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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Is The Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than A Rolex Submariner? Fratello
Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than Oct 14, 2026

Is The Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than A Rolex Submariner?

Put the spec sheets for the Tudor Pelagos 39 and the Rolex Submariner side by side, and the two watches look almost suspiciously similar. Both are roughly 40mm steel or titanium dive watches with in-house automatic movements, ceramic or aluminum bezels, and depth ratings most owners will never come close to testing. On paper, this […] Visit Is The Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than A Rolex Submariner? to read the full article.

Picking A Saxonian Watch Bouquet: Introducing The Glashütte Original × Meissen Senator Cherry Blossom Fratello
Glashütte Original × Meissen Senator Cherry Oct 14, 2026

Picking A Saxonian Watch Bouquet: Introducing The Glashütte Original × Meissen Senator Cherry Blossom

Somewhere in a remote corner of the internet, there must be a place where people debate whether enamel or porcelain watch dials are nicer. I didn’t go down the rabbit hole into a heated online argument about these two delicate dial-making techniques, but from time to time, I do have an internal discussion on the […] Visit Picking A Saxonian Watch Bouquet: Introducing The Glashütte Original × Meissen Senator Cherry Blossom to read the full article.

Reconsidering A Smartwatch: The Garmin MARQ 3 Worn & Wound
Casio nal “What smartwatch should Oct 13, 2026

Reconsidering A Smartwatch: The Garmin MARQ 3

One side effect of working in the watch industry is becoming the default person to ask when there’s a watch-adjacent question. While I have a go-to answer for most questions, the occasional “What smartwatch should I buy?” was always a bit of a curveball. Until last month, I would have recommended that you stay within your phone’s ecosystem to take advantage of any integrations and connectivity that were built in, with only one exception. When it comes to fitness tracking, especially for runners, I’ve always heard that Garmin was the brand to go with. Now, I’ve always considered the smartwatch to be an extension of your phone, so mechanical watches were the perfect way to become a little less connected, but this newest release has me thinking that maybe I should add a smartwatch back into the collection. While I don’t think I’ve ever explicitly mentioned my age in an article or on the podcast, smartwatches really started to take off when I was in high school. Around that time, I remember buying a rather affordable Xiaomi-branded smartwatch for myself. Despite being a fraction of the cost, it packed many of the same features as the current-generation smartwatches: phone notifications, step counting, and it even tracked just how little sleep I was getting each night, making it an easy purchase for an unemployed high school student.I’ d go on to wear this watch throughout high school and college, before ultimately becoming interested in mechanical watches and...

First Look - Fortis Updates its Space Chronograph with the Fully Luminous Novonaut N-42 Halo Editions Monochrome
Fortis Updates Oct 13, 2026

First Look - Fortis Updates its Space Chronograph with the Fully Luminous Novonaut N-42 Halo Editions

In recent years, Swiss brand Fortis has worked hard to update most of its collection and mechanical offerings, including a refreshed Flieger collection, the return of the Marinemaster, and the introduction of the Stratoliner with a space-tested movement. In 2023, the brand tackled the task of revamping one of its most important models, a model once known as the B-42 Official Cosmonauts […]

RGM Introduces the New 501-PC Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Fears linked above which Oct 13, 2026

RGM Introduces the New 501-PC Perpetual Calendar

RGM has introduced a new perpetual calendar, their first since the Model 103-R Minute Repeater Perpetual which was introduced in the 1990s. The new watch, dubbed the 501-PC, has classic RGM aesthetics and incorporates a new module from Dubois-Depraz for the calendar complication (not unlike another perpetual calendar to debut recently). While the watch is not inexpensive by any means, the use of a module fixed to a mass produced movement does keep costs down somewhat compared to a fully in-house design, and serves as another example of the many small ways traditional higher end complications are being democratized across the larger watch marketplace. The 501-PC has a fairly traditional perpetual calendar layout, with a 12:00 subdial indicating the months and leap year, a 3:00 subdial showing the date, a moonphase at 6:00, and the day of the week in a subdial at 9:00. The dial layout and design takes inspiration from 19th century pocket watches, a frequent source of inspiration for RGM over the years, and is rendered in white enamel. Black painted Roman numerals and blued hands add additional depth and historic coherence to the design. It’s all very traditional and the antithesis of flashy. Again, exactly what you’d expect from RGM.  The case is stainless steel and measures 39mm in diameter and is 11.5mm thick. Like the Fears linked above, which this watch is sure to draw comparisons to thanks to the movement, that’s an incredibly wearable and approachable size. The ...

Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites Fratello
Swatch Oct 13, 2026

Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites

In September, I ended up spending more time in airport lounges than in my living room at home. Sometimes, that’s not so bad, especially when it means new opportunities! One highlight was visiting Switzerland to tour two Swatch Group production sites. At one, I saw how movements are made, and at the other, I watched […] Visit Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites to read the full article.

First Look - The MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Is Back and Ready for Action as the LM1 EVO Monochrome
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

First Look - The MB&F; Legacy Machine 1 Is Back and Ready for Action as the LM1 EVO

When it was launched in 2011, MB&F;’s Legacy Machine 1 seemed like a totally alien presence among the brand’s fleet of futuristic galactic-themed Horological Machines. Appearing in the brand’s first round case, the LM1’s classical Roman numerals, lacquered registers and overtly 19th-century air made it look less like a spacecraft instrument and more like a […]

Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Oct 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère

Earlier this year, we covered the announcement of a novel idea from the minds at Vacheron Constantin and the Phillips auction house: an open call looking for the best vintage Vacheron Constantin watches in the world for display, appreciation, and eventually the potential to be crowned the best in its category. It was a Concours D'Élégance like any held for cars, except this time for Vacheron timepieces. The underlying raison d'être was not just to show the best of vintage Vacheron but also to show support and appreciation to the collectors who have carried the passion for the brand (and maybe to draw some watches out of hiding). A platinum ref. 6448 from 1962 with JMV RA 13-ligne ultra-thin hand-wound movement (left) and a ref. 30030 from 2006. The jury (all fourteen members) reviewed 550 entries from vintage collectors worldwide. Now we know the 34 finalists in the seven categories (chronographs, Métiers d'Art, Chronomètre Royal, astronomical complications, multiple complications, design, and chiming mechanisms),  and there are some truly phenomenal pieces, including some that I did not know existed. And for those in Geneva during the lead-up to GPHG and the fall auction season, you can see the watches on display from November 4th to 8th before the winners in each category—plus a potential "Best in Show"—are announced at a ceremony on November 10th. The legendary retrograde full date and 'Don Pancho' minute repeater from 1940, with a replacement dial faithful to...

Introducing - The new Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau Black Ceramic and Gold Monochrome
Bianchet Oct 13, 2026

Introducing - The new Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau Black Ceramic and Gold

Launched in 2025, the Bianchet UltraFino Tonneau marked several firsts for the young independent: its first ultra-thin watch, first automatic movement, and first integrated-bracelet model. Initially presented in Grade 5 titanium, the collection has since expanded into sapphire crystal and carbon fibre, including a recent Maserati edition. Earlier this year, Bianchet introduced white and deep-blue […]

Introducing - The MeisterSinger No03 and Perigraph Special Editions with Turquoise Dials Monochrome
Meistersinger No03 Oct 13, 2026

Introducing - The MeisterSinger No03 and Perigraph Special Editions with Turquoise Dials

Watchmaking enthusiasts know MeisterSinger and the foundational idea behind its creations: time does not always need to be read to the nearest second. Two of the Münster-based brand’s long-standing models, the No03 and the Perigraph, now come as special editions that pair the signature single-hand display with a cool new dial colour. Both watches are […]

The Wren Vessel: A Surprisingly Wearable Integrated-Bracelet Watch For The Future Fratello
Wren Oct 13, 2026

The Wren Vessel: A Surprisingly Wearable Integrated-Bracelet Watch For The Future

After the 41mm Diver One and the fan-favorite Diver 38 Seafoam, New York-based Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger is back with a new Wren watch. Karger felt there were already too many vintage-inspired integrated-bracelet sports watches, so he asked designer Max Resnick to help him develop a future-oriented one. However, there was one challenge: Karger […] Visit The Wren Vessel: A Surprisingly Wearable Integrated-Bracelet Watch For The Future to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Updated Breguet Marine 5517, Navigating a More Classical Course Monochrome
Breguet Marine 5517 Navigating Oct 12, 2026

Hands-on - The Updated Breguet Marine 5517, Navigating a More Classical Course

Breguet’s maritime pedigree dates to 1815, when Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. Although Breguet did not invent the marine chronometer (that was John Harrison), he improved its robustness and precision, enabling sailors to calculate longitude at sea more accurately. It wasn’t until 1990, though, that the brand tapped […]

