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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Jul 13, 2019

44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G)

Editor’s note: Sure, the mighty Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G to its friends) might lack the fancy dials of the Snowflake and the new manual-wind Spring Drives but, good golly, it makes up for it in sheer presence. The case, the bezel, the gold detailing. It bangs.  It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post 44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 of Australia’s finest … watch brand ambassadors Time+Tide
Jul 13, 2019

3 of Australia’s finest … watch brand ambassadors

In case you haven’t watched our videos and heard our brutal mangling of Swiss brand names with broad Australian accents, you might not realise that Time+Tide is an Australian-based company. So it makes sense that we’re a little proud of our homegrown heroes, and even those we’ve adopted (hello Rusty). So, in the spirit of mateship, … ContinuedThe post 3 of Australia’s finest … watch brand ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jul 8, 2019

Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon

In a world overflowing with safe-and-similar watch designs, Franck Muller is a breath of fresh air. As in this ladies tourbillon (a recent addition to the Cintrée Curvex Collection), the confident use of colour, the beautiful balance of traditional and avant-garde, the refined details on the dial, and the voluptuous curves of the case have … ContinuedThe post Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 1, 2019

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”

Continuing the tradition of one of a kind dive watches for Only Watch that started in 2015, Tudor has just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic One. Entirely clad in matte black but composed of several different materials, the Black Bay Ceramic One is starkly different from any other Tudor dive watch. The 41mm case is made of ceramic, while the bezel is black-coated titanium fitted with a ceramic bezel insert. Both the case back and crown and black-coated steel, but the back is unusual – it’s the only Tudor watch with a display back aside from the little loved North Flag. The sapphire back reveals the MT5602 movement, a “manufacture” calibre with 70-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. The dial is all-black to match, with the markings and text printed in glossy back to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. The hands and hour markers are filled with black Super-Luminova, which will glow green in the dark, albeit dimly. And the strap is rubber, but lined on the top with matte black alligator, which is the same construction as the rubber-calf strap found on the recently launched Black Bay P01. The Black Bay Ceramic One (ref. M7921/001CN) has an estimate of 4,500-5,500 Swiss francs. If past Tudor watches made for Only Watch are anything to go by, it will blow right past the estimate straight out of the gate and probably finish just over 300,000 Swiss francs. It’ll be sold on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. Visit onlywatch.com for the ...

Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket Jul 1, 2019

Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”

Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva.  The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.  

Patek Philippe Debuts the Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Jul 1, 2019

Patek Philippe Debuts the Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” in Stainless Steel

The subject of rumour since Baselworld 2019, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel is finally official. Almost certainly on track to become the most expensive watch sold at auction in 2019, the ref. 6300A is a one of a kind watch variant of the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch ever made that was created for Only Watch, the biennial charity auction of unique timepieces sold to benefit a medical charity. Aside from the steel case – the Grandmaster Chime is ordinarily available only in white gold – both dials on each side of the watch are also unique. The dial on the front is made of 18k rose gold, and features a hobnail guilloche centre and blackened 18k gold Breguet numerals. “The Only One” is printed within the 12 o’clock sub-dial just to make it clear that this is, well, the only one for Only Watch. Also made of 18k gold, the reverse dial is black with rose gold-plated hands. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version. The enormous 47.7mm case is reversible, but being in steel will be significantly lighter than the gold model. The case band is decorated with a hobnail guilloche engraved by a hand-operated rose engine Inside is the cal. 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, a hand-wound movement with 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar. Slated to go on the block on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s Geneva, the Grandmaster Chi...

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original? Time+Tide
Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better Jun 28, 2019

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original?

