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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series Fratello
Glashütte Original 70s Series Immediately after Sep 24, 2026

A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series

Immediately after I saw the images of the new Glashütte Original 70s series, I was intrigued. With the square case shape and textured dials, these new watches instantly reminded me of a classic Citizen watch my father wore in the 1980s, which I still have at home. As you’ll understand, a connection like that is […] Visit A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series to read the full article.

First Look - Longines Expands the Spirit Pilot Collection with Four New Sky Blue References Monochrome
Longines Expands Sep 24, 2026

First Look - Longines Expands the Spirit Pilot Collection with Four New Sky Blue References

The Longines Spirit collection was launched in 2020 and has since evolved into one of the brand’s main contemporary families, offering watches with vintage-inspired aviation cues yet with modern specifications. The range now comprises six models, including the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback introduced in 2025 – streamlined, more focused and more compact models with […]

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Longines Spirit Pilot Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics)

What We Know Not all of the releases we cover are horological heavy hitters or groundbreaking mechanical inventions. Yes, plenty are, but sometimes a simple new dial color is worth talking about. And in the context of Longines' mighty newsworthy year, with several extremely well-received launches like the Hydroconquest and the Master Collection Monopushers already in the recent catalog, a new colorway for the Spirit Pilot and Pilot Flyback still feels worth discussing. The new time-only Spirit Pilot in blue.Image, courtesy Longines. The second iteration of these two watches, since its update last year, introduces a matte blue dial (and a glossy blue ceramic bezel insert on the chronograph). At a high level, that's kind of it. But with the change from a gilt-style look, swapping the golden accents of the applied numerals, chapter ring chamfer, and printing, this is the first time the latest generation of Spirit Pilot feels like a decidedly modern product. Yes, you lose a little bit of the vintage charm, but the new versions are not replacing those "gilt" editions, so now you have the same models in two very different aesthetic contexts. I won't spend too much time on specs because they remain unchanged—the time-only Spirit Pilot is 39mm by 11.5mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.2mm, and the Flyback chronograph is 39.5mm by 13.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm. The time-only model features the automatic L888.4 caliber, which is COSC-certified and offers a 72-hour power reserve with...

Introducing: The Newly Revamped Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date And 5527 Chronograph Hodinkee
Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Newly Revamped Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date And 5527 Chronograph

What We Know A refresh of Breguet's Marine line, inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet's history of marine chronometers and scientific instruments, has been coming for some time now. If you've been following the sometimes sweeping, sometimes subtle, almost always welcome changes to Breguet's catalog over the last few years (and especially last year during the brand's year-long 250th fête), you knew the Marine was one of the few stones left unturned.  While the Experimentale 1 (a groundbreaking achievement) launched a new design language for the Marine last year, today's refresh is more subtle. The first thing that you probably will notice is that the eponymous "Breguet" numerals now replace the Roman ones on the previous models. But wait. There's more. Previous versions of both models had either soleil finishing centered around the boxed brand name (and number) or a larger, irregular wave guilloché, depending on the execution. In both new models, the watches now feature the new, finer "Quai de l'Horloge" guilloché pattern launched to honor the brand's 250th Anniversary last year, with a circular brushed hour track. Rather than just doing the same dial treatment for each case material, regardless of the complication, the brand has a mix of dials ranging from blue (in different shades) to grey and black. In general, the case material matches the tone of the hands, but there is an exception. The cases and movements have remained largely the same, 42.3mm by 13.9mm with a 50.7m...

Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527 Fratello
Breguet Marine 5517 Sep 24, 2026

Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527

As their names already suggest, the Tradition and Classique are Breguet’s classic-looking models, perfect for dressier occasions. But what if you want a sportier, water-resistant watch from the maison that made timepieces for royalty and emperors? Breguet has you covered with the Marine collection, available in precious metals as well as titanium. Breguet marine chronometers […] Visit Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527 to read the full article.

Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Sep 24, 2026

Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary

Today, Vacheron Constantin launches a special Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to celebrate the collection’s 30th anniversary. This limited edition of 200 pieces pairs an 18K white gold case with a new, lighter azure dial. Although the underlying watch debuted in 2016, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar remains one of the thinnest full-calendar integrated-bracelet sporty watches available. […] Visit Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary to read the full article.

