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Lange 1 A. Lange & Söhne

The 1994 watch that relaunched A. Lange & Söhne. Golden-ratio dial and outsize date.

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Zeitwerk A. Lange & Söhne

The 2009 mechanical jumping-digital wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne. Hours and minutes on three discs.

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Datograph A. Lange & Söhne

The 1999 flyback chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne with the in-house Cal. L951.1 movement.

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Saxonia A. Lange & Söhne

One of the four founding references of the 1994 A. Lange & Söhne relaunch. Time-only Saxon classic.

Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake SJX Watches
Raketa Sep 9, 2019

Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake

Produced in the 1980s, the Raketa Kopernik was a nod to the Soviet Union’s space exploration, a Soviet Moon watch of sorts. The hour hand took the form of a golden disc, representing the Sun, while the minute hand was the Moon, taking the form of a large ring. Once an hour the Sun and Moon hands would overlap for an eclipse on the wrist. Named after Nicolaus Copernicus, the Kopernik was imaginatively designed but a typical Soviet-era timepiece in terms of quality. Now Raketa has recreated the original design as the Copernicus wristwatch, which is still made in Russia but boasting upgraded fit and finish. The rocket factory Raketa is Russian for “rocket”, and it is a brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St Petersburg. Founded in 1721 as a stoneware manufacturer, the factory has produced watches since the second world war. Now run by its owners – an Englishman and a Frenchman – Raketa produces has a vertically integrated factory as well as an online store. The Raketa Copernicus has an abstract dial with the Sun and Moon hands against an off-centred sphere that represents the Earth. And it has a graduated colour that goes from dark blue to black, evoking the darkness of outer space. The Copernicus has a steel case – either black-coated or polished – that’s 40.5mm in diameter and a thick 12mm high. It’s fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass on the back. Inside is the cal. 2615 automatic movement that is derived from a Sovie...

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style Quill & Pad
Porsche Design Sep 6, 2019

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style

For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!

In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5230G Bottom row Sep 6, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch

I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel  Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache Sep 5, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel 

Over the years I’ve seen a lot of new chronographs. Some are impressive, and many are ordinary. But few are as hands-down gorgeous as the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache that I first saw at Watches and Wonders in 2015.  With its classical proportions and comely, cow-horn-shaped lugs it was a love-at-first sight affair. However, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Laurent Ferrier’s Controlling Shareholder Takes Charge SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aug 30, 2019

Business News: Laurent Ferrier’s Controlling Shareholder Takes Charge

Highly regarded for its classically finished timepieces, Laurent Ferrier has just announced a major change in its management – Francois Servanin, who owns most of the company, will be taking management control, alongside Laurent Ferrier and his son Christian. Though only being officially announced today, the news was made known to Laurent Ferrier retailers several weeks ago, with Mr Ferrier himself speaking to several to reassure them that it is a new beginning, with great things to come. An entrepreneur who made his fortune with Auverland, a maker of jeeps and armoured vehicles for the French military, Mr Servanin was an auto racer in the 1970s and 1980s, having competed at Le Mans. It was there that he met Mr Ferrier, himself a former racing driver. Mr Servanin bankrolled the founding of Laurent Ferrier, and has a majority stake in the company. Ferrier father and son – Laurent (left) and Christian The gorgeous Galet Tourbillon movement Taking over from outgoing chief executive Vanessa Monestel, Mr Servanin will be the fourth leader of the brand since it was founded in 2013. The management turnover at Laurent Ferrier has led to the brand losing some of the momentum its enjoyed in its early years, when it was a rising star of old school, Genevois watchmaking; Mr Ferrier had spent a large part of his career at Patek Philippe. Laurent Ferrier’s self-winding calibre Since its first two models – the Galet Tourbillon and Galet Micro-Rotor, both developed with the hel...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Aug 26, 2019

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium

A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....

Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux s hot panda chronograph Aug 21, 2019

Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph

Before we start, I feel I should apologise for the above headline. Only, I’m not sure if I should apologise to the Ramones or Girard-Perregaux. Perhaps both. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was reborn at SIHH 2017 - from humble mid-70s beginnings. Since then we’ve seen the sporty collection gradually expand to encompass all the usual complications … ContinuedThe post Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know Time+Tide
F.P. Journe Aug 21, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know

F.P. Journe is an interesting case in the expanding landscape of independent watchmaking. For a watchmaker that produces around 900 pieces per year, the brand is seen in all the right places, regularly winning prizes at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and producing a watch for the Only Watch charity auction for its last … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Here’s an introduction to F.P. Journe, with everything you ever wanted to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: 21st century tech meets Japanese swordsmithing tradition in the Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’  Time+Tide
Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’  Aug 15, 2019

HANDS-ON: 21st century tech meets Japanese swordsmithing tradition in the Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’ 

At first glance, the pairing of a GPS-enabled, solar-powered watch, with a direct lineage to an 800-year-old family tradition in one of Japan’s most culturally important crafts might seem odd, but that’s precisely what we’re looking at with this high-end Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’.  Before we get to the sword side of things, let’s have a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: 21st century tech meets Japanese swordsmithing tradition in the Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe ? Patek Philippe are Aug 11, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe?

Patek Philippe are not known for hi-tech carbon composite case materials, skeleton dials, or really any enthusiastic contemporary flair. What they are known for is being the priest of the Temple of Classicism, considered and purposeful in any direction of development, refusing to bend to ephemeral market tastes. The clearest way this can be seen … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just because – the incredible Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Aug 9, 2019

Just because – the incredible Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’

Earlier this year, Andrew spent some (very) quality time in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton and some of their most serious watchmaking. If you haven’t seen the video, it’s definitely worth a look (as is this one), but we reckon this watch, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is worth a … ContinuedThe post Just because – the incredible Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s family part 1 Aug 8, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection

IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so - they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose - as a navigational tool for aviators - the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph Time+Tide
Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date Aug 8, 2019

Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph

A few weeks ago we were treated to an evening with Piaget, and their thintastic Altiplano collection. And while we had a bunch of watches in our office, and our excellent photographer Jason Reekie on hand, it would have been a shame not to make the most of it. We’ve already seen what the mighty … ContinuedThe post Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019

A lot of new watches are released every year. Big brands will often release 100 or more new unique variants (and fair enough, different dial/strap/material, etc take up a lot of this space), but even so, it’s fair to say that not every new watch gets its time in the sun. Sometimes that’s OK, as … ContinuedThe post You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo Jul 31, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition

I can only imagine the joy that must have been felt in Omega’s design department when it was announced that Tokyo would be hosting the 2020 Olympic Games. Not only has Japan had an incredible influence on design, but their flag - a simple red sun in a white field - lends itself to some interesting … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross 
BR 03-92 Ceramic Heritage Review WatchAdvice
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Ceramic Heritage Jul 17, 2019

Bell & Ross 
BR 03-92 Ceramic Heritage Review

Founded in 1992 as a university project, Bell & Ross was formed by two friends; Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. These two young entrepreneurs had a joint vision of creating a watch that embodied the idea of combining functionality and robustness into one timepiece. When the manufacturing for Bell & Ross watches started, they had to get them made by a third-party manufacturer in Germany by who we know today as SINN. As the first models of Bell & Ross watches were released, they came with the inscription “by SINN” on the dial. SINN’s partnership with Bell & Ross lasted until 2002, when Bell & Ross were able to acquire their own manufacturing plant in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. After the acquisition of the manufacturing plant is when Bell & Ross wanted to expand their range of watch models and create a timepiece that carried their ideologies while keeping the aesthetics of the watch as simple as possible. To do this, they looked towards the military forces, diving commandos and air-forces to draw inspiration from.  Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo knew that the military forces and their counterparts used instruments that have easy readability while having toughness to endure the rough situations. This was the inspiration behind the first model the BR – 01 and also the start of their most iconic BR Instrument range, released in 2005. This watch became one of the most recognisable timepieces in the the watch industry and gave the brand the international exposu...

