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Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB451, SPB453, And SPB455 - Successors To The SPB143 Fratello
Seiko Prospex SPB451 SPB453 Mar 7, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB451, SPB453, And SPB455 - Successors To The SPB143

The Seiko SPB143 is a veritable fan favorite among lovers of Seiko dive watches. And that’s for good reason. It combined the mid-range quality we know from this level of Seiko offerings with subtle, timeless dive-watch aesthetics. Today, Seiko releases the spiritual successors to this watch. These are the standard-production SPB451 (blue dial) and SPB453 […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB451, SPB453, And SPB455 - Successors To The SPB143 to read the full article.

First Look – Seiko Updates Its Prospex 1965 Divers With The New SPB451, SPB453 & SPB455 Monochrome
Seiko Updates Mar 7, 2024

First Look – Seiko Updates Its Prospex 1965 Divers With The New SPB451, SPB453 & SPB455

Although Seiko’s expertise in waterproof watchmaking goes back a very long way, it wasn’t until 1965 that the Japanese manufacturer entered the professional dive watch market. Ever since, plenty of low- and high-end dive watches have been introduced with a good number of them becoming genuine icons. Collections like the 5 Sports, the Turtle, the […]

Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Mar 5, 2024

Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics

Once a relative rarity, ceramics have today been firmly established as go-to materials in the luxury watch industry, alongside traditional metals such as gold, steel, and titanium. But no single watchmaker is more associated with ceramics in the horological realm than Rado, which has not only made the tough, scratchproof, hypoallergenic material a core part of its identity but continues to pioneer new frontiers in what can be done with it. Here’s the story behind Rado’s host of technical innovations, from early “hardmetal” alloys to today’s signature high-tech ceramic, and how two of the brand’s milestones from 1962 have become inextricably linked in the modern era. From DiaStar to Diver's Watch Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements, becoming an important supplier during the World War II years. Forty years after its foundation, in 1957, the company launched the Rado watch brand, taking its name from the Esperanto word for “wheel.” The very first timepiece made under the new Rado banner was the Golden Horse (modern tribute model above), which was also one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. It was the harbinger of the technical innovation that the company would adopt as part of its stock-in-trade going forwa...

Isotope Launches The HydriumX Will Return Red And Wall Return Clock Fratello
Isotope Launches Mar 3, 2024

Isotope Launches The HydriumX Will Return Red And Wall Return Clock

In 2021, Isotope launched its successful Hydrium collection of dive watches with the limited HydriumX Will Return model. Based on the well-known shop door sign that indicates when the proprietor will return and the shop will reopen, the watch sold out quickly. The Hydrium case has since been the canvas for many interesting and attractive […] Visit Isotope Launches The HydriumX Will Return Red And Wall Return Clock to read the full article.

Living With The Penguins: Operation Deep Freeze And The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Nivada Grenchen Feb 25, 2024

Living With The Penguins: Operation Deep Freeze And The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic

Nivada Grenchen is one of those “rebirthed watch brand” success stories. Today’s story, however, comes from the 1950s. First founded in 1926 in Granges, Switzerland, Nivada Grenchen went from strength to strength in the mid-20th century. Pioneering tough self-winding timepieces, Nivada Grenchen was one of the first companies to use the technology in 1930. Unfortunately, […] Visit Living With The Penguins: Operation Deep Freeze And The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: With Jérôme Burgert And Gabriel Vachette Of Serica Watches Fratello
Serica Watches Feb 22, 2024

Fratello Talks: With Jérôme Burgert And Gabriel Vachette Of Serica Watches

In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re pleased to welcome special guests Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette, the men behind Serica watches. They join your host and Fratello’s managing editor Nacho Conde for a deep dive into the ever-classy French microbrand ahead of its fifth anniversary. They delve into the brand’s origins and evolution […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Jérôme Burgert And Gabriel Vachette Of Serica Watches to read the full article.

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! It Feb 21, 2024

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME!

It was bound to happen. You get enough Black Bays in a room together, and they’re going to fight it out until there’s only one diver standing. Zach Kazan, Zach Weiss, and Kat Shoulders are all big Tudor fans, and have gravitated toward various corners of the Black Bay universe over the last few years in the dive watch’s decade-plus history. In this video, sides are chosen, and a battle is waged to crown the best Black Bay.  Kat’s choice, the Black Bay 54, was the darling of last year’s Watches & Wonders festivities. An immediate hit for its slender, vintage inspired footprint, the 54 is effectively a recreation of a classic vintage Tudor with all the conveniences of a modern watch. The only question: is it too small? And does it cannibalize the Black Bay 58, a watch that was once at the top of the enthusiast food chain (and not too long ago) but now might be redundant for many.  Zach Weiss picked the Black Bay Pro, another Watches & Wonders release, this one from 2022. While we’re still not sure exactly what makes it “pro,” there’s no denying the utility of a GMT equipped diver. The Black Bay Pro borrows some of its key attributes from well known vintage Rolex references (that fixed steel 24 hour bezel is clearly meant to evoke old and new Explorer IIs) but is still very much its own thing. It’s a hard watch not to like, unless you insist on complicated and robust sports watches being thinner than one could reasonably expect for about $4,000. We addre...

