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Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities

One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way.  At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques.  The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02.  According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...

Introducing – Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Colours to its PR516 38mm Powermatic 80 Monochrome
Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Jan 26, 2026

Introducing – Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Colours to its PR516 38mm Powermatic 80

Far from being a recently-introduced collection, Tissot’s PR516 represents the brand’s racing-oriented option. First seen in 1956 with the PR letters originally denoting Particulièrement Robustes, the collection underwent a remarkable transformation in 1965 to become what we know today. As time progressed, the PR516 underwent various iterations, and came back in great shape in 2024 […]

Fears Unveils their Limited Edition Release for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Fears Jan 23, 2026

Fears Unveils their Limited Edition Release for British Watchmakers’ Day

For the third year in a row, Fears will introduce a limited edition watch to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day, which this year occurs on March 7. It continues a theme established in 2024 of using 925 Sterling Silver for the case material, a flourish that feels special and, somehow, quintessentially British. This year’s limited edition piece, the Brunswick 40 1846 Edition, debuts a new case design as well as a special lacquer dial made just for this year’s LE. It’s also an anniversary piece, as this year marks the 180th anniversary of brand founder Edwin Fear opening his first watchmaking workshop in Bristol in 1846.  This Brunswick 40 case is polished on all sides, taking full advantage of the natural lustre of 925 sterling silver. It’s also engraved with the initials of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the brand’s managing director, which is a nod to a tradition started with the first silver pocket watch made by Edwin Fear. Additionally, like previous British Watchmakers’ Day editions in silver, the crown is set with a single diamond to note that the case is constructed from a precious metal.  Diving into the specs, it’s worth noting that the case of this Brunswick 40 is very slightly thinner than the standard issue version. Per the spec sheet, this LE measures in at 11.1mm tall, while the typical Brunswick 40 is 11.9mm in height. That difference, you won’t be surprised to learn, likely comes down to the use of a manually wound movement in this...

Grand Seiko Brings Shibuya to Singapore SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Brings Shibuya Jan 22, 2026

Grand Seiko Brings Shibuya to Singapore

Grand Seiko’s flagship boutique in Singapore is host to Tokyo Time, an event designed to bring the vibrancy of Tokyo into the heart of Singapore. Thematically, the event focuses on the people of the world’s largest city experiencing the flow of time. As explained by Ida Idris-Low, Managing Director of Grand Seiko APAC, “Tokyo is defined by a beautiful intricacy – eight distinct districts moving in tandem, each with its own culture and cadence”. Ref. SLGH0055 White Birch in Kagurazaka. Image – Seiko Watch Corp / Gregory Harris In order to capture this, the brand enlisted New Zealand-based photographer Gregory Harris to shoot each watch in situ. The pop-up seeks to connect eight Grand Seiko watches to eight parts of Tokyo. For example, Mr Harris shot the Tentagraph ref. SLGC001 in Toyosu, a man-made island home to the world’s largest wholesale fish market. The Icefall ref. SBGH347 was paired with Roppongi, known for its museums by day and clubs by night. Ginza’s champion is the Evolution 9 U.F.A. Ice Forest ref. SLGB003 – Grand Seiko’s most significant launch of last year. Ref. SBGW301 in Daikanyama. Image – Seiko Watch Corp / Gregory Harris Hosted by Grand Seiko, Tokyo Time takes place from January 16-29 at the brand’s Marina Bay Sands boutique. The exhibition is free and open to the public without registration. For more information visit the dedicated page on Grand-Seiko.com.  

Zenith Updates References Across the Defy Skyline Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Updates References Across Jan 21, 2026

Zenith Updates References Across the Defy Skyline Collection

Earlier this week we brought you news of the latest in Zenith’s ongoing Revival series, but the big news for the brand coming out of LVMH Watch Week is a big expansion of the contemporary Defy collection at all levels. As a certified Defy-head, this move has my full support. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: the Defy has long been my favorite sports watch line, full stop. I’m a huge fan of the way the modern Defy combines a funky, avant-garde design sensibility with real sports watch chops (these watches are truly built like tanks, and have been since the 1960s). The latest Defys to enter the collection span the breadth of Zenith’s range as a watchmaker, from the simple and straightforward to the highly exotic.  We’ll start with the simple. The Defy Skyline 36 has a pair of new variants, with silver dials joining previously issued versions in blue, ice blue, green, and pink. You can have your silver dialed Defy Skyline 36 with or without a diamond set bezel. As with earlier versions of the Defy Skyline in this size, the option for a diamond bezel reveals that Zenith hopes to market these watches to the women’s market, but 36mm is actually a great size for an integrated bracelet sports watch for just about anyone. Watches in this style tend to wear a little bigger than their dimensions would suggest, and there’s something inherently appealing and comfortable about a watch like this that’s a little undersized, anyway. Like other Defy Skylines, thi...

