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8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents Quill & Pad
De Bethune Alain Silberstein Apr 15, 2022

8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents

There is a watch auctioneer focusing on bringing beauty into auctions rather than chasing world records by concentrating on (the) two highly popular brands: Ineichen based in Zurich. And here Elizabeth Doerr highlights eight timepieces in its next auction that she thinks we should be paying special attention to when others might not be. Ineichen's Precious Blues auction takes place on April 23, 2022.

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Rado Apr 7, 2022

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce Apr 6, 2022

VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars

This is a year of celestial celebration for Jaeger-LeCoultre with “The Stellar Odyssey” collection paying tribute to the centuries-old marriage of astronomy and horology in the most breathtaking ways. A few examples of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches & Wonders releases truly stand out from the crowd, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Apr 6, 2022

INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Gloriously blending modern design and classic watchmaking savoir-faire, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton screams grail watch in any situation. It sits at the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas lineup and deserves its place in the pantheon of the complicated sports watch. Housing a beautifully executed skeletonised perpetual calendar calibre in a case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega SJX Watches
Omega Perhaps Mar 24, 2022

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega

Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars. The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic Initial thoughts The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable. But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch. Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch. As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real d...

Four tips to avoid getting scammed when selling a watch online Time+Tide
Mar 14, 2022

Four tips to avoid getting scammed when selling a watch online

As technology has evolved, online marketplaces have fundamentally changed the game when it comes to collecting. Rare objects that once required months or even years of searching through local stores to find are now just a google search away, most likely with a hefty price tag attached. Unfortunately, scammers have done well to evolve along with … ContinuedThe post Four tips to avoid getting scammed when selling a watch online appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why The 2022 Watches And Wonders Geneva Might Be The Last Of Its Kind Quill & Pad
Mar 12, 2022

Why The 2022 Watches And Wonders Geneva Might Be The Last Of Its Kind

As GaryG prepares for his trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders 2022, the demise of Baselworld is very much on his mind. It seems to him that the era of all-inclusive mega watch shows is rapidly coming to an end. The natural implication is that Watches and Wonders Geneva will be the next exhibition to change radically or that it will even cease to exist. Here he explains why.

Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2022

Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces

Ineichen Auctioneers’ first auction of 2022, aptly entitled “La Vie en Rose,” takes place in Zurich and online on March 12, 2022. As the name of this auction professes, all 40 of the watches offered are encased in pink – “rose” – gold. Here, Elizabeth Doerr highlights five of the less “mainstream” independent offerings and one rarity from an established brand that will certainly interest connoisseurs.

Omega Introduces the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 8, 2022

Omega Introduces the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m

Omega has just taken the covers off a slew of new watches for 2022, but the standout is doubtlessly the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m. The Ultra Deep began with a trio of experimental Ultra Deep watches that completed a 12-hour dive strapped onto the exterior of a submersible, reaching 10,935 m, or 35,876 ft, the deepest any human or watch has ever dived according to Omega. The experimental watch – which was rated to 15,000 m – has evolved into the commercially-available Ultra Deep, which is Omega’s capable dive watch. While having half the depth rating of the experimental model, the Ultra Deep 6000 m is much more wearable with a diameter of 45.5 mm, similar to that of a Planet Ocean 600 m, albeit with a case thickness of 18.12 mm. The experimental watch, on the other hand, was almost 28 mm thick. And needless to say, the Ultra Deep is a saturation diver’s watch, but one constructed impermeable to gases, explaining the lack of a helium escape valve. Initial thoughts Omega’s top-tier dive watches have always been thick, but the Ultra Deep takes it to the next level. With its enormous case, the Ultra Deep is probably not very wearable, but that’s an integral feature of a dive watch like this. It is so overbuilt that it doesn’t really make sense, but that’s what makes the Ultra Deep cool. While the technical achievement of the depth rating is impressive, the Ultra Deep is notable for more than just raw numbers. Among its novel features is O-Megast...

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2022

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku

Outside the weather was freezing with temperatures down to minus 10°C. But in the driver’s seat of the hire car skittering over the icy roads, Eric Ku was sweating.  At stake was a huge opportunity that could kick-start his career as a watch dealer. But only if he made it in time. It was 2002, … ContinuedThe post “Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads: The watch meetup and its importance to the modern collector Time+Tide
Feb 17, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: The watch meetup and its importance to the modern collector

As things slowly get back to normal in this (fingers crossed) post-pandemic world, the number of physical watch events continues to grow. As a result, in the span of two weeks, I recently found myself being pulled in multiple directions. New watch release over here, 2022 collection reveal over there… Ten days in, I was … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: The watch meetup and its importance to the modern collector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch SJX Watches
Feb 16, 2022

Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch

Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...

In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Feb 14, 2022

In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping

For an uncompromising mechanical watch enthusiast, one of the most dreaded words in the specifications of a watch is surely “quartz”. Oftentimes that dread is followed by the thought, if only it was mechanical… I must admit this went through my mind when I discovered the lovely Cartier Santos Dumont in 2019. And that was despite Cartier’s best efforts in communicating that the movement inside was a long-autonomy quartz calibre with a six-year battery life. The Cartier Santos Dumont trio, with only the XL variant (extreme left) being mechanical In the time since, I began to ponder the question: why do I seek the latest electronic gadgets, but am dismissive towards quartz watches? Just because quartz movements are often cheap and easily available, does that leave them uniformly uninteresting? The Quartz Crisis On Monday, December 29, 1969, tucked somewhere in the The New York Times was an eight-line paragraph that ended with “[the] world’s first electronic wrist watch with a crystal oscillator.” That electronic watch, as you may have guessed, was the Seiko Quartz-Astron. It was barely obvious at the time, but the announcement, innocuous as it was, would be the harbinger of a crisis for Swiss watchmaking. The father of all quartz watches, the Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ in 18K yellow gold The Quartz-Astron cost as much as a Toyota Corolla at the time of of its release – its price was equivalent to about US$1,200 – and was without a doubt a luxury product. Ov...

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...