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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko s New Prospex SPB481 Oct 27, 2024

Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches

Seiko has an enduring lineup of "greatest hits" dive watches-from the rugged Turtle and Tuna to the angular Samurai. Yet with the release of the new Seiko Prospex models (SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485), Seiko introduces an eye-catching design that’s distinctly different from anything we’ve seen in its catalog, while still staying true to its tool-watch roots. I'm still not sure how I feel about these but I like that Seiko took a significant design leap with these new divers.

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer believes “consumer interest Oct 23, 2024

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz”

If interesting design now trumps mechanical innovation in watchmaking, quartz technology like TAG Heuer's Solargraph has an important edge, Biebuyck explains.The post Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab SJX Watches
Massena Lab Continuing Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

First Look – Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium Monochrome
Hamilton teams up Oct 17, 2024

First Look – Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium

Hamilton is well known for its American military-inspired Khaki Field watches, which are among the best values in the business. Titanium variants are nothing new to the expansive series, but a collaboration with New York design house Engineered Garments brings a small(ish), all-titanium automatic that’s stripped to the essentials. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel or […]

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Oct 14, 2024

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial

In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years Oct 10, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition

Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...

No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy Fratello
Oct 9, 2024

No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy

Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn’t cut it. Luckily, the “Age of Alternatives” seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years […] Visit No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy to read the full article.

Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time Fratello
Czapek Unveils Oct 7, 2024

Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time

Whenever Czapek announces a new Antarctique, I am all ears. The brand’s take on a modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a touch of ’70s flair is one of my favorite models in this genre. The design, the movement, and the craftsmanship that goes into creating these watches make them stand out immediately. […] Visit Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Funky 70s Hamilton, a Genuinely Rare Casio Calculator Watch, and a Seiko Bullhead Chrono Worn & Wound
Hamilton Oct 4, 2024

eBay Finds: A Funky 70s Hamilton, a Genuinely Rare Casio Calculator Watch, and a Seiko Bullhead Chrono

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! New Old Stock Royce Here is a nice little vintage Royce that looks to be New Old Stock. The unpolished 34mm stainless steel case has a pleasing rounded design with really nice fancy lugs that feature solid attached bars. As such, you’ll need a nato strap or one that is suited for welded strap bars. The salmon colored dial looks brand new (as it should), with stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9. It has slim leaf hands, with a stylish sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The watch comes with the original Royce hangtag, which is a nice touch. Seller states the watch runs, but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko Bullhead 6138-0049  The Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead is a great beast of a 1970’s knuckle dragger, but you just have to love this watch. Seiko made two versions, the black and blue, and the brown and gold. This brown and gold dialed version personifies the 1970’s look if you ask me. The huge steel case shows some wear but is unpolished and still shows the original brushed finish and sharp edges. The dial looks original and is in fantastic shape, same with the nicely lume filled hour and minute hands. These are called “Bullhead” because of the 12 o’clock location...

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum Worn & Wound
Nomos Unveils Oct 4, 2024

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum

I attended the 5th year of Nomos’s annual forum this week, and even though the theme was about design and colors, it was the new manual winding movement that received the most attention.  As a seasoned writer who has closely followed Nomos’s trajectory, I often find myself anticipating the brand’s future moves. However, even with my extensive experience, the unveiling of the Tangente 2date ($2,760-$3,020) caught me off guard. I will be very open about what resonated with me, and what left me puzzled. Let’s begin with the movement itself. The DUW 4601 is a new manual winding caliber with a slim height of 2.8mm, and 52 hours of power reserve. Speaking with Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at Nomos, I learned that the previous manual winding caliber, DUW 4101, had the same height with a normal date complication, 42 hours of power reserve, and not the nice finishing we see on the new 4601. Both have the Swing System, the proprietary escapement developed by Nomos. In summary, the new movement delivers extra power reserve, better finishing, and has an additional date complication while still remaining the same height as the previous movement – that’s because the patented date wheel is integrated into the mainplate. Another significant technical advancement in the 4601 caliber is the quick set date mechanism. You can easily jump forward with the crown in the second position.  When I saw the standalone movement with Mirko, my first impression was the sli...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Oct 3, 2024

Exploring and Photographing Art Deco Gems in Los Angeles with March LA.B’s New AM2 GMT

Los Angeles, California instantly conjures images of sea, sun, and starlets. However L.A. is also a treasure trove of architectural gems, many of which have become icons of both film, design, and culture. Many of these buildings were either designed during or heavily influenced by the Art Deco movement of the 1920s and ‘30s. March LA.B is a French watch company that’s deeply inspired by the design cues emanating from Southern California in the early 20th century-specifically in Los Angeles-hence the “LA” embedded within their name. Their watch design nods to the great architectural icons built during this booming area oozing with style, sophistication, and a certain je ne sais quoi. We took March LA.B’s newest model, the AM2 GMT, along for the ride while photographing three of L.A.’s most iconic Art Deco architectural gems, the Los Angeles Central Library, the CalEdison Building, and the Griffith Observatory. Coming all the way from Biarritz, France (a.k.a. the B in their name), the AM2 GMT was created to be an ideal companion for both cross-continental travel and curated urban exploration. The post Exploring and Photographing Art Deco Gems in Los Angeles with March LA.B’s New AM2 GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.

New: Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon Deployant
Stowa Sep 28, 2024

New: Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon

The Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon is a timepiece that stands out in the crowded market of pilot watches. It is part of Stowa's modern Verus collection and features a 40 mm ‘Black Forest’ case, a nod to the region where the company is based. The design is inspired by the Blautopf in Baden-Württemberg, known for its dark woods and strikingly blue waters, which is reflected in the watch's unique dial design.