The Grand Seiko SBGX265 - A Pre-Owned Entry Ticket To Zaratsu Stardom Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGX265 - Feb 19, 2024

The Grand Seiko SBGX265 - A Pre-Owned Entry Ticket To Zaratsu Stardom

Unsurprisingly, my plans for the year have already been led astray by Chrono24 and its infallible feeds. Following my story on whether or not to perform what I envisioned as a final upgrade in the Seiko dive game, I folded. I sold my Marinemaster SLA023 and searched for an SBGX335/337, only to find that the […] Visit The Grand Seiko SBGX265 - A Pre-Owned Entry Ticket To Zaratsu Stardom to read the full article.

Introducing – A More Compact 38mm Case for the Classic MeisterSinger No.03 Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 19, 2024

Introducing – A More Compact 38mm Case for the Classic MeisterSinger No.03

Single-hand watches are the mainstay of German brand MeisterSinger. Proving that single-handed watches can perform multiple functions, MeisterSinger has produced a rich collection, ranging from straightforward time-only models all the way up to a sophisticated repeater or a jumping hour dive watch. Today, MeisterSinger releases three iterations of its classic time-only No.03 model in a […]

Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition Fratello
Sinn Extends Feb 14, 2024

Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition

Last year, we were treated to the brilliant Sinn T50 series. After trying the three watches out, I became an instant fan of the full-titanium, Goldbronze, and two-tone versions, and the last one made a particularly lasting impression. This time around, the German brand is extending its U-series of dive watches with four new models. […] Visit Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition to read the full article.

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio Worn & Wound
Rolex Feb 12, 2024

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio

This month I had the pleasure of speaking with Nathan Bobinchak, Head of Watchmaking for the independent brand Oak & Oscar. Nathan is a former journalist and TV news writer turned watchmaker, with an obsession for finding the best way to experience sound through home audio setups.  Watches  “I had my midlife crisis at 26.” Nathan delivers a dry joke as he recounts his career shift from local TV news, to his decision to go to watchmaking school. Specifically, Nathan attended The Litiz Watch Technicum, a watchmaking school outside Lancaster, PA that was founded in 2001 by Rolex. After graduating from Litiz, Nathan worked for a shop in Connecticut, eventually moving to Chicago at the beginning of 2020 and landing the job at Oak & Oscar.  “I first got into Oak & Oscar with the Jackson. The Jackson is a very cool chronograph with the Eterna 3916 movement in it. It’s a very neat, super complicated, pretty movement. It has a column wheel and flyback chrono…just very cool.” Nathan explained to me that in modern watchmaking you do a lot of the same things, but said he was fortunately certified to work on watches like the Rolex Daytona, as he has a lot of fun servicing chronographs. “I can go on all day about the art of lubricating a chronograph. That is some nerdy stuff. It’s like paint drying.” I was interested, so I asked him to expound. “The only thing that makes watches hard to work on is the user. We knock them, move them around, a movement will run grea...

Is The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Due For An Update? Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Due Feb 9, 2024

Is The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Due For An Update?

The Omega Seamaster (Professional) Diver 300M has been around since 1993. It has seen several revisions and a major overhaul in 2018. With the current generation turning six this year, we wonder: is it due for an update, or is the 300M still one of the best dive watches under 10 grand? Join us as […] Visit Is The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Due For An Update? to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces a Smaller Aquaracer Solargraph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Feb 2, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Smaller Aquaracer Solargraph

Two years ago, TAG Heuer introduced a solar powered version of their ever-popular Aquaracer dive watch called the Solargraph. It was quite a hit and last year they brought out a version in media-blasted titanium, which knocked Kat Shoulders’ socks off at LVMH Watch Week 2023. It just so happens to be LVMH Watch Week 2024 and TAG Heuer is introducing 5 new Solargraph models, but they might not be what you’d think. Instead of new case materials (these are all stainless steel) what they have done is shrunk the diameter down to 34mm. Making these new Aquaracer Solargraphs a mid-size watch that will fit just about everyone, but will be particularly appealing to anyone with smaller wrists who might feel ignored by “small” divers starting at 38mm and ballooning from there. They have also brought back a design feature which was removed from the Aquaracer line when they redesigned them some years ago: the venerable rider tabs. They’ve been executed quite tastefully here, with their scalloped trapezoidal shape on a completely polished bezel.  There are 5 different configurations of the new smaller Solargraph, all of which come on a bracelet, with a solid twin-trigger clasp. The first features a green dial (above), with an attractive circular texture and printing that seems to float above it. TAG Heuer calls this polar blue-themed. Even the applied indices appear to be hovering above the dial. Next up are three models with mother-of-pearl dials. One with a diamond bezel, o...