Formex’s field watch takes to the skies with new Formex AirField 40mm Automatic Time+Tide
Formex s field watch takes Sep 24, 2026

Formex’s field watch takes to the skies with new Formex AirField 40mm Automatic

Formex turns its field watch into a pilot’s watch with the new AirField 40mm Automatic model. With a pilot’s watch-inspired dial and hand set, the AirField features the new Sellita SW200-2 Power+ and a hardened titanium case. Available in four different colours, the Formex AirField 40mm Automatic is available for pre-order now, with deliveries starting … Continued

Six of the Most Obscure Watch and Car Tie-Ins You’ve Likely Never Heard Of Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Sep 23, 2026

Six of the Most Obscure Watch and Car Tie-Ins You’ve Likely Never Heard Of

In terms of analog intricacy and an unyielding enthusiasm for the vintage and enduring, watches and the automotive realm are a natural A-to-B: it should come as no surprise that the Venn diagram of watch nerds and automotive nerds is eerily close to a circle.  Yet, there’s more to the world of branded cross-promotion than, say, TAG Heuer and Porsche. Some of the most off-the-beaten-path collaborations are worthy of deep dives, and the six examples highlighted here (including many from Heuer!) are collectible and worthy of appreciation by those who know. Because there’s only so much that can be represented by Steve McQueen, in that white racing suit, giving the British equivalent of the middle finger. Thankfully, the world of mechanical fascination runs so much deeper than that.  IWC Mark XII x Saab “Born from Jets” was the advertising slogan of the now-defunct Saab for the last 20 or so years of its life, and while there was a distinct difference between Saab AG the defense contractor and the General Motors-owned division, it made for some really, really cool television ads. IWC, who built its reputation on pilot’s watches, lent its flagship Mark Series to a Saab tie-in in 1997: if you put down the deposit for a limited-edition 900 Mellow Yellow Cabrio, you were awarded one of these Mark XIIs, each one customized with a yellow leather strap and “Saab Automatic” on the dial instead of the usual “Mark XII Automatic.” Today, if you can find one, they go fo...

First Look - Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion, Two Limited Editions to Celebrate the Elite Unit Monochrome
Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion Sep 23, 2026

First Look - Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion, Two Limited Editions to Celebrate the Elite Unit

Founded in Geneva in 1988, Frederique Constant is now a globally respected name in watchmaking, offering classic designs at reasonable prices, with a growing portfolio of complications developed and assembled at its Plan-les-Ouates manufacture. Part of the Citizen Group since 2016, the brand was created by Peter Stas, who left his native Netherlands for Switzerland, […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel Hodinkee
Czapek & Cie CEO Sep 23, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry when he co-founded Czapek with fellow entrepreneur Harry Guhl, with help from watchmaker Sébastien Follonier, in 2015.  He's had to learn the industry on the job, and while Czapek burst on the scene by winning the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Public Prize in its debut year in 2016, the company and de Roquemaurel have faced plenty of challenges along the way. From the novel financing and shareholder model they created to fund the startup, to reckoning with a massive surge of back orders for their popular Antarctique integrated bracelet sports watch model during the boom times of the post-pandemic era, as well as serious health and medical ordeals. Reconsidering all the tests he and the company have faced, de Roquemaurel says he now believes that "adversity gets the best out of you." Today, Czapek has just opened a new boutique on the historic Quai des Bergues in Geneva on the same banks of the Rhône River where François Czapek himself had his first atelier in the 1800s. In a wide-ranging interview, the Czapek CEO traces both the path of the reborn brand and how it has found inspiration in the legacy of the watchmaker who opened what is believed to be the first watch boutique on Place de Vendôme in Paris while producing timepieces for Napoleon III and t...

Introducing: Grönefeld Brings Back Its Four Greatest Hits With The New 1941 Quadrivium Hodinkee
Grönefeld Brings Back Sep 23, 2026

Introducing: Grönefeld Brings Back Its Four Greatest Hits With The New 1941 Quadrivium

What We Know It's always a great day when we get news from Bart and Tim Grönefeld. But this time, the news came with a lot of anticipation, as I've been getting a lot of texts and messages from people around the world asking what, exactly, the brothers were teasing on Instagram. First, I couldn't tell anyone, even if I did know—that's how embargoes work—but second, I only found out this morning. However, the brothers' new Quadrivium, with a 7.5-second remontoire with exposed governor, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds, and a power-reserve indicator, certainly was worth the anticipation. The watch combines highlights from the brand's history, especially the discontinued pieces customers kept asking for. The deadbeat seconds from the original One Hertz in 2010 are here. So is the GPHG-winning Parallax Tourbillon (which had a power reserve indicator) from 2014. Finally, the Remontoire was launched in 2016 and eventually became one of the earliest Hodinkee limited editions. All of this comes together in a compact 40mm by 11.3mm case, made in either tantalum or platinum, with the brand's "1941" collection design language: a polished, domed bezel; incut flanks and lugs; and a stepped shape to the downturned lugs as well. The dial is also quintessential Grönefeld, with a frosted main surface, hand-beveled stainless steel elements, and polished, multi-faceted white gold hour markers, topped with blued hands. The movement side is also exactly what you'd ...

