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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Finally A New Speedmaster Reduced? Hands-On With The Redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster 38 Omega Aug 25, 2026

Finally A New Speedmaster Reduced? Hands-On With The Redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38

Omega is introducing a new Speedmaster 38 collection. For a long time, Omega offered a serious alternative to the famous Moonwatch for those who wanted a smaller automatic version. The Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50 was in production from 1988 to around 2010. In its final years, demand for the 42mm hand-wound Speedmaster Professional was simply higher. […] Visit Finally A New Speedmaster Reduced? Hands-On With The Redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38 to read the full article.

First Look - Omega Refreshes the Speedmaster 38mm Collection, Including a Moonwatch-Like Black No-Date (with Video) Monochrome
Omega Refreshes Aug 25, 2026

First Look - Omega Refreshes the Speedmaster 38mm Collection, Including a Moonwatch-Like Black No-Date (with Video)

When talking about the Speedmaster, most watch enthusiasts will immediately think about “The One”, the legendary Moonwatch Professional model. An evolution of the concept launched in 1957, the first watch worn on the Moon, and the only watch ever approved for NASA’s missions to the Moon, this iconic watch is only one element of a vast collection […]

Introducing: A New Generation Of The Omega Speedmaster 38 MM Hodinkee
Omega Speedmaster 38 MM What Aug 25, 2026

Introducing: A New Generation Of The Omega Speedmaster 38 MM

What We Know Say goodbye to oval subdials—Omega just announced a complete refresh of the brand's midsize Speedmaster 38mm collection. In total, there are seven new models replacing the outgoing lineup. The black-dialed variant, ref 324.30.38.50.01.002, draws on the look of the classic Moonwatch. 324.30.38.50.04.001 324.30.38.50.02.003 If the previous generation of the Speedmaster 38mm took a more luxe, fashion-forward approach, the new design language returns to form with more Moonwatch-adjacent styling. Not only are the oval subdials gone, but the bezel also takes a more traditional turn with a classic wide insert.  The Moonwatch reference is even more pointed with the inclusion of the dot-over-ninety numbering on the insert's tachymeter, as well as an updated bracelet that feels like a shrunken-down version of the current five-link Moonwatch bracelet, down to the clasp with Omega's "comfort release" micro-adjust system that offers two positions and 2.3mm of adjustment. Across the board, the new refresh also sees a cleaned-up dial with less printed text and an applied Omega logo at 12 o'clock. Across the seven new variations, three are set in steel—a matte black Moonwatch-like dial with a black aluminum insert (and no date window at six o'clock), a glossy lacquered white dial with blue ceramic bezel insert (not too far off from the Milano Cortina edition we saw released last October), and a silver dial with a grey aluminum bezel insert and PVD-coated Sedna Gold hands...

Silent Sleepers: The Best Watch Releases No One Talks About Fratello
Aug 25, 2026

Silent Sleepers: The Best Watch Releases No One Talks About

Every once in a while, I come across a great watch that makes me think, “Ah, yes, how could I forget about this release?” Multiple watches are released every day. Some get dedicated events, while others are subject to massive hype on social media. Many releases, however, don’t get the attention they deserve right from […] Visit Silent Sleepers: The Best Watch Releases No One Talks About to read the full article.

An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art Fratello
Aug 24, 2026

An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art

There is no shame in admitting you’ve never heard of something. You know the tourbillon is a little mechanical anti-gravity device, so to speak. The cônillon, however, is very rare. It is a tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. The concept traces back to […] Visit An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.

The New Straum Expedition: Built For Those Who Crave Adventure Fratello
Ming ly beautiful scenes Aug 24, 2026

The New Straum Expedition: Built For Those Who Crave Adventure

Are you looking for a watch representing the overwhelmingly beautiful scenes of Norwegian nature? Straum has you covered with the Jan Mayen line. But what if you want a watch to actually wear on an adventure or expedition to experience Norwegian nature firsthand? That’s where the new Straum Expedition comes in. The new Expedition is […] Visit The New Straum Expedition: Built For Those Who Crave Adventure to read the full article.

