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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Why I Bought It: Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 Seems Aug 7, 2025

Why I Bought It: Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1

Seems it wasn’t that long ago (in reality, it was close to a year ago) that I wrote my first “Objects of Desire” article about the watches of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, finishing with: given the prices of their watches I was unlikely to be able to buy any of the ones I truly lusted after anytime soon. My observation at the time was “go big or go home." As you will see, I've ended up going big and am now the proud owner of a Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1.

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Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Aug 6, 2025

Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review

The Omega Speedmaster is a strange watch. Omega’s most iconic chronograph enjoys an enviable history that has made it a household name, and instantly recognizable to even the most casual of enthusiasts. It has aged gracefully, changing surprisingly little since its introduction in 1957, which has no doubt buoyed its status as a bona fide icon. Along with, you know, landing on the moon and all that. But digging just a little bit deeper than the Moonwatch Professional reveals a mother lode of Speedmaster references of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Getting a grasp on the full lineage of the Speedmaster is daunting, and it’s something that we plan on breaking down in layman's terms in the near future, but it’s important to understand how these older (and at times obscure) references inform Omega’s latest and greatest releases. Of course, I am talking about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial. The newest Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, released earlier this year, is the first regular-production steel Moonwatch to receive a white dial. There have been plenty of other Speedmasters to feature a white dial - from recent limited-edition Snoopy references, to the famed Alaska Project watches that originated in 1969 (and were seen again in a reissue from 2008) - so it’s not an entirely new look for the Moonwatch. This new variation is a bit different and, to my eye, draws inspiration from a different reference in the back catalog: the so-called Albino ...

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Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised SJX Watches
Breguet s dragon was Aug 6, 2025

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised

Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...

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Interview: Kari Voutilianen on Urban Jürgensen and Artisanal Watchmaking SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Aug 6, 2025

Interview: Kari Voutilianen on Urban Jürgensen and Artisanal Watchmaking

Urban Jürgensen made its comeback earlier this year with an impressive line-up that includes the flagship UJ-1 Tourbillon. Much of the credit for the brand’s watches and watchmaking goes to Kari Voutilainen. Mr Voutilainen has imbued Urban Jürgensen’s watches with the high standards of quality synonymous with his own brand, resulting in watches that are equally exquisitely craft and steeply priced, but arguably worth it. Though best known for his eponymous brand, Mr Voutilainen is also co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen (and also a minority shareholder). His fellow steward of the Danish marque that is now headquartered in Bienne, Switzerland, is Alex Rosenfield. While Mr Voutilainen is in charge of watchmaking, Mr Rosenfield leads marketing and branding. From left: Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield, and Alex Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen Given the opportunity to speak at length with Mr Voutilainen, I could not refuse. We discussed the true nature of artisanal work, ranging from movement decoration to guilloche, the details of Urban Jürgensen’s movements, and more. You can find his insightful answers below. But interestingly, my conversation with Mr Voutilainen reminded me of the first time I met him, which was at Baselworld 2006 when he launched the Masterpiece Chronograph (with a special hairspring from what turned out to be a questionable supplier). Even two decades ago, well before he was famous, Mr Voutilainen was passionate about the same thing...

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Hands On With Two New Bauhaus-Inspired Sternglas Marus 2.0 Divers Fratello
Aug 5, 2025

Hands On With Two New Bauhaus-Inspired Sternglas Marus 2.0 Divers

When the Sternglas Marus 2.0 dive watches landed on my desk, I had to dig into the Fratello archives. I knew I had written about a Sternglas diver before. As it turns out, that was the first iteration of the Sternglas Marus released in 2021. Four years on, we’re graced with a duo of new […] Visit Hands On With Two New Bauhaus-Inspired Sternglas Marus 2.0 Divers to read the full article.

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Longines Legend Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Aug 5, 2025

Longines Legend Diver Review

The Longines Legend Diver is one of the brand’s most popular and lauded vintage-inspired watches due to its distinct style and tremendous value for money. The original Legend Diver that serves as the template for the contemporary iterations is the Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042 that was launched back in 1959. In 2007, Longines debuted the Heritage Revival, which was a faithful reissue that was followed up with a date-window version in 2009. Fast forward to 2017 and Longines began to expand this collection to include options like a Milanese bracelet as well as a 36mm iteration to join the existing 42mm model. Then in 2023, we saw the Longines Legend Diver debut in a 39mm wide case that serves as the template for the white-dial iteration I review here. Of course, this is a truncated version of the Longines Legend Diver story, and you can read the full version by our resident historian Mark Bernardo here. There are currently eight dial-color variations in the Longines Legend Diver family: beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, and white, which is the most recent and the one I am going to get into here. If I had to pick a favorite, it might actually be the orange, which is more of a muted terra cotta that looks just excellent. That said, the white-dial model introduced earlier this year is a sleeper diver that stays with you long after you first see it. It’s not too difficult to nail a watch when you’ve mastered dial color techniques the way Longines has, but ...

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Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them) Fratello
Omega Speedmasters Aug 5, 2025

Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them)

I bought my first Omega Speedmaster Professional in 1999. This is also when my Speedy collecting officially began. During those 25 years of buying (and selling) Speedmaster watches, I made my fair share of mistakes. This was mainly because, back then, there wasn’t as much information available as there is today. But I also made […] Visit Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them) to read the full article.

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Has Seiko Reignited A Little Magic With Its New Limited Edition 5 Sport? Fratello
Seiko Reignited Aug 5, 2025

Has Seiko Reignited A Little Magic With Its New Limited Edition 5 Sport?

