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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already? Time+Tide
Feb 29, 2020

Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already?

Editor’s note: As we’re sure most of you reading this are already aware, Baselworld 2020 is officially dead. Yes, despite the perplexing decision from officials to say that the world’s biggest watch fair had been “postponed” to the end of January 2021, it has, like so many other trade shows this year, fallen victim to … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition Time+Tide
Cartier edition As you might Feb 27, 2020

Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition

As you might have picked up if you follow me on Instagram (@nick.kenyon), I have a soft spot for design-focused watches, generally on the smaller side of 40mm and especially those that are vintage. As a result, one of my favourite brands is Cartier, thanks to the strength and consistency that has been present in … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches & Wonders (SIHH) 2020 Cancelled Due To Coronavirus, Baselworld Next? Here’s What Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe Thinks Quill & Pad
Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe Thinks Feb 27, 2020

Watches & Wonders (SIHH) 2020 Cancelled Due To Coronavirus, Baselworld Next? Here’s What Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe Thinks

The news broke like a hurricane on the morning of February 27, 2020: Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) has been canceled for 2020. In the words of Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, “The future of the fairs is already in the balance – to cancel them is really bad news for them, and for Baselworld in particular." Read on for more of his opinion.

Coronavirus cancels Watches & Wonders 2020, is Baselworld next? Time+Tide
Citizen Feb 27, 2020

Coronavirus cancels Watches & Wonders 2020, is Baselworld next?

Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH) has been cancelled in an announcement by the FHH overnight, as a result of the growing concerns around the Coronavirus and its spread throughout the world. This comes off the back of both Citizen and Bulova announcing their withdrawal from Baselworld just days ago, and adds Watches & Wonders … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus cancels Watches & Wonders 2020, is Baselworld next? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH Time+Tide
Feb 22, 2020

BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH

While the Coronavirus outbreak certainly offers a number of reasons for the watch industry at large to be concerned, its effects haven’t been severely felt yet. According to recent data from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the first month of 2020 has seen strong watch sales, with a 9.4 per cent increase in … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition Time+Tide
Feb 20, 2020

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition

The world timer complication on a wristwatch has been popular for decades, long before the commercialisation of the jet aircraft, thanks to its clean simplicity and obvious usefulness. The capacity for a watch to tell you the time anywhere in the world, without the need for a highly complicated dial layout or training in pure … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 1 Time+Tide
Rolex Datejust – Part 1 Feb 19, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 1

The clichés applied to these watches are endless: iconic, archetypal, essential … and the list goes on. What can be said about the Rolex Datejust that hasn’t already been said? Quite a bit actually when presented with the opportunity to look at a cross section of the watch’s evolution firsthand. Most Time+Tide readers will know … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Feb 18, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Blue Enamel

Slim, elegantly and typically Breguet in style – the gently off-centre dial echoes asymmetric pocket watches – the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 was originally launched with a guilloche dial, before being given a white, fired enamel dial. And last year Breguet debuted a striking variant with a fully skeletonised movement decorated in a surprisingly elaborate manner. For 2020 Breguet has returned to its traditional look, albeit with a twist: the dial has been transformed into deep blue enamel for a boutique-only edition. Similar to the makeover applied to the time-and-date Classique 5177, the blue dial is grand feu enamel – vitreous enamel set by firing it in an oven at temperatures over 800°C. The dial starts as a disc of solid gold, which is then painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil.  It’s then baked in an oven, and the process repeated several times until the deep blue colour is achieved. The surface is then ground down by hand to give it a mirrored finish, before undergoing a final trip to the oven. The star and lozenge minute track is inspired by the same on vintage pocket watches Then the markings on the dial – including the symbols of the minute track and Breguet numerals – are printed in powdered silver, which gives them a granular, metallic sheen. And faintly etched by laser just above the tourbillon is the Breguet “secret” signature, a feature devised in the 19th century to distinguish genuine Breguet pocket watches from ...