A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection Fratello
Nivada Grenchen re-entered Sep 23, 2026

A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection

Although Nivada Grenchen re-entered the market in 2020 after decades of absence, its roots date back to its original establishment in 1926. To celebrate the 100th anniversary, Nivada is releasing seven new dial variations for one of its most popular models, which also underwent a facelift. I was lucky enough to put my hands on […] Visit A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.

Staff Picks: The Watches We Wore This Summer Hodinkee
Sep 23, 2026

Staff Picks: The Watches We Wore This Summer

Summer is over. Okay, maybe not quite — there's still some hot weather to be wrung out over the next few weeks (although I have noticed more than a few sweaters being broken out around the Hodinkee office this week). Labor Day has come and gone, school has started, our white pants are put away for the season, and the carefree, relaxed days of summer are now largely behind us. With that in mind, I asked (read: pestered) a handful of my colleagues to find out what watches they had on their wrists this summer, and the answers didn't disappoint. DWC Terra Titanium [Mark Kauzlarich] If there's something you should know about a lot of us on the Hodinkee edit team, it's that we love a good bit. So, after I came out of anesthesia from my spinal fusion earlier this summer, I decided to buy a watch to suit the moment. Look, I'm not saying that James Stacey gatekept this from me, but when I saw the Delhi Watch Company Terra on his Instagram, I felt left out. Turns out, I'm not as chronically on "watch internet" as I should be, apparently, because everyone over in The Grey NATO-land was talking about this super cool, $47 titanium quartz-powered watch out of India, and I missed out. I missed out on all THIRTY THOUSAND of them, I might add (shows how little I'm in the loop), and people were charging an arm and a leg to get one. Image, James Stacey (Yes, he has one too) Until the bit came around, that is. I got curious after my surgery and dug through my surgical notes for the info abo...

First Look - The new Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII 100 Years Brings Stone Dials and a More Powerful Movement Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII 100 Years Sep 23, 2026

First Look - The new Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII 100 Years Brings Stone Dials and a More Powerful Movement

Relaunched in 2020 under Guillaume Laidet’s creative direction (also behind the Vulcain and Space One brands), now-100-year-old Nivada Grenchen has focused on historical models, updating vintage references without losing their original character. Alongside the Antarctic and the Chrononomaster collections, the F77, inspired by the integrated sports watches of the 1970s, leads the pack. It returned […]

First Look - The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel and Freak One Guilloché Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel Sep 23, 2026

First Look - The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel and Freak One Guilloché

With Rolf Schynder at the helm, Ulysse Nardin released an unorthodox timepiece in 2001 that smashed conventions and rewrote watchmaking in one fell swoop. With no dial, no hands and no crown, the Freak, master watchmaker Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s renegade watch, indicated time with its linear gear train featured on the dial. The Freak also […]

Channeling My Inner Explorer With The Brand-New Héron Continental Fratello
Sep 23, 2026

Channeling My Inner Explorer With The Brand-New Héron Continental

Héron has slowly been expanding its catalog. Earlier this year, the young Montreal-based brand introduced updated versions of its Marinor dive watch, which Mike reviewed. Now, Héron is introducing the completely new Continental collection. It’s a series of three vintage-inspired sports watches that work well for daily wear thanks to their modern execution. I got […] Visit Channeling My Inner Explorer With The Brand-New Héron Continental to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Presents Sep 22, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team

Last month, Girard-Perregaux announced its latest involvement in the Formula 1 scene with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team. We knew a collaborative watch would soon follow, and the moment has unfolded. Here, we get the debut duo of watches in the new Laureato Williams Edition lineup. If you’ve been reading my take on timepieces for a while, you know I’m a longtime fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. In the vast world of integrated bracelet sport watches, I’ve always found it to be one of the most refined and easily dressed up while remaining subtle and effortless enough for daily wear. With these new interpretations of the iconic design for the Atlassian Williams F1 Team, we get some of the sportiest takes on the model, proving the Laureato offers a versatile canvas that can truly embody both the “luxurious” and “sporty” sides of the luxury sport watch. As the brand’s flagship line, the Laureato has long served as the foundation for Girard-Perregaux’s collaborations and has taken many sizes, styles, and shapes over the years. However, the choice of this particular collection for the debut models in partnership with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team runs deeper. The Laureato was born in 1975, and the Atlassian Williams F1 Team was born just two years later in 1977, giving the duo roughly 50 years of shared history and evolution. Girard-Perregaux brings us two iterations for its inaugural line honoring the partnership: a chronograph alongside a classic time an...

