Deployant
New: SEVENFRIDAY ME-Series
SEVENFRIDAY introduces the new ME-Series, an update to the M-Series, and takes it to a new level with its organic, aerodynamic case design.
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Quill & Pad
Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair: A Party with Benefits, plus a Typhoon!
Unlike the niche-like fairs in Geneva, the Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) located in the world’s second largest watch exporter after Switzerland, drives the energy to the next level. It focuses not only on watches of all types, from mechanicals to smart, but also on components, fashion, trade and commerce. Marton Radkai reports his impressions of the fair.
Deployant
New: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold
The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon is a statement timepiece, with not only an aesthetically intricate design, but also an impressive purpose-built movement to match. The case size at 38mm is a delightful substitute to the previous 41.5mm version, especially for those with slimmer wrists. We like that the movement ‘fills up’ the case, visible from the case back, usually a hallmark of purpose built movements; specific movement for a specific case.
Monochrome
Introducing – Jacob & Co. Updates its Bold Oil Pump Tourbillon Watch
Forget conservative, low-key luxury with Jacob & Co. The brand’s timepieces are extravagant and spectacular creations that push the boundaries. While the design of his statement pieces may divide opinions, there’s no denying that Jacob brings a unique and captivating essence to the industry. Introduced in 2019, the Oil Pump watch blends precision with entertainment, […]
SJX Watches
MB&F;’s Affordable M.A.D.1 is Now Slimmer and Swiss
Conceived as an affordable sub-brand of MB&F;, M.A.D. Editions has become a runaway success by making an MB&F;-esque design accessible. Now the concept has been further refined with the M.A.D.1S, where the suffix stands for slimmer, Swiss, and single cylinder. The case is thinner by almost 4 mm, and now contains a Swiss-made movement that indicates the time (approximately) on a single cylinder. Initial thoughts The original M.A.D.1 was a fun watch that was affordable but expensive, and extremely thick at almost 19 mm. The slimmed down version has sleeker proportions, and the same price tag, but offers comparatively better value. The M.A.D.1S is priced at CHF2,900, just like the original version. Like the original, the M.A.D.1S is priced well for a watch with a little bit of the MB&F; magic, but expensive for a watch of its build and movement. However, the M.A.D.1S is comparatively less expensive, and conversely offers a bit more value, because it has a slightly more upscale movement inside. Mad but more wearable Two versions of the M.A.D.1S are available, one with a blue dial and the other in purple. The blue is available to the public, while the purple is only for “Friends & Tribe”, namely associates of the brand and owners of MB&F; watches. Both will be sold via an online raffle, as is convention for the M.A.D. watches. Both editions are otherwise identical, with a case that’s substantially slimmer than the original M.A.D.1. While the original was almost 19 mm high, th...
Video
My 2024 Watch Goals & Predictions: Returning To TAG, Rolex Boredom, New 40mm Panerai, Tudor, GS, Etc
Monochrome
Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials
The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]
Deployant
New: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m America’s Cup
Introducing the OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M America's Cup, the brand's latest to commemorate its maritime heritage. This timepiece celebrates OMEGA's role as the Official Timekeeper of the 37th America's Cup with a design that's as functional as it is aesthetic, featuring a regatta countdown bezel and the iconic America's Cup trophy silhouette on the seconds hand.
Teddy Baldassarre
Our Favorite G-Shock Watches Of All Time
We are back with another roundup by our editorial team, this time focused on G-Shock. Our objective this time was simple: to pick the G-Shock which got us into G-Shock in the first place. This doesn’t necessarily mean we are choosing a watch we own, or even have owned (though both of those scenarios are covered in these paragraphs) but rather the G-Shock that opened are eyes to a brand which – to put it mildly – has garnered a fanatical audience. So behold our entirely subjective list of what amounts to our favorite G-Shock watches. Let us know what models got you into G-Shock in the comments below! Mark Bernardo: MTGB1000 Unlike many of my peers who found themselves drawn into a career in watch journalism, my road to watch appreciation didn’t run through the G-Shock. I have worn a watch for as long as I can remember but I have always been, for the most part, an analog guy: Timexes, Fossils, the Victorinox Swiss Army pilot’s watch I bought myself with my first sizable tax refund as a gainfully employed young adult. When I started as a writer and editor specializing in timepieces, my initial take on the model was probably something like, “Casio G-Shock? Isn’t that what all those officers are wearing when they’re cuffing perps on Cops?” Having now outed myself as someone who watched Cops, I can now also admit that my narrow perception began to change drastically after a fateful press trip to Japan in the late 2000s - the first time, I was told back the...