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Aug 24, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare

Last week I kicked off a mini-series where I'm finally taking some great books off my shelf and sharing them with the world. We covered a brand-backed "Grand Seiko" book by ERG Media, which set a great tone. This week we're looking at another brand-focused tome, the much more recently released "Universal People, Universal Dreams," which documents the hyper-focused collection of one man. But it's more than a book about Universal Genève. I first met the author and publisher, Luca Mignini, a few years ago, though I'm not exactly sure where. Maybe at an auction in Geneva? At some point, he just turned into a fixture in my vintage watch sphere, a person who could turn up anywhere there was a vintage watch. At the famed antique fair in Parma, Italy? Sure. Luca Mignini and Max Bernardini He had a prototype Universal Genève Space Compax/Polerouter Sub dive watch made for the U.S. Navy, which I shared in my photo report from the fair. On that same trip, he just randomly showed up as I was looking at Patek 1518 dials with Max Bernardini (Uncle Max, to his close friends) at his shop right across the street from "The Last Supper" in Milan. That later encounter makes sense, as Bernardini (and his team, including Mauricio Gimenez, who is named as "The Trusted Advisor" in the book) was instrumental in curating the collection. Mignini frequently travels between his home in Rome and Milan, where he serves as a professor at Bocconi University.  During the COVID-19 pandemic, Mignini and B...

Wren Introduces the Diver One Abyss Worn & Wound
Wren Aug 24, 2026

Wren Introduces the Diver One Abyss

Are you afraid of the dark? No, really—it’s one of the most common phobias and for good reason. The dark represents the unknown, the impossible, and the very idea of danger. And while that uncertainty often leads to an understandable (and innately biological) fear reaction, it also makes the dark exciting beyond measure. Why else would we send divers down to the crushingly dark abyss of the deep ocean? New York City-based microbrand Wren has taken that question head on, and turned it into a dive piece that embodies the environment it’s inspired by: The Wren Diver One Abyss. The single most striking thing about the Abyss is, of course, its namesake. The dial is black, with a black bezel, but it’s not a “normal” black; instead, Wren has made use of the Koyo Orient Japan-derived Musou Black water-based acrylic paint that absorbs 99.4% of visible light. Unlike other such “superblack” paints, like the infamous Vantablack, Musou Black is commercially available, and while it’s not quite as dark as the former, it bears a lot of similarities in composition. Koyo keeps the full breakdown close to their proverbial chest, but basically, what makes it “darker than dark” is its ability to bounce light back out, giving the human eye nothing to latch onto. This makes the color read as bottomless, giving it a strange, disconcerting “depth”, which Wren furthers by using a sandwich construction method for the markings and indexes (additionally coated with Super-Lumi...

Introducing - The Peacock Black Hole III Curved Guilloche Central Tourbillon; Bold, Complex yet Attainable Monochrome
Omega Aug 24, 2026

Introducing - The Peacock Black Hole III Curved Guilloche Central Tourbillon; Bold, Complex yet Attainable

The tourbillon, one of the most fascinating technical devices created, remains today a technical challenge that often comes at a cost. And when it comes to centrally positioned tourbillons, the landscape becomes even narrower. Only a handful of watches, mostly from independent watchmakers or high-end brands, feature this specific regulator: Omega (the first on the […]

The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” - Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3 Fratello
Minase Aug 24, 2026

The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” - Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3

As time passes, you often accumulate stuff. Visualize what’s in your attic, and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Now, Minase is doing the opposite. The new J3 is a model inspired by the M3, but instead of adding details to that watch, Minase removes what it deems unnecessary. You’re looking at the evolution of […] Visit The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” — Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3 to read the full article.

