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Time+Tide
“Just stop your cryin’, it’s a sign of the times, we gotta get away from here” – Harry Styles, ‘Sign of the Times’ ‘ The lyric above doesn’t pertain to the phenomena of the Watch Flex, but taken out of context, it’s oddly fitting. It wasn’t that long ago that Instagram and Facebook became quite … ContinuedThe post Is ‘no purchase history’ the biggest watch flex of 2022? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having signed Ferrari as a partner last year, Richard Mille was expected to debut a Ferrari wristwatch – and probably one with a seven-figure price tag. And so it has, although the watch itself is certainly a surprise. The first watch to result from the partnership is the RM UP-01 Ferrari, the thinnest mechanical watch ever at just 1.75 mm high, besting the previous record holder by 0.05 mm. Very wide and extremely flat, the RM UP-01 achieves that by relying on familiar principles in terms of mechanical deconstruction and reduction, but takes them slightly further to shave off the millimetres. Initial thoughts The last couple of years have seen the record for the thinnest mechanical watch change hands rapidly, with Piaget taking the title in 2018 with the AUC (that came to market in 2020), followed by Bulgari earlier this year with the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Italian jeweller did not retain the crown for long because Richard Mille has just claimed the title with the RM UP-01 that stands 1.75 mm high, compared to 1.8 mm for the Bulgari. Tellingly, the approach taken by Richard Mille echoes that of Piaget and Bulgari, essentially deconstructing the movement and doing away with as many components as possible. As a result, the RM UP-01 has parallels with the former record holders, most obviously in the tiny time display as well as the deconstructed winding and setting mechanism that each require a key. That indicates that absolute thinness has more or less been achieved...
Hodinkee
A glowing, sophisticated, and well-made dive watch, but is it worth the price tag?
Time+Tide
The heart of any watch is the calibre inside of it. This engine, which we refer to as a movement, is aptly named considering it is often what horological nerds find the most moving thing about a watch. In honour of this key component of a watch, below are ten prompts which will require you … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #12 “Legendary Movements” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Does anyone really care how many jewels their watch has? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy thinks that you’d be surprised how many people do as they've been duped by a vintage practice of announcing the amount of movement jewels on watch dials. What is the real story here?
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Hodinkee
Bright colors, cool features, and a wallet-friendly price tag make this watch a heck of a lot of fun.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: These videos for our Every Watch Tells A Story series were filmed off-the-cuff at the Time+Tide Club Christmas party. Here, Editor Luke tells the story about how he lost his watch and learned that “vintage” is sometime just a euphemism for old and decrepit. At the end of 2018, I quit my day … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “My Vacheron had disappeared from my wrist” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...
Time+Tide
Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The United States of America is home to many fine jewelry and watch retailers, many of them family owned, nearly all of them the product of an inspiring story of American entrepreneurship and perseverance. Here we showcase our choices for the Top 100 Jewelers in America, with each state represented by at least one exceptional business, in alphabetical order by state. Along the way, we’ll name a few important watch brands carried at each retailer, and share some tidbits about their histories, awards and honors, and local charitable efforts in their communities. Alabama Bromberg & Co. Being in business for more than 185 years has allowed Bromberg to establish a solid reputation in Alabama for selling jewelry timepieces, engagement rings, and gifts. In fact, it is the oldest business operating in the entire state. City: BirminghamStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: Rolex, TAG Heuer, Raymond Weil, Victorinox, & more Ware Jewelers This is a jewelry store that considers its customers to be friends, and it delivers service as if that were the case. Ware Jewelers was founded in 1946 and has strived to hold its strong reputation ever since. City: MontgomeryStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: OMEGA, TAG Heuer, David Yurman & more Alaska Zhaveri Caribbean Gems Established in 1986, Zhaveri Caribbean Gems has been serving its local community for over 30 years. It is uniquely positioned in the busies...
Quill & Pad
GaryG was invited to Los Angeles for the opening of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rodeo Drive boutique and was a promised “special surprise” that turned out to be a lovely exhibit of heritage pieces drawn from the brand’s vault. Here he shares his experiences of the event and the watches.