Editor’s note: It’s an tricky question, but the new Railmaster makes a compelling case for the ‘yes’ camp …  Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn’t the only Railmaster released last year. No, there’s also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Time+Tide
Ming Jun 28, 2019

Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept

Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you’re not familiar with Ming, they’re a relatively young brand that’s been making a lot of … ContinuedThe post Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Launched Jun 27, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Launched two years ago with a steel case, the BR 03-92 Diver took the signature aviation inspired design of Bell & Ross (B&R;) into the sea. It was a proper dive watch that combined the iconic square case with a 300m depth rating and a rotating bezel. At Baselworld this year, B&R; unveiled two new iterations of the BR 03-92 Diver, with cases in bronze and matte black ceramic respectively. Though fundamentally identical, each is drastically different from the other in look and feel. The road to the deep But first a quick recap of B&R;’s past dive watches. Though the brand is today best known for its military aviation watches, B&R; got its start making watches (which were essentially rebadged Sinn timepieces) for professionals in various spheres, from bomb disposal engineers to deep sea divers. One of its earliest dive watches was the Hydromax (also known as the Hydro Challenger) of 1997. It was a compact, round watch with a quartz movement boasting a ludicrous depth rating of 11,100m, thanks to a case filled with transparent fluorinated oil that was incompressible. A decade later, the brand was producing its own watches and unveiled the BR 02, a tonneau-shaped dive watch with a 1000m depth rating, internal rotating bezel and helium escape valve. Then came the BR 03-92 in 2017, the most logical expression of a dive watch for a brand driven largely by military-inspired design. Crucially, bona fide square watch cases are inherently more difficult to seal against ...

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Coll... Jun 26, 2019

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Every couple of years Vacheron Constantin gives one of its watches the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ treatment, constructing the watch entirely in platinum, from case to the stitching on the leather strap. First introduced in 2006, the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ range now consists of nine models, including the Traditionnelle World Time, Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon as well as Traditionnelle Complete Calendar that was launched last year. Now the line is joined by the hand-wound Traditionnelle, a simple, time-only watch executed in the most precious way possible. Small, heavy and monochromatic A focused exercise in classic dress watch design, the Traditionnelle Manual-winding is among the leading candidates in the category of hand-wound, time-only dress watches. It is arguably the quintessential Vacheron Constantin formal watch, being free of complications and superfluous elements. And though it faces strong competition from the likes of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 and Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Traditionnelle ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ (CEP) is unique in being all-platinum, end to end. With the CEP treatment, the watch has evolved to its ultimate form. The dimensions of the case remain unchanged – 38mm wide and just 7.77mm high. It features discreet decorative details like a fluted case back and straight, angular lugs that incorporate the form of a Maltese cross. But in the area where most time-only dress wat...

Rolex Submariner Date 116610LV Review WatchAdvice
Rolex Submariner Date 116610LV Review Jun 25, 2019

Rolex Submariner Date 116610LV Review

Everyday divers’ watch from Rolex The Submariner is a quintessential divers watch produced by Rolex.  The Submariner model represents a historic turning point in diving watches. When the Submariner was released in 1953, it was the first divers watch that had a waterproofness to 100 metres. This combined with the breakthrough Rolex had with its revolutionary Oyster bracelet design in 1926 represented the two significant turning points in the diving watch history.  Rolex had created the Submariner with a specific goal in mind, to be used for underwater exploration and diving. Not only had Rolex met this goal, they also paved the way for how diving watches should be made. When the Submariner was released, it was given to many deep-sea professionals to be worn and tested during their diving exploration missions. Dimitri Rebikoff (a well-known French Engineer recognised for his work involved in underwater photography) loved the watch so much that he stated “it not only held its own when tested in extreme diving conditions but also proved itself to be a vital equipment to a diver’s arsenal”. Over the years, the Submariner has become a modern icon in Rolex’s professional  collection. The Submariner is so popular that it can be found on the wrists of people from many different professions. This particular model is also known  as the ‘Hulk’ due to its beautiful green sunburst dial and bezel.  The dial is not just a standard green finish either. The sunburst dial...

Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket Time+Tide
Nomos Club Campus could be Jun 13, 2019

Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket

Editor’s note: Nomos is a habitual entrant on our ‘best in budget’ lists, and there’s a very good reason for that. Strong looks, great style and serious credibility all add up to a package that punches hard for its price tag. Case in point, the Nomos Club Campus, which was released at Baselworld a few … ContinuedThe post Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph Time+Tide
Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph Editor’s note Jun 13, 2019

Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph

Editor’s note: To paraphrase Sandra’s excellent review of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph - the brand nailed it. Case, movement, dial and all the details are what we want from a heritage style piece in 2019. Pro – it’s expected to be hitting the market quite soon. Con – it’s limited to 100 pieces globally.  When … ContinuedThe post Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10? Time+Tide
Panerai Jun 12, 2019

Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10?