Why I Bought The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710 Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref 16710 Aug 24, 2026

Why I Bought The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710

This summer, I finally realized a lifelong dream — owning a Rolex GMT-Master II. More specifically, I always wanted Rolex’s famous pilot and traveler’s watch with a red-and-blue bezel. As fate would have it, I bought mine the same year Rolex discontinued that configuration from the current catalog. That decision didn’t influence my purchase, though. […] Visit Why I Bought The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710 to read the full article.

Parmigiani Fleurier And The Collector’s Path Beyond The Obvious Brands Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Aug 23, 2026

Parmigiani Fleurier And The Collector’s Path Beyond The Obvious Brands

The journey of a watch collector often unfolds like the passage of time itself. In many ways, it is sequential, but it is often marked by profound moments of discovery. For so many of us, we begin our collecting journey by learning about the well-known names. Brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe rise […] Visit Parmigiani Fleurier And The Collector’s Path Beyond The Obvious Brands to read the full article.

Spending Time With The New Ollech & Wajs Early Bird EB-24 Fratello
Aug 23, 2026

Spending Time With The New Ollech & Wajs Early Bird EB-24

There are watches named after places, people, and the animals their designers admired on long-ago fishing trips. And then there is the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird, a watch named after a satellite. I liked this watch so much that I bought the re-edition. I have a bit of a long-term fascination with the Swiss […] Visit Spending Time With The New Ollech & Wajs Early Bird EB-24 to read the full article.

The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches Fratello
Aug 22, 2026

The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches

Today, we have a slightly different story here on Fratello. This is the experience of one New Zealand photographer who has been diligently capturing the mechanical lives of pocket watches at the Tāmaki Paenga Hira Auckland Museum. There’s a big difference between commercial watch photography and museum archiving. Commercial photography is about selling a fantasy […] Visit The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement - Could We Catch The Purple “Butterfly” Inside? Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement — Aug 22, 2026

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement - Could We Catch The Purple “Butterfly” Inside?

Why use a traditional, coiled balance spring when you can use a 14-micron-wide and 120-micron-“thick” silicon blade instead? With the latter, Girard-Perregaux set out to overcome the inherent challenge of fluctuating power delivery in mechanical watches. The goal for the 235-year-old Swiss watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds was to achieve consistently superior precision. The quest involves […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement — Could We Catch The Purple “Butterfly” Inside? to read the full article.

Maen Jumps on the Stone Dial Bandwagon with New Versions of Its Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin Worn & Wound
Maen Jumps Aug 21, 2026

Maen Jumps on the Stone Dial Bandwagon with New Versions of Its Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin

Ahead of the launch of the new stone dial editions of Maen’s Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin, I got to test drive the Obsidian Snowflake variation. This was my first time seeing one of the models from the collection in the metal in addition to previewing one of the new dial materials. While stone dials have been used in watchmaking for decades and aren’t an entirely novel trend, I do feel they’ve been a bit overdone. However, I tried to put aside my eye roll for yet another stone dial and appreciate what’s interesting about these particular executions. So, here are my hot takes after going hands on. First off, I have to give the brand credit for the choice of the stones for the collection, which are relatively unique. Instead of the typical trifecta of tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and malachite, Maen has opted for onyx, golden swan, and obsidian snowflake. While onyx is another mainstay, you can’t go wrong with the classic look of an all-black dial, this time with a stone twist. Moving on, I’ll admit even as the resident woo-woo girl, I was not too familiar with golden swan. Even though I didn’t see this one in person, the photos look gorgeous – the mix of rust and black give the same versatile look as your go-to tortoise shell sunglasses. This variant seems like it would literally go with everything and make a great daily wear. Saving the obsidian snowflake for last, this stone is perhaps the most artful and offbeat of the lot. If you’re a person who loves neutr...

Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” Aug 21, 2026

Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand

Customisation or unique pieces are nothing new in the Swiss watch industry, but are usually reserved for high horology or smaller ateliers, necessitating a level of flexibility that more established and mainstream brands can hardly achieve. That said, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with a unique piece recently that, besides its intrinsic singularity […]

The Top 5 Omega Models From The 1990s Fratello
Omega Models From Aug 21, 2026

The Top 5 Omega Models From The 1990s

Another Friday, another list! This week, we follow up on last week’s list that was based on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks three weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the ’90s as our favorite because new technology significantly improved overall […] Visit The Top 5 Omega Models From The 1990s to read the full article.

