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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Biver AB Debuts As The Brand’s First Stainless Steel Watch With A New Manually Wound Movement Fratello
5 days ago

The Biver AB Debuts As The Brand’s First Stainless Steel Watch With A New Manually Wound Movement

Biver introduces its first stainless steel watch, the new AB, short for Acier Biver. Developed in response to customer demand, the AB combines a 38mm steel case with a remarkably slim 9.8mm profile and a brand-new manually wound movement. A sophisticated dial construction creates impressive depth, while the black-and-gold aesthetic delivers understated luxury rather than […] Visit The Biver AB Debuts As The Brand’s First Stainless Steel Watch With A New Manually Wound Movement to read the full article.

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel Hodinkee
5 days ago

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel

What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...

Introducing The Fears Arnos Opera Black: The Ultimate Black Tie Watch Fratello
Fears Arnos Opera Black 5 days ago

Introducing The Fears Arnos Opera Black: The Ultimate Black Tie Watch

Mozart’s Don Giovanni is regarded as one of the greatest operas of all time. The Commendatore’s story forms its moral and supernatural core. Don Giovanni, a serial libertine, kills the Commendatore in a duel. Later, after mocking a statue erected in memory of the father of Donna Anna, the woman he harassed in her quarters […] Visit Introducing The Fears Arnos Opera Black: The Ultimate Black Tie Watch to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Makes 5 days ago

De Rijke & Co. Makes the Capri Collection a Permanent Fixture of Its Catalog with Three Staple Colorways

At Windup last fall, De Rijke & Co. made a surprise unveiling of the Capri collection, marked by its distinctive ultra-thin rectangular case, unique curved sapphire crystal, integrated shrouded lugs, and stone dials. As the year went on, the brand made an official announcement about the line, launching a poster challenge featuring hidden Easter eggs and offering further previews at other industry events like Milan Watch Week. As the calendar page turned to 2026, pre-orders for the anticipated limited edition Capri finally opened for the initial iterations in black onyx, black aventurine, and blue capri produced in just 50 pieces each. Now, the brand ushers the model into its permanent catalog with three new dial colors: champagne, salmon, and silver. Within each dial variant, there is a balance of subtle nuances and stylistic throughlines. Each version carries a fine textured frosted dial composition that catches and diffuses the light, bringing out the broader spectrum of tones within each of the neutral colorways. De Rijke & Co. has made this effect deliberately subtle. Rather than relying on gloss or decoration, the dials reveal themselves through the curvature across the dial and crystal that’s a defining feature of the Capri. However, each dial shade also has its own cheeky personality. The salmon model offers a fresh take on a hue used throughout the history of watchmaking. Here, the warm pink tone is brought to life thanks to the contrast of the deep blue strap an...

Papar Puts a Twist on the All-Black Watch with Its Slimmest Watch Yet Featuring a Wandering-Hour Worn & Wound
6 days ago

Papar Puts a Twist on the All-Black Watch with Its Slimmest Watch Yet Featuring a Wandering-Hour

You probably know I’ve been a fan of Papar from the brand’s launch in 2024 with its initial model, the Anillo. Since this inaugural GMT collection, the brand has expanded with the addition of a diver called the Cenote. Now, we get a third collection that offers a wandering-hour: the Vuelte. Before even reading the full press kit and just browsing through the images of the latest model in Papar’s lineup, I could see the brand’s distinct and playful DNA shine through in details like the now-signature octagonal case created by intersecting planes giving the impression of folded steel and the poetic color-changing crescent moon logo smiling. I could also see the Vuelte bringing a new personality to the lineup – one that’s a bit more restrained and minimal. However, knowing the attention to detail and the meaning attached to those details that’s been a throughline with Papar’s designs, I also knew there was more than meets the eye behind the aesthetics of this latest offering. The Vuelte introduces a wander-hour complication executed with a very distinct all-black design. If you’ve been in the watch world for a while now, you are well versed in the plethora of blacked-out watches available from nearly every brand. Leave it to Papar to put its own spin on the color concept.  Rather than relying on conventional hands, an aperture carrying the current hour travels around the black dial while a red triangular indicator traces the passing minutes along the perimet...

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces 6 days ago

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic

Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture.  The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco.  As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...

