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625 articles · 9 videos found · page 11 of 22

Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II Jun 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II

Continuing Doxa's focus on its core late-60s aesthetic, the brand recently unveiled the T.Graph II, the latest iteration of its core dive chronograph. Reborn but largely faithful to the original (and indeed to some more recent T.Graph forays), the new T.Graph II ports the Sub 300's classic look into a burly yet entirely wearable automatic chronograph that comes in Doxa's classic trio of colors, along with the surprise inclusion of a blue "Caribbean" execution. With a flagship price tag, it's a model that has previously been hard to source and often even more expensive, so the question becomes: is the new T.Graph II the dive-ready Doxa chronograph we've been waiting for? Don't fret, we'll get to all that and more. But first, a quick history lesson to bring us all loosely up to speed on the T.Graph, as it's a model with a cult following but was previously never made in any considerable quantity. T.Graphs Past To keep things as basic as possible (because Jason Heaton has written extensively about, and dived with, vintage T.Graphs – here with a Searambler, and here with a Sharkhunter), the new Sub 200 T.Graph II is based on a low-production design from 1969 called the Sub 200 T.Graph. While there is some contention over production numbers, it is believed that ~300 of each of the original colorways (Sharkhunter, Searambler, and Professional) were produced. Again, I recommend both of Jason's stories, even if only so you can see how absolutely gorgeous a vintage Sub 200 T.Graph...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Blake Z. Rong Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Titanium – Jun 18, 2026

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Blake Z. Rong

Our 3 for $5k series is back this week with a new entry from Worn & Wound contributor Blake Z. Rong. Blake is a Brooklyn based writer and while his selections here focus on modern watches, they reflect his personal interest in vintage, time tested designs, but in a playful and spirited way. These are not vintage recreations, necessarily, but reinterpretations of classic ideas, sometimes with a lighthearted twist.  If I could cut my collection down to three watches, I figure that I could someday live the rest of my life a happy man, satisfied only by the essentials and with no horrible combination of discretionary spending and emotional attachment to finite objects to distract me. So far, that has not proven the case. But if a person only needs three watches to truly be fulfilled in any scenario, then here’s what I would do in an alternate realm: three modern watches from brands both known and worthy of being rediscovered, and versatile enough to carry you from the beach to the boardroom. What are watches if not helping us dream of these scenarios?  Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Titanium – $1,025 The irony of wearing a titanium watch is that it is a tremendously difficult material to work with: not only does it stick to machining tools, according to Citizen, but its discarded shavings also have the tendency to catch fire. And when you’ve made a watch with it, it’s so lightweight that it can feel like you’re wearing a piece of plastic. But that didn’t stop Citize...

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II Jun 15, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II

What We Know Just in time for the hot and humid summer ahead, Doxa has just unveiled a new generation of its distinctive, cushion-cased dive-watch-slash-chronograph with the new Sub 200 T.Graph II. The best part? It's no longer a limited edition, but rather a permanent offering for the brand. Oh, and thankfully, it's priced less than that previous 300-piece LE. At a quick glance, nothing seems to have changed on Doxa's tribute to its 1969 design, and you'd be sort of correct. The dial layout, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, along with an oversized arrowhead chronograph seconds hand, remains the same in this new generation. But the main changes here are sure to make almost everyone happy: a slight reduction in diameter and case thickness. While the previous Sub 200 T.Graph measured at 43mm in diameter with a thickness of 15.15mm, the steel case on the Sub 200 T.Graph II measures 42mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness.  Rather than the new old stock Valjoux 7734 chronograph caliber that the limited edition housed, this new T.Graph II uses a contemporary automatic Sellita SW510 chronograph caliber, with a slightly higher 56-hour power reserve and a much higher beat rate of 28,800 VpH. New to the Sub 200 T.Graph II is also another dial color, Caribbean (Doxa's name for blue), which is a familiar livery within the brand's other models but never before offered on a T.Graph. The dark, slightly dusty navy dial joins the three other colorways found in the original design: ...

Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2524 Jun 5, 2026

Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale

Online-only auctioneer Marteau & Co returns for its third sale, The Heat Wave. which opens at noon Geneva time on June 10, continuing with its focus on independent watchmaking. Marteau & Co was founded just last year by a duo including industry veteran Arthur Touchot, who spent several years as a journalist followed by a stint at a prominent auction house. The Swiss auctioneer sets itself apart with its intriguing “Maker’s Fee” concept, which rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold, allowing a brand to benefit from the appreciation of its products. While artists’ resale rights, or droit de suite, is far from a new concept, and has been codified into law in the European Union and United Kingdom, Marteau & Co’s approach is the first instance of its application in watchmaking. Lot 6 – Voutilainen Decimal Repeater Regulator piece unique Kari Voutilainen needs no introduction, but this watch does as it is, like all Voutilainen minute repeaters, a unique piece. This example left the Voutilainen workshop in 2024, cased in 38 mm of unusual 4N gold, which sits between red and yellow gold, while the hands and dial, as you’d expect from any Voutilainen watch – excellent, but with a chiming twist. During a survey of vintage repeating wristwatches you’ll realize that many only have two hands. If you compared the movement of, say, a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 with a seconds hand to one without, the reason becomes clear. The two ...

Hands-On With The Svelte And Soft Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco, An Enchanting 150-Piece Limited Edition Fratello
Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco May 25, 2026

Hands-On With The Svelte And Soft Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco, An Enchanting 150-Piece Limited Edition

This watch made me lose my loupe during Watches and Wonders this year. It also made me lose my mind. After the product presentation at the Chronoswiss booth during the last edition of Watches and Wonders, I was so impressed by this watch that I left my loupe on the table and stumbled out to […] Visit Hands-On With The Svelte And Soft Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco, An Enchanting 150-Piece Limited Edition to read the full article.

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135 SJX Watches
Zenith s Product Chief Officer May 25, 2026

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135

For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...

First Look - The Marco Tedeschi MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours, The Evolution of a Watch once Made by Kross Studio Monochrome
May 22, 2026

First Look - The Marco Tedeschi MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours, The Evolution of a Watch once Made by Kross Studio

Kross Studio has never been about conventional watchmaking, whether through its openworked designs or collaborations tied to everything from Star Wars to Batman. Last year, the Geneva-based brand introduced the MT1 Tourbillon, a manually wound tourbillon with a smooth lug-less case, crown-free construction, and fully openworked movement design. It was also a watch that carried […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Fratello
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Another May 22, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch

Another Friday, another list. This week, we shift the focus from regatta timers to pilot’s watches. To be more specific, we are looking for five alternatives to the classic IWC Big Pilot’s Watch. Do you remember when IWC’s famous oversized aviation classic was all the rage? In the early 2000s, during the era of big […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command Hodinkee
Hamilton 6B Mark XI May 15, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command

Scorekeeping last week: the only watch of the four highlighted to have sold is that bonkers purple-dialed Sub from Tropical Watch; the Patek 3970, the Omega 145.022BA, and the Movado Polyplan all remain available. Deep breaths, everyone: another week's on the books. Auction season's in full swing, and there are wild results all over the place, but let's take a little breather here, together, and look at less dizzyingly priced goodies. Strays Perhaps you've found yourself of late—coincidentally!—more curious than usual about pocket watches. While Mark's the Official Pocket Watch Tsar, I've always liked them, and fight the urge most weeks to include any here. No more! This week, there's this extraordinary, anonymous jump-hour pocket watch that is almost unfairly beautiful for being 200 years old. If that doesn't float your boat, you have the relatively uncommon opportunity to nab a Thomas Engel Tourbillon (if the name Thomas Engel doesn't register, gird your ego before digging in—compared with Professor Engel, we're all pathetic underachievers).  It doesn't seem reasonable that any of us should be able to purchase a gold Breguet pocket watch with hour and quarter repeater from 1795—insert Harrison Ford growling "It belongs in a museum!"—and yet you can do just that right here. If, however, you wish to remain yoked to the tyranny of telling time on your wrist, here's a Speedmaster Racing Dial which, yes, isn't exactly in showroom condition, but they're uncommon eno...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting And Highlights From The Vancouver Timepiece Show Hodinkee
May 12, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting And Highlights From The Vancouver Timepiece Show

Held on the mountainous slope of Vancouver's North Shore, the Vancouver Timepiece Show offered its second-ever installment this past April. The event offers a true enthusiast-driven platform for a variety of value-driven brands and is part of a now three-show-strong portfolio for Canada's Timepiece Shows, spanning Vancouver, Toronto, and, later this month, Montreal for the first-ever appearance.  Less than a week after the big show in Geneva ended, I hopped on a plane and flew to Vancouver for a very different type of watch show. Held in a bright and airy space in The Shipyards of North Van, the Vancouver show evolved this year, with fewer brands showing but attendance up by about 20%, to roughly 3,000 people over the weekend.  A smaller, more casual show than the Toronto event held in September, the Vancouver Timepiece Show reflects the local watch scene while attracting brands and attendees from a much wider range. Scroll on for highlights from the brands at the show and a good handful of local watch-spotting.  A pastel Halios Seaforth with the 12-hour bezel. Very Vancouver.  Some Marathon wares glowing under UV light.  The newly released Marathon CeraShell Navigator evolves a 40-year-old classic with a new case material that offers improved bezel performance, conventional springbars (vs. fixed), and a lighter weight on the wrist.   Micromilspec continues to impress with versions of their multi-talented Milgraph, seen here as a special 75-piece version called "Proj...