Orient Mako Gets a GMT for the First Time in Five Cool Colors WatchRider
Oris ed UK retailer Aug 20, 2026

Orient Mako Gets a GMT for the First Time in Five Cool Colors

Orient has given its long-running Mako sports watch a GMT function for the first time. Five references have appeared for the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, comprising four regular models and one 4,000-piece limited edition. The watches were listed as in stock by an authorised UK retailer on 20 August 2026. Orient’s own global catalogue and press archive had not yet added them at the time of writing, so broader regional availability remains unconfirmed. A Larger Mako With Familiar Equipment The Mako GMT uses a 42.8 mm case made from brushed and polished 316L stainless steel. It measures 49.5 mm from lug to lug and 13.4 mm thick, making this a substantial watch rather than a compact travel companion. Each version has a sapphire crystal, a solid caseback and 20 bar, or 200 metres, of water resistance. The three-link steel bracelet has solid end pieces and a deployant clasp. Around the dial is a 120-notch unidirectional bezel carrying a 24-hour scale instead of the usual elapsed-time markings. The New F6P22 Automatic GMT Calibre Inside is Orient’s F6P22 automatic GMT movement. The current listings state a power reserve of approximately 40 hours, hacking seconds and an accuracy range of +25 to -15 seconds per day. The movement drives the normal hour, minute and seconds hands, the date at 3 o’clock and a fourth central hand that completes one turn every 24 hours. There is an important limitation. The GMT hand cannot be adjusted independently on this first version. To show ...

Introducing - The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, now with Mother-of-Pearl Dial Monochrome
Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80 Aug 20, 2026

Introducing - The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, now with Mother-of-Pearl Dial

To say that the PRX collection by Tissot is wide would be a genuine understatement… The range is vast, comprising classic automatic versions, quartz models, several sizes (40mm, 38mm, 35mm and even 25mm recently), standard steel editions, but also unexpected materials (titanium, damascuss steel, carbon) and all the colours you can imagine. And here, I’m […]

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aug 20, 2026

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, we see the debut of a new haute horlogerie brand, brought to us in part by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and the Rake, and a longtime fixture in the watch media landscape. The new brand, Legare, was founded by Koh and Guillaume Tetu, a watch industry veteran who counts Hautlence as well as TAG Heuer and Ralph Lauren on his resume. Koh and Tetu are incredibly well connected professionally, and the first watch out of the gate for Legare reflects that particularly well – this is the product of a lot of collaboration between many partners, and has plenty of pure watch nerd DNA in its inspiration as well.  The brand’s first watch is the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, and takes inspiration from a rare pocket watch made by Albert-Gustave Piguet, who would ultimately become well known in the watch industry for his work on the Lemania 2310 caliber. But the watch that Legare credits with shaping the Chapter 1 is a pocket watch he created while a student at the Vallee de Joux School of Watchmaking in 1932, when he was just 17 years old. That watch featured two large split bi-metallic balance wheels, whose rates were averaged by a differential. According to Legare, only six total examples of this pocket watch were completed.  Legare’s conceit in making the Chapter 1 is essentially an answer to the hypothetical question of what if Piguet’s idea behind this movement had continued to evolve? This is an entirely original movement architecture (and diff...

First Look - The new Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue Monochrome
Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue Aug 20, 2026

First Look - The new Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue

Independent watchmaking brand Czapek introduced the Promenade collection in 2024 as a more classic and elegant vision of its contemporary watchmaking. Since then, the model has been used for several creative dial executions, such as the Plissé, Diamond Drops, and Goutte de Rosée editions, as well as the Promenade Transparencies Viridian Green, made in collaboration […]