Seiko is an absolute titan in the watch industry. The number of key timepieces in the brand’s catalog is too long to list here. Nevertheless, it’s a brand that has faced an identity crisis over the last half-decade or so, I would argue. The new SRPL91 and SRPL93 Seiko 5 Sports series show just how […] Visit Has Seiko Reignited A Little Magic With Its New Limited Edition 5 Sport? to read the full article.

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Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698 Fratello
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models Aug 4, 2025

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698

Panerai is no stranger to working with the Italian Navy. The two have joined forces on watches, technical tools, and other products for over a century. As watch enthusiasts, we’ve become accustomed to these collaborative projects featuring the bold Marina Militare typography on the dial. Today, the partnership expands and is dedicated to the Aviazione […] Visit Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698 to read the full article.

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Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Aug 4, 2025

Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025?

The greatest watch story ever told is the story of the Omega Speedmaster, the first watch worn on the Moon. That’s a fact. Another fact is that luxury in general is not about selling products. Rather, it is about emotion. That certainly is the case with post-Quartz Crisis luxury watches. The key to successfully selling […] Visit Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025? to read the full article.

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Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F; SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 4, 2025

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F;

It’s difficult to picture what the independent watchmaking landscape would look like without MB&F;. In some ways, it feels like the brand has always been around, perhaps because for me, it has. I first discovered MB&F; in 2008 when the HM2 was launched, but even back then the brand had an aura of polish that belied its short history. With the benefit of hindsight, Max Büsser’s decision to step away from corporate life, and leave the top job at Harry Winston Rare Timepieces to build his own brand rooted in collaboration, transparency, and imagination, seems obvious. But at the time, it was seen as a risky move that would never work. To understand why it did, we need to go back to the early 2000s. Max Büsser during the launch of the HM1 It’s called what? Let’s rewind. In the early 2000s the watch community was obsessed with the topic of in-house movements. The internet was slowly helping collectors find one another and share insider knowledge, which revealed how many watches were powered by the same handful of movements. If a new brand wanted to be taken seriously, it was increasingly important to be a manufacture and do as much as possible in-house. It was a simpler time, and we had yet to see such widespread misuse of the term.  So when Mr Büsser explained that MB&F; stood for ‘Maximilian Büsser & Friends,’ and that he would actively celebrate the friends and collaborators that he was working with, people told him he was crazy. But he understood that the coll...

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New Watch Releases You May Have Missed from IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bremont, and Minase Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Bremont Aug 3, 2025

New Watch Releases You May Have Missed from IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bremont, and Minase

Happy first weekend of August, and welcome to another new release summary! Would that make it a “summery” summary? Bad alliterative jokes aside, we’ve seen some exciting new pieces from big-name watchmakers and microbrands alike. Rounding out this release list are a colorful new IWC Top Gun collab, a Jaeger-LeCoulture that shoots for the stars, a meteoric Bremont with lofty aspirations, and a Minase that brings a little winter chill to the summer sun.  Read on, and let us know if there is a new release that you think we missed out on in the comments! IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar Far from their first Top Gun release, IWC’s new chronograph may not seem that exciting at first glance. But the new Miramar edition has a secret weapon: a Pantone hue of the same name. Other Top Gun IWCs have been made available in shades of black, gray, and beige, which although appropriate for the military-theme, aren’t terribly exciting from a color perspective. The Miramar, then, stands out with its unapologetically cheery blue, inspired by the light blue t-shirts worn by TOPGUN flight instructors under their flight suits.  It’s not just the color that gives the Miramar an edge, though. Design-wise, the left-leaning subdials at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, balanced out by the dual date and day windows, provide for a handsomely readable aesthetic. The typeface is characteristic of other IWC Top Gun watches, with rounded sans serif numeral...

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Watches, Stories, and Gear: Rolex Goes Atomic, Brooklyn’s First Rooftop Soccer Pitch, James Bond’s New Writer, and a Rolling Duffel Turned Workstation Worn & Wound
Hublot X KidSuper Rooftop Football Aug 2, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Rolex Goes Atomic, Brooklyn’s First Rooftop Soccer Pitch, James Bond’s New Writer, and a Rolling Duffel Turned Workstation

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Hublot X KidSuper Rooftop Football Pitch Luxury Swiss watchmaker, Hublot, renowned for creative and bold innovation and its deep ties to the world of sport, culture and art, is proud to announce its official partnership with the new rooftop football pitch at KidSuper World in Williamsburg. This collaboration brings together two creative powerhouses united by a shared devotion to football, avant-garde design, and artistic expression. Founded by artist, designer, and former professional soccer player, Colm Dillane, KidSuper is a globally recognized creative collective that is redefining American fashion. At the heart of KidSuper’s identity is a love for soccer – not just as a sport, but as a unifying language, lifestyle, and global connector. The new football pitch that now sits atop KidSuper World represents this ethos in its purest form: a creative space where sport, design, and storytelling converge. To kick off the grand opening, Hublot and KidSuper have revealed a custom referee board for the pitch designed by Colm Dillane. This exciting start to the partnership promises new dynamic creative projects and engaging on-field activations that will capture the spirit...

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Fratello EDC: Jorg Shares his Everyday Carry Essentials From Olympus, Opinel, Hobonichi, And More Fratello
Aug 2, 2025

Fratello EDC: Jorg Shares his Everyday Carry Essentials From Olympus, Opinel, Hobonichi, And More

I am going last in this series of EDC articles, and that only seems fitting. While I do choose the products that I use daily with great care, I hardly connect to a greater EDC concept. This often results in a bag filled with a lot - and I mean a lot - of random […] Visit Fratello EDC: Jorg Shares his Everyday Carry Essentials From Olympus, Opinel, Hobonichi, And More to read the full article.

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