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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 Fratello
Jul 30, 2026

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400

In the past decade, we have seen many once-defunct Swiss brands return to the watch industry. A few recent returnees that come to mind are Gallet and Universal Genève. Today, another legendary brand joins the ranks. It’s the return of the classic Swiss brand Sicura. Under the leadership of the famous Ernest Schneider in the […] Visit Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 to read the full article.

Introducing - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, A Glassbox Inspired by Japanese Racing Heritage Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, A Glassbox Inspired by Japanese Racing Heritage

Three years after the launch of the original 42mm Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa by Bamford, TAG Heuer renews its collaboration with a new limited edition, this time based on the brand’s modern 39mm Carrera Glassbox Chronograph and inspired by Team Ikuzawa’s iconic Roadmaster stopwatches of the 1970s and 1980s. The story of Team Ikuzawa […]

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast Fratello
Bianchet Jul 30, 2026

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast

I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.

The Rolex Presidential: Everything you need to know and the Marilyn Monroe drama WatchRider
Rolex Presidential Everything you need Jul 30, 2026

The Rolex Presidential: Everything you need to know and the Marilyn Monroe drama

Few wristwatches in the world carry the immediate visual impact and prestige of the “Rolex Presidential.” If you’ve noticed a sudden surge in search traffic around this iconic timepiece, you aren’t alone. Driven by record-high precious metal values, celebrity endorsements, and a resurgence in classic luxury aesthetics, the world’s most famous status symbol is having a major moment online. First Things First: “Rolex Presidential” Isn’t Its Real Name Let’s start with a little horological trivia to impress your friends: Rolex has never officially sold a watch called the “Presidential.” The watch’s actual name is the Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956. It earned its famous nickname because: It came on a specific, three-piece semi-circular link bracelet that Rolex officially named the “President” bracelet. It quickly became the go-to accessory for the most powerful world leaders on the planet. Also, Rolex has a strict “no peasants allowed” rule for the Day-Date: it is made exclusively in 18k gold (yellow, white, or Everose) or 950 platinum. You cannot buy a stainless-steel Day-Date from Rolex. If someone tries to sell you a steel one in an alley, run. Why Is the Search Volume Skyrocketing? Exclusive Precious Metals:With gold market values reaching historic peaks, owning solid gold horology represents both a luxury flex and a tangible asset. Pop Culture Dominance: From executive boardrooms to sports stars and viral social media unboxings, ...

Casio A1000SP-7: The Premium Digital Classic now with Sapphire and Full Metal WatchRider
Casio A1000SP-7 Jul 29, 2026

Casio A1000SP-7: The Premium Digital Classic now with Sapphire and Full Metal

Casio has added a new model to its Vintage range for July 2026, and the A1000SP-7 is more than another colour change. It keeps the familiar rectangular digital display but surrounds it with a stainless-steel case, a solid metal bracelet and, most importantly, a sapphire crystal. This is the specification that makes the new model stand out among Casio’s classic digital watches. Sapphire crystal is the main attraction Sapphire is much more resistant to everyday scratches than acrylic or normal mineral glass. It is not impossible to damage, but keys, desk edges and normal daily wear are far less likely to leave scratches on it. Sapphire is still unusual on an affordable digital Casio, so this upgrade gives the A1000SP-7 a real advantage rather than a change that exists only for decoration. The crystal also plays a part in the design. Casio has applied a striped vapor-deposition treatment to its underside. Below it sits a brass dial with a sunray finish. Together, these surfaces create visible depth around the digital screen, with the pattern changing as light hits the watch from different angles. The result is more interesting than a flat silver face while remaining easy to wear with almost anything. Full stainless-steel construction The case and bezel are made from stainless steel. Casio also fits a solid stainless-steel band with a one-touch three-fold clasp. Hairline-brushed and mirror-polished surfaces are combined across the band, giving it a mix of matte and shiny are...

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Jul 29, 2026

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

It’s devilishly easy to be reeled in by the promise of a limited edition item. The allure of exclusivity, the potential for appreciation, the collectability factor: all perfectly reasonable excuses to cash in on a limited watch. Still, most enthusiasts (myself included) are understandably frustrated when these cool limited models come at a hefty price tag or feel like unobtainium due to double-digit production volume. Enter watches like the new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip”, which, while technically limited at 12,000 units, promises a more affordable and obtainable entry into the limited edition collectible world, while still retaining some of that “exclusive” magic.  Citizen’s Tsuyosa collection has made quite the name for itself as a bold, sub-$1,000 line of automatic watches. Most of the models involve loud colors and subtle, minimalist design, making them great choices for everyday wear, or a new enthusiast’s first mechanical watch. The Time Slip joins two other skin diver-adjacent Shore models in the Tsuyosa line. Like the non-limited previous models, it boasts 100 meters of water resistance within a 40mm stainless steel case. Inside, a caliber 8210 automatic movement powers the stop second and date (with a “cyclops” style magnifying window) functions. It’s a neat little package that allows for the robust longevity of a mechanical movement, but even with a unidirectional bezel and added legibility features like luminous hands and indices, it d...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Jul 29, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices

This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.  Remi Guillemin at the rostrum in Geneva.Photo courtesy Christie's  The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Result...

Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft Fratello
Jul 29, 2026

Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft

Artisans de Genève is an independent watchmaking workshop offering handcrafted timepiece customization and restoration services. AdG is neither associated nor affiliated with the makers/brands of those timepieces. Artisans de Genève carries out work at the sole request of its customers, on their timepieces, for their private use only. The Artisans de Genève are a group […] Visit Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions Monochrome
Montblanc Jul 29, 2026

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions

Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39: Did Tudor Just Fix the Chronograph’s Biggest Flaw? WatchRider
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 28, 2026

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39: Did Tudor Just Fix the Chronograph’s Biggest Flaw?

