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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Formex Switzerland Formex Jul 29, 2024

10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025

In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025.  Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...

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A New Casio Edifice Pays Tribute to a Motorsport Subculture Worn & Wound
Casio Edifice Pays Tribute Jul 29, 2024

A New Casio Edifice Pays Tribute to a Motorsport Subculture

Casio is celebrating 50 years of TOM’s Racing with the release of a new racing-inspired chronograph. The Casio Edifice Sospensione TOM’s 50th Anniversary builds on Casio’s long history of technical, multi-function watches to deliver a fittingly contemporary watch that also references half a century of racing history. TOM’s Racing, for those not overly invested in the world of JDM tuner cars or Super GT, is a longstanding aftermarket parts manufacturer and tuner, primarily focused on Toyota and Lexus models. TOM’s Racing has also been heavily involved in competitive racing since day one, often acting as a tuning partner for factory race teams across racing divisions, and they have served as an official tuning shop for Toyota since 1975, just a year after their founding. This latest release from Edifice draws inspiration from one of TOM’s most iconic cars, the KP47 Starlet, which helped launch the brand onto the racing scene, winning touring car series championships in 1975, 1976, and 1978. With its vibrant livery, the KP47 has become somewhat of a mascot for the race house over the last five decades, so there’s no more fitting car for Casio to choose as inspiration for this limited edition. Edifice often gets overlooked by enthusiasts in favor of Casio’s other brand known for technical, multi-function watches, but pay close attention in the real world and you’ll see Edifice watches everywhere. Affordable, capable, and dripping in multi-functional goodness,...

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A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 29, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday

Today, Walter Lange would’ve turned 100 years old. It’s a special day for A. Lange & Söhne because Walter Lange, who passed away at the respectable age of 92 in 2017, revived the brand his great-grandfather founded in 1845. In December 1990, a year after the Berlin Wall fell, Lange re-established his great-grandfather’s legacy under […] Visit A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite Jul 28, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite

It’s finally getting warmer here in the Netherlands, and many people are already enjoying their summer vacations. That means it’s time to dig up those funky, colorful dive watches and wear the hell out of them while diving, swimming, hiking, or relaxing next to your tent. We’ll do the same today during another Sunday Morning […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite to read the full article.

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Annual Calendar Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe s Aquanaut Luce Annual Jul 26, 2024

Annual Calendar Watches Guide

Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...

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Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions Jul 25, 2024

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger

Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....

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Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jul 25, 2024

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1

Rumours started earlier this month that Rolex had “lost” its prime status as official timekeeper for Formula 1 to TAG Heuer. That, as it turns out, is not true – yet. According to a senior LVMH executive speaking off the record, a deal between F1 and the French luxury group – and not just one of its constituent brands – is close but not yet a done deal. This was also echoed by Jean-Jacques Guiony, LVMH chief financial officer, during a conference call with analysts to present the group’s second quarter financial results. In fact, any announcement of LVMH closing the deal will likely come after the Paris 2024 Olympics that counts LVMH as one of its lead sponsors. The situation is more than just Rolex “losing” the sponsorship to TAG Heuer. It’s not about the financial resources of Rolex, which for all intents and purposes are limitless, but about the breadth and depth of the LVMH portfolio, as well as Rolex’s growing emphasis on conservation as a key part of its brand. Three elements are crucial in understanding the sponsorship deal with F1, which is enjoying a revival in popularity with its hit Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive and new race locations like the Miami Grand Prix. The first is the matching clause that is common in such deals and will inevitably be part of the F1 sponsorship contract. This gives Rolex a matching right – it has the right to match a competing offer for the same sponsorship. In other words, if Rolex wanted to, it can...

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Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention Fratello
Jul 24, 2024

Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention

This one won’t be easy. I do not often have to write about an important revolutionary invention like Horage and Miniswys’s Microreg. I could tell the story in a few words, but background clarification is necessary to understand its importance. So this article will initially be pretty theoretical and technical, but a beautiful watch will […] Visit Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention to read the full article.

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A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications Fratello
Krayon Jul 24, 2024

A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications

Krayon is a watch brand that has been around for less than a decade. I say “brand,” but I should probably say “independent watchmaker” instead. Krayon founder and owner Rémi Maillat debuted with his Everywhere watch in 2017. Today, he produces around 40 watches annually with 12 collaborators in their Neuchâtel atelier. Maillat’s signature is […] Visit A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications to read the full article.

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Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin s Latest Joker Sports Jul 24, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial

An unusual variation of the brand’s bestseller, the Joker Fiat Lux has a skeletonised dial revealing the signature Konstantin Chaykin “rolling eye” module that’s been decorated by hand. Fiat lux is Latin for “let there be light”, and a reference to the see-through dial. It’s limited to 38 pieces and intended for the brand’s retailer in China, West Wood Time in Beijing. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker has become a cult classic of sorts and the brand’s strongest seller by far. Since the launch of the original Joker in 2017, it has evolved into an entire collection known as Wristmon, short for “wrist monster”. The brand has put out many, many different Wristmons since, though the original is arguably the purest (while some variants are admittedly gimmicky). Being based on the original, the Joker Fiat Lux stands out. It is almost the same as the original, with identical dimensions, design, and functions, but with a skeletonised dial and an exhibition back, both of which make it more aesthetically pleasing than the original. The dial is skeletonised to show off the display module The Joker Fiat Lux is priced similar to comparable past Wristmon models. It’s relatively affordable for a distinctive and unique example of unconventional independent watchmaking – seen that from that perspective, it is good value. Though the base movement is a no-frills ETA 2824-2, but the display module is built by Chaykin and furthermore hand finished. The ine...

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Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets Fratello
Jul 23, 2024

Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss watch bracelets and cover a wide range of subtopics about these important devices that fasten watches to our wrists. It’s another listener suggestion, and we hope you enjoy the show! For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. Watch bracelets […] Visit Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets to read the full article.

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Jul 23, 2024

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...

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