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Sep 27, 2024

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review

Frederique Constant takes a consistent, evolutionary approach to the design language used in its Classic collection. Sometimes those evolutionary leaps are larger than others. This is certainly the case with two additions to the collection released earlier this year: the Manufacture Classic Date, and Classic Moonphase Date, which have undergone a series of both small and large changes that represent a marked maturity for the brand. The new watches will find themselves squarely in front of a new audience as a result, and bring a welcome set of options in the often neglected formal genre at a sub-$5,000 price point. In hand and on wrist, these watches bring a surprising level of sophistication thanks to a keen attention to detail. If this isn’t a brand you’ve taken seriously in the past, it might be time for a second look.  In an era dominated by sports watches and so-called GADA watches, it’s easy to forget just how essential a dedicated clean, classical, formal watch can be. They are easy watches to overlook, as their beauty lies in the small details rather than big, eye -catching flourishes, but with a little patience, these watches can be just as compelling as anything else out there. If the brand respects the process, that is. With minimal complications, scales, and bezels to work with, the design and execution of the few details that are present are paramount to evoking the necessary emotions. There is nothing to hide behind here. The odd shape or finish of an h...

First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection Monochrome
Certina Adds Sep 27, 2024

First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection

Last year, Certina ventured into the popular 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet sports watch category. In this space, fellow Swatch Group brand Tissot has made waves with its highly successful and accessible PRX series. While the 2023 Certina DS-7 Powermatic 80 models offer a simple time-and-date functionality, they bring a more contemporary, slimmer, and less angular design, setting […]

Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm SJX Watches
Longines Sep 26, 2024

Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm

Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...

Fratello Talks: Ressence - With Founder And CEO Benoît Mintiens Fratello
Ressence Sep 26, 2024

Fratello Talks: Ressence - With Founder And CEO Benoît Mintiens

Welcome to this latest installment of Fratello Talks. Today, we are happy to be joined by special guest Benoît Mintiens, the founder and CEO of the avant-garde Belgian watch brand Ressence. In this long-form episode, we learn about Benoît’s origins as an industrial design consultant, how he transitioned into the watch world, and the philosophy […] Visit Fratello Talks: Ressence - With Founder And CEO Benoît Mintiens to read the full article.

Ikepod and Ace Jewelers Introduce a New Four-Way Megapod Collaboration Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

Ikepod and Ace Jewelers Introduce a New Four-Way Megapod Collaboration

Not since the Beatles have four individuals teamed up to create something greater than the sum of its parts. While this might be just a tad hyperbolic, the new This Is Our Time Megapod watch in a cross-collaboration between Amstersdam’s Ace Jewelers, Ikepod, Laser 3.14 (an Amsterdam based street artist), and ABC (the multi-disciplinary design studio) is something to pay attention to.  It’s not often that so many chefs find themselves in one kitchen – usually, broad collaborations only end in a Frankenstein product of sorts with each brand vying for a spotlight – but that doesn’t seem to be the case here with this particular reference. In fact, the four individual voices in this watch’s design all appear in conversation with one another instead of a shouting match to see who can be noticed first, with Marc Newson’s Ikepod design language tying everything together. Because of this, the This Is Our Time Megapod is a watch that is not only a fun release, but a great success story for other multi-party collabs to look at as inspiration.  Okay, enough mixing metaphors here – let’s talk about the watch itself. For those familiar with Ikepod, you’ll already know the Megapod design. Coming in at a whopping 46mm, this is a big boy, but benefits from a lugless design making it a relatively easy wear despite its size. Additionally, the pared-down use of color makes it a subtle, albeit noticeable, design choice. The black dial and red lettering only enhance the re...

Introducing: Three New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches - SSJ023, SSJ025, And SSJ026 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches Sep 24, 2024

Introducing: Three New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches - SSJ023, SSJ025, And SSJ026

The Seiko Astron GPS Solar with an easy-wearing tonneau case design debuted in the spring of 2022. This series started with four models housing Seiko’s 5X53 dual-time movement, and after that, several models followed, including ones with the chronograph caliber 5X83. Now three new, simpler references assume their places in the core collection. The dark […] Visit Introducing: Three New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches - SSJ023, SSJ025, And SSJ026 to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 Sep 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770

The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...

Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie Sep 12, 2024

Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee

For watch collectors, enthusiasts, and industry veterans, it’s kind of hard to believe that Baselworld hasn’t existed in a meaningful way since 2019. Covid (and a rapidly changing industry) killed the industry’s biggest trade show in 2020, and as soon the show was on life support, many began prognosticating about the future of large scale industry events. Over the course of the last five or so years, the watch world has settled into a groove, with Watches & Wonders (formerly the far more exclusive SIHH) largely replacing Baselworld as the big spring must-attend watch event, with an ever growing roster of brands exhibiting at the show, and even more taking meetings in unofficial capacities adjacent to it.  Baselworld being effectively replaced by another show was probably somewhat predictable, but a turn of events that fewer saw coming was the rise of Geneva Watch Days as a major end-of-summer tentpole event for the watch community. Originally conceived in 2020 as a way for a small handful of brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F;) to bring watch collectors together in a pandemic ravaged year, the event has grown to over 50 official participants and many more exhibiting on the fringes, taking advantage of the influx of collectors and watch industry types on the city of Geneva while the event is up and running.   If you talk to people who have attended Geneva Watch Days since it began, you’ll hear a lot of chatter about t...