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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Into the Blue: Czapek’s Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue  SJX Watches
Czapek s Promenade Transparencies Aqua Aug 20, 2026

Into the Blue: Czapek’s Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue 

In the lead up to Geneva Watch Days, Czapek has unveiled the Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue — a gradient blue variant of a sapphire-dialled dress watch the brand released in late 2024. The watch breaks little new ground but the blue-on-blue look reveals a keen eye and an awareness of colour theory. Initial thoughts I have mixed feelings about sapphire dials, but I liked Czapek’s approach to opening up the Promenade when the brand launched its “Viridian Green” collaboration with Fratello in 2024. The “Aqua Blue” edition gets many of the same things right, with a dark-enough tint that the exposed movement elements don’t overwhelm the design. In fact, at some angles, the exposed movement looks more like a graphic element, akin to the Octo Finissimo Automatic BVL 138 Sketch. On the wrist, when the movement is not back-lit, the dial appears much darker, and the movement components are even less obvious. This split personality extends to the overall format of the Promenade, which is conveniently sized at 38 mm and is about 11 mm thick. The latter dimension is a bit chunky for an automatic dress watch with a micro-rotor movement, but it gives the watch a robust, almost sporty feel. And the extra thickness likely contributes to the reassuring 50 m test depth. An optional milanese-style steel bracelet completes the transformation from dressy to sporty, should one wish to do it all with one watch. A close look reveals thousands of printed dots that are responsible...

First Look - Cleaner and More Compact, The new Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Monochrome
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Glashütte Original Aug 20, 2026

First Look - Cleaner and More Compact, The new Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph

Glashütte Original has a long history with chronographs, going back more than 80 years to the development of wristwatches for short-time measurement in the Saxon watchmaking town. Among the important chapters in that history was the UROFA calibre 59, developed in the early 1940s as one of the first modern Glashütte wristwatch chronographs. The contemporary […]

A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Aug 20, 2026

A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary

Over the past few years, we have seen great changes within the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms lineup. The brand celebrated the 70th anniversary of its iconic diver in multiple “acts.” On top of that, Blancpain created a full collection of Fifty Fathoms models in different sizes, offering something for everyone and addressing an issue many enthusiasts […] Visit A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary to read the full article.

First Look - Blancpain Goes Vintage with the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Monochrome
Blancpain Goes Vintage Aug 20, 2026

First Look - Blancpain Goes Vintage with the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary

While the fact that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was one of the earliest dive watches on the market is now well-known, this professional, mostly military-issued model wasn’t the only one produced by the brand. There is another watch in the collection that was created back in 1956, as the civilian counterpart to the Fifty Fathoms […]

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30 Monochrome
Minerva Aug 19, 2026

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

Minerva‘s Unveiled Chronograph series is an exercise in turning conventional watchmaking inside out. Instead of hiding the movement under the dial, which would require taking the watch off the wrist to admire its calibre through the display caseback, the manufacture reverses its architecture, making the chronograph mechanism and its distinctive hand-finished components the main attraction […]

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status Hodinkee
Aug 19, 2026

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status

This story is a special presentation from Hodinkee Japan, written and illustrated by Masaharu Wada, the Deputy Editor-in-Chief for Hodinkee Japan.  For a young brand to revisit roughly 98 percent of the movement components in a GPHG-winning watch after receiving the award might ordinarily sound like cause for concern. But when I visited Fam al Hut's workshop in Taicang, Jiangsu Province, China, I came away feeling almost the opposite. More than anything else, that fact seemed to capture exactly where the brand stands today. A large industrial elevator takes you to the second floor, where the doors open onto a long central corridor. To the right, behind glass walls, designers and engineers gather around technical drawings. To the left is a production floor lined with five CNC machines and other machine tools. Farther inside are a prototyping room, a finishing department, a clean room for movement assembly, a quality-control room, a stockroom, and even a dedicated room housing a femtosecond laser machine. Not everything is made here. Cases and sapphire crystals, among other components, still come from outside suppliers. What Fam al Hut has built, however, is an environment in which it can control the design, prototyping, machining, assembly, testing, and continued development of its movements. For such a young independent brand, the scale of the operation was far beyond what I had expected. Fam al Hut was founded in 2024. The following year, its debut watch, the MARK 1 Möb...

