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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Industry News – LVMH Reports Minor Loss of Revenues in Q1 2025 Despite Uncertain Environment Monochrome
Apr 15, 2025

Industry News – LVMH Reports Minor Loss of Revenues in Q1 2025 Despite Uncertain Environment

The world’s leading luxury group, LVMH, has just announced its sales revenues for the first quarter of 2025, which ended March 31st. At the end of the year 2024, when the conglomerate was still reporting strong results, revenues showed a slight improvement, offsetting the losses of mid-2024. However, the global geopolitical and economic environment is uncertain due […]

Event: Fireside Chat with Philippe Dufour in Singapore, April 18, 2025 (CLOSED) SJX Watches
Apr 15, 2025

Event: Fireside Chat with Philippe Dufour in Singapore, April 18, 2025 (CLOSED)

With Phillips’ Geneva auction in May selling several watches to benefit the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, Philippe Dufour himself will be in Singapore during the preview exhibition for the sale. On April 18, 2025, the noted independent watchmaker will be the guest at a fireside chat alongside Thomas Perazzi, Phillips’ head of watches for Asia, moderated by myself. *Registrations are closed as venue is at max capacity. Thank you for the interest.* Mr Dufour will be speaking about his life and work, as well as the foundation’s mission and the upcoming charity auction where several watches will be sold to benefit the foundation. The highlight of the sale is the unique Philippe Dufour Simplicity with a 37 mm pink gold case with a dial inlaid with butterfly wings (pictured above). Registration and preview Seats are limited due to venue capacity and registration is required to attend the panel. Please RSVP on Phillips.com. *Registrations are closed as venue is at max capacity. Thank you for the interest.* The preview exhibition for the Phillips’ spring auction season, including lots from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York sales, takes place on April 18 and 19, 2025, 11 am-6 pm daily, at the Singapore Edition hotel.  

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 15, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel

One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...

Kallinich Claeys Brings Creative Independent Watchmaking to Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos headquarters Apr 14, 2025

Kallinich Claeys Brings Creative Independent Watchmaking to Glashütte

In the Fall of 2023, I organized a RedBar event in Prague for Marco Lang, Stefan Kudoke, and Jochen Benzinger. During the event I met two young guys who looked in their early twenties, enjoying fresh Pilsner beer. When we raised our glasses to cheer, I noticed his wrist and had a hard time believing what I saw.  The young man introduced himself as Thibault Claeys and said this is their first watch. The other young man introduced himself as Johannes Kallinich. While I looked at the watch, Thibault told me that both of them worked at A. Lange & Söhne until recently. Johannes was the head of the Lange 1 department and a certified Master Watchmaker with a deep understanding of technical construction. Thibault, on the other hand, graduated from watchmaking school in Antwerp, and joined the Lange 1815 department. His expertise lies in finishing techniques, and he plays MacGyver with all the machines and tooling.  The next encounter with Thibault and Johannes was a planned visit to their atelier in the summer of 2024. Their small workshop is located right next to Nomos headquarters, and directly opposite from the SUG case workshop in Glashütte. The workshop is framed all around by large windows, an inspiration they took from Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi.  Thibault walked me through “his side” of the workshop first where he built his own CNC milling machine. You see all the contraptions he built himself for making parts or for finishing of the parts. He says it actually all...

Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 14, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025

Today we keep our post-Watches & Wonders 2025 recaps going with our takes on the best all-new watches of the show. We know there are a lot of line and color extensions released every year but what stood out to us from all the truly new watches? Well, to nobody’s surprise, there is now a watch release that has appeared on all three of three Editors’ Picks we have published so far. Also some smaller brands had big releases we loved this year, so let’s get into them. Mark Bernardo: Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] As always when a gaggle of nerdy watch writers share opinions and ideas, there was a bit of discussion prior to this article as to what constitutes a “new” watch. Does a new case size count, or a new movement or complication in an existing model, or a model from the past that has been radically redesigned but carries the same name? Hopefully I have deftly evaded these eternal (but fascinating) debates by submitting the “newest” and most groundbreaking timepiece I encountered this year. It has to be “new” if it sets a new world record, right? In the case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], the milestone in question is debuting as the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made - just 52 grams in total, including the strap.The watch is an evolution of 2021’s Diver X Skeleton, which itself emerged from the mainstream (non-skeleton) Diver series, but takes that model’s extreme openworked structure to another level; according to the brand, the inside of the 4...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Apr 13, 2025

