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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black Fratello
Mido Aug 21, 2024

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black

For the new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition, the brand decided to release a black PVD version. At first, this might be surprising due to the Decompression Timer’s colorful dial. If you think about it a little longer, though, it makes sense. The black overall aesthetic ensures that the dial truly pops. […] Visit Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition In Stealthy Black to read the full article.

An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M for the 37th America’s Cup SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Aug 21, 2024

An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M for the 37th America’s Cup

As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment SJX Watches
Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT Aug 14, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT

TAG Heuer has refined their Aquaracer collection and with many improvements, we wanted to see what all the hype was about. Here’s what we thought… What We Love: Better proportions and size On-the-fly micro-adjust New colours and dial aesthetics What We Don’t: Being a Caller GMT rather than a Flyer GMT Cyclops window over the date aperture Some may find the clasp isn’t as sturdy as other pieces on the market Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer has been on a run of late. At the start of 2023, they brought us a new look Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” for its 60th anniversary and seemed to knock it out of the park with these. This run continued through 2023 with new variations of the Carrera, but then mid-year, a range of new Monaco’s in titanium with skeleton dials popped up and we saw Max Verstappen sporting a unique version of one of these on his wrist for much of the year. This year, 2024 saw new Carrera variants come out at LVMH Watch Week, including the Dato and a teal green Tourbillon Chronograph and then at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph based on TAG Heuer’s Only Watch entry was released to much applause. Oh, and let’s not forget the Formula 1 x Kith collaborations. But, all this left us wondering, what about the Aquaracer? We saw smaller versions of the Aquaracer Northern Lights models at LVMH watch week, which gave us a small taste of what’...

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan” SJX Watches
Zodiac Aug 14, 2024

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”

Kudoke has just unveiled an iteration of its signature day-night wristwatch, the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”, a limited edition of just 15 watches for the upscale department store Isetan, the Japanese equivalent of Selfridges or Galeries Lafayette. The new Kudoke 2 is part of the “Indigo” series of timepieces by independent watchmakers with blue dials that pay homage to the traditional Japanese fabric dyeing technique. It retains the familiar Kudoke 2 dial with the hand-engraved day-night indicator at 12 o’clock, but with a vertically-brushed, dark blue finish. Initial thoughts Best known for its value-minded watches with hand-engraved decoration, the German independent sticks to what it does best with the Indigo edition. The blue-and-gold palette works well, with the rhodium-plated elements, namely the hands, logo plaque, and chapter rings complementing the colour. It is an excellent example of the affordable watchmaking with artisanal touches that’s central to Kudoke’s philosophy (and was also the base for our own 2021 Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”). That said, this is one of several variations of the model that different only in dial colour. The many colour versions make the limited-edition concept less interesting in itself, though the Indigo is striking and one of the most appealing of the versions. Priced at JPY1.98 million, or about US$13,500, the Kudoke 2 Indigo is the typical Kudoke value proposition with features rare at this price point. Besides being small-...

First Look – Dive Back in Time with the All-Black Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Monochrome
Mido Aug 13, 2024

First Look – Dive Back in Time with the All-Black Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961

Four years ago, Mido livened up its portfolio with a funky multi-coloured reissue of its 1961 Ocean Star Skin Diver with a decompression table on the dial. Modelled after one of the most sought-after vintage models on the collector’s scene, Mido’s re-edited Rainbow Diver sold out briskly. Predicting the same successful course as the earlier […]

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade SJX Watches
Aug 13, 2024

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade

The Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is Andersen Genève’s new take on its minimalist, digital hour timepiece. Retaining the same specifications, it once against uses the wide expanse of the dial for visual effect. The dial is a large, seamless piece of black jade just 0.4 mm thick that’s been lapped to a perfectly flat, mirrored finish. The glossy black dial is unadorned save for the hour display 12 o’clock, along with a pink gold minute hand matched with pink gold-powder printing. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind vintage jump hour pocket watches with its clean dial, the Andersen Jumping Hours is a perfect canvas for dial decoration given the available space. Even though it looks plain at a distance, the black jade dial is striking in its colour and simplicity, while also revealing the natural grain up close. The time display, however, is unconventional. While the hours are easy to read, the minute register at six is easily and often mistaken for the seconds. Though I can understand the design-driven purpose of the minute sub-dial, I would have done it another way to make reading of the time more intuitive. The quality of work is typical Andersen, which is artisanal and visibly so. It doesn’t have the perfect execution found in a Voutilainen or Akrivia but is done well. The price is commensurate with the quality – at about US$59,000 is more or less mid-range amongst high-end independent watchmakers. Time only in black jade One of the pioneering independent watchm...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509-A Pair Of USA-Exclusive Spring Drive Models Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGA507 Aug 12, 2024

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509-A Pair Of USA-Exclusive Spring Drive Models

Grand Seiko is the unofficial master of finding inspiration in natural phenomena. Many of the brand’s dials are crafted to resemble skies, waters, and landscapes found all over Japan-these two new USA-exclusive limited editions are no exception. The Grand Seiko SBGA507’s blue dial is inspired by the sky over Lake Suwa at dusk. In turn, […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509-A Pair Of USA-Exclusive Spring Drive Models to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969 WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Aug 10, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969

