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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Today Jun 10, 2025

Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster

Today on Fratello, we’re sharing the story of how two adventurers crossed Antarctica on foot in 1989. One of those men, Reinhold Messner, wore an Omega Speedmaster on his wrist during the journey. Traversing a vast expanse of ice, snow, and howling winds is no small feat. Antarctica is one of the starkest landscapes on […] Visit Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster to read the full article.

Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Datejust Jun 10, 2025

Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000

Vintage watches remain ever popular in the watch collector’s journey. There are serious collectors who remain focused on buying only vintage. Since the pandemic, my inbox has been flooded with auction houses and vintage dealers trying to one-up each other by selling the most curated “once in a lifetime” or most expensive vintage piece. I have nothing against the sellers and buyers, especially if they can vouch for the authenticity and pay for the repairs, they deserve my appreciation. Personally, I am apprehensive of owning vintage watches at my current point of collecting. I owned a few vintage watches in my early days as a collector, most of them were bargain finds on eBay that eventually stopped working or I ended up trading, except for one expensive Rolex Datejust that had to be serviced. Ultimately, service on the Datejust was as expensive as the watch, including Rolex replacing the dial to a different color which I hated and ended up selling for a loss. I know it was a rookie mistake, but that was the end of vintage watches for me. After that experience, I stuck to buying either new watches from retailers or pre-owned watches from other collectors. As it happened, my work took me to Germany often, and there I discovered a whole new world of neo-vintage watches. Before I get deeper into what specific “affordable” neo-vintage watches a couple of my collector friends and I recommend, I should briefly define what neo-vintage watches are and why they are easier ...

Chopard Races Ahead With Two Fresh Mille Miglia Releases Fratello
Chopard Races Ahead Jun 10, 2025

Chopard Races Ahead With Two Fresh Mille Miglia Releases

This year, Chopard celebrates 38 years as the official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia race, in which historic cars will race throughout Italy from June 17th through the 21st. To mark the occasion, the brand will release two limited-edition watches available only in Chopard boutiques. Let’s take a closer look at these two highly different […] Visit Chopard Races Ahead With Two Fresh Mille Miglia Releases to read the full article.

Introducing - Glashütte Original Releases a Quartet of New Serenade Luna models Monochrome
Glashütte Original Releases Jun 10, 2025

Introducing - Glashütte Original Releases a Quartet of New Serenade Luna models

The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a smaller version of the men’s model, the Lady Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Last year, the Lady Serenade was given a moonlight serenade with the incorporation of a moon phase display and […]

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Jun 9, 2025

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075

The Breguet Type XX, originally produced for France’s military pilots in the 1950s, is one of the most significant and influential watches with aviation ties, and represents the historical and, to many watch enthusiasts, largely unknown link between the Breguet family’s two areas of multigenerational savoir faire: watchmaking and aeronautical technology. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075, unveiled last week as part of Montres Breguet’s ongoing celebration of its 250th anniversary, stylishly pays tribute to this shared history in two distinctive iterations based on one of the very first civilian-marketed models. Origin of the Type XX A bit of history and background: Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous watchmaking maison, is known to many of us as one of the world’s most important watchmaking pioneers, whose many accomplishments include the invention of the tourbillon, keyless winding of watch movements, and the ubiquitous Breguet hands. Several generations of his family continued the horological tradition, but one great grandson, Louis-Charles Breguet, found another calling, in the burgeoning field of manned flight, founding Breguet Aviation in 1911. The company, today a part of Dassault Aviation, developed cutting-edge aircraft for the military units of Louis’ native France, including the famed Breguet 19 bomber used during World War I. Despite the ownership change in the watch business, both branches of the Breguet families kept close ties both to e...

WatchIt! Watch Fair Is Returning This Month Fratello
Ming Jun 8, 2025

WatchIt! Watch Fair Is Returning This Month

Coming this month is the return of WatchIt! Watch Fair presented by 12&60. WatchIt! is a free one-day event where you can view, handle, talk, and buy watches in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. This gathering for enthusiastic watch lovers and like-minded individuals boasts some of the best of what Britain and the world offer. […] Visit WatchIt! Watch Fair Is Returning This Month to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Jun 8, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we chose two newer versions of watches that we pitted against each other back in 2022 and 2023. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT came out last year and is the smaller and slimmer version of […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 7, 2025

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back

Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Bulova s MIL-SHIPS Went from Jun 7, 2025

How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf

In the world of military-issued watches, some models are legendary. Others are ghost stories-rare prototypes whispered about among collectors, their existence confirmed only through archival fragments or the occasional sighting in the wild. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 falls somewhere between the two, and for the first time in decades, one of the few surviving examples is surfacing in public-on the block at Sotheby’s, no less. A Mission-Critical Beginning To understand why this watch matters, you need to rewind to 1955. Amid Cold War tensions and escalating naval operations, the U.S. Navy sought a robust dive watch for its elite underwater teams-specifically, the Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) and Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units, the forebears of modern Navy SEALs. The specifications they drafted, known as MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, called for something no commercial watch at the time quite delivered: water resistance beyond 400 feet, excellent night visibility, a highly legible dial, and a locking, unidirectional bezel. The post How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf appeared first on Worn & Wound.