Time to Pack: Road Cycling Gear Guide

In the latest Time to Pack, Ed Jelley takes us along for the ride-literally. With cycling season in full swing this Spring, he shares what’s been working for him out on the road, how his kit has evolved, and why packing smart can make all the difference. Whether you’re gearing up for a casual day trip or planning something a bit more ambitious, there’s plenty of inspiration here for dialing in your setup. From bags and tools to hydration and snacks (yes, Swedish Fish), Ed’s approach is all about flexibility, function, and a little bit of fun. If you’re the kind of rider who obsesses over the perfect kit-or you’re just getting started and wondering what to bring-this episode is packed with ideas to help you hit the road feeling prepared and excited. Whether you’re a frequent cyclist or just getting into the hobby, this video offers a bit of insight into how to make the most of your cycling kit. We hope that Time to Pack will continue to be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! The post Time to Pack: Road Cycling Gear Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were standouts – Apr 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup

With Watches & Wonders 2025 having just concluded, we discuss the best watches seen at the fair, as well as developments and happenings at the year’s biggest watch fair. We cover the establishment brands – Rolex and Vacheron Constantin were standouts – and the independents. (For a written take on the fair, read my editorial.) Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 13, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold

It’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown after the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2025. As you can guess, we will create new matchups based on the watches introduced in Geneva. These provide us with plenty of picks for the upcoming weeks. In this first post-Watches and Wonders matchup, Mike and Jorg go head […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold to read the full article.

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived SJX Watches
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Omega Apr 11, 2025

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Waltham B-383 Rally Diver  Here’s a wild one to start off this week, a vintage Waltham diver with a bold rally dial. The large squarish chunky steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges. The diver’s bezel has a cool half yellow, half black acrylic insert that is in really nice shape. The dial is what really sets this diver apart though, with its intricate black, yellow and blue alternating “rally” style design. Broad steel hands and the ubiquitous 1970s day/date window complete the look. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. This one has all the vintage swag you could want in a diver! View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic  Next up is this simple yet stylish vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic. These are really versatile, large and robust enough to be sporty, but you can dress it up with a nice leather strap and it would be right at home with a suit! This 1967 model is in excellent, unpolished shape, with a large 38mm case. The classic Seiko silver dial with steel markers and hands is also excellent. Of note, the hour and minute hands are the exact same hands used on the iconic Seiko 6105 divers, although the lume color is different. Nice clean auto...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M 2220.80.00 Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Apr 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M 2220.80.00

“That makes perfect sense, since MI6 looks for maladjusted young men who’d give little thought to sacrificing others in order to protect queen and country. You know, former SAS types with easy smiles and expensive watches - Rolex?” “Omega.” I’m not James Bond. I know it may come as a surprise, but I don’t spend my time playing in high-stakes poker games (or baccarat, if you prefer the books), I don’t chase terrorists across European cities, and I don’t save the world from a colorful megalomaniac every few years. But I do have a bit of a crush on Eva Green, and I do wear an Oh-meeg-uh, so I guess I can forgive the confusion. Specifically, and for about the last half-decade, I’ve been wearing a reference 2220.80.00 Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M, the same watch worn by Daniel Craig in the infamous train car scene of Casino Royale quoted above, and, for my money, the best Seamaster to come out of Bern, maybe ever. I don’t make that claim lightly. The Seamaster is, by the standards of a ‘luxury’ watch, remarkably ubiquitous. I see Seamasters a lot - on the wrists of my bartenders, on the subway, and almost every time I move through an airport. A lot of that is thanks to one thing: Bond. But while most people know the Seamaster thanks to its starring role in three decades worth of Bond films, the name goes back far further - all the way to 1946.  Granted, those first Seamasters have very little to do with the dive watches we most associ...

Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option SJX Watches
Apr 11, 2025

Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option

Having launched the Automatique last year in a range of metals except yellow gold, Biver has now revealed a pair in the classic precious metal. The Automatique in yellow gold debuts with a matching solid yellow gold dial or a more unusual dial in glossy, woven carbon fibre composite. Initial thoughts I was already a proponent of the Automatique, mainly because of the high quality of construction inside and out. The yellow gold duo add more options to the offering, but arguably bring more than just a new colour because the material evokes a vintage feel that suits the design. Between rose and yellow gold, I would pick the latter. The carbon dial version is interesting because it brings to mind the era of the 1990s when woven carbon fibre was a thing. The novelty of the material has since been supplanted by more exotic carbon composites, but the retro feel of the carbon dial is appealing. Moreover, it brings to mind the black-and-gold livery of John Player Special Formula 1 cars, which is precisely the point of this version according to Biver chief executive James Marks. Both versions are priced identically to their equivalents in the standard and Atelier Series. That’s fair enough but the carbon should be priced a little lower since the other Atelier models have mineral stone or fired enamel dials, which are typically costlier and harder to work than carbon fibre. The original colour of gold The new Automatique retains all of the features of the earlier versions, includin...

