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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture SJX Watches
Chanel Takes Stake Jan 12, 2026

Business News: Chanel Takes Stake in Kross Manufacture

Chanel has taken a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, the industrial operation behind the watches of Kross Studio and several third-party clients. Though the investment has not been formally publicised, I reached out to the brand’s founder Marco Tedeschi who confirmed the investment and provided additional context on the strategy for Kross Manufacture. In short, the transaction continues Chanel’s long-running strategy of backing independent watchmaking infrastructure through minority investments, rather than pursuing full acquisitions or operational control. Initial thoughts While Chanel’s growing footprint across independent watchmaking is well documented, its investment in Kross Manufacture is notable for its manufacturing-first focus. Unlike brand-level partnerships, the stake is confined strictly to production capabilities, reinforcing Chanel’s long-term interest in securing specialised, high-end manufacturing capacity rather than expanding its portfolio of consumer-facing marques. In this sense, the investment can be viewed as similar to its 2019 investment in the Kenissi manufacture alongside Tudor. Equally significant is what the deal does not represent: there is no rapid industrial scaling planned. Instead, the investment appears designed to selectively expand capacity, allowing Kross Manufacture to continue serving both its in-house brand and more third-party clients without sacrificing the agility required to produce watches in very small quantities...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Vs. Certina DS Action Diver Titanium 38mm Fratello
Certina DS Action Diver Titanium Jan 11, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Vs. Certina DS Action Diver Titanium 38mm

Welcome back to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Daan and I are both stationed in the Netherlands, where winter is hitting hard. The skies are gray, and a layer of slushy, half-melted snow covers the earth. This has us dreaming of summer holidays in faraway exotic locations. We dream of wearing nothing but swim trunks and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Vs. Certina DS Action Diver Titanium 38mm to read the full article.

Chronograph vs. Chronometer: What is the Difference? Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 5, 2026

Chronograph vs. Chronometer: What is the Difference?

One of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: chronograph vs. chronometer. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. This is, again, the simplest way to look at it. But there’s a bit more to both chronometers and chronographs that a knowledge-hungry watch enthusiast might want to digest - including the fact that the terms are not interchangeable but also not mutually exclusive.  [toc-section heading="Chronometers Defined"]  Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronome...

Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps Fratello
Dec 23, 2025

Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps

ISOfrane straps have a special place in diving history. As a 1960s creation, the original model became a fixture for divers due to its flexibility, durability, and comfort. Today, modern versions of the straps are used both for their original purpose and as everyday accompaniments. Until now, though, only one design was available. Today, we […] Visit Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro It’s Dec 21, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a nice cup of coffee and an early morning watch battle. But as this is the last Sunday before Christmas, this will be the last Sunday Morning Showdown of the year. Next week, Jorg will look back at some of the most remarkable showdowns of 2025 to […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Dec 14, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds

Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to a new Sunday Morning Showdown. Grab a cup of coffee or tea, something sweet, and sneak up somewhere next to the Christmas tree. This week, we’ll put two watches up against each other that could both perfectly serve as Christmas dinner watches. They’re both rectangular with silver dials and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tank Américaine Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger Dune White Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand Nov 30, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger Dune White Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand

Welcome to a new installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we pit two very similar watches from two very dissimilar segments against each other. The Tudor Ranger Dune White takes on the much cheaper Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand. We’ll see if the €2,425 price gap makes sense. Daan will take the Tudor’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger Dune White Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 Fratello
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Nov 23, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we put the new Omega Planet Ocean 600M to work. We’re not giving it an easy start to life, pitting it against the mighty Rolex Submariner “No-Date” ref. 124060. Jorg has the honor of defending the new Omega, while Thomas sides with the Rolex. Now, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 to read the full article.

Chopard Celebrates The 30th Anniversary Of Its Manufacture With The Stunning L.U.C Grand Strike Fratello
Chopard Celebrates Nov 19, 2025

Chopard Celebrates The 30th Anniversary Of Its Manufacture With The Stunning L.U.C Grand Strike

As 2025 draws to a close, we are slowly getting ready to look back at some of this year’s best releases. But the wonderful people at Chopard said, “Hold your horses! We are not done yet.” With the stunning L.U.C Grand Strike, the brand celebrates the 30th anniversary of its manufacture in style. Incidentally, it […] Visit Chopard Celebrates The 30th Anniversary Of Its Manufacture With The Stunning L.U.C Grand Strike to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Grand Finale - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Fratello
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Welcome Nov 18, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Grand Finale - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025

Welcome, dear Fratelli, to the final battle in our inaugural Dress Watch Season contest! Our writers made their cases for a broad range of dress watches over the past few weeks. You, our esteemed readers, voted for your favorite each time. In the end, the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 and the Breguet Classique […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Grand Finale - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds Vs. Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm Fratello
Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Nov 16, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds Vs. Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm

With the Fratello Dress Watch Season competition in full swing, our site has seemingly been full of expensive, heavy-hitting, precious-metal formal watches. That’s why, for today’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we decided to do something a bit different. This is the featherweight bout between two affordable integrated-bracelet sports watches. This is the Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds Vs. Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 1 - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Nov 11, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 1 - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm

Welcome to the first semifinal in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with two watches that both confidently won their first matches. Daan is back with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, the sports watch turned dress watch in rose […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 1 - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGB005 Yes it’s Nov 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005

Yes, it’s that time again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we picked two technologically impressive watches. The first is the Rolex Land-Dweller, which debuted during Watches and Wonders in April of this year. The Land-Dweller will go up against the Grand Seiko SLGB005 that was introduced in September of this year. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Nov 4, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

This is the third match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a beautiful and classical duo. Match three in round one sees RJ defending the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription in yellow gold and Mike making his case for […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Vs. Serica Parade 1174 Fratello
Serica Parade 1174 You would Nov 2, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Vs. Serica Parade 1174

You would be forgiven for thinking you’d landed on another one of our Dress Watch Season battles, but, no, this is a regular Sunday Morning Showdown. Still, we’re sticking with a new dress watch released this week, the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage. Thomas will defend it against the Serica Parade, represented by Daan. If you […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Vs. Serica Parade 1174 to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 -  Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Oct 31, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 - Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

Welcome to the second match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a duo of proper heavy hitters. Match two in round one sees Jorg defending the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. Daan will make his case for […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 - Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH368 Welcome Oct 28, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368

Welcome to the first round of the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. If you thought we’d kick the series off quietly, you are mistaken. The first match in round 1 immediately sees a major clash of entirely different watchmaking philosophies. Lex defends the Grand […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Oct 26, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another epic watch battle. In this week’s showdown, we selected two stainless steel and gold watches with integrated bracelets to go up against each other. The first is the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in steel and yellow gold. Released just a few weeks ago, it’s a proper statement […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black” Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Oct 19, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black”

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We’ve had a couple of battles between dressy watches in the previous weeks, so we thought it would be good to return to our more regular program of proper sports watches. This week, Omega launched its updated Dark Side of the Moon collection, which we couldn’t […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black” to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Fratello
Longines Oct 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx

It’s Sunday morning again, so it’s time to grab a cup of coffee and enjoy another one of our showdowns. Last week, we put two dressier moonphase watches from Longines and Tudor up against each other. This week, we’re staying on the dressier end of the watch-design spectrum. However, we’ll do so with two more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx to read the full article.

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...