Teddy Baldassarre
Unimatic Watches Guide
Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able. The Unimatic U1-A from 2015 The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also fie...
Worn & Wound
A Late Summer Tradition: Glashütte Original Unveils this Year’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Limited Editions
Once again, Glashütte Original is using this relatively slow late summer period in the watch industry to bring us some 1970s inspired funk by way of their extremely underrated Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. You might recall that each of the last three years saw new references for the chronograph in colors that are seasonally appropriate, and also harken back to a period of watch design when brands were less afraid to experiment. That’s a fitting way to introduce this particular watch to new audiences, since the design itself is very much an ode to 70s sports watches. But it’s also a pretty unique watch in its functionality, and we’ll take any excuse we can find to make sure more people know about it. First things first: the colors. The “Swimming Pool” dial is a vibrant turquoise color inspired by a location where you’re hopefully still spending a lot of time as August draws to a close. “Watermelon” is a shade of coral that’s a bit less intense than the bright red that probably normally associate with the fruit. If you look back at previous summertime editions of the Seventies Chronograph, these colors might look somewhat familiar (Glashütte Original previously released dials in similar tones that they classified as blue and orange). But it appears that these dials have a more uniform finish than the sunburst treatment seen in earlier editions, and they also add a black ring around each subdial adding what I think is some welcome contrast. That...
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How I Started as a Luxury Watch Dealer - My Story!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited: A Dark, Minimalist Evolution
In a move that amplifies its modern interpretation of classic pilot's watches, Stowa has introduced the Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited, a watch that builds on the design DNA of the 2021 Verus GMT Chrono. This time, the watch has been given a stealthy makeover with a matte black DLC-coated case that stays true to the brand's ethos, while adding a layer of sophistication that will undoubtedly appeal to collectors. But when Stowa says "limited" here, they really mean it. There are only 10 of these! Sheesh.
Deployant
New: Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited Edition
The Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited Edition marks Stowa's commitment to craftsmanship and design. This timepiece, limited to only 10 pieces, features a modern and military aesthetic with a highly functional approach. It houses a Valjoux 7754 chronograph movement with an uncommon single minute subdial and GMT handstack.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition
First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...
Revolution
Celebrating 5 Years of Tradition and Innovation, Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet
But should it be? Through clever use of design, materials, colors, and highly complicated movements, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has evolved significantly from its initial perception. It is now quite exciting for many reasons. A closer look reveals a complex and fascinating case design, along with an exceptional level of detail and decoration. […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Affordable Chronograph Tourbillon in Blue “Panda” Livery
A limited edition available only in Europe, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is another take on TAG Heuer’s value-minded complication. Retaining the familiar Glassbox case, this has an attractive white-and-blue dial with the flying tourbillon at six. Initial thoughts When TAG Heuer released the Carrera Glassbox in 2023, it was well received as a successful attempt at modernising a classic racing chronograph. Although the Glassbox is clearly vintage inspired, it is still an original design. The Blue Panda builds on the appeal of the Glassbox by making it more complication, adding a tourbillon to the mix. Notably, the Blue Panda is the only current variant of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with contrast-colour registers, which gives more retro vibes. Although the 42 mm case is slightly bigger than the standard Carrera without tourbillon, the short lugs allow it to wear quite well on various wrists. Priced at €25,200 with taxes, the Blue Panda is priced similar to other versions of the model, and remains a decent value proposition. While it is far more expensive than the affordable chronographs that TAG Heuer is known for, it is affordable for this combination of complications. Though the in-house movement is industrially executed, it is high quality and packaged in the attractive Glassbox case. Another species of “Panda” The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, and retains the signature elements of the Carrera Gla...
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Why I Chose This Watch Over Patek, AP, Breguet, VC, Rolex - Unboxing My First Girard-Perregaux
Deployant
New: Reservoir Longbridge British Racing
The Reservoir Longbridge British Racing watch is a timepiece that stands out for its unique motorsports inspired design and horological complications. Inspired by the aesthetic of vintage measuring instruments, this watch features retrograde minutes, jumping hours, and a power reserve indicator, which are not commonly found together in contemporary watches.
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Models
Audemars Piguet is back with three new Royal Oak Offshore models. All three bring differences including size, materials, and complications. The sporty, brash line within the Royal Oak family usually boasts outlandish design and bright coloring. If neither of those features is your bag, today’s releases may tempt you. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore […] Visit Introducing: Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Models to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité – A Different Take on a Differential
The Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité has a stunning movement while maintaining the design language of the Place Vendôme. This may seem trivial to some but for a brand that has always had a strong design culture, designing a movement around the desired appearance is still quite impressive.
Worn & Wound
Elevated EDC With CW&T;
CW&T; exists to create the things we want to see in the world. That is the first thing you read when you click “about us” on their website. In 2017, Che-Wei Wang and Taylor Levy founded a design practice in Brooklyn, integrating their backgrounds in architecture, film, and computer science. They were awarded the 2022 National Design Award for Product Design from Cooper Hewitt. In addition to their design work, they teach, contribute to open-source projects, and support independent design practices. Since their establishment, they have set guiding principles to steer them in the right direction. However, these principles are flexible and may change as they progress. STAY SMALL – In today’s world, two people can move mountains. They believe they can go from idea to creation much faster than a boardroom full of gremlins. SHARE EVERYTHING – When you purchase one of their products, you acquire all aspects of its creation process. BUY LOTS OF LOTTERY TICKETS – By this, they mean not to be afraid to take chances. Rely on your education and rely on your supportive family, but sometimes you must go for it. MAKE WHAT YOU WANT – Do not get married to any one process; stay open to new ways; if you want it, make it. THE PROOF IS IN THE PROTOTYPE – They rarely use renderings, as nothing feels and acts like the real thing except for the real thing. MAKE IT GOOD –Do not take shortcuts. Use the appropriate tools and craft it correctly. MAKE IT LAST – They believe their p...
Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection
Farer has long been on my radar as a watch brand to trust not only for exceptional quality, but a distinct design language imbued into every new reference the British brand puts out. Take, for instance, the four new references from their latest Cushion Case collection. Already a favorite (or should I say favourite) of Farer fans, the cushion case is at once totally classic and modern. Because of this chameleon-like quailty, Farer has played with the coloring and design of each watch to make four distinct “personalities” to the series. Let’s explore each model here. The new lineup features four distinct models, each offering a different style while maintaining the signature cushion case silhouette that has become a hallmark of Farer’s design ethos. First up is the Benham, which stands out with its bold cherry red dial, accented by horizontal grooves and a playful baby blue seconds hand on the sub-dial. The brushed bezel adds a sporty touch, complementing the watch’s contemporary look. Inspired by Gertrude Benham, an English explorer and mountaineer, this watch embodies adventure and boldness without veering too much into ostentation. On the other hand, the Mansfield Midnight offers a more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Its deep inky blue dial is highlighted by polished rose gold batons and numerals, further complemented by its rose gold dauphine hands, for a classic look. This watch balances metallic tones with polished rose gold accents, making it a sligh...
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Will Rolex Prices Return To Pre-2020 Levels? - Responding To YOUR Comments!