Introducing - The New and Stylish Pequignet Attitude Onyx Monochrome
Pequignet Oct 12, 2026

Introducing - The New and Stylish Pequignet Attitude Onyx

After last year’s limited-edition Attitude with Tiger’s Eye dial, Pequignet continues to expand its collection with a version that once again puts the dial material centre stage. Called the Attitude Onyx, this new model replaces conventional dial finishes with genuine black onyx. Its dark, relatively uniform surface sets a restrained tone, with rose-gold-coloured details. The […]

The Art of Cloisonné at Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 12, 2026

The Art of Cloisonné at Patek Philippe

For some eight decades, Patek Philippe has been an important patron of cloisonné enamel, commissioning work that helped sustain the craft when demand for it had all but disappeared. From the enamel maps of Louis Cottier’s world time watches to the signed dials of Anita Porchet, its commissions trace a history of both the technique and the changing recognition of the artists behind it. Today, demand for artisanal dials, particularly those in cloisonné enamel, is at an all-time high. In May 2026, a Patek Philippe wristwatch sold for about US$10.2 million at an auction in Geneva, as collectors competed for a dial featuring a map of South America made with gold wire and enamel. The outcome ended up making headlines. The watch was a ref. 2523 from 1953, and the artist responsible for the dial — supplied by Stern Frères — remains anonymous. The Patek Philippe ref. 2523, with South America map. The story of cloisonné enamel at Patek Philippe is also one of artistic patronage. By choosing subjects, commissioning enamellers and eventually allowing them to sign their dials, the Genevan watchmaker has acted as a curator, shaping a body of work that reflects both its own tastes and the talents of individual artists. Drawing in fire Cloisonné is only one of several enamel techniques. Cloisonné begins with gold wire. The enameller bends it by hand, sometimes working with wire just 0.05 mm thick, to draw the design on the dial. The resulting compartments, or cloisons — Fren...

Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch Fratello
Oct 11, 2026

Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch

Apiar launches its first sports watch, the Carbon1.0 OG. Utilizing a novel construction process known as Composite-Based Additive Manufacturing (CBAM), the UK-based brand introduces a fresh approach to carbon-composite watchmaking. The watch features a 40.5mm carbon-fiber outer case surrounding a 38mm Grade 23 titanium core. This hybrid structure allows Apiar to pursue ambitious openworked forms […] Visit Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch to read the full article.

RZE Introduces The UTD-8080 With Its First In-House Digital Module Fratello
Oct 10, 2026

RZE Introduces The UTD-8080 With Its First In-House Digital Module

RZE is taking its UltraHex Titanium Digital (UTD) platform into its next generation with the UTD-8080, the first watch powered by a digital module developed in-house by the Singapore-based brand. The new RZE-8080 module adds several new functions and a higher-contrast FSTN display. Just as importantly, RZE is keeping the platform upgradeable. Existing UTD-8000 owners […] Visit RZE Introduces The UTD-8080 With Its First In-House Digital Module to read the full article.

Introducing: The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating The Founder's 100th Birthday Hodinkee
Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating Oct 10, 2026

Introducing: The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller Celebrating The Founder's 100th Birthday

What We Know It seems as though Raymond Weil has been everywhere this year as the Geneva-based, family-owned independent brand celebrates its 50th anniversary. The company entered the integrated-bracelet sport watch realm in June with its A.R.T. collection, launching a lovely chronograph—The Fifty—featuring a vintage, new old stock Valjoux movement from the year the brand was born, 1976. But RW is marking another milestone this year. Today, on October 10th (also World Watch Day, btw), Raymond Weil himself would have turned 100 if he were still with us. A frequent and enthusiastic traveler, the brand is paying tribute to its founder with a limited-edition model, the Freelancer World-Traveller.  The star of the show for this run of 260 pieces is, most certainly, the dial. It's a relief-rendered world map in the style of the Mercator projection, rendered in textured champagne, against a dark blue background, representing the oceans. Rather than the brand logo, Raymond Weil's signature sits at 6 o'clock and above the date window. The indexes are applied and surrounded by a 24-hour scale in blue for the evening and beige for the daytime. The outer ring of the dial features 24 world cities and their corresponding time zones. Turning the knurled bezel rotates the city ring to allow for shifting time zones or tracking.  The local time display features tapering baton hands filled with Super-LumiNova, while the GMT hand, which can be manipulated by moving the screw-down cro...