making it even better over the years. We decided to ask our editorial team members to write a little bit about their favorite quartz watches. Some of these are watches they own personally, some are historic, and others are just fun examples of watches that might not make as much sense with a mechanical movement. Be sure to let us know what your favorite quartz watch is in the comments below. Zach Weiss – Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph Well, this is an easy one for me, as I happen to have it in my collection: the Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph. Where to even begin with this one… I’ll start by explaining why I like it. Long before I was properly afflicted with the watch-collecting-itis, I was simply a teenager in NYC with an appreciation for watches. My dad and I would occasionally go to the Tourneau TimeMachine on 57th Street for fun on the weekends, and for a time, they had a Seiko Kinetic Chronograph on display. It had, as I recall, a special vitrin...
Teddy Baldassarre
We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash. Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the...
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