[VIDEO] Fossil Signature: Behind the Scenes with Ryan White plus a Special Invitation Worn & Wound
Fossil 6 days ago

[VIDEO] Fossil Signature: Behind the Scenes with Ryan White plus a Special Invitation

Introducing the Fossil Signature Collection. We visited Fossil’s Dallas headquarters to sit down with Senior Creative Director Ryan White for a behind-the-scenes look at the inspiration and creative process behind a collection designed with enthusiasts in mind. Join us at Windup Watch Fair NYC for an exclusive screening of the short documentary chronicling the collection’s […]

Introducing: The Brew Metric Chrono Taxi Hodinkee
Seiko VK68 mecaquartz chronograph movement 6 days ago

Introducing: The Brew Metric Chrono Taxi

What We Know It's New York Watch Week, which means lots of new releases hitting your feed. But if you're like me, the most exciting ones to find out about this week are often the special editions from the brands at Windup Watch Fair. Last year, I picked up a New York Edition Metric Chrono from Jonathan Ferrer at the Brew table at Windup—which featured dials inspired by the distinctive patterned flooring of New York subways. It was an extremely weird and fun edition, so naturally I've been looking forward to seeing what Ferrer has in store for this year. Turns out, Brew is taking inspiration from another iconic mode of New York City transportation for this year's special edition launching at Windup Watch Fair—the yellow cab. With the very evidently named Metric Chrono Taxi, the familiar mecaquartz chronograph from the brand gets a black, white, and yellow livery for a dial that reflects the motifs of the cars you love and hate in the city (depending on whether you're a rider or a pedestrian, of course). The Metric Chrono framework remains the same here, with a steel square(ish) cushion case design coming in at 36mm and a thickness of 10.75mm. Given the case shape, the lug-to-lug measures a bit longer, though still very compact at 41.5mm. It comes on a steel bracelet with quick-release spring bars and offers a water resistance of 50 meters. Inside is the Seiko VK68 mecaquartz chronograph movement, sitting behind a checkered solid caseback. The dial is where things get in...

Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo Hodinkee
Hublot Takes Us Back 6 days ago

Introducing: Hublot Takes Us Back To The Beginning With The Classic Fusion Tributo

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Today, a luxury sports watch with a rubber strap is nothing revolutionary, but in 1980 it was scandalous. Italian watchmaker and entrepreneur Carlo Crocco fired the starting gun on a casual-luxury sports watch revolution when he combined a gold case with a rubber strap to build his ultimate Mediterranean summer watch: the MDM 'La Hublot.' Turns out his idea caught on and was quickly embraced by royalty in Monaco, Spain and Sweden, to name just a few. An archival shot of Carlo Crocco posing with early MDM Hublot models. Rarely-seen 'pre-Biver' Hublots, including chronographs and a dive watch. The original MDM 'La Hublot' and the new Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo. It's hard to imagine that Hublot is almost 50 years old. We as collectors tend to think of it as a young brand - and in many senses, it still is - but a half-century ain't nothing to sniff at. 46 years after its inaugural release, Hublot is going all the way back to its Carlo Crocco roots with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, a standard-production watch that pays tribute to where the maverick brand started, made with the input of Mr Crocco himself (who officially exited Hublot in 2008). This release encompasses two models in 38mm, one in yellow gold and one in white gold, both housing a Zenith-sourced movement. In a departure from the standard Classic Fusion, the Tributo returns to the original MDM Hublot's 12-screw bezel design ...

The New Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Takes Us Back To 1980 Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Takes 6 days ago

The New Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Takes Us Back To 1980

Forty-six years ago, Carlo Crocco put a gold watch on a rubber strap, and everyone told him he was mad. Now, Hublot has brought it back as the Classic Fusion Tributo. I sat down with him in Nyon, a week before his 82nd birthday, to hear where it really came from. Picture the showroom at […] Visit The New Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Takes Us Back To 1980 to read the full article.

First Look - Time Set to the Second on the New Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds Monochrome
Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds Arnold & 6 days ago

First Look - Time Set to the Second on the New Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds

Arnold & Son has forged its identity around the legacy of the 18th-century English chronometer maker John Arnold. Its collections are grouped into three categories (astronomy, chronometry and world time), each reflecting a different dimension of his work. One of the brand’s signature complications is the true seconds, also known as a deadbeat seconds mechanism. […]

Introducing - Urwerk Reconfigures its Time Display with the UR-300 Time Quantum Monochrome
Urwerk Reconfigures 6 days ago

Introducing - Urwerk Reconfigures its Time Display with the UR-300 Time Quantum

Since its foundation in 1997, Urwerk has looked at mechanical watchmaking from a very unconventional perspective. Co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have developed an unmistakable style, with satellite hours, wandering displays, and retrograde indications. Their watches frequently take inspiration from astronomy, but the new UR-300 Time Quantum looks not to heavenly bodies but to […]