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Jan 20, 2026

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO

MB&F; has updated its EVO line with an aquamarine version of Stephen McDonnell’s ingenious double chronograph, freshly upgraded with the flyback functionality first seen in the classic Legacy Machine Sequential. The Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback EVO is a tough titanium timer suited to the rigours of daily wear thanks to its shock-protected and water resistant case and supple rubber strap. Initial thoughts MB&F; has enjoyed enormous success over the last few years, and while the rising tide of interest in independent watchmaking has lifted most major brands, it helps that MB&F;’s products are excellent and original. While the brand rarely dabbles in traditional complicated watchmaking, its first two forays – the LM Perpetual and Sequential, both designed by Stephen McDonnell – are standouts in their categories. The Sequential in particular is among the most interesting and creative chronographs on the market. This latest iteration applies the movement’s latest upgrades, principally the flyback function, to a sporty, titanium, Legacy Machine EVO case, which comes with enhanced shock and water resistance. Despite these tangible upgrades, the EVO Sequential is no larger than its dressier precious metal Legacy Machine counterparts. That’s a good thing, since the watch has a commanding, almost overwhelming presence on the wrist as it is. One of the benefits of the EVO case, compared to that of the classic LM, is the presence of a FlexRing shock absorber that provide...

Bulgari Goes Big with a Pair of Opulent LVMH Watch Week Releases Worn & Wound
Bulgari Goes Big Jan 19, 2026

Bulgari Goes Big with a Pair of Opulent LVMH Watch Week Releases

There are two things I really like about Bulgari. The first being that I’m not entirely sure how to spell their brand’s name. Bulgari? Bvlgari? Both? A secret third option? At any rate, I find it a bit chic to have a bit of runic ambiguity in a modern-day brand. The second thing I enjoy is their commitment to glamour. In today’s fashion and jewelry market, there is an inundation of simplistic, minimalistic styles. Personally speaking, I’m quite fond of dressing like I live in the Nordics, but a bit of eye candy every now and then never hurt anyone. That is to say, I’m quite pleased to share the release of two new watches, which will be presented in Milan during LVMH Watch Week, beginning today. Let me introduce you to: Maglia Milanese Monete and Tubogas Manchette. First up, the Maglia Milanese Monete revisits Bulgari’s Monete concept from the mid-1960s, centered around an authentic Roman coin from the reign of Emperor Caracalla. It is paired with a rose gold Milanese mesh bracelet, marking the brand’s first use of the technique and giving the watch a more fluid look on the wrist, nodding more to Bulgari’s jewelry-making history. The dial itself is concealed beneath the coin, while the watch is powered by Bulgari’s Piccolissimo BVP100. The manually wound movement measures just 13.5mm in diameter and 2.5mm thick, and offers a 30-hour power reserve, which can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. Next, the Tubogas Manchette takes its cues from a 1970s des...

Introducing – The New, Ultra-Accessible Citizen Automatic NJ0210 Dress and NJ022 Diver-Style Series Monochrome
Citizen Automatic NJ0210 Dress Jan 16, 2026

Introducing – The New, Ultra-Accessible Citizen Automatic NJ0210 Dress and NJ022 Diver-Style Series

When it comes to finding some of the most accessible automatic watches on the market, at least coming from established and reputable brands, it is hard to beat what Citizen has on offer. Whatever the style you’re looking for, the brand has something for you. Looking for a chic, sporty watch with a 1980s vibe? […]

VPC Introduces the Type 39VM, an Uncommonly Thin Dive Watch Worn & Wound
VPC Introduces Jan 16, 2026