Time+Tide
Back in October, we covered the Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana – a montre d’école inspired limited edition crafted and assembled by master watchmaker Luca Soprana. The watch was a limited edition of 11 pieces, and, considering all the hand-craftsmanship that went into building each watch it expectedly carried quite a price tag … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Louis Erard x Massena LAB team up to debut two frosty Le Régulateur limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...
Quill & Pad
At Watches and Wonders 2022, Martin Green was impressed with the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer, a striking watch with a yellow gold case and a forest-green dial. So he made a little video for Instagram that went viral. Here he explains why.
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Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Andrew here, and it just dawned on me as I read this piece by Fergus that the true modern master of democratisation, Dan Henry, has not only done it again with an “evocation of an era” as Ferg eloquently puts it. No, it’s more than that. In 2022, after a wave of desire … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1945 offers rugged WW2-era style for the same price as a MoonSwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“May I have your full attention? This is one of the most important watches ever.” As Sotheby’s auctioneer Benoît Colson opened lot 72 on May 10, 2022, the room seemed to hold its collective breath for a moment. He continued, “The personal Royal Oak of Gérald Genta – you could not dream of a better provenance for a Royal Oak, an Audemars Piguet, or even any wristwatch.” And here's how the world record price for a vintage AP Royal Oak went down from an eyewitness.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: John Karambelas is the man behind @barnfindwatches, an Instagram account that documents his watch-collecting adventures as he attempts to uncover old watches gathering dust in flea markets and thrift stores across America. Here, John shares the story of his ultimate barn find, which he randomly stumbled upon while driving through the Mojave Desert. … ContinuedThe post The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Master Control was first conceived in 1992 as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best offering in terms of accuracy and reliability, with every watch undergoing a 1,000-hour, in-house quality control test. While the rigorous testing was fairly novel at the time, it has since become the norm for all Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) watches. But the Master Control line has lived on. Facelifted in 2020, the Master Control watches have grown moderately in size to suit contemporary states but they retain the restrained design that characterised the original range. Most of the models sport a muted silver dial, but for the 30th anniversary of the collection, JLC has introduced the Master Control Date and Master Control Calendar with tri-tone blue dials. The simpler of the duo – the Master Control Date Initial thoughts My first impression of the watches is positive. Blue is a contemporary colour that nudges the aesthetic towards a more casual style, as opposed to the retro-formal look of the standard, silver-dial models. Notably, the limited-edition pair are ore than a change of colour. The thoughtful design is evident through the details, especially with the tri-tone finish of the dial. While blue can be found practically everywhere in watchmaking, tri-tone blue is unusual and attractive. And the calendar windows reveal discs that are in blue to match the dial. The red accents as well as the starry background of the moon phase are details that make the dial more interesting Both watches are othe...
Quill & Pad
Patrik Sjögren of GoS was already active on Instagram in support of Ukraine in early March, at which time he saw an opportunity to help in the form of a collaboration with artist Matthew Miller (@sunflowerman.watch). The result is the GoS Northern Lights for Ukraine Norrsken unique piece now being auctioned by Sotheby's. Elizabeth Doerr explains what it is and how it came about here.
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Time+Tide
It’s easy to understand the dangerous appeal of online auction platform, Loupe This. For a start, it’s co-owned by internationally renowned watch dealer / super-collector, Eric Ku (read this story about his crazy life here). As a result of his know-how and connections, the product on offer is always intriguing. “What we want to do, is … ContinuedThe post Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Here Elizabeth Doerr brings you the results of Ineichen's Precious Blues auction on April 23, 2022, including eight less mainstream picks.
Quill & Pad
Back in December 2020 a teaser trailer was released for a then-upcoming feature documentary called 'Keeper of Time.' Elizabeth Doerr was quite excited by the trailer and couldn’t wait for its final release. Well, that release has finally come, and she has had the chance to preview it. She shares her (very positive) thoughts about the film here.
Quill & Pad
Most of the timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2022 were from the higher end of fine watchmaking as most of the participants constitute the haute horlogerie maisons of the world. There were however a few notable exceptions – notable and affordable. Here Łukasz Doskocz highlights some of the showstoppers from the Palexpo halls that will hopefully not break your bank.
Hodinkee
The indie superstar's 2022 hero piece highlights the influence of early 2000s watchmaking.
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