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial Worn & Wound
Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets Jan 31, 2024

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial

Among watch brands, Omega won the race to the moon–it also won the PR war, and now whenever someone uses the term “moon watch,” your mind invariably turns to the Speedmaster. But while the Omega Speedmaster may have been the first watch to the moon, it isn’t the only one. In 1971, Apollo 15 mission commander Dave Scott became the seventh man to walk on the moon, and when he looked at his wrist to check how long he’d been out of the lunar lander, it was a Bulova that gave him the time. Forty-five years later, Bulova released a re-creation of this watch: the Lunar Pilot. Now, they’ve leaned into the space angle even more, with the Lunar Pilot Meteorite, which, as the name suggests, features a dial made of actual space rock. The Lunar Pilot was built to NASA’s specifications and, as such, bears some superficial resemblance to the Speedmaster as a three-register chronograph with a tachymeter. (Coincidentally, the Lunar Pilot Meteorite was also released shortly after the latest Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster from Omega, which features a dial made to look like the lunar surface.) But a more rounded and slightly larger case–43.5 mm versus the 42 mm of the Speedmaster–with slim, rectangular pushers that span from the crown to almost the lugs gives the Lunar Pilot a unique silhouette. The meteorite model features a dial crafted from a 4.5-billion-year-old meteorite that Bulova promises gives each of the 5,000 limited edition watches a unique crystalline pattern...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jan 29, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm

Following the original Aquaracer Solargraph two years ago, the affordable solar-powered dive watch now debuts in a more compact format with the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph that has a 34 mm case containing the solar-powered TH50-01. Initial thoughts The Aquaracer has long been one of TAG Heuer’s main entry-level offerings. For several years, however, the models were mostly big or bulky, until the brand released the more wearable and solar-powered 40 mm model two years ago. The new Solargraph maintains the familiar design and solar-powered movement but with a smaller case. With a diameter of 34 mm, this model leans towards being a women’s watch, so an in-between or “mid size” model of 37 mm or 38 mm is arguably still missing. Nevertheless, the vibrant dial offerings – that importantly do not reveal the solar panels – are noteworthy and hopefully indicate more variety is coming to the larger model. With prices starting at US$2,150, the value proposition  is reasonable, given the execution of the case and dial, and the innovative solar calibre (at least for a Swiss brand). As an aside, Swiss-made solar-powered movements are relatively uncommon, making this a relatively unusual proposition. While there have been a handful of solar-powered models from Cartier, they haven’t made it to the market in significant numbers, perhaps due to difficulties in mastering production on a large scale. In contrast, Japanese brands like Citizen easily produce several mil...

LOOKING BACK: Reviewing The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M – Owner’s Perspective WatchAdvice
Tissot PRS 200 as Jan 27, 2024

LOOKING BACK: Reviewing The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M – Owner’s Perspective

What’s it like to own the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M? In our Owner’s Perspective, we find out! This article was originally published as The Owners Perspective: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Why I Bought It A love of James BondLove the dive watch lookWas a grail piece when I was young The Ownership Reality Bracelet a little outdated and chunky claspWore it on the rubber more than notPolished Ceramic dial can be glary Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 This isn’t the first time that I’ve owned a Seamaster. I had a 2005 quartz version almost 20 years ago. At that point I’d only owned a Tissot PRS 200 as a “good” Swiss watch. As a fan of James Bond, (and what young male isn’t?), I always wanted his watch. I mean how cool was the wave dial, the deep blue bezel and at the time, that unmistakable bracelet. It looked great in the office and on weekends at the beach. I loved it. Financial issues meant I had to sell it about 7 months after buying it, and that hurt. About 15 years and many watches later, I decided it was time to purchase another, this time the latest iteration of the SMP 300. I chose the black polished ceramic dial with the laser etched waves, date at 6 o’clock, glossy, almost silky polished ceramic bezel with white inset dive indicators. And this time, on the steel and opting to add the rubber strap too. Very versatile and with the steel bracelet and rubber strap, two very diff...

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition Jan 18, 2024

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement

A visually faithful re-edition of a vintage dive watch, the classic version of the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster – which we reviewed here – combines the charm of an old watch with the ease-of-use of a modern watch, built with contemporary features and materials like sapphire crystal. And in all fairness, this is a perfect package […]