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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar

Frederique Constant proved that a perpetual calendar watch could be priced within reach of the general market with the release of their original Classic Perpetual Manufacture back in 2016. Nine years later, the Geneva-based brand’s redesigned and refined new Classic Perpetual looks to continue that tradition.  Housed in a steel 40mm case that sports slimmer lugs and softer angles than previous models, the new Classic promises elegance and functionality in equal measure. The salmon “sunray” dial and silver diamond-cut indexes ooze cocktail party elegance, but keep the color scheme in check in order to draw full and worthy attention to the complications: a date counter at 3 o’clock, moonphase at 6, weekday counter at 9, and month and leap year counter at 12, all of which are stepped to add dimension to the dial. A discreet sector dial minute track runs the perimeter for a touch of vintage flair, while the Frederique Constant signature sits below the moonphase window at the 6 position. None of these features will be a surprise for seasoned calendar collectors, of course, but the combination of the salmon dial, silver dauphine hands and indexes, and subtly reshaped Classic case will draw appreciation from those in the market for a dress watch that punches above its price point. The included dark brown alligator leather strap adds another point of class to the Classic, as does the onion-style crown-this is a watch to be worn while toasting a great achievement in the ...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th A... Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue

Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...

Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years with Most-Complicated-Wristwatch-Ever SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years Mar 31, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years with Most-Complicated-Wristwatch-Ever

This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development. Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.) Initial thoughts Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory. The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece. Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot b...

Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Cal 7135 Patents Mar 31, 2025

Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained

Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch Mar 31, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways.  Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch.  The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...

NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos Worn & Wound
Norqain Launches New Independence Skeleton Mar 31, 2025

NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos

After last year’s success in launching the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm, NORQAIN will be unveiling two new additions to this line-up for Watches and Wonders: purple and jade. Now, you may recall that there was already a purple Skeleton Chrono in September of 2024, but this one we’re told is slightly different – and not limited to just a 300-piece production. As the name suggests for these models, NORQAIN has continued its offering of high-end timepieces with a little peek under the hood, so to speak, with a skeletonized dial. While this may be a rugged watch that’s meant to be put to use, seeing the delicate pieces just underneath the sapphire crystal remind us of why we love this hobby. In terms of appearance and material, both new models feature Grade 5 titanium cases, weighing in at just 94 grams. For the purple version, the titanium complements the deep purple accents and rubber strap for a sporty look. As for the jade version, there is a DLC coating for a more sombre look that nicely contrasts the richness of the green rubber strap.  The Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm is equipped with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a running seconds indicator, and a fly-back function. In terms of movement, both models run on an NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1) with a 62-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Both new references in the Skeleton Chrono 42mm will be showcased during Watches & Wonders and you can expect h...

Hot Take: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing Plus Two Other Limited Editions Fratello
Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Mar 31, 2025

Hot Take: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing Plus Two Other Limited Editions

Last week, Breitling introduced its new three-hand Top Time models with the new B31 caliber. Today, the brand releases three more Top Time models housing the well-known chronograph B01 movement. Let’s take a quick look at these three 750-piece limited editions, including a Martini Racing version with its famous colorway. Breitling Top Time B01 Racing […] Visit Hot Take: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing Plus Two Other Limited Editions to read the full article.

Czapek Unveils a New Tourbillon in a Redesigned Antarctique Worn & Wound
Czapek Unveils Mar 31, 2025

Czapek Unveils a New Tourbillon in a Redesigned Antarctique

As a writer and a dabbler in watercolors, I can say that there is nothing more exciting than a blank canvas. I’m happy to say that Czapek seems to agree. According to CEO Xavier de Roquemurel, their sporty Antarctique has long been seen as a blank canvas to showcase the talents under the maison. Enter the Antarctique Tourbillon. At its core, it’s a tension between the avant-garde and the traditional, making for a watch that toes the line perfectly between sophisticated and playful. To achieve this, Czapek designed an all-new pattern called Singularité, named after the astronomical phenomenon where the laws of physics begin to break down – like that of a black hole. This is a bit of a tongue-in-cheek name for the technique used to describe the Singularité design. It may look deceptively simple – like a black hole – but in reality it’s a mixture of technique, artistry, and precision to create the pattern, which has no one starting point, unlike traditional guilloché.  The case’s design, too, belies the technical precision needed to create something so simple. The case of the Antarctique Tourbillon has been redesigned to echo the curvilinear aesthetic of the dial. To achieve this, the front and back sapphire crystals have been raised a tiny bit, giving the impression on the reverse side that there is no bezel. Thanks to bridge design that gives the whole dial an airy feel, the wearer is left with the impression that components are floating in mid air. All of...

Audemars Piguet’s first dial colour is cemented in ceramic with a trio of Royal Oak ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ models Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s first dial colour Mar 31, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s first dial colour is cemented in ceramic with a trio of Royal Oak ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ models

Audemars Piguet has finally perfected its 'Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50' colour in ceramic, which is based on the first Royal Oak dial from 1972.The post Audemars Piguet’s first dial colour is cemented in ceramic with a trio of Royal Oak ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here Fratello
Mar 31, 2025

Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here

As the Northern Hemisphere eagerly anticipates spring’s arrival, the watchmaking community’s attention turns to Geneva, where the prestigious Watches and Wonders fair will take place from April 1st to 7th, 2025. This year’s event promises to be the largest and most diverse gathering in its four-year history. A record 60 brands will be taking over […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Another Mar 30, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081

Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we’re matching up two professional titanium dive watches that come in under €5K. The first is the recently introduced Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081. This new version of the popular Marinemaster was released to celebrate 60 years of Seiko dive watches. The second is the Sinn T50, which debuted in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 to read the full article.

Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2 SJX Watches
Mar 29, 2025

Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2

Revealed just a few days ago, the RP2 is the second in-house wristwatch of Raúl Pagès, an independent watchmaker with a background in restoration. The RP2 retains the clean, tasteful styling that characterised his first watch, the RP1. But unlike the RP2, his latest creation was conceived to be mechanically simpler – but equally high quality – and more accessible in terms of price and availability. So the question is, does the RP2 live up to the high standards set by his preceding creation? Initial thoughts The answer, in short, is yes. On its face the RP2 is not a surprising watch. Predictably, it’s a time-only watch with a finely decorated movement, which is exactly what many enthusiasts are seeking at the moment. The RP2 is also one of many such three-hand watches that have been launched in the last three years or so. But the RP2 is different for a few good reasons. For one, its creator, Raúl Pagès, is both a watchmaker and restorer. His background can be discerned from many details, particularly in the movement, like the bimetallic balance and concealed screw for the crown wheel. The quality of the watch is impeccable. The high level of execution is especially evident on the movement. Though the movement is clearly styled, it incorporates many refined details in a tasteful manner. The calibre doesn’t try to do too much and it looks right. The dial is even cleaner but again incorporates notable details. That said, it is a little too stark for me, and I would...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: MAEN x Nico Leonord, A.I. Travel Planning, and A Commemorative Speedmaster Worn & Wound
Maen Mar 29, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: MAEN x Nico Leonord, A.I. Travel Planning, and A Commemorative Speedmaster

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. MAEN x Nico Leanord Jump Hour This week, MAEN debuted their latest release, a collaboration with YouTuber Nico Leonard. The MAEN Jump Hour x Nico Leonard features a classic mechanical jump hour complication, with the current hour displayed via an aperture near the top of the dial, and the minutes below (you’ll also find Leonard’s “Pride and Pinion” logo just under the minute aperture). The tonneau shaped case measures 34mm across, 45mm lug to lug, and 9.7mm tall, and is mounted to a custom FKM rubber strap. Three dial colors will be available: black, green, and red. Since all pieces are being made to order, an order window will run from April 7th to the 13th, with delivery planned for late November 2025. More information about the MAEN Jump Hour x Nico Leonard can be found here.   One Battle After Another : Official Trailer Last week we brought you the teaser for the teaser – now the full trailer is here and there’s been a great deal of speculation as to what this movie will be about as PTA isn’t exactly known for giving the general public a ton of info beforehand.  With the release of the official trailer, it’s seemingly confirmed that the final titl...

My First Gold Watch: An IWC Cal. 8531 Fratello
IWC Cal 8531 Once again Mar 29, 2025

My First Gold Watch: An IWC Cal. 8531

Once again, we find ourselves with an article by yours truly on an IWC. Oh well, I’ve bought another vintage watch from International Watch Company Schaffhausen. It’s starting to become a bit of a running joke. This time, though, I haven’t gone for steel. Instead, I bought my very first gold watch. I seem to […] Visit My First Gold Watch: An IWC Cal. 8531 to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Selection of Affordable Seikos, Plus a Killer Bulova Worn & Wound
Bulova eBay Finds Mar 28, 2025

eBay Finds: A Selection of Affordable Seikos, Plus a Killer Bulova

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko UFO 6138-0011 Welcome to the “mostly Seiko eBay Finds”. Like most things in this world, good watch auctions can come in groups, such as this week! I wasn’t particularly looking for Seikos, but I found several for your bidding pleasure. First up is this vintage 1971 Seiko “UFO” 6138-0011 chronograph. This is a unique Seiko chronograph, and one that is easy to recognize with its big round case (hence the UFO moniker). The black dial is nice and clean and looks great with the up/down big eye look with the larger 6 o’clock subdial. The pushers on this model are also unique, with piston-like engraved grooves. This watch would’ve originally come on a Seiko bracelet, but the rally style strap it’s on works well. Overall the watch is in good shape, with an unpolished case and clean dial, hands and bezel. Runs well per the seller but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko 5 Sports 7019-7050  The next Seiko up is this nice vintage 1972 Seiko 5 Sports 7019-7050. This is a great looking sport watch, with a large, 39mm wide round-ish steel case that has a wide beveled bezel. It almost looks like a diver, but it has no diver’s bezel, external or internal. The di...

Hands-on – Fam Al Hut Sets a New Benchmark for Chinese Independent Watchmaking with its Bi-Axis Tourbillon Monochrome
Mar 28, 2025

Hands-on – Fam Al Hut Sets a New Benchmark for Chinese Independent Watchmaking with its Bi-Axis Tourbillon

This article is a guest post by one of our readers and contributors to the Collector’s Series, a gentleman who prefers to remain anonymous but who’s very active on Instagram @winewhiskywatches. We’ve long suspected that Chinese cost structures might provide compelling competitive advantages for high-end watchmaking, assuming that a Chinese watchmaking brand could effectively establish […]