Business News: The Importance Of Being Cartier Hodinkee
Cartier Among top-level mainstream Swiss-made May 11, 2026

Business News: The Importance Of Being Cartier

Among top-level, mainstream Swiss-made watch brands, few can match Cartier's performance over the last half-decade. The Paris-based jewelry marque has vaulted ever higher to become the second biggest watch brand by sales, according to analyst estimates from both Vontobel and Morgan Stanley. While the jewelry unit of Cartier remains its primary driver, analysts say estimated sales from the watch division grew about 10% in 2025 to exceed CHF 3 billion, up from less than CHF 2 billion in 2019. What's perhaps more notable is the performance of Cartier's watch division relative to the broader market. As most brands have surfed the undulating wave of the post-COVID boom, followed by a downturn in demand, Cartier's watch unit has outpaced the market while remaining relatively affordable and accessible, with prices averaging about CHF 6,000 per watch and implementing lower price increases than most competitors, according to analysts. That has allowed Cartier to consolidate its position as one of just a handful of high-volume, long-established, and approachable-priced brands that are top choices on mainstream watch consumers' want lists, particularly among younger buyers.  Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir with oversized "XII". At the same time, Cartier has also grown in standing among watch enthusiasts and collectors, with prices for models on the secondary market gaining 8.6% in a year, according to WatchCharts.com's Cartier index. Auction results for vintage pieces have performe...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Mystery Complications - H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux May 10, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Mystery Complications - H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Another week is in the books, and the buzz from a surprisingly bold Watches and Wonders still lingers. Outside the major brands, the show delivered genuine innovation. Highlights ranged from Armin Strom’s on-demand 12:59-chiming minute repeater to Zenith’s practical and deeply satisfying Zenclasp for the Chronomaster Sport Skeleton. For week 19, we shift focus to […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Mystery Complications — H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux to read the full article.

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2) Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Observatory-style watch Photo courtesy May 5, 2026

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)

There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB023 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio Apr 27, 2026

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB023

At Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko launched its best dive watch yet, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) Ushio 300 Diver SLGB023 and SLGB025. As a product, it is both shocking and obvious, combining everything Grand Seiko collectors have longed for: a moderately sized case, an improved bracelet and clasp, and a 300 m depth rating. It all comes packaged in a titanium case and an enthusiast-favourite no-date format, and retails for slightly less than Grand Seiko’s existing premium dive watches. It’s a strong statement from a brand looking to gain traction in the luxury sports watch segment. Initial thoughts Seiko’s dive watch pedigree is one of the strongest in the industry, from their iconic saturation divers of the late 1960s to the gone but not forgotten SKX. Yet the flagship Grand Seiko brand has struggled to field a compelling dive watch. Bulky cases, strange proportions, odd depth ratings, and clumsy clasps held back past offerings. Fortunately, Grand Seiko has finally overcome these shortcomings and can finally boast a highly competitive diver’s watch. I made a wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 not long ago, at the top of which was my vision for a Grand Seiko UFA Spring Drive diver. To be clear, I’d already known a dive watch using the new cal. 9RBx family of Spring Drive movements was coming based on trademark filings, but I wished for something that many Grand Seiko collectors have wanted for years – a moderately sized dive watch, wit...

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet Worn & Wound
Tudor Updates Apr 21, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet

“So many Tudors, so little time.” That could be a bumper sticker, a tattoo, and perhaps even the Watches & Wonders motto in almost any year the event takes place. One of the real challenges of the show, at least in the very first moments of it, is deciding which Tudor releases to focus on. As we’ve discussed many times, Tudor is one of the only brands that does not give press early access to news of their new releases. Each of the last few years, their official press release has hit while our team was on the shuttle from our hotel to Palexpo for the first day of the show (where we always meet with Tudor first thing in the morning). Part of those first few hours of Watches & Wonders always involves discussing and trying to predict which of their novelties are going to be of the greatest interest to our readers.  This year, it was pretty clear that the new Monarch was going to be the most discussed new Tudor release. It’s a brand new watch, after all, with a new case and bracelet design, and a new movement. Even if it went over like a lead balloon with the public, that’s clearly the most newsworthy release and the one to lead with. The Black Bay 54 in blue also felt like it would generate a lot of discussion. And we wouldn’t have suspected it at the time, but the Royal relaunch is actually pretty major as well – those watches are much better in person than we could have imagined from the press release, and they represent a substantial investment on Tudor’s p...