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Apr 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025

Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Released Nine New Reverso Novelties at Watches & Wonders – These Are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Released Nine New Reverso Apr 10, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre Released Nine New Reverso Novelties at Watches & Wonders – These Are Our Favorites

This year was all about the Reverso for Jaeger-LeCoultre. At Watches & Wonders this year, the watchmaker’s watchmaker unveiled a total of nine new Reverso novelties, capturing every expression of the iconic watch. From simple to complicated, highly technical to craft oriented, and in just about every material you’d want to see, it was a stunning output, and truly impressive to see them all up close and personal.  We decided to set ourselves up with the impossible task of picking our favorites from the new crop of Reverso novelties introduced last week. Not an easy decision at all, but somehow, across these picks, the team has captured the breadth of the Reverso, or at least started to.  Be sure to let us know your favorite among the new Reversos in the comments below, especially if it was one we didn’t happen to select.  Zach Weiss  Like many watch enthusiasts, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is on my eventual hit list. An iconic dress watch, its signature reversible case design gives it not just a unique look but also function and character. And to that end, I’ve always felt that, if I were to pick one up, I’d have to go for one of the Duoface models, essentially turning one watch into two. Last year, I got the opportunity to spend some time with the newest version of the Reverso Tribute Duoface in rose gold, which left an impression on me. Though it wasn’t the most compact Reverso, the two sides, one with the iconic art deco “tribute” design and a small ...

A New, Record Breaking, Bulgari Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Bulgari Tourbillon You have Apr 10, 2025

A New, Record Breaking, Bulgari Tourbillon

You have to give it up for Piaget. When they introduced the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon last year, they made a hell of a play for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. At 2.0mm, that watch was (as most ultra-thin watches are) inconceivably thin. I have to imagine that, when Piaget introduced that watch last year, they felt pretty good about holding onto the record for at least a while but, as these things go, eventually, Bulgari has to have its say in the matter. A year later, we have Bulgari’s seemingly inevitable response: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari’s latest Ultra-Thin masterpiece represents their 10th world record for thinness in watchmaking and reunites Bulgari with a record it has held on and off since 2014 - which, by way of comparison, was a record they had previously held with watches measuring 5mm and 3.95mm thick. Hard to imagine it, but each of those now seems downright chunky by comparison. There’s a good reason why you often see watches like this held up next to credit cards: Devoid of context, it’s almost impossible for your brain to compute just how little three-dimensional space these watches take up. Bulgari has achieved this stupendously mind-blowing level of thinness by applying the design and construction techniques introduced with the 1.80mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.70mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Most notably, Bulgari has integrated the case and movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra ...

Blancpain Fills a Niche with Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in Polishe Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Apr 10, 2025

Blancpain Fills a Niche with Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in Polishe

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, first introduced in 1953, is indisputably one of the most influential and iconic timepieces of the 20th century, basically laying out the blueprint for what we now recognize today as the modern divers’ watch. Also indisputable is the fact that the Fifty Fathoms is a watch that is anything but understated in its proportions - the Automatique at the core of the modern collection, relaunched in 2008, sports a massive 45mm case, and even the vintage-inspired and allegedly more modestly sized Bathyscaphe models, which joined the collection in 2013, hover around 43mm in their male-targeted iterations. In 2024, Blancpain responded to a market-wide trend toward smaller case sizes - albeit without compromising the bold character of its flagship sport-luxury model - by releasing a new version of the Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a middle-of-the-road 42mm version. Curiously, the first two models in this size were in rose gold and titanium; the inclusion of a steel model seemed to be a no-brainer that was conspicuous by its absence in that first wave of 42mm models. Today, however, Blancpain has finally delivered the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in stainless steel - adding it to the regular collection as well as giving the model a distinctive flair. The stainless steel case of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique, which measures precisely 42.3mm in diameter and 14.3mm thick, sports a gleaming, predominantly polished finish, distinguishing...

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT SJX Watches
De Bethune Turns Apr 10, 2025

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT

The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...

Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Apr 10, 2025

Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel

Just when the watch world is beginning to settle into the quiet post-Watches and Wonders pace, Blancpain shakes things up by introducing a version of its 42mm Fifty Fathoms in steel. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending some time with the 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium. Now the brand has introduced a new […] Visit Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel to read the full article.