Deployant
New with Hands-on: MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback
MB&F; enhanced their innovative LM Sequential chronograph with a flyback system and an anbled hour minute dial. Presented in a platinum case.
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Deployant
MB&F; enhanced their innovative LM Sequential chronograph with a flyback system and an anbled hour minute dial. Presented in a platinum case.
WatchAdvice
We go hands on with the Bell & Ross Diver Bronze and see how the new Black & Green colourway fairs, not to mention what the patina is like! What We Love The gold hue of the bronze case The matte green dial is silky smooth Completely different look to most other watches on the market What We Don’t The strap is a little bulky for my liking The date window could be slightly larger The bronze patinas quickly Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 My first proper Hands On experience with Bell & Ross was with the Cyber Ceramic we reviewed in March this year. If you read the review (and if you haven’t, click the link and give it a read first, I’ll wait!) you’ll probably note that I wasn’t too sure on how I’d feel about an all black, square-shaped watch on my wrist. After all, I’m not that much into fully blacked-out pieces nor do I have a love for square-shaped watches. I’ve nothing against them at all, it’s just not my style…normally! But the Cyber Ceramic changed this, as after having it on my wrist for a week or more, I came to love the piece for what it was and quietly, liked having a watch on my wrist that was completely different to most other pieces out there, and not something you’ll see in the wild all that often. You’ll also note I mentioned that the watch I originally wanted to receive for the review was the recently released Diver Black & Green Bronze. Mostly for personal reasons –...
SJX Watches
Nature-inspired textures are a consistent motif across Grand Seiko’s portfolio, so it comes as little surprise that the brand would choose this familiar theme for the launch of its newest dress watches, the hand-wind and mechanical Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003. With a dial that features a fresh take on the texture of tree bark, the Birch Bark is also noteworthy for the movement within: the first manually-wound caliber in Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family that hitherto was entirely self-winding. The SLGW002 (left) and SLGW003 Initial thoughts There are few things I like more than a manually wound, chronometer-grade dress watch. With this bias in mind, I am predisposed to like watches like the Birch Bark. But Grand Seiko made things easy by making it attractive as well, with a new iteration of its Evolution 9 design language that is lighter in terms of visual weight. The big news is, of course, the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. The Birch Bark is 1.75 mm (15%) thinner than its automatic siblings like the SLGH003, answering’ calls for slimmer, dressier options in the Grand Seiko catalogue. The watch is also 1.4 mm (3.5%) smaller in diameter, resulting in a form factor that sits comfortably on the average wrist and will slide under most shirt cuffs. Dimensions aside, the Birch Bark in titanium feels smaller and lighter than expected due to the case material. This runs counter to expectations, since most dress watches are in precious metal....
Fratello
By now, it’s pretty clear William Wood has gone all in with its firefighting-themed watches. For its latest creation, the brand pays homage to the sea with a dial inspired by the twin telegraphs of the Massey Shaw fireboat. This vessel played a part in the Dunkirk evacuation in 1940, saving 600 lives, and the […] Visit Introducing: The William Wood Dunkirk Watch to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Any new A. Lange & Söhne releases is exciting, even when it's just a new dial for one of the most important chronographs ever.The post The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down gets a sporty lift in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Just a little after a month from Watches and Wonders, the Watchmaker's watchmaker Jaeger Le-Coultre released a new watch (Polaris Geographic) and introduced new dial colours to the Polaris line.
SJX Watches
In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...
Fratello
Last week, Tudor released a 1,908-piece limited run of Black Bay 58 watches with a special dial to celebrate Inter Milan winning the Italian Serie A football league. Other recent Tudor specials were two Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” timepieces. And there’s also the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” made for the Tudor […] Visit A Flurry Of Faces: Is Tudor Forcing Its Hand With Too Many Limited And Special Editions? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. If you’re a cynic, this might be what you’d identify as the brand’s defining characteristic. They’ve developed a reputation for endless variants, swapping dial colors, textures, case shapes, and movements in every conceivable combination. There’s a joke about weather in New England, that if you don’t like it, all you have to do is wait, and you could make a similar one about Grand Seiko: if you’re after a particular dial/color/case combo that doesn’t exist yet, there’s a decent chance it’ll materialize eventually. But for all the SKUs in the Grand Seiko catalog, and the genuine variety you’ll find there, something was missing: a mechanical chronograph. There’s long been a line of Spring Drive chronographs (and Spring Drive chronographs with a GMT complication) but, kind of surprisingly, there’s never been a purely mechanical chrono under the Grand Seiko banner. $13700 [VIDEO] Review: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Case High-intensity titanium Movement 9SC5 Dial Blue Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap High-intensity titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 43.2 x 51.5mm Thickness 15.3mm Lug Width 23mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $13700 That changed a year ago with the launch of the Tentagraph, the centerpiece of Grand Seiko’s Watches & Wonders 2023, and easily their most ambitious release of the year. If you take the Kodo out of the equation, it’s almost certainly t...
Worn & Wound
Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr. That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...
Time+Tide
With a pink Comblémine dial and completely over-engineered movement, this Moritz Grossmann is a prime example of Glashütte watchmaking.The post Moritz Grossmann and Art in Time team up to benefit the Princess Grace Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
While its primary focus has been the highly successful PRX collection for a couple of years, last year, Tissot decided to go back to basics by discreetly reinterpreting one of its classics, the Chemin des Tourelles collection. Subtly redesigned, upgraded mechanically with a Powermatic 80 movement and offering new and elegant dial designs, the revamped […]
Hodinkee
Twenty championships = two stars on the jersey, and two stars on the dial.