First Look - The New, Compact 36mm A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The New, Compact 36mm A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a relatively young but important member of A. Lange & Söhne’s repertoire. Launched in 2010 as an “everyday” complication, the annual calendar offers a more practical, slightly less complex alternative to the brand’s high-end perpetual calendars while maintaining Lange’s classic Saxon aesthetics. Initially available in 38.5mm cases – but discontinued […]

Patek Philippe’s New Celestial Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s New Celestial Blasts Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s New Celestial Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its Celestial line for the third time, following the addition of a pointer date in 2012 this generation adds the time of sunrise and sunset, and a daring new design for the formidable, space-age 47 mm lug-less case. It also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication’s greatest flaw, but as it is pre-programmed for Geneva, it is somewhat moot if you live at very different latitudes, a flaw the planisphere also shares. Historical...

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Ref 6105G Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its star chart “Grand Complication” for the third time with the Celestial Sunrise Sunset Ref. 6105G. The ref. 6105G adds the time of sunrise and sunset – cleverly integrated into the date scale – and a daring new design with a formidable, space-age lug-less case in white gold that’s 47 mm across. The ref. 6105G also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, adding a corrector that shifts the sunrise and sunset scales, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication...

Vacheron Constantin Unveils Two Pink Gold Versions Of The Historiques American 1921 Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Two Pink Gold Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Unveils Two Pink Gold Versions Of The Historiques American 1921

Last year was a huge one for Vacheron Constantin, as the house celebrated its 270th anniversary. This occasion was highlighted with a string of special anniversary releases. Among them was the breathtaking Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, which became the world’s most complicated wristwatch. But what could we expect from Vacheron Constantin after last […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Unveils Two Pink Gold Versions Of The Historiques American 1921 to read the full article.

A Fresh Palette for the Breguet Tradition SJX Watches
Breguet Tradition Breguet refreshes Mar 31, 2026

A Fresh Palette for the Breguet Tradition

Breguet refreshes its Tradition collection for 2026 with new colourways and expanded grand feu enamel dial options across five references, building on the momentum of the brand’s 250th anniversary year. The line-up spans four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde and one manually wound GMT, all underpinned by the architecturally distinctive cal. 505 that has defined the collection since its 2005 introduction. Initial thoughts Inspired by an original Abraham-Louis Breguet’s montres à tact pocket watch from the late 18th century, the Tradition collection, released in 2005, was Breguet’s first major new model family under Swatch Group management. The central barrel placement and unusual gear train arrangement perfectly captures the essence of the original pocket watches, and this aspect of the design remains as recognisable and distinctive as ever, despite the a growing number of independent watchmakers that have introduced watches with a similar layout. In fact, the cal. 505 is so successful as a contemporary interpretation of Breguet’s work that a variation of it was adapted for use in the award-winning Classique Souscription 2025 introduced last year. For 2026, the Tradition collection has been slightly refreshed with modern colourways and more grand feu enamel dial options. The five new models include four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde, one of which features a diamond-set bezel, and one manually wound reference with a dual-time complicatio...

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is an Affordable Indie World Time SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2026

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is an Affordable Indie World Time

Andreas Strehler is expanding his more accessible Strehler brand with the Säntis, a world time wristwatch that’s an evolution of the Sirna time-only from 2023. The Säntis continues with the style established by the Sirna, including the patterned titanium dial and tonneau-esque case. Powered by the same in-house automatic calibre as the Sirna, the Säntis is a classic Cottier-style world time with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. Unsurprisingly given Andreas Strehler’s well-known technical proficiency, the world time mechanism is integrated well into the calibre and is easily set entirely via the crown. Initial thoughts The Säntis is a traditional Cottier-style world time, but one executed well and as practical as a Cottier-style world time can be. While the Säntis is the first Strehler world time, it is not the first travel wristwatch by Andreas Strehler, who has made several in the past, including a bespoke commission. The watch exemplifies Andreas Strehler’s strength, which is high quality watchmaking and complications, but made more affordable under his Strehler label. Though produced in slightly larger numbers than his high-end watches, Strehler watches are still high-quality industrial haute horlogerie that represent strong value. The styling is a little generic, especially at a distance, but as with the Sirna, the watch reveals its details up close, giving it more personality. The patterned dial and hands are distinctive, though the dial is almost anonymous:...

Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want SJX Watches
Seiko s New Marinemaster Gives Mar 18, 2026

Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want

Less than two years out from its 2024 relaunch, Seiko refreshes its flagship dive watch with the new Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001 and its limited edition counterpart, the HBF002. Both models feature a ceramic bezel, longer power reserve, better promised timekeeping, and a much-requested tool-less micro-adjust clasp - tangible upgrades that justify a near 25% premium over the previous generation. The regular production model launches alongside a more flamboyant 1,000-piece limited edition designed in collaboration with the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC). Initial thoughts Seiko relaunched the Marinemaster brand three years ago with an unexpected trio of compact skin-divers. This was followed by a return to form the following year with a pair of 300 m Hi-Beat Diver-inspired models that dispensed with the “Professional” branding, front-loading case construction, and helium impermeability that distinguished Marinemasters of the past, but offered a more compact 42 mm size and a much improved bracelet. However, it still used the same stamped clasp body found on entry-level divers, just with an upgraded swing arm, and relied on the aging cal. 8L35 movement while Seiko rolled out the improved cal. 8L45 in the similarly priced King Seiko Vanac. The new HBF001 solves all of those problems, and introduces only a few new ones. Given the similarity to the SLA079, Seiko clearly felt the need for unambiguous differentiatio...

TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO Mar 13, 2026

TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO

After the unexpected departure of its last leader at the start of the year, TAG Heuer has announced Béatrice Goasglas will take over as chief executive officer starting May 1, 2026. Currently president of the brand’s Americas division, Ms Goasglas’ background lies in digital marketing and client experience. She joined TAG Heuer in 2018 as vice-president of Digital & Client Experience, before rising to head the Asia-Pacific market. Notably, she worked with Frederic Arnault on Connected smartwatch during her stint at TAG Heuer headquarters, at the time one of the brand’s most important projects. Mr Arnault rose to chief executive of TAG Heuer, then moved on to head the LVMH Watch Division. He is now leading “quiet luxury” label Loro Piana, although Mr Arnault is known to retain an eye on the watch brand he once led. Prior to that, she held digital marketing and client-relations roles in fashion and cosmetics. While this background e-commerce and client relationships is an unusual background for the chief of a mainstream watch brand, it is perhaps useful and fitting for the luxury watch industry in the 21st century, and also revealing as to where TAG Heuer wants to go.  

Sainte-Croix: The Beating Heart of Mechanical Art SJX Watches
De Bethune explains Denis Flageollet Mar 13, 2026

Sainte-Croix: The Beating Heart of Mechanical Art

The Jura balcony awakens under the March sun. Between sky and mountains, the village of Sainte-Croix and the l’Institut de la Mécanique d’Art (IMA), seem suspended in silence. Yet behind this tranquillity lies one of the most remarkable centres of mechanical art, also known as the automata, for the institute is home to the Association Mec-Art pour la Mécanique d’Art, which is also open to the public to further its mission to promote the craft of automata. “Watchmaking mechanics is industry – serial production. Mechanical art is about unique pieces, for which we use entirely different methods. Some brands focus exclusively on one or the other, while others operate at the crossroads of both – like De Bethune,” explains Denis Flageollet, the cofounder of De Bethune who founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 together with François Junod and Nicolas Court, both automaton makers. IMA occupies the building originally constructed by Reuge in 2016, which was acquired by De Bethune in 2023. The building now hosts mechanical art activities for Reuge, Van Cleef & Arpels and De Bethune, as well as the Association Mec-Art. “Mechanical art depends on an ecosystem of artisans,” he adds, pointing to the uniquely concentrated geography of Sainte-Croix, “the only town where all these skills coexist.” François Junod agrees, “We live in a natural incubator. Here, everyone talks about mechanical art.” It is precisely for this reason that when Junod was invited to ...

Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026 Fratello
Mar 12, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026

The microbrand segment of the watch industry has evolved dramatically over the last decade. What once felt like a niche corner of the horology world has grown into a thriving ecosystem of small companies producing thoughtful, design-driven watches. Some focus on value, others on originality, and a few are beginning to push the boundaries of […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026 to read the full article.