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Hodinkee
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum What 6 days ago

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum

What We Know If you know Urwerk, you know that they've always been looking toward the stars, making instantly recognizable watches with the brand's iconic satellite display that rotates around the dial, with the hour pointing to the minute track as the whole display turns and snaps to reveal each passing hour. They've played with a variety of approaches to this concept, widening the minute track and speeding up the snap as well, but today's release of the UR-300 "Time Quantum" introduces a new mechanic that the brand says is inspired by things at the atomic level. Not to be confused with Urwerk's other atomic-inspired watch (one of my top 10 favorite all-time modern watches, the AMC special), this watch draws from the concept of polarized entities—neutrons and electrons—swirling around. Instead of the rotating single carousel in the past, the new display features a "T-frame" structure. The current hour displays as usual; the flat portion of a triangular hour module is made of beryllium copper, brass, anodized aluminum, ARCAP AP1D, and titanium, and points to the current minute as it travels on a 108º arc. The other hours are rotated 120º on their axis to hide them for legibility. Once it approaches the 60th minute (and transitions to 0), three things happen. Power built up during the rotation forces the T-Frame into rotation in a split second. The frame jumps forward and rotates 72º to put the next hour display into position, also rotating the hour module to be visi...

Meet The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Year Of The Goat Fratello
Zodiac sign 6 days ago

Meet The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Year Of The Goat

The Year of the Goat starts on February 6th, 2027, but IWC is getting a head start on the festivities. Today, the brand from Schaffhausen announces the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 ref. IW388310, a 500-piece limited edition for those who want to celebrate this Chinese zodiac sign with an iconic chrono. The IWC Pilot’s […] Visit Meet The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Year Of The Goat to read the full article.

Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art Fratello
6 days ago

Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art

This is not the first time you’ve read about cônillons. Do you still remember what a cônillon is? Let me jog your memory. It is a tilted tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. It’s not a new concept. The American watchmaker Andrew Holden Potter […] Visit Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Omega Speedmaster Reduced Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Reduced 6 days ago

Fratello Talks: The Omega Speedmaster Reduced

For many watch enthusiasts, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is untouchable. But there’s another model that has earned its rightful place in the collection — the Speedmaster Reduced. Smaller, automatic, and often more accessible on the pre-owned market, it offers a different take on one of Omega’s best-known chronographs. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Omega Speedmaster Reduced to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas Worn & Wound
Straum 6 days ago

Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas

Spirit Halloween stores are popping up around the city, pumpkin beer has hit the shelves, and 80-plus-degree highs in Brooklyn are in the rearview mirror (please remain true). I’ve returned my most worn summer watch to the display box and this one included quite a few “firsts”. I received my Jan Mayen Stormy Seas, a collaboration between the Norwegian brand and The Real Time Show (a podcast I’ll admit I’m still ignorant of) in late May after a production issue with the rubber straps delayed the promised delivery date by about three months. I grew up on the west coast sailing with my parents (who until very recently lived fulltime on their 43ft Hans Christian Ketch named “Galatea”) so perhaps that’s why I’m drawn to a watch called “Stormy Seas”, but regardless I found the contents of the precision machined capsule absolutely stunning. This was the first watch I’ve ever pre-ordered. While it’s not my favorite business practice, I knew the risks involved and was quite happy when they included a second strap gratis for the inconvenience. It remained on my wrist almost exclusively for the next three months. As well as my first pre-order and first Straum, it is also the first watch I’ve owned on a rubber strap, my first titanium case, and first integrated bracelet (more on that later). Straum has been on my radar since a Limited Edition Jan Mayen they released with Fratello back in the Spring of 2023. I loved the textural details in that fiery red dia...

Photo Report: The 2026 Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
Ming weeks 6 days ago

Photo Report: The 2026 Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne

Every year in early October, the car world descends on Newport, Rhode Island, for a weekend of revelry at the Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance. We've covered the event in years past: Malaika had a dispatch in 2023, James strolling the lawn in 2024, and last year, TanTan took a ride with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid. This year, it was my turn, and I was thrilled—it was my first time at Audrain and my first time in Newport, and over four days, set against the town's dramatic, historic backdrop, I was immersed in the smell of gasoline and the sound of pre-war cars shifting from first to second, trying not to stall. The weekend kicked off on Thursday at the Faxon Lodge, and set the tone for the rest of the week.  Now in its fourth year as a sponsor of the Concours, A. Lange & Söhne, the partnership feels like a natural one. While the cars got top billing, I kept glancing at wrists. Plenty of Langes were on display, naturally, including Jay Leno's Datograph Perpetual Calendar and Tony de Haas's limited-edition Triple Split. There was even a surprise appearance from former President Joe Biden, whose Goodwood Green 1967 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray Corvette was on display (sadly, I couldn't get a wrist shot). Scroll through for photos from the weekend, and stay tuned in the coming weeks for an itinerary to help you plan your own trip to Audrain next year, something I highly recommend. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase. Maserati Khamsin. A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilh...