Obituary: Kiu Tai Yu, Chinese Independent Watchmaker SJX Watches
Montblanc Feb 17, 2020

Obituary: Kiu Tai Yu, Chinese Independent Watchmaker

Born in China but having worked in Hong Kong for decades, Kiu Tai Yu was long reputed to have been the first watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in Asia, having premiered his own in 1990. Before that, only watchmakers in the West had ever produced a tourbillon, a device that was then still regarded as the pinnacle of artisanal watchmaking. A year after unveiling his tourbillon, Kiu became the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the association of independent watchmakers that had been established by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese just a few years before. The news of Kiu’s death was first announced by Mr Calabrese on Facebook. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese But it was in 1993 that Kiu debuted his most memorable invention, the Mystery Tourbillon. Equipped with an oscillating balance wheel making one revolution a minute, but seemingly with neither a cage nor bridge. The secret lay in a clear sapphire plate that functioned as the upper bridge, while the cage of the tourbillon was reduced to a fish-shaped platform underneath the balance wheel, a construction that has since been adopted in various forms by brands like Montblanc and Zenith. Not content with a mere Mystery Tourbillon, Kiu subsequently installed the invention in a rectangular form movement, and later even added a jumping hour time display. It’s worth pointing out that every one of Kiu’s tourbillon wristwatches was unique, and ...

Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Our New Darling? Feb 17, 2020

Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling?

Timex has been on a roll since the release of the Marlin a little while back. Since then, the watch world has gone completely nuts over reissues like the Q and vintage-inspired models like the recent M79. Join Mike and Kaz as they run through Timex's greatest hits, analyze the brand's overall strategy, and consider adding Timex models to their own personal collections.

RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman Feb 15, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman

Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I put my own money behind the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M It Feb 14, 2020

Why I put my own money behind the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

It was during a particularly cold snap in January that I decided to get off the couch and out of the house. I was restless. The internet had been bombarding me with watch photos, opinions, reviews and advertising. I’m quite sure the only Google algorithm pointed at me is for watches. On that frigid January … ContinuedThe post Why I put my own money behind the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO SJX Watches
Hamilton According Feb 13, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO

Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...

Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020 Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020

The gauntlet has well and truly been thrown down on the polished concrete floors of Time+Tide’s headquarters in this week’s office row, as a truculent James Robinson asseverated that pocket watches in 2020 are about as useful as a solar powered watch in a sensory deprivation tank … that is to say, completely pointless. Deputy … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex GMT Master 2 – What’s Changed?116710BLNR vs 126710BLNR WatchAdvice
Rolex GMT Master 2 – Feb 10, 2020

Rolex GMT Master 2 – What’s Changed?116710BLNR vs 126710BLNR

In 2019, the well renowned GMT Master II, reference 116710BLNR also known as ‘Batman’ was replaced by the new 126710BLNR model.  The original 116710BLNR grabbed attention as soon as it was released at Baselworld in 2013. The high level of interest in this watch can largely be attributed to its bi-colour ceramic bezel. This model has been and still is a sought-after model that you may be wondering why Rolex have released a renewed model.  Rolex have made some thoughtful changes to the older 116710 BLNR model to ensure that it is up to date technologically and aesthetically.  Bracelet The biggest and the most obvious difference is the bracelet. The oyster bracelet on Ref 116710 BLNR has broad and flat three-piece links with brushed outer links and polished centre links. It’s the most universal bracelet in the oyster collection and was actually introduced in 1930s. This oyster bracelet has a classy yet sporty appearance. The renewed 126710BLNR model has a five-piece link jubilee bracelet which also has brushed outer links and polished centre links. It is visually striking due to the way it shines. It also stands out well when compared with the previous oyster bracelet. Even though the bracelets look different, they’re both made from Oyster steel. Oyster steel is specifically developed by Rolex, it belongs to the 904L steel family which is commonly used in high-technology and in the aerospace and chemical industries. This type of steel is extremely resistant, has an...

“As swimmers, everything we do revolves around time” Olympic champ Kyle Chalmers teams up with TAG Heuer Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Feb 10, 2020

“As swimmers, everything we do revolves around time” Olympic champ Kyle Chalmers teams up with TAG Heuer

The worst brand associations feel like they’ve been hatched in drunken brainstorms at the end of a very long day. There seems zero reason to attach the celebrity to the product, beyond a marketing budget that urgently needs to be spent. Thankfully, TAG Heuer’s decision to partner up with Kyle Chalmers isn’t like that at … ContinuedThe post “As swimmers, everything we do revolves around time” Olympic champ Kyle Chalmers teams up with TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin are removing Feb 9, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches

Towards the end of last year I was fortunate enough to experience the Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs watches in the metal. They are a shining example of something that many watch manufacturers are looking to execute - exceptional pre-owned pieces sold by the manufacturer. The program has been running for a number of years now, where … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Timor Introduces the Heritage Field ‘WWW’ Remake SJX Watches
Feb 5, 2020

Timor Introduces the Heritage Field ‘WWW’ Remake

Timor, best known as one of the 12 watch brands that supplied wristwatches to the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) during the Second World War, is making a comeback with the Heritage Field, a faithful remake of its most famous timepiece that’ll be offered on Kickstarter in mid February. Widely known as WWW, short for “Watches Wristlet Waterproof”, the British army-issue watches were dependable, no-nonsense instruments that have been reproduced by other revived brands, but the Timor remake is probably the closest to the original. The WWW Now being brought back to life by British entrepreneur Benjamin Briggs, Timor was originally a trademark of J. Bernheim & Co. of La Chaux-de-Fonds, which like many other small- and medium-sized watch brands of the time, assembled cases and movements produced by specialist suppliers and sold watches under its own brand name. The Timor WWW, for instance, was equipped with the cal. 6060, an AS 1203 made by A. Schild, once one of Switzerland’s leading movement makers. The remake (left) and an original WWW But like much of the Swiss watch industry, Timor went bust during the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s. Now it has returned, but Timor is not alone. With the values of vintage WWW watches having risen to a level where remakes are viable – it is hard to sell a reproduction for more than the original – Timor is not the only resurrected brand making a WWW. Timor’s revival follows that of British brand Vertex, another supplier of the WWW...

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Rolex vs Omega Feb 4, 2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster

Rolex vs. Omega is an age-old debate that has seemingly raged since time immemorial in the horological community. However, the watches in question have always been the Rolex Submariner vying against the Omega Seamaster, or the Rolex Daytona vs. the Omega Speedmaster. And while the arguments for and against these aforementioned watches could go on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud Time+Tide
Breguet watches Feb 3, 2020

3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud

Breguet had a stellar year in 2019 as they offered a host of new watches, some of which delivered sportiness, and others that brought a sense of refined classicism. While Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Neuchâtel-born founder of the maison, might have been more comfortable with some of the more traditional pieces in the collection, here are … ContinuedThe post 3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week Time+Tide
Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Feb 3, 2020

Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week

Though it may have been a few weeks ago, such was the extent of Hublot’s 2020 novelties unveiled at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week that it’s still got the horological hemisphere talking. For a start, the big talking point was that the Swiss watchmaker’s iconic Big Bang was unveiled on an all-new integrated bracelet, and thus, … ContinuedThe post Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 with “In-House” Movement SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Feb 3, 2020

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 with “In-House” Movement

Unveiled in 1998, the original IWC Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714 had a surprisingly long life, managing to be a bestseller for 22 years – and a lucrative franchise for IWC – thanks to its distinctive yet classical styling and relatively affordable price. Now it has finally been replaced by the new Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716 that looks almost identical, but is powered by a proprietary movement – and only a little bit more expensive. The ref. 3716 actually made its debut two years ago as a 150th anniversary limited edition, available only with a glossy, lacquered dial in white or blue. Now the ref. 3716 joins the regular collection, with a steel or 18k rose gold case, as well as all of the dial variants that were offered for the outgoing ref. 3714. That means the quintessential Portugieser Chronograph in steel matched a silver dial, gold numerals and gold hands is still available. The new Portugieser Chronograph is slightly larger than the original, but the differences are so slight that they are not apparent at all. The new model is 41 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm high, compared to 40.9 mm by 12.6 mm for the original. The new movement, and new price The increase in size is due to the cal. 69355, which replaces the cal. 79350 (derived from the Valjoux 7750) inside the original Portugieser Chronograph. The cal. 69355 is an in-house movement that’s part of the 69000 family. Amongst the upgrades are the column wheel, as well as the escape wheel and pallet for...

‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction results: Over $200K raised! Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2020

‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction results: Over $200K raised!

We’re very proud to announce that the ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction in aid of the Australian bushfire crisis has raised more than $200,000 Australian dollars, with 100 per cent of the funds going directly to the charities that need it most. This has been a monumental effort from everyone involved and we’re incredibly … ContinuedThe post ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction results: Over $200K raised! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.