For years, the watch-collecting corners of the internet have echoed with the same tragic lament: “The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is too big! It’s too thick! The sides are too flat!” Honestly, the complaining always cracks me up. I wear the 41mm Black Bay Chrono regularly, and as a woman who supposedly falls into the “needs a smaller watch” demographic, I’ve never once felt like I was lugging around a grandfather clock on my wrist. I think the 41mm wears beautifully. But apparently, enough guys shed tears in the comments sections over those few extra millimeters that Tudor finally decided to pass out the tissues and downsize.  Let’s talk about the yellow elephant in the room. Enter the Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 (M79310N-0001). If you’re going to shrink a watch, you might as well make it loud enough that people still notice it. Tudor absolutely nailed the visual impact here. The watch has quickly earned the “Bumblebee” nickname thanks to its vibrant matte yellow dial heavily contrasted by two black snailed sub-counters. Complete with Tudor’s signature lumed Snowflake hands, a domed sapphire crystal, and a black anodized aluminum tachymeter bezel, it walks a perfect line between vintage motorsport heritage and modern swagger. While I will defend the bold, chunky stance of the 41mm all day long, I have to give credit where credit is due, the engineering on the 39mm case is undeniably impressive. Tudor didn’t just shave 2mm off the width; they completely ...

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Hodinkee
Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Although Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm

Although the most current form of the Longines Hydroconquest has only been around since March of this year, it comes up in a lot of conversations. Since its release, it has found considerable relevance with the value-focused audience, managing to strike a balance that is becoming increasingly rare – strong enthusiast value from a major brand at a competitive sub-luxury price point. In a space that used to be dominated by Omega (and more recently, Tudor), Longines has stepped up with an offering that checks a lot of boxes, including the fact that this new and nicely proportioned diver rocks a price tag that feels more 2016 than 2026. Launched in 2007 as a dive-themed spin on the brand's longstanding Conquest line, the Hydroconquest has had a handful of generations that progressively refined what started as a quirky diver with oversized numerals, chiseled crown guards, and a characterful hour hand with a diamond-shaped lume plot. Until recently, with the launch of the latest generation, that was the known format of the Hydroconquest. With modern positioning, it was just unconventional enough to stand out among its peers, and the brand's alignment with Swatch allowed for reliable movements, attractive price points, and the chance of local retail availability. An example of a 2018 Hydroconquest in 41mm offered as a US market LE.  Then, earlier this year, Longines launched this latest iteration in 42mm and, yes, 39mm. The watch you see here is the 39mm example, and its steel...

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: The Enlightened Empress - Maria Theresa and the Mechanics of Wonder Worn & Wound
Tudor England Jul 28, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: The Enlightened Empress - Maria Theresa and the Mechanics of Wonder

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. Maria Theresa was the ruler of the Habsburg monarchy from 1740 until her death in 1780, and the only woman to hold the position in her own right. Though crowned as Archduchess of Austria and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, her true authority came from willpower, reform, and image-making. Maria Theresa ruled not as a king in disguise, but as a monarch in her own right, one who embraced both tradition and the flux of the Enlightenment. Horology, like art and music, became part of her sovereign language and a way to express her modernising ambitions and cultivated authority. Maria Theresa was born in Vienna on the 13th of May 1717, the eldest daughter of Emperor Charles VI and Empress Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel. As a child of the Habsburg dynasty, she grew up in the Hofburg Palace (below) surrounded by the rituals and splendour of imperial court life. Although her father’s hopes ...

Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead

If you clicked on this article, it probably means that Swatch didn’t select you as one of the 1,969 lucky people who can buy the MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 with its Moonshine Gold dial, hands, and pushers. If it is of any comfort to you, none of us at Fratello got one either. […] Visit Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki

Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...

Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, Mike is in Florida, and Balazs is in Hungary. But we’re here for you! In today’s discussion, we tackle a listener suggestion. We’re talking about entry-level watches and how brands approach this. Hint: it’s very different today, with greater expectations from the buyer. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches to read the full article.

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet

The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series Monochrome
Ming Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series

There’s a new indie watch brand on the scene. It seems that we’re telling this story every week. Sometimes, or should I say rather often, these new ventures are coming with pretty fascinating inaugural watches. So is the case of Atelier Pieters, a company founded by couple Maarten and Jessica Pieters. Two watchmakers, one workshop, […]

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch

In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Just Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch

Just last week, we published a Reference Points video on the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch. The complication itself—a.k.a. the rattrapante—is incredibly important in the brand's history, forming the backbone for some of its greatest and most coveted watches of all time. However, you can't talk about the history of the split without understanding Patek's pocket watches. It's a story that eventually led to one of the brand's most meaningful relationships with a supplier that helped it grow into a powerhouse, a relationship that would last over a century. Instead of going deep in the weeds on pocket watches in our main Reference Points, we're spinning it off into this secondary article—an addendum of sorts—for those who want a bit more background. The story won't be exhaustive; Patek continued to make split-second pocket watches long after they began making the same complication in wristwatch form, and some such watches deserve (and have had) their own standalone stories. There are also many different versions because Patek, at the time, didn't make things in batches the way they would starting in the 1930s. You could probably write 20,000 words on these pocket watches, but rather than go that deep, here's an overview of Patek's split-seconds pocket watches, with a focus on Victorin Piguet's movements. Understanding Patek's History of Split-Seconds Pocket Watches (1878 to 1970s) and the Importance of Victorin Piguet If you read the first part of our story, y...