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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Miroir Image: Berneron Inverts the Mirage SJX Watches
Montblanc Unveiled Secret” 2 days ago

Miroir Image: Berneron Inverts the Mirage

Berneron is following the release of its most complicated model with its simplest: the Mirage Miroir. An inverted variant of the popular Mirage 38, the Miroir flips the script to put the golden calibre on display in lieu of a traditional dial. Initial thoughts I’ve been looking forward to the launch of the Miroir since seeing the 3D-printed plastic prototype earlier this year. The inverted format is not especially new, but the Miroir is probably hitting the trend in stride. Beyond the popularity of the mirrored concept itself, Berneron’s house style for movement finishing suits being put on display. Unfortunately, the inverted format precludes a dial. This isn’t a critique of the Miroir as much as it is a weakness shared across the category. Of course, watches like this exist because for many collectors, the opportunity to see the movement — which in this case offers a rich palette of materials and textures — is preferable to looking at a dial. Rather than expose the relatively uninteresting dial side of the main plate, Berneron has opted for a closed case back, similar to the Montblanc “Unveiled Secret”. This choice gives the compact watch surprising heft and a low-profile feel on the wrist. The Miroir also introduces the brand’s first bracelet, which embodies the same detail-oriented approach to construction that Berneron puts into its watches. I tried on an early example of the bracelet back in April, and even then the quality was obvious — the alterna...

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph, now in Prussian Blue Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph 2 days ago

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph, now in Prussian Blue

A new version of the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph joins Chopard’s high-end collection, created as a numbered limited edition of 25 pieces. While the model retains the classical proportions and specifications of the green 2023 model, this new reference is distinguished by a rich Prussian Blue dial, retaining the L.U.C 03.07-L calibre with exceptional finishing […]

First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video) Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon 2 days ago

First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video)

Few brands are as intertwined with motorsports as TAG Heuer. Since the early days of the brand, then only known as Heuer, it has always had close ties with racing, predominantly thanks to its excellent mechanical stopwatches. The racing DNA resonates well within multiple collections, such as the iconic Carrera and Monaco. The Monza, however, […]

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Monochrome
Chopard Revives 2 days ago

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

In the mid-1990s, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele embarked on an ambitious project to elevate Chopard’s watchmaking credentials by establishing an independent manufacturing facility in Fleurier – and succeeded. Following the development of the acclaimed ultra-thin automatic calibre 96.01-L, the manufacture released its first watch in 1997. Bearing the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard,  the L.U.C 1860 launched […]

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium Monochrome
Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele 2 days ago

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium

Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele resurrected the name Ferdinand Berthoud in 2015. An eminent Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his precision marine chronometers, Ferdinand Berthoud was given a second lease of life in Scheufele’s hands as an elite haute horlogerie brand that perpetuates the founder’s legacy of chronometric […]

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm 2 days ago

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial

I bet that, if given a choice, Murphy Cooper would wear a different watch. In Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar (2014), “Murph” wears a black-dial watch with vintage elements, like cathedral hands, and probably a 42mm case. This gift from her father is pretty similar to the 2019 commercial release. A 38mm watch would fit her wrist […] Visit Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial to read the full article.

First Look - The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding, now with a Mechanical Movement Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding now 2 days ago

First Look - The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding, now with a Mechanical Movement

Frederique Constant launched its Classics Moneta Moonphase in 2024, a compact and stylish dress watch with a distinctive retro-inspired coin-edge bezel.  With a diameter of just 37mm and a slim height of 7.65mm, the watch was enthusiastically received, but because it is powered by a quartz movement, we did not cover it on MONOCHROME. However, […]

Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics Fratello
2 days ago

Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re both back in our respective homes before traveling again. Our show is about modern watches destined to become classics. Now, before you accuse us of focusing on money, erase those thoughts! We don’t care about value. No, we are talking about watches that […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics to read the full article.

First Look - The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Gets a Textured Blue Makeover Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm 2 days ago

First Look - The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Gets a Textured Blue Makeover

Hamilton’s Murph watch got its popularity almost entirely from its role in Christopher Nolan’s 2014 film Interstellar. The watch created for the film returned as a production model in 2019, first in 42mm, before Hamilton introduced a smaller 38mm version in 2022. This 38mm model has carried different styles, from the original black dial to […]

Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References Fratello
Seiko Expands 2 days ago

Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References

The Seiko Speedtimer has relatively quickly grown into a full collection of watches inspired by Seiko’s first automatic chronographs from the late ’60s and early ’70s. What began as a line of chronographs in 2021 has expanded into a broader collection of sports watches. Last year, Seiko introduced a series of three-handers that took the […] Visit Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References to read the full article.