My Story of Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Day-Date 36 in Platinum with “Glacier Blue Wave Arabic Dial”: a Caveat Emptor Scare but a Happy Ending Quill & Pad
Rolex Day-Date 36 Jun 7, 2025

My Story of Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Day-Date 36 in Platinum with “Glacier Blue Wave Arabic Dial”: a Caveat Emptor Scare but a Happy Ending

Niclas has arranged to meet the seller of a platinum Rolex Day-Date at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. If all goes well, the watch transaction should be completed within an hour the he would catch the next flightto Stockholm. What makes him nervous is that the deal is to be done in cryptocurrency. But that's not what went wrong.

eBay Finds: A Funky Tissot in Great Condition, a Seiko 5 on a Bracelet, and a Pair of Vintage Zodiacs Worn & Wound
Longines Here we have Jun 6, 2025

eBay Finds: A Funky Tissot in Great Condition, a Seiko 5 on a Bracelet, and a Pair of Vintage Zodiacs

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion Vintage Longines Here we have a beautiful vintage Longines Jamboree. This is a great casual sporty dress watch, well suited for a day on the town or with a suit at a nice dinner. The 35mm steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges, and perfectly preserved original etching on the caseback. Nice slim lugs too. The silver dial looks clean, with slim applied steel markers and nice steel sword hands. No date window to mess with the soothing symmetry. The crown is original and signed with the Longines logo as it should be. The Longines caliber 230 manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Fantastic watch from a well respected manufacture that you don’t see too often. View auction here Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf  Next up is a classic and highly sought-after vintage diver, a second generation Zodiac Sea Wolf. This version has the gray acrylic bezel insert, which is in excellent condition, with only one small crack near the 20 minute mark. The steel case (around 35mm if memory serves) is unpolished with nice edges. The original crown is signed with the Zodiac crosshair logo as it should be. The original black dial is superb, with nice lume filled triangle markers at 12, 6 and ...

12 Royal Oak Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet s inarguably iconic Royal Jun 6, 2025

12 Royal Oak Alternatives For Every Budget

So, you love Audemars Piguet’s inarguably iconic Royal Oak, but you are looking for some Royal Oak alternatives that capture the vibe of the watch at a price point that won’t give you night sweats? You and I, my friend, are in the same boat, chugging along the turbulent sea that is modern watch pricing. Recently, it seems that I have set out on a personal renegade mission to target some of the most well-known watch designs of all time, and offer a sampling platter of alternatives that go down a little easier, with price tags that won’t keep you up at night questioning how yourself and your family will ever recover from your watch collecting hobby. Clearly, my next target is the Royal Oak, which just so happens to be one of my favorite watches of all time.  For anyone new here, the rules of the road are as follows: below, I will offer up some watches at various price points, from the extremely affordable (under $200, perhaps) watch alternatives from various brands as bounty. These picks will range from blatant copycats (or homages to the Royal Oak, if you prefer) to other, more wild-card picks that, in my point of view, demonstrate a key ingredient of the design at hand, though it might be less obvious at first glance. In the Royal Oak alternatives recipe, those key ingredients are an integrated bracelet construction (or the appearance of one, with the help of a quick-release strap mechanism), bezels with complex geometry, and an overall feeling of sportiness. Of cou...

Rolex Nicknames Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Nicknames Explained When it Jun 5, 2025

Rolex Nicknames Explained

When it comes to Rolex, nicknames for its watches are almost as plentiful as the watches themselves – and often so esoteric that even avid watch enthusiasts can be perplexed by them. Can you tell a Kermit from a Hulk, for example? Or a John Player from a John Mayer? And would you be able to identify a Thunderbird or a Texano in the rare chance you’d come across one these days? Rolex’s legions of fans have been bestowing colorful and often esoteric nicknames on its most noteworthy watches for decades, and there are more of them than you probably even realize. Here’s a mostly alphabetical primer on the top 20 Rolex nicknames you’re likely to hear (and maybe even use) regularly in today’s buzzing watch-enthusiast community.  Batman GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR Debuting in 2013, this Rolex GMT-Master II reference garnered the nickname “Batman” for its first-of-its-kind bicolor Cerachrom bezel in shades of blue and black, which undoubtedly brought to mind for many enthusiasts the signature colors of DC Comics’ dark-garbed guardian of Gotham City. This “Batman” moniker is now applied primarily to the model on the three-link Oyster bracelet.  Batgirl GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR As alluded to directly above, the “Batgirl” name has been applied to the Ref. 126710BLNR of the aforementioned GMT-Master II, introduced in 2019, which differs from the original “Batman” only in its choice of a Jubilee bracelet rather than an Oyster. Is one more masculine...

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas Fratello
Rolex Daytonas Rolex only makes Jun 5, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas

Rolex only makes one chronograph, and it’s called the Daytona. This has been a statement of fact since the first model bearing the name was created in 1963. Okay, fine; there’s one notable exception, the Yacht-Master II. But we’ll leave that as a topic for another day. Today on Fratello Talks, it’s all about our […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas to read the full article.