Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Is Bringing Back The Monaco 'Dark Lord'
This special edition for the Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix is modern interpretation of a '70s classic.
Results for Grand Feu Enamel
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Hodinkee
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin has had a blast at Watches & Wonder 2022, releasing a whole gamut of watches that reminds us why the luxury Swiss watchmaking Maison is known as the “grand dame of watchmaking”. From complicated and artistically stunning Les Cabinotiers pieces, to the faithful reissue of the legendary Ref. 222 sports watch that’s beenRead More
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”
Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain
A modern-day specialty of Seiko, artisanal crafts such as enamel and porcelain are found in several of the brand’s collections across the price spectrum, although they are perhaps most associated with Seiko’s line of affordable, mechanical dress watches, the Presage. While past Presage offerings with artisanal dials were typically paired with simple complications such as a power reserve indicator or date, the latest arrival keeps the dial clean. The Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain is made up of a pair of time-only wristwatches, the SPB239 with a white dial and the SPB319 with a light blue dial. The SPB239 is accompanied with a metal bracelet Initial thoughts The latest Presage demonstrates a progressive evolution in the watchmaker’s aesthetics. Traditionally its automatic three-handers have always had a date, but the date window usually looked out of place. That was especially so for the artisanal dials, where date distracts from the beautiful, hand-made dials. In short, the fact the new Presage moves away from the date is a good thing. Also notable is the gently sunken dial. It’s executed almost seamlessly with a clean, gentle transition between the two levels. This contrasts with past Presage models that had complications, resulting in sunken indicators. In fact, the porcelain dial brings to mind another time-only watch with an enamel dial, the Breguet Classique 7147, which has an elegantly sunken seconds. The only thing I would change about ...
Hodinkee
Dispatches: The TAG Heuer Monaco Comes Home For Its 50th Birthday
Returning to the spiritual home of the Monaco and the city's famous Grand Prix weekend.
Video
A Lot of Squares and a Few Surprises – 5 of the Best Bell & Ross Watches
Hodinkee
Interview: Seiko President Akio Naito Says Quantity Shouldn't Be The Enemy Of Quality
The man at the helm wants Grand Seiko to stay the course.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic Evolves A Classic Design
And it still rings in under a grand. Don't let your yearnings get ahead of your earnings.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater
A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...
Revolution
Seiko Introduces Fresh New Additions to Prospex and Presage
Seiko kicks off 2022 with new additions to the Prospex and Presage collections with new watches that add to the brand’s grand heritage
SJX Watches
Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch
Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...
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Casio WV-300 - module 3034 - review & tutorial on how to setup and use ALL functions
Quill & Pad
Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Edition: Creating An Uproar (In Heaven)
Fantasy, high artistry, and solid watchmaking whimsically coalesce in Oris’s limited edition Sun Wukong Artist Edition, the just-introduced timepiece inspired by the Chinese animated film 'The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven.' And in a novel twist for this usually affordably priced brand, the dial presents hand-rendered cloisonné enamel, an art form used by Oris for the first time.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Leaping Tiger, Hidden Caseback
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Enamel "Tiger."
Quill & Pad
The 2022 Australian Open Begins . . . Without World Number One (And Hublot Ambassador) Novak Djokovic
Elizabeth Doerr's entire world seems to have been following the Australian Open 2022 tennis saga over the last couple of weeks – even people who generally do not follow tennis. So as the first Grand Slam of the tennis calendar 2022 gets underway, she briefly examines Novak Djokovic and his pretty scandalous behavior as he relates to our watch world.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Icy Blue Morning Dew On Bamboo
The latest Grand Seiko U.S. editions express seasonality with haiku-like precision.
Revolution
Introducing the James Lamb Origin Series
British watchmaker James Lamb launches his debut Origin series, featuring hand-made silver cases and striking champlevé enamel dials.
Video
The best chronograph you've never heard of - LeCoultre! :: LUG2LUG
SJX Watches
Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG
A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...
Time+Tide
My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021
Imagine walking into a building and coming face to face with some of the biggest brands and independent watchmakers in horology. Well, that’s exactly what I was lucky enough to do last weekend while attending WatchTime New York. It’s an annual event located within the vast Grand Ballroom of New York City’s Gotham Hall. It … ContinuedThe post My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent
In July, Bremont announced the grand opening of The Wing, a 35,000 square foot, state-of-the-art watchmaking facility on the edge of Henley-on-Thames. This was a statement of intent for the British brand as part of a move towards increased in-house production of parts without the reliance on a non-domestic supply chain. But delving behind The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Explainer: the new Louis Moinet Space Revolution
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R
A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...
Video
A Vintage Longines You've Never Seen Before | LUG2LUG
Quill & Pad
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time
Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Visiting Tutima Glashütte In Germany – Reprise
Tutima has one leg in the realm of fine watchmaking and the other firmly placed in its lower to mid-priced Grand Flieger collection, composed of German pilot-style watches. Bhanu Chopra visited the Tutima manufacture in Glashütte, Germany for a closer look at how this duality works and what role it plays in the company's history.
Hodinkee
John Mayer On Watches: My Thoughts On The Bell & Ross BR126 Chronograph, By John Mayer
Here, John tells us about a watch he encountered for the first time while sitting on the jury of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve, and while it didn't take home an award, it was the one piece that really stuck with him.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Realises a Connoisseur’s Exquisite Vision
Eight years in the making, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer is a masterpiece in the truest sense of the word. Reflecting the owner’s taste that is inclined towards the subtle, elegant, and artisanal, the watch is seemingly simple on the front, yet intricately decorated on its circumference and immensely complicated within. But the true art of the watch sits on the hinged case back, which bears a magnificent miniature enamel painting by Anita Porchet that reproduces Vermeer’s ethereal Girl with a Pearl Earring. The idea for this uber pocket watch was first mooted by the owner in 2012, before being formally commissioned in 2013 during the Watches & Wonders fair in Hong Kong. Asked about his motivation in commissioning the watch – and waiting nearly a decade – the owner says, “I wanted to have a watch made, cost-and-time-no-object, that incorporated the ultimate in art – miniature enamel by the greatest practicing enameller – with the most difficult and sublime complication, the true Westminster sonnerie – and that alone – not counting the tourbillon escapement, which to me isn’t a complication.” “No such watch existed prior in the history of watchmaking,” he adds, “The watch came out more magnificent and monumental than I had imagined.” And that pretty much sums up the Vermeer pocket watch, which is unquestionably one of the greatest creations ever to emerge from Les Cabinotiers, a wo...
Quill & Pad
Hermès Takes Flight With The Arceau Toucan De Paradis
The Hermès Arceau has been used as the canvas for many remarkable artistic dial techniques, including wood marquetry, glass art, leather, and miniature painting. The Arceau Toucan de Paradis Nancy Olson highlights here uses vibrant silk thread and enamel to tell its colorful and exotic story.
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