Dispatch: Climbing High With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal 2 days ago

Dispatch: Climbing High With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points

Somewhere high over the cinematically unforgiving terrain of southern Utah, I cling awkwardly to a metal rung neatly stapled into a slab of near-vertical Navajo sandstone. Using a free hand, I adjust a pair of sliding metal tethers to enable my climb. These are the lifelines that will hopefully keep me alive should my grip or footing fail. Being no fan of heights, I wonder how much longer this will last as I notice the route of rungs extending straight up and out of sight along the cutting topography of the ridgeline. Instinctively, I glance at my wrist to mark the time. I'm met with yet another novel, but very real, concern – I'm wearing someone else's $40,000 watch. I'm in Canyon Point, Utah, not far from the northern border of Arizona, for an event held at Amangiri, one of the finest hotels in the world. The exclusive event celebrates Vacheron Constantin's latest entry into its sportiest category: the Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points. But I am an interloper among the assembled guests, many of whom are among the brand's most notable North American collectors. While I'm no stranger to the glitz, glamour, and all-you-can-eat shrimp of watch industry press events, this is something altogether different; this is a client event. While your average press trip is often quite nice, our usual hands-on time with a given new model is often limited to an hour or so in a boardroom in some Geneva-based HQ or in a meeting space at a brand's manufacture in Le Locle or elsewhere in S...

Review: the DWC Terra Worn & Wound
2 days ago

Review: the DWC Terra

What happens when a watch goes viral? Well, besides the obvious – everyone sees them, everyone buys them, second hand prices go crazy – you know the deal. That’s exactly what happened with the DWC Terra – a unique take on the field watch by the small Indian brand, Delhi Watch Co. Military-inspired field watches out there have their charm, but they all tend to blend in. For good reason too – they’re built to a military specification that calls out for case size, dial markings, and beyond — generally sticking to a formula that makes sense when it needs to be as standard as a uniform. That’s where the DWC Terra takes a huge turn. It’s a field watch, but looks more like something that would be at home on the wrist of one of the deep space truckers in Alien than it does something that’d be worn down here on Earth. They stick to the classic field watch simplicity, but the package represents something new that we’ve never seen before in the watch world. Let’s take a closer look at this interesting, affordable, and unique take on the field watch. In case you missed it, this watch has a pretty fair amount of hype going around it. Sold out in a flash with Ticketmaster-style online queues that were thousands long, the Terra made a pretty big impact when it hit the market. DWC is short for Delhi Watch Company — a small brand based out of Delhi, India that focuses on watches with unique designs at a reasonable price point. The Terra hits both of those with eas...

Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas Hodinkee
Patek Philippe s Quintessential Calatravas 3 days ago

Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas

In this week's edition of our ongoing book review column, I thought it was a good time to highlight a reference that's been sitting on my shelf for a while but was sadly out of stock by the time it arrived at my place two years ago. Well, luckily for us, John Nagayama's masterful Patek Philippe tome, simply called "96," has been reprinted, and out of the 450 copies released for sale just a few weeks ago, there are still a couple left. John Nagayama, at his old office in Tokyo, Japan. John Nagayama, known as @johnbehalf on Instagram, is the undisputed king of the reference 96. That's saying something. The long-lived, miniature (by today's standards) time-only Patek Philippe has become the framework and measuring stick for basically every dress watch that's come since, and long-time collectors have never turned a blind eye to it. But recent interest, driven by Mike Nouveau over on TikTok in particular, and acceptance of a 30.5mm watch has put it back on the map. But Japan, where Nagayama is based, became the Mecca for small watches and 96 obsessives. Nagayama has probably forgotten more than nearly anyone will ever know about time-only Patek. And he doesn't forget hardly anything. If you browse his site, you'll see some super esoteric stuff. While writing this, his homepage featured one of the 10 known ref. 433, this one in platinum and rose, with an amazing three-color dial. His personal collection (from which he pulled four amazing watches for a past story we did in Japan)...