A Deep-Diving Legacy: Squale Introduces The Galeazzi Artiglio Fratello
Squale Sep 22, 2026

A Deep-Diving Legacy: Squale Introduces The Galeazzi Artiglio

Squale and underwater-tech manufacturer Drass Galeazzi mark the centenary of Roberto Galeazzi’s 1926 patent with the Galeazzi Artiglio. This is a vintage-inspired dive watch with a 600m depth rating and a neat trick up its sleeve. Galeazzi’s patented “spherical-zone structure” helped advance deep-sea exploration. It created a way for underwater vessels and equipment to withstand […] Visit A Deep-Diving Legacy: Squale Introduces The Galeazzi Artiglio to read the full article.

Introducing:  Chopard Brings Back The Original Happy Diamonds And Happy Sport Hodinkee
Chopard Brings Back Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Chopard Brings Back The Original Happy Diamonds And Happy Sport

What We Know This year marks 50 years since Chopard first "set diamonds free." Which sounds a little cheesy, admittedly, but there is something genuinely joyful about the conceit: diamonds allowed to skitter and spin around a watch dial, never quite landing in the same place twice. Introduced in 1976, the original Happy Diamonds placed unset diamonds inside individual gold capsules, allowing them to move between two sapphire crystals rather than remaining fixed to the dial. The idea reportedly came from sunlight dancing across a waterfall spray in Germany's Black Forest. It would become one of Chopard's most recognizable signatures. To celebrate the anniversary, Chopard is returning to two pivotal moments in the collection's history: the earliest Happy Diamonds watches from 1976 and the original Happy Sport, designed in 1993 by Caroline Scheufele, Chopard's Co-President and Artistic Director. The Chopard Happy Diamonds Heritage watch in 34mm. The smaller version, measuring 24mm. The new Happy Diamonds Heritage watches are direct re-editions of those first models, with cushion-shaped cases in 18-carat ethical yellow gold and polished black onyx dials. Two sizes are available, just as there were in 1976. The larger measures 34mm by 34mm and contains 21 moving diamonds. Inside is Chopard's hand-wound caliber 10.01-C, a tiny 15.7mm-wide movement introduced in 2024. Visible through the sapphire caseback, it runs at 3Hz and offers 45 hours of power reserve. The smaller 24mm vers...

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio Sep 22, 2026

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784

Panerai‘s modern movement story began in 2005, when the company introduced the hand-wound P.2002, its first own calibre, combining a GMT function with an eight-day power reserve. In 2007, the brand expanded its calibre family, also introducing Panerai’s own interpretation of the tourbillon movement, the P.2005, with the tourbillon cage on an axis perpendicular to […]

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering Hodinkee
Panerai Honors Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering

What We Know Don't call it a comeback—they've been here for years, but if today's release is any indication, Panerai seems on the verge of "having a moment," or whatever you'd call it in a hyper-masculine, intensely Italian way. The feedback for a while, even from people who love the brand, is that the brand (which was on the forefront or even progenitor of the large watch trend that dominated the early 2000s) hadn't adapted as well or as quickly as big watch brands. Size was one sticking point; price another. Privately, I have heard multiple people say that if Panerai could fight it out closer to Tudor pricing, they'd be printing money at a new clip. Today, the brand is showing that it's listening, with three new (and newly smaller) 42mm Luminors at an attractive price. Let's go back to 1993, to the pre-Vendome days of Panerai. Brand representatives stood aboard the Italian destroyer Durand de la Penne (D560) to revive the Luminor's design language—the big case, bold numerals, and unusual crown lock—and bring it to a civilian audience. The original references, Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A, became collectible icons, and the latter was revived last year with the PAM05218, in a 44mm case with a new automatic movement. If you looked closely at that caliber—the P.980 with hours, minutes, and hacking seconds—you'd see it was small enough to fit in an even smaller case. Yes, it's similar in architecture to a few in-group IWC and B...