The King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition is a timeless tribute to Seiko’s heritage, reimagined for the modern era. What We Love: Like current Seiko models, this latest King Seiko gets a modern slimmed-down reinterpretation. The multiple polished finishes from the case, bezel, and dial elements to the bracelet! The greenish-blue colour combined with the dragon-scale pattern makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Not everyone may agree with the choice of dial colours for this collection from Seiko The movement needs to match the build quality and high level of finishing on the timepiece. It would’ve been great to get the date wheel to colour-match the new dial colours! Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In July this year, Seiko unveiled a new series of King Seiko dress watches to revive a classic heritage design. Before we get into this latest creation, we first need to look at King Seiko and some of the signature designs that came with it. The name of King Seiko is just as important to Japanese watchmakers as the name and brand of Grand Seiko. The story goes that King Seiko was first launched in 1961 alongside Grand Seiko, who were direct competitors of each other. Seiko did this because of the brand’s relentless pursuit of perfection and quality, as the rivalry between King Seiko and Grand Seiko would produce some exceptional timepieces. The 1960s were seen as the golden era for Seiko, as the brand quickly...

Squale Introduces the 1521 Marina Militare SJX Watches
Blancpain Aug 9, 2024

Squale Introduces the 1521 Marina Militare

To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an  inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Aug 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium

As a brand, Grand Seiko doesn’t exactly skimp on annual new releases. Of course, many of the latest watches are dial variants, so we take extra notice when a completely new model debuts. The titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” was introduced earlier this year, and now we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces. […] Visit Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Pink-Themed Junghans Meister Damen and Meister Fein Kleine Automatics Monochrome
Junghans Meister Damen Aug 8, 2024

Introducing – The New Pink-Themed Junghans Meister Damen and Meister Fein Kleine Automatics

During the 20th century, Junghans recruited some of the best designers to perpetuate the rational, understated German aesthetic that informs the brand’s products. Anton Ziegler, in charge of design from 1930 to 1960, understood the importance of proportion and balance on a dial and the elegance of a slim case, characteristics that have defined the Meister […]

Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Aug 7, 2024

Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena

Did the best just get even better? From the moment the No Date version of the Tonda PF was released, I was sure this was the glorious pinnacle of the Tonda PF line-up. It is the perfect purist take on the Tonda PF that loses the date window and introduces a stunning Golden Siena dial. […] Visit Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena to read the full article.

Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Gets a Red Gold Bracelet SJX Watches
Blancpain s Bathyscaphe Gets Aug 7, 2024

Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Gets a Red Gold Bracelet

Blancpain range of vintage inspired dive watches grows to include a pair of top-of-the-line models, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chronographe Flyback, both in 18k red gold with a matching red gold bracelet. Previously available only with a fabric strap, the new duo feature a gradient blue dial with a sun-ray finish and a matching blue ceramic bezel insert.  Initial thoughts First released in 1956 as a more compact version of the Fifty Fathoms, the Bathyscaphe was reissued as a sportier and smaller sibling of the modern-day Fifty Fathoms. The Bathyscaphe line encompasses complications and various materials, including the recent all-ceramic models. The new pair continue to extend the line in terms of materials; they are the only models in the entire Fifty Fathoms range with a matching gold bracelet. The all-gold look is of course not for everyone, but the new pair have an extravagant appeal, particularly the chronograph that looks and feels like an ultra-luxe sports watch. The all-gold look, however, comes at a price. Both are cost US$55,300, which is far from the accessible price point of their all-ceramic counterparts. The price is arguably justified by Blancpain’s easily discernible quality, though the brand lacks the cachet of its peers in the same price segment, which makes these high-end models a very niche offering.  The red gold models are also available with a fabric strap. Fully red gold Both the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chr...

Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors Fratello
Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days Aug 7, 2024

Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors

Seiko caught us by surprise when it reintroduced the King Seiko name back in January of 2022. The journey began with five dial variants in a 37mm case. I loved these so much that I immediately ordered one for myself. Now, two-and-a-half years on, Seiko proves that the collection is here to stay. The range […] Visit Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors to read the full article.

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Aug 6, 2024

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project

Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.  Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.  Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Aug 6, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...

Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie Fratello
Casio ak DJ Willie Aug 5, 2024

Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie

With Steamboat Willie now in the public domain, the film’s main character is ready to let loose! In this second Steamboat Willie-inspired release, IFL Watches lets Willie work the crowd as a DJ on the dial of a G-Shock CasiOak. The hand-painted dial lights up under UV light to brighten up Willie’s party. It creates […] Visit Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai” WatchAdvice
Seiko s Prospex 4R Diver Aug 2, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”

We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Aug 1, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition

Today, Seiko introduces a limited edition of a recently updated watch. This is the new Prospex SPB473, which has the specifications of the old, beloved SPB143. This version dials up the summer vibes with a bright faded dial inspired by the Greek island of Zakynthos. There is plenty to unpack, so let’s dive in! The […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II With A 22K-Gold-Plated Case Fratello
Fears Jul 31, 2024

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II With A 22K-Gold-Plated Case

English brand Fears introduces a new version of its core model, the Brunswick. This new version reintroduces gold to the collection after the Midas version was discontinued in 2018. The new Midas II features a gold-plated 38mm cushion case and a beautiful bead-blasted dial. Additionally, the Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II comes with two straps […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II With A 22K-Gold-Plated Case to read the full article.