First Look - O&HoraPictor; Atelier Launches the New Duet Collection, an Attainable Take on Grand Feu Enamel Monochrome
3 days ago

First Look - O&HoraPictor; Atelier Launches the New Duet Collection, an Attainable Take on Grand Feu Enamel

Enamel watches are nothing new, of course, but it is always interesting to discover a young independent brand approaching this centuries-old craft with a new take. O&HoraPictor; was founded only recently, in 2024; the brand grew out of founder Eriks’s long-standing exploration of enamel, including the establishment of his own enamel atelier in 2017. Today, […]

Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight Fratello
3 days ago

Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight

Since 2020, Gagà Laboratorio has produced distinctive wristwatches with Italian flair and Swiss precision. The company’s catalog comprises two model lines, the Labormatic and the Aqualab. Both are progressively designed and appear to be the types of pieces that could cost as much as a high-end sports car. However, that couldn’t be further from the […] Visit Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight to read the full article.

A Colorful Celebration Of Life: The IFL Watches × Out Of Order Shaker Happy Hour Fratello
3 days ago

A Colorful Celebration Of Life: The IFL Watches × Out Of Order Shaker Happy Hour

IFL Watches keeps surprising us with fun, colorful watches that celebrate culture, art, and life in general. For its newest release, IFLW celebrates life with Italian brand Out of Order. OOO is known for creating watches with a distinctive, worn appearance. Now, for their first collaboration, the two brands created the special Shaker Happy Hour, […] Visit A Colorful Celebration Of Life: The IFL Watches × Out Of Order Shaker Happy Hour to read the full article.

Introducing - The Stowa Chrono WRC Stage 1, an Automatic Chronograph for the World Rally Championship Monochrome
Stowa 3 days ago

Introducing - The Stowa Chrono WRC Stage 1, an Automatic Chronograph for the World Rally Championship

Following the recent introduction of the Flieger Verus Black Forest WRC, presented during the WRC Delfi Rally Estonia 2026, Stowa, the Official WRC Timekeeper & Watch Partner, moves from the compact pilot’s watch format to a considerably larger, purpose-built automatic chronograph, available in steel or a black-coated version. The new Stowa Chrono WRC Stage 1 […]

An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose 3 days ago

An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue

Parmigiani Fleurier introduces a new 30-piece limited edition Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue. It builds upon the other four Tonda PF Skeleton configurations — Rose Gold Graphite, Steel Platinum Graphite, Platinum Milano Blue, and Steel Platinum Slate Green. Although this might seem like another version of the same thing, those who know and […] Visit An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Monochrome
Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Piaget 3 days ago

Introducing - The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

Piaget has long built its watchmaking reputation on a combination of ultra-thin movements and decorative techniques. Founded in 1874 by Georges-Édouard Piaget in La Côte-aux-Fées, the Maison developed its expertise in high-precision movements before making ultra-thin mechanical calibres one of its defining specialities. This expertise has also extended to major complications, including the tourbillon, chronograph, […]

Get It On And Bang A Gong With The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Fratello
Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Let’s 3 days ago

Get It On And Bang A Gong With The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

Let’s put the volume that the new Piaget Polo Minute Repeater produces into perspective. Most traditional repeater watches don’t exceed 60 decibels (dB). They make a sound you can compare to a whispered conversation. Now, normal conversation averages around 60–65 dB, so when a minute repeater chimes at 64, you will hear it without holding […] Visit Get It On And Bang A Gong With The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater to read the full article.

Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches Fratello
Ming 3 days ago

Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches

With the Italian summer coming to an end, HTD is just in time to grace us with new colors for its Aquatìc divers for one last jump into the warm Mediterranean waters. But before jumping in, you first have to choose from the seven new variations joining the lineup. Don’t worry, though; it’s not as […] Visit Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches to read the full article.

Insight: The Keyless Works SJX Watches
Czapek was going sour 3 days ago

Insight: The Keyless Works

Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...

The Other Seiko 6105 “Willard” Story Fratello
Seiko 6105 “Willard” Story Most 4 days ago

The Other Seiko 6105 “Willard” Story

Most people who know the Seiko 6105 know it as the “Captain Willard,” nicknamed for the character Martin Sheen played in Apocalypse Now. That well-told story is worth telling indeed. But there is a second story featuring the same watch, and it has nothing to do with Hollywood. It belongs to a Hawaiian lifeguard and […] Visit The Other Seiko 6105 “Willard” Story to read the full article.