A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high Time+Tide
Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore Jul 14, 2019

A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high

Editor’s note: Beyond being one of the greatest tennis players of our time, Novak Djokovic is a pretty great watch ambassador. He’s been with Seiko since 2014, and over the years the watch he’s most often seen wearing (and occasionally lending his name to a limited edition) is the Astron. So, after he beat Roger … ContinuedThe post A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition Jul 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer’s Monaco at 50 celebration rolls on - we’ve already seen editions one and two - and the third, formally known as the TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition, has just been announced in New York City.  The basis for this watch is the Calibre 11-powered Monaco (obvs), in its distinctive (and large wearing) … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication” which sold Jul 7, 2019

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever

The timepieces that held the title of “most complicated watch ever”, as well as their famous owners, are mostly well known – save for the long-lost English grand complication commissioned by banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Morgan was a great collector of watches, and his grandest timepiece was a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. It  was the most complicated English watch ever made, and perhaps the most complicated watch in the world at the time of its completion. Though Morgan’s watch has long been surpassed in complexity by other hands, and it bears the name of a defunct English brand, it has arguably the greatest provenance of all super-pocket watches. Unlike James Ward Packard or Henry Graves, who were both wealthy, accomplished, and little known individuals outside their fields, Morgan is still the best known banker in history; the biggest bank in the United States today bears his name. The grandest of all time But first, a brisk walk through the grand complication hall of fame. The most famous most-complicated-watch-ever is, of course, the Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication”, which sold for US$24m in 2014 and still holds the record for the most expensive watch ever sold. Commissioned by American banker Henry Graves Jr in 1925, and delivered in 1933, the Graves pocket watch outdid the now obscure Leroy 01 that was sold in 1904 to a Portuguese millionaire. And it also surpassed the various watches produced for automobile ...

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor’s note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn’t look like it’s getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces … ContinuedThe post In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont’s 2019 collection  Time+Tide
Bremont s 2019 collection  When Jul 4, 2019

VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont’s 2019 collection 

When Bremont burst onto the scene more than 10 years ago they were disruptive outsiders in a staid and often slow-moving industry. Since that time, the brand has gone from strength to strength - something that’s reflected in the solid, no-nonsense watches they make. And the Bremont 2019 collection is no exception, as we found … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont’s 2019 collection  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref Jul 1, 2019

Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor’s note: Trust Breguet to take the comparatively uncomplicated act of adding a second time zone into something extra. Rather than your typical GMT hand scenario, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 demonstrates a very cool, very technical twist on the complication. Read on for Sandra’s review …  The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 … ContinuedThe post Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2019

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018

Quartz often gets a bad rap as the ugly duckling of the watch world. With pejoratives such as “soulless”, and “the quartz watch is entirely dependent on its battery and it has the dedicated ambition to commit suicide as soon as possible”, it takes a beating. And while the latter quote was by a not-insignificant … ContinuedThe post These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002 SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref Jun 28, 2019

Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002

In the Rolex sports watch hall of fame, the GMT-Master II is arguably the most practical. It is a relatively affordable, dual time zone watch; and there are, after all, more people who travel than those who dive or race or sail. At the same time, the GMT-Master has always been available in precious metal, in 18k Everose for instance, and also lavishly bejewelled like the popular sapphire and ruby “SARU”. The new meteorite dial GMT-Master II, on the other hand, is bling meets functionality without the gemstones, making it an unusual and compelling watch. And it’s also the first time Rolex has used meteorite in a watch other than the Daytona or Day-Date. In fact, the meteorite GMT-Master probably the most practical ultra-luxe travel watch out there. And it costs only about US$1600 over the standard white gold GMT-Master with a blue dial, making it a worthwhile upgrade. Maybe “Pan Am” Rolex has not revealed what inspired the meteorite GMT-Master, but the GMT-Master “Pan Am” or “Albino” is obvious. Reputedly made in small numbers for executives at Pan American Airways – the company credited for the creation of the GMT-Master – the GMT-Masters fitted with white dials are either the refs. 6542 or 1675. A handful are known and have sold for well into six figures, but the white dial examples are controversial and often accompanied by unending questions as to whether they are legit. A jewel of a watch In contrast, the modern day equivalent of...

VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature  Time+Tide
Montblanc 1858 releases go back Jun 27, 2019

VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature 

When Montblanc’s 1858 collection burst onto the scene back in 2015 it heralded a bold new direction for the brand, adding a no-nonsense, outdoorsy sensibility to what had, until that point, been a fairly buttoned-up collection of watches.  Since that initial drop, the 1858 has gone from strength to strength, and their 2019 slate of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV Time+Tide
Bremont Jun 22, 2019

Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV

Editor’s note: Everyone loves a good celebrity watch-spotting moment – and they don’t come much better than that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law one of the coolest watches of modern times, the Bremont MBI. You’ve probably seen it before, but it’s definitely worth another look …  Contrary to what you might expect, the greatest … ContinuedThe post Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.