Editor’s pick: Whenever I pop into an op shop (or thrift store for our American readers), I always make sure to have a look at the watches, JUST IN CASE. Because you never know, you might just have the level of luck of this guy who, in 2016, picked up a Panerai that turned out … ContinuedThe post Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold Time+Tide
Jun 9, 2019

Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold

Editor’s note: There aren’t many words in this picture gallery of the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold, because, well, pictures speak louder than words in this case. To that end, we’ll let them do the talking again. Enjoy. We are.   There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine … ContinuedThe post Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blue heaven is the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic Time+Tide
Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Jun 6, 2019

Blue heaven is the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic

Editor’s note: Few brands have the way with ceramic that Hublot has. The fusion-focused brand has pumped so much colour into the ultra-hard material that it’s hard to believe. Take the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic for example …  When it was announced last year, I thought Hublot’s Orlinski case was one of the … ContinuedThe post Blue heaven is the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mid-century modern – Tissot’s excellent Heritage Petite Seconde Time+Tide
Tissot s excellent Heritage Petite Jun 4, 2019

Mid-century modern – Tissot’s excellent Heritage Petite Seconde

Editor’s note: The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde isn’t a new watch but, oh boy, it’s still a good-looking piece of wristwear. The simple case, numerals, and dial texture all add up to an entirely pleasing watch …  The story in a second: Tissot‘s latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending … ContinuedThe post Mid-century modern – Tissot’s excellent Heritage Petite Seconde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rainbow bright! The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power May 29, 2019

Rainbow bright! The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

Editor’s note: Sapphire watches, while technically amazing, sometimes run the risk of being a little - um - dull. Mostly because there’s nothing to really look at (what with the clear case and all). That’s certainly not a problem with the (impressively named) Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow which delivers some … ContinuedThe post Rainbow bright! The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 Time+Tide
Panerai s latest Luminor Tourbillon May 27, 2019

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768

Panerai’s top-tier timepieces go by the name of Lo Scienziato - avant-garde evolutions of the brand’s classic case shapes that really let the watches’ technical side shine.  Of course, the technology is present in the movement: a skeletonised, three-dimensional offering that fills the 48mm case; the P.2005/T calibre boasts a central time and GMT, 24-hour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary  Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin May 25, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary 

Linde Werdelin is one of those brands that knows what it does, and does it well. And what they do is complex cases with numerous cutouts. It’s a strong look, and one that the brand has sensibly stayed loyal to over the years. Their latest limited edition SpidoSpeed Arktis continues the theme.  The 44mm case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze with slate grey dial for 2019 Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Bronze May 22, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze with slate grey dial for 2019

If there was ever a case study for the difference a dial (and bezel) can make, the 2019 edition of the Tudor Black Bay Bronze with its slate grey dial is that watch. The new colour is subtle, and executed in a sophisticated manner, making for a dramatic improvement on the now discontinued khaki/brown version.  … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze with slate grey dial for 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 bronze watches you may have missed from $700 to $7000, including Zelos, Bell & Ross and Montblanc Time+Tide
Bell & Ross May 19, 2019

4 bronze watches you may have missed from $700 to $7000, including Zelos, Bell & Ross and Montblanc

The use of bronze as a case material in watchmaking has surpassed trend to establish itself as a mainstay. Certain bronzed, beautiful models have achieved legend status, such as the Panerai Bronzo, the OG of modern bronze watches, but just as many go undiscovered and unheralded – we compiled a quartet of very different offerings, … ContinuedThe post 4 bronze watches you may have missed from $700 to $7000, including Zelos, Bell & Ross and Montblanc appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Cartier Santos Chronograph Deployant
Cartier Santos Chronograph DEPLOYANT - May 18, 2019

Introducing the Cartier Santos Chronograph

The Cartier Santos sees a major design upgrade with its newly cased line. Notably, the profile of the case, bezel and thickness have become more streamlined. The new case also features a quick release strap design, reminiscent of smart watches -- think Fitbit, Apple Watch. But what really makes this design great again and still a novelty despite its otherwise 'fashionable' status lies in the movement of the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph.