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Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal Time+Tide
Patek Philippe sales Feb 15, 2021

Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal

Yessir, the cone of silence surrounding the manufacture of Patek Philippe has lifted twice in a week. The brand are surfing atop of a media wave of their own making. Only last week we reported first on the discontinuation of the already near-impossible to get Nautilus ref. 5711, and in our story here we shared … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Feb 13, 2021

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses

It turns out that a year of quasi-isolation and abnormality can do things to a person, like make them write a poem about how they can’t think of what to write until they look at something new to spark inspiration. Luckily for Joshua Munchow, he happened to have such an item in his possession, at least temporarily: here he tests out the brand-new Zenith Chronomaster Sport fresh off the heels of its debut during the digital LVMH Watch Week 2021.

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...

Longines Remakes  the 1950s Silver Arrow SJX Watches
Longines Remakes Feb 10, 2021

Longines Remakes the 1950s Silver Arrow

Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes-Benz Formula 1 cars of the 1950s, the Longines Silver Arrow was introduced in 1956. Typical of mid-20th century gentlemen’s watches, the Silver Arrow is a functional but elegant design with a discreet flourish in the form of fluted hour markers. Notably, the Silver Arrow was first reproduced about a decade ago, but with a date and simpler execution all around. Now it returns as a more sophisticated remake that is far closer to the vintage original, but with a latest generation ETA movement equipped with a silicon hairspring. Initial thoughts Like the brand’s other recent remakes, the Silver Arrow maintains the look and feel of the original, albeit enlarged as most reproductions are. The dial has the details of the original, as does the thin case and even the crown. Longines’ Heritage remakes are often modelled on military-issue or sports watches, resulting in a strongly utilitarian aesthetic. The Silver Arrow is different, offering another look while still preserving the strong value of Longines’ historical remakes. Priced at US$2,100, the Silver Arrow will be difficult to beat in terms of classical watches in its price segment. Silver Arrow redux The silver dial features unusual, fluted indices just like the vintage original. That, along with the sword hands and correct typography create a faithful replica of the 1956 Silver Arrow. As is standard practice, the remake is larger than the original, although the new Silver Arr...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour Time+Tide
Feb 7, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour

The vintage vibe already seems strong this year as we clearly see in new releases from Big Box brands and microbrands alike. So what’s happened to the modern, rugged sports chronograph, a staple of any decent watch collection? Well, have a look at the Sirrush Corbetti. Here’s a microbrand debut that just might possess that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Happy Chinese New Year Of The Ox 2021 With 8 Auspicious Ox-Themed Wristwatches Quill & Pad
Zodiac Feb 4, 2021

Happy Chinese New Year Of The Ox 2021 With 8 Auspicious Ox-Themed Wristwatches

It is now a tradition for watch brands to commemorate Chinese New Year by creating beautiful, decorative, limited editions artistically depicting the appropriate sign of the Chinese zodiac. The Year of the Ox – which is the second animal in the Chinese 12-year zodiac cycle – begins on February 12, 2021. Elizabeth Doerr shares 8 of this year's colorful offerings here.

HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Jan 31, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight

The expression “luxury sports watch” is often hideously misused and exaggerated. But here the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt. Serious swagger and hyper-fresh pops of green are the order of the day to bring a bright spark of sharp contemporary design into a world of vintage homage. First … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Posts Full-Year Loss SJX Watches
Longines Jan 28, 2021

Business News: Swatch Group Posts Full-Year Loss

From a robust profit of CHF748m the year prior, Swatch Group ended 2020 with a net loss of CHF53m – the first in decades for the Swiss watch conglomerate that owns brands like Omega, Longines, and Tissot. This reversal of fortune was attributed to the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced many of its retail stores to close while putting a halt to international travel. On an operating level, Swatch Group eked out a tiny CHF52m profit – compared to CHF1.02 billion the year before. The year’s results were mitigated by an improvement in the second half of 2020, with sales in the second half of the year rose 54.7% compared to the previous six months, as economic activity resumed in Asia with pandemic restrictions lifted, particularly in China, which experience double-digit growth for the full year. And the Swatch Group also had to face a virus of the digital kind in the second half of the year. Reported in information-technology news but not in the mainstream press, the group suffered a cyber attack in September, leading to a mention of “a 10-day production interruption” at Omega in the results announcement. Hit harder than most With jewellery selling better than luxury watches, fellow Swiss rival Richemont was buoyed by its pair of jewellery brands that helped plug the hole caused by its faltering watch division. Although Swatch Group owns American jeweller Harry Winston, the bulk of its revenue is generated by watches and watch components. Net sales fell to CHF5.59 bil...

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Contrasts Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Jan 24, 2021

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Contrasts

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon “IWC Racing” edition piques Joshua Munchow's interest thanks to its connection between time, flight, and mechanics. This latest iteration of the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon is new for 2021 and provides an extremely attractive proposition for the historically minded pilot’s watch fan. Here Joshua explains why.

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Jan 19, 2021

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review

Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it!  Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 7, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio

After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich” which Jan 5, 2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4  Sensational Highlights From Glashütte’s Milestone 175th Anniversary In 2020 Featuring A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, Nomos Glashütte, And Moritz Grossmann Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Nomos Glashütte Jan 3, 2021

4 Sensational Highlights From Glashütte’s Milestone 175th Anniversary In 2020 Featuring A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, Nomos Glashütte, And Moritz Grossmann

Sabine Zwettler highlights four sensational watches launched in 2020 that in some way commemorate Glashütte’s 175th Anniversary. These are all limited special editions that she will keep in her heart as personal highlights from the year that turned the world upside down.

All 5 Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Editions – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Editions Jan 2, 2021

All 5 Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Editions – Reprise

Silicon, long in use as a material in the electronics industry, has many advantages for mechanical watchmaking: it is 60 percent harder and 70 percent lighter than steel; non-magnetic; resistant to corrosion and shock; and generally needs no lubrication. These qualities motivated Patek Philippe to declare in 2005 that, “Silicon is the fabric of the future” and to found its Advanced Research department. Meet all five limited edition Advanced Research pieces released thus far right here.

Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2005: 100% Grand Cru Vineyards Make For A Seamless New Prestige Champagne Quill & Pad
Dec 29, 2020

Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2005: 100% Grand Cru Vineyards Make For A Seamless New Prestige Champagne

Henriot is an interesting winemaker that often sneaks in under the radar, which is surprising as it produces champagnes of exquisite quality. The Henriot range comprises the NV Brut Souverain, an NV Blanc de Blancs, a Rosé, a vintage Brut, a vintage Rosé, the prestige champagne Hemera, and an outlier, Cuve 38. Ken Gargett pours himself a few glasses, reports here, and calls it a job well done.

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Dec 27, 2020

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020

Twenty-twenty was a surprisingly good year in independent watchmaking – despite everything – with a fair number of compelling creations by watchmakers of all stripes. From Bernard Lederer at the top to Stefan Sarpaneva at the other end of the price spectrum, the watchmakers showed that the world of independent horology continued to turn in an abnormal year. Here’s a roundup of the best of 2020, led by the impressive and expensive, but also including the eminently affordable. In terms of pure technical achievement, Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer is hard to top. Building on the work of George Daniels and Abraham Louis Breguet, Mr Lederer constructed a movement equipped with a double natural escapements, each with its own remontoir and powered by its own going train. While the design of the watch doesn’t do justice to the mechanics, the movement is outstanding. In fact, the only other watch in 2020 comparable to the Central Impulse Chronometer was surprisingly from an establishment brand, or more specifically a subsidiary of a big name, the FB 2RE by Ferdinand Berthoud, which has Chopard as its parent comment. The movement of the Central Impulse Chronometer. Photo – Bernhard Lederer Also conceived with chronometry in mind, the new Chronomètre à Résonance movement is very much a new and improved version of the original, which has become the hallmark watch of F.P. Journe. Now featuring a remontoir d’egalite for each going train – which mea...

Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition: From Hashtag To Compelling Pilot’s Watch Rooted In History Quill & Pad
Tutima Dec 11, 2020

Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition: From Hashtag To Compelling Pilot’s Watch Rooted In History

The hashtag #fliegerfriday is dedicated to the genre of flieger, or pilot’s, watches posted on social media on Fridays. Tutima, which has a long history in pilot's watches, asked Bhanu Chopra for some advice on developing a special-edition #fliegerfriday chronograph and together they came up with the Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition. Here is its compelling story.

After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford

We are beyond excited to introduce the Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 Limited Edition of 50 pieces which is available here and the GMT2, a Limited Production 2021 model that will only be available for 12 months. These are the first two watches ever released by Time+Tide, and they arrive to mark a year when … ContinuedThe post After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why

There are three reasons to gift your child a smartwatch. One, it is a great way to introduce your kid(s) to the horological world and get them going early on their love for a timekeeper on the wrist. The second reason is timing; the holidays are almost here. The third reason is, having done some … ContinuedThe post A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.