SJX Watches
Up Close: IWC Portugieser “7-Days” Automatic 42 Ref. 5017
IWC recently facelifted the entire Portugieser line, and along with it the flagship Portugieser Automatic 42 “7 Days”, now in its fourth generation. Though the tweaks are cosmetic but significant, with an attention to detail that results in clear aesthetic enhancements. Compared to the earlier generation ref. 5007, the new Portugieser has a sharper, more refined appearance, while also feeling slightly more compact. Initial thoughts Though the overall design is mostly unchanged over the earlier generation, Portugieser 7-Days immediately looks and feels different in the hand. It looks a little bit shinier, slightly more polished, as if more effort was put into making it look like an expensive watch. The appearance is subtly different yet instantly obvious, and is the cumulative result of small improvements to the case, dial, and crystal. The improvements are particularly evident compared to the first generation Portugieser ref. 5000 launched in 2000, which feels almost like a vintage watch from another era. The improvements are incremental and hardly imaginative, but they are well done. Granted not everyone might like the polished new look. The lacquered dial, for instance, has an obvious glossy finish. But most of the improvements are more subtle, particularly on the case that now has a slimmer profile and improved finishing. Importantly, the revamped Portugieser is priced almost exactly the same as its predecessor ref. 5007 (the increase is a few hundred dollars). It i...
Fratello
Fratello Talks: How Much Genta Is Too Much Genta?
Howdy, folks! On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex ask themselves: how much Genta is too much Genta? It’s hard to think of a name more revered in the field of watch design. The man’s designs have been around since the 1950s and include countless staples. Only recently have some of them […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Much Genta Is Too Much Genta? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T Review
Japan’s Citizen Watch Company marks 100 years of watchmaking in 2024, and some of its most noteworthy recent timepieces provide ample proof that, despite being in business for a full century, the brand’s drive toward forward-thinking technology and avant-garde design has not yet started to slow down. Take for example the Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T, unveiled in Fall of 2023 - which is the culmination of 30 years of Citizen’s pioneering work in the field of radio-controlled atomic timekeeping. It is the first light-powered watch with a fully analog moon-phase display, and the first moon-phase that requires no manual adjustments whatsoever from the wearer thanks to its high-tech movement, Eco-Drive Caliber H874, which receives signals from six multi-band radio transmitters. The name “Tsuki-yomi” is derived from a Japanese phrase meaning “reading the moon,” and also refers to a moon god from ancient Japanese mythology, while the “A-T” is an abbreviation for “Atomic Timekeeping.” For the ingenious Eco-Drive movement, which runs to an astounding accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, Citizen’s designers developed a special mathematical formula that calculates the exact position of the moon on each day of the year by using the radio transmission signals from the world’s atomic clocks. The watch’s dial is also a distinguishing feature: its surface is enhanced with a textural lunar landscape motif of craters, moondust and lakes that is “bold yet subtle en...
Teddy Baldassarre
First Impressions: Unimatic Toolwatch UT1 GMT
Unimatic took a step in a new direction this summer with the release of a new collection simply called Toolwatch. The collection consists of four watches across two styles, and represents a push into function-driven design. Each of the watches meet the MIL-STD-810 standard used by the US Department of Defense, and boast an internal protection system designed by Unimatic. It’s clear the Italian brand is making a serious move into true tool-watch territory here, and the watches themselves have a number of unique elements on their side, but how do they stand up to real-world, practical use? We went hands-on to find out. The UT1 GMT is one of four variations released within the Toolwatch collection, utilizing a fully indexed rotating bezel, and featuring a GMT disk and date complication. As with all Unimatic watches, the case is the most distinctive feature of the UT1, and it falls into very familiar territory. The design language that Unimatic has developed for its cases is geometric and confident, with fixed planes that meet at set angles, and no real curvature in sight. At 41.5mm in diameter, and 49mm from lug to lug, this case has a muscular presence, but never feels overbearing. This is a case that invites a closer look at a variety of angles, and there’s always a dramatic view that awaits. It’s not graceful, but it works just fine on the wrist, all things considered. This is a watch that wears its personality on its sleeve, and at nearly 14mm thick, it won’t be...
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”
We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...
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