Deployant
Panerai releases a new Panerai Luminor in the form of the Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482. 10 day power reserve with GMT in a blue dial.
Teddy Baldassarre
Last year, Longines relaunched the Conquest, a mainstay of its collection since the mid-1950s, in a new execution heavily influenced by its earliest vintage forebears and staking out a dressier territory than its sporty dive-watch sibling, the Hydroconquest. Longines set out to expand the new Conquest’s appeal this year with a new series of models in unisex 38mm cases. Read on for a hands-on review of the new Conquest 38 with an effervescent champagne dial. Longines, founded in 1832 in the Jura valley of Switzerland, where it remains headquartered today, can claim a variety of milestones in its long history, including one that is largely overlooked. In the 1950s, Longines became one of the first watchmakers to introduce product “families,” today a staple of the watch industry; the first was the Conquest collection, whose name was registered on April 3, 1954 with the Swiss Registry of Intellectual Property and which launched that same year. Like just about any timepiece well past the half-century mark on the market, the Conquest has evolved substantially over the decades since. The first Conquest (Heritage re-edition pictured above) was a model of midcentury masculine simplicity, and one of the first wristwatches notable for its high levels of waterproofness and magnetic resistance. Its steel case measured a modest (but at the time standard) 35.2mm and fastened via wide, chamfered lugs to a leather strap. Its champagne-colored dial had arrowhead-style notched indexes ...
Monochrome
Following the release of the Conical Tourbillon in black with green dial-side animation and the vibrant, multi-coloured Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, the brand continues its innovative exploration of fluid time presentation and bold colour combinations. Indie watchmaker HYT‘s latest creation is the Conical Tourbillon Panda, a cultured black-and-white version of this complex watch, limited to […]
Fratello
Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.
Deployant
Czapek adds to their Antarctique collection with a new variation in a green meteorite dial with the Czapek Antarctique Green Meteor
SJX Watches
To celebrate Inter Milan’s recent triumph in the Serie A – a 20th title for the Italian football club – Tudor has created the Black Bay 58 “Inter”. This limited edition Black Bay 58 (BB58) features a gradient blue dial with the club’s emblem above the six o’clock marker, flanked by two gold stars – one for each of the football club’s 10 league titles. First presented to the club’s players, the watch will be also available to the public as a limited edition of 1,908 pieces, available only at Tudor boutiques and retailers in Italy. Initial thoughts Football aside, the BB58 “Inter” is a good looking watch. The blue ombré dial is striking and different from the usual Tudor aesthetic, and it compliments the vintage-inspired aesthetic well. At the same time, the Inter Milan logo and twin stars are also fairly discreet, while serving as visual balance for the Tudor logo above. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a compact, easily wearable case, high-spec in-house movement. Pricing is also comparable to the regular production model, which makes it a great value proposition. The BB58 “Inter” presented to French footballer Marcus Thuram. Image – Inter Milan I Nerazzurri Already associated with the America’s Cup, Formula 1, and pro cycling, Tudor is now furthering its involvement with football. Already the official timekeeper for American soccer club Inter Miami C.F., Tudor is now partnered with one of the most famo...
Worn & Wound
The trajectory of Sartory Billard over the last few years has been one of the most unusual and interesting stories in the world of independent watchmaking. The brand had long been established as a leader in fully bespoke watches. The entire premise of the brand was built on the idea that every piece is unique, with wide customization options available to virtually every aspect of the dial. They’ve also been associated with great value, and were generally seen as an affordable option for adventurous fans of independent watchmaking who wanted something literally unique well under five figures. None of that has changed, really, but Sartory Billard’s recent output has seen them upping the ante considerably, with a new tourbillon movement and plans for an even more complex caliber featuring jumping hours and jumping minutes. Another example: a new collaboration with Grail Watch featuring an incredibly ornate and over-the-top mirror finish on nearly every visible surface. Grail Watch 11, the Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost,” takes the brand’s integrated bracelet sports watch design and a design motif they’ve become known for and turns the proverbial volume up past the breaking point. Of the many options Sartory Billard offers to customers in their customization program, one particularly popular one is their fully polished dial. The SB07 seen here takes that idea and expands it to the case and bracelet, effectively making the steel components “invisible,” hence the ...
SJX Watches
Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable. Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...
Deployant
Armin Strom releases a new variation of their Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire collection with a purple guilloché dial mainplate.
Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen's stylish vintage F77 reissue welcomes a thoroughly modern meteorite dial to its titanium case: a winning combination.The post The Nivada Grenchen F77 Titanium Meteorite blends ’70s swagger with modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...
Deployant
NOMOS Glashütte releases 6 Ludwig models to commemorate 75 years of the Basic Law of the Federal Republic of Germany. Each model is limited to 75 pieces and comes with a unique dial signature at 6 o'clock.
Hodinkee
Part 1970s design, part Brutalist architecture, this watch is a bold stone dial statement.
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux releases two new dial options for their 42mm Laureato in Pink Gold. The new dials are in either Sage Green or Ultramarine Blue.
Fratello
After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not aimed at Moonwatch enthusiasts (e.g. the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch finally came out on March 5th, 2024. I use the word “finally” because Omega had already shown it in October 2023 on the wrist of former […] Visit The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...
Monochrome
Despite their original display, which splits time (for most of them) between central minutes, hours in a sub-dial at 12 o’clock and seconds in a subsidiary counter at 6 o’clock, regulator watches are some of the most classic you can imagine. The origin of these régulateur is nothing fancy, it has nothing to do with […]
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