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire Monochrome
Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire

Henri Grandjean (1803-1879) was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, renowned for his precision marine chronometers and for his pioneering role in Swiss chronometry. The name was recently revived by entrepreneur and collector Sohail Aziz and positioned as an independent brand specialising in exquisite high-end contemporary haute horlogerie. Making an impressive debut, Henri Grandjean & […]

Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch Fratello
Ming up Aug 19, 2026

Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch

Drumming up a list of the watch world’s biggest icons is easy. While we can debate what constitutes a true icon, we can probably agree that such watches defined a category and had a lasting impact on the current watch landscape. That’s not the discussion we want to have, though. In this new series of […] Visit Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch to read the full article.

A Look at the New Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics: Models C029.462.16.011.00 and C029.462.26.051.00 WatchRider
Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics Models Aug 18, 2026

A Look at the New Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics: Models C029.462.16.011.00 and C029.462.26.051.00

Over the years, I have added a few Certina watches to my collection. I enjoy wearing them because the brand consistently delivers timepieces that are well-made and nice to look at. Certina has a reputation for building solid, reliable watches, and my personal experience with them has confirmed this. Recently, they introduced two new models to their DS-1 Chronograph Automatic lineup: reference C029.462.16.011.00 and reference C029.462.26.051.00. I took some time to look closely at these releases to see what they offer. Both of these new chronographs share the same core foundation. They are housed in a 42-millimeter case made from 316L stainless steel. This size gives the watch a substantial presence on the wrist without being overly bulky. Inside both watches beats the Valjoux A05.231 automatic movement. This is a movement that features a silicon hairspring, which helps protect the watch from magnetic fields. It also provides a generous 68-hour power reserve. This means you can take the watch off on a Friday evening, and it will still be running on Monday morning. As part of Certina’s Double Security concept, both models are water-resistant up to 100 meters and feature a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Model C029.462.16.011.00: Clean and Classic Style The first model is the more traditional of the two. It features a crisp white dial set inside a polished silver-tone case. The dial layout is very clean, displaying the time, the date, and the chronograph sub-dials in a ...

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium Monochrome
Tutima Aug 18, 2026

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium

Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]

Jacques Bianchi Introduces their First Watch in Partnership with the Olympique de Marseille Football Club Worn & Wound
Timex x Nigel Cabourn “Referee Aug 18, 2026

Jacques Bianchi Introduces their First Watch in Partnership with the Olympique de Marseille Football Club

Jacques Bianchi, the Marseille based brand specializing in dive watches, has released the first watch in what is expected to be an ongoing partnership with Olympique de Marseille, the city’s historic football club. This has been a big summer for soccer, of course, with the World Cup being held in North America right in the middle of summer, and if your individual case of football fever hasn’t exactly been cured yet, the new diver based on the brand’s popular JB200 platform might be of interest. And even if it’s not, it’s an interesting diversion from Jacques Bianchi that might point to some broader ambition from the brand as it relates to artistic craft, and chronometry.  First, let me say that while I have no particular allegiance to Olympique de Marseille, I have a soft spot for soccer watches. The first watch I bought after writing about it for Worn & Wound was a Timex x Nigel Cabourn “Referee Watch,” which sits on my desk to this day, ticking away. Soccer of course has a unique approach to timing among the major team sports in that a clock counts up to the end of a 45 minute half, with the referee having a great deal of latitude to add time to the clock at his or discretion that takes into account the normal stoppages of play. This principle is further complicated by the fact that the referee solely holds this information – the clock counting up that players and spectators see in the stadium or on television is essentially always just an estimate. The ...

Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Fratello
TAG Heuer Hautlence Aug 18, 2026

Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

Meet a high-end watch brand built on a deep love for everything horological and ample experience to bring the founders’ original vision to life. Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and The Rake, and watch industry veteran Guillaume Tetu, who worked for TAG Heuer, Hautlence, and Ralph Lauren, started Legare to unearth long-lost horological treasures and […] Visit Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted to read the full article.

Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu Hodinkee
Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu

What We Know If you've been on "Watch Instagram" since Watches & Wonders, you've likely seen today's big launch. From the minds of Wei Koh and industry insider Guillaume Tetu, the new brand Legare (from the Latin meaning "to bequeath") has been shared around during an extended soft launch to potential clients and some press, starting back during the big watch fair. However, their first watch, the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, didn't officially launch until today, so if you've been looking for coverage and not finding it, that's why. The Chapter 1 AGP Inverted comes in two distinct executions and immediately caught my attention because of the reference that inspired it (and from which it takes its name). Because of that, it's a watch expressly made for deep-cut watch enthusiasts who know their history and appreciate independent watchmaking. In 1932, a 17-year-old student named Albert-Gustave Piguet undertook a watchmaking challenge that only five others at the Vallée de Joux School of Watchmaking would do from 1932 to 1934: he made a pocket watch regulated by two large split bimetallic balance wheels, averaged by a differential. These six examples are as coveted as they are influential to the watchmaking space. One inspired Philippe Dufour's "Duality." Even more influential was Piguet himself, who later worked at Lemania and on the caliber 2310. Now, his double-balance watch has been revived again by Legare. The watch closely resembles the movement of the Piguet pocket watch, wi...

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive Monochrome
Nomos Club Campus Full Rose Aug 17, 2026

Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive

Do you know many brands that embrace colour as confidently as Nomos Glashütte? Watchmakers often introduce brightly coloured dials as limited seasonal releases, yet Nomos has made them part of its identity, particularly within the Club Campus collection. We have seen everything from Future Orange and Absolute Grey to Starlight and Night Sky, Nonstop Red […]

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch? WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review Aug 17, 2026

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch?

I added the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 (Ref. WV211B.BA0787) to my collection back in 2019. Since then, I’ve been wearing it through various phases of daily life, travel and work. This review is not going to be filled with breathless hype or exaggerated claims about horological perfection. Instead, it is an honest, personal look at what it is actually like owning this specific Carrera. If you are considering buying one on the pre-owned market, this review is for you. And yes, we definitely need to talk about Inception. If you are short on time, here are the Pros and Cons The Pros: Timeless Dimensions: The 39mm case is extremely comfortable, versatile and avoids aging poorly with changing fashion trends.   Exceptional Build Quality: Punches well above its price point with crisp case edges, alternating polished and brushed steel, dual sapphire crystals and a beautifully finished bracelet. Cinematic Pedigree: While it shouldn’t be the only reason to buy a watch, the connection to Inception adds a layer of enjoyable history to the piece. Reliable Movement: The Calibre 5 is a robust, well-known movement that will never be difficult or exorbitantly expensive to maintain. The Cons: Water Resistance: 50 meters with a push-pull crown restricts this watch to land-based activities. Lug Width: The 19mm lug width makes sourcing third-party straps slightly inconvenient.   Lack of Clasp Adjustment: Achieving the perfect bracelet fit relies strictly on adding or removing h...

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 17, 2026

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre

Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre is an enthusiast’s delight. The watch that crystallized this for me is a Reverso Classique reference 252.8.86. It is a steel, manually wound example from the mid-2000s that recently crossed the block at auction. On paper, it is an unremarkable watch. No complications, no complications, and a relatively humble (for the brand) view […] Visit The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Aug 17, 2026

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa

The race might have finished, but the watch remains. The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa also looks good when you’re not behind the wheel of a Mercedes‑Benz 300 SL Gullwing storming the 968 meters-high Raticosa pass in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. This Lucent steel chronograph with its eggshell dial is an all-year, all-rounder that looks […] Visit Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa to read the full article.

The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over Fratello
Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Aug 16, 2026

The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over

Ask me about my current favorite Citizen models, and I’ll quickly point to the brand’s Series 8 watches. It’s Citizens’ collection of modern mechanical watches that falls somewhere between the high-end “The Citizen” line and the brand’s affordable offerings. The Series 8 collection was unveiled in 2021, and two years later, the brand added the […] Visit The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over to read the full article.

The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches Monochrome
Rolex Gérald Genta Aug 15, 2026

The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches

With few exceptions, metal bracelets are a 20th-century phenomenon, really surfacing in the 1920s as wristwatches became a cultural and fashion phenomenon. Three names are generally recognised as part of the rise of contemporary bracelets – Rolex, Gérald Genta and Gay Frères – although there’s much more to the story, and the latter arguably plays the […]