Portrait - Miyota, The Engine Behind the Watch, And The Rise of the Japanese Movement Maker Monochrome
Oct 14, 2026

Portrait - Miyota, The Engine Behind the Watch, And The Rise of the Japanese Movement Maker

For more than four decades, Miyota has been quietly powering watches from brands around the world. As the watch industry evolves, however, the movement manufacturer is increasingly stepping into the spotlight – highlighting not only its technical expertise and manufacturing capabilities, but also the role movements play in the identity, reliability and long-term value of […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: The Organizers Behind The Escapement In Las Vegas And Why They Think It's Time For A New Kind Of Watch Show Hodinkee
Oct 14, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: The Organizers Behind The Escapement In Las Vegas And Why They Think It's Time For A New Kind Of Watch Show

Is there room for another watch show? Is there demand? Is Las Vegas the ideal place to bring thousands of watch collectors together for a weekend of horological-themed fun, discussion, and entertainment?  The folks behind The Escapement are saying an emphatic yes to all of the above. They're putting on a new watch event in Las Vegas in 2027 running February 5-7, and they believe collectors and enthusiasts are primed for a fresh, in-depth, and upgraded take on the watch meetup.  Texas-based Neeshu Hajra is an enthusiastic watch collector who has decades of experience in the events business. Now located in the Middle East, Faheem Khan spent most of his career in the energy industry in London and now writes and curates the popular watch-, philosophy-, and psychology-driven Substack blog ScrewDownCrown. He's also the irreverent voice behind @kingflum on Instagram. Together, they're planning and organizing The Escapement with help from a few other big names in the industry that we dive into during the episode. Image courtesy The Escapement We discuss what makes meetups work and why they had to pull plans to hold the inaugural edition of the event in Abu Dhabi and move to a more conventional location in Vegas, where they hope to attract some 5,000 general admission ticket buyers and 750 VIP ticket clients.  There's been some skepticism from industry naysayers as to the need and potential of the event. WatchPro's editor said the original gathering planned for Abu Dhabi gave...

Introducing: The Ralph Lauren Western Cushion Is Back With A 38mm Case Hodinkee
Piaget Oct 14, 2026

Introducing: The Ralph Lauren Western Cushion Is Back With A 38mm Case

What We Know The American West has long been a defining source of inspiration for Ralph Lauren. In 2018, the brand launched its Western Watch Collection to celebrate its 50th anniversary, extending Western influences to the wrist. Today, the brand is offering a fresh take on the Western Cushion model from the original collection, with the most noticeable change being its more compact, 38mm case offered in a total of three new versions.  The American Western pocket watch that launched in 2018, which featured an IWC  "Jones caliber" as the base.  The watch first launched in 2018 with a 42mm case, among five other limited-production models, including a 50mm full hunter pocket watch. For the movements, Ralph Lauren partnered with Richemont brands Piaget and IWC, marrying Swiss-made tradition with the spirit of the Wild West. The Western Cushion 38mm retains the original design's pillowy case, crafted from hand-engraved and aged sterling silver to resemble vintage Western silverwork. The watch comes in three dial versions: black lacquer, off-white lacquer, and a natural turquoise stone. The black lacquer dial is paired with contrasting off-white numerals and a black calfskin leather strap, while the off-white version takes a slightly more traditional approach with black numerals and a brown calfskin leather strap. The turquoise dial also has black numerals and comes on a brown calfskin leather strap, although its natural stone surface gives each watch a slightly different ch...

First Look - The new Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon Victory Green Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon Victory Green Oct 14, 2026

First Look - The new Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon Victory Green

With such a rich and varied repertoire, it is hard to believe that Czapek was founded as recently as 2015. Five years later, the brand introduced its first luxury sports collection, the Antarctique. To mark its tenth anniversary, the Antarctique was equipped with a spectacular flying tourbillon, framed by an equally striking guilloché pattern simulating […]