VPC Introduces the Type 39VM, an Uncommonly Thin Dive Watch

Regular readers might remember our coverage of the debut watch from VPC almost two years ago. This was a special project as it comes from Thomas van Straaten, whose byline many of you may have seen over at his main gig, as a writer at Fratello. The Type 37HW, the debut release from VPC, was conceived as something as the ultimate enthusiast’s watch, with special attention paid to the small details that serious watch lovers are particularly attuned to. In practice, that means you end up with a watch that is very subtle, with lots of things that are special about it but perhaps don’t advertise themselves in big bold colors. VPC, after all, is an acronym for a Latin phrase that translates to “beauty through restraint,” and if that isn’t a mission statement of enthusiast focused watch culture, I don’t know what is.  For the second VPC release, the brand is back with a watch that builds on the design language of the Type 37HW but shifts it specifically into the realm of the dive watch. The Type 39VM is, according to the brand, the thinnest 200 meter water resistant automatic dive watch on the market, which is a bold claim but seems to be backed up by a cursory review of the data. The case height is listed at 9.34mm, which is quite thin indeed for a watch like this. In keeping with VPC’s design principles, van Stratten set out to create a watch that was purely functional but also didn’t sacrifice ergonomics or aesthetics. Through an exploration of figuring out wh...

Teddy Baldassarre and RGM Collaborate on the New 501 Worn & Wound
Hamilton master watchmaker RGM has Jan 15, 2026

Teddy Baldassarre and RGM Collaborate on the New 501

Many a modern watch collaboration is born from a combination of content creation and independent watchmaking; larger companies are often not as open to letting YouTubers or other creators see their inner workings, leaving microbrands and independents (who need the press) as the ideal subjects of mini documentaries and deep dives. Because of this, many creators forge relationships with the folks who run those smaller companies, which paves the way for collaboration efforts that go beyond YouTube or podcasts. Teddy Baldassarre is one of the most recognizable talking heads on horological YouTube, and has taken his passion into the world of retail as well, heading his own website and business and rocketing his name into upper reaches of watch enthusiasm. So, it makes sense that Baldassarre has sought to link his name with actual timepieces as well, and the new RGM Watch Co. 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition hits the market as his second collaboration with an established watchmaker.  Forged through a years-long friendship with RGM namesake Roland G. Murphy, the 5011 Teddy Baldassarre Edition takes the already eye-catching 501 model, and adds a touch of Baldassarre’s personality to the mix. First, though, it may be helpful to know a little bit about RGM as a brand: founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1992 by Murphy, an ex-Hamilton master watchmaker, RGM has long produced bespoke, custom-made watches with in-house movements. The company emphasizes domestic production of all part...

Stellar Sequel: Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue SJX Watches
Jan 15, 2026

Stellar Sequel: Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue

British designer Oliver Gallaugher (O.G) has unveiled the Deep Space Blue, a compact follow-up to the debut Deep Space launched two years ago. The refined sizing is thanks to a new movement that’s both smaller and better-equipped than the out-going Unitas 6498-based platform. The 35-piece limited edition features a blued-hued dial with the same stellar theme of the original. To top it off, each dial features a unique pattern of engraved stars, making each individually numbered watch distinct from the next. Initial thoughts Oliver Gallaugher’s original Deep Space, launched in 2023, delivered an interesting and well-executed dial in a watch that wasn’t unnecessarily expensive. I appreciate that O.G has not moved aggressively upmarket with the sequel, as seems to be the trend for independents. Instead, the Deep Space Blue is slightly smaller and slightly nicer, while being only slightly more expensive, resulting in an improved value proposition. The revised dial is largely identical to that of the first generation Deep Space, aside from its blue colour and smaller size. The intersteller theme is conveyed clearly by the design, and no two will be alike; each dial will have unique and recognisable star pattern. The design looks as good in blue as in its original grey, which makes one wonder what it might look like in black or even burgundy. The brand did redesign the hands for the new edition, which were previously flat, matte, and bimetallic. The hands are now polished a...

The 38 Best Dress Watches for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 14, 2026

The 38 Best Dress Watches for 2026

Most watch aficionados consider a go-to dress watch to be a necessary addition to any collection, whether it’s a piece designated for wear only on special occasions or one worn daily to the office. Along with sports watches, dress watches represent one of the most sought-after styles, so we’ve curated a list of the best dress watches that offer style, value, and quality at every price range. We sought out as much variety and diversity as possible with options ranging from a Timex that costs a few hundred dollars, one of the best Seiko values out there, a solid gold Rolex Day-Date, and independent options from the likes of Moser and F.P. Journe. So, here are our standout dress watches for 2026 organized from least to most expensive (and with some handy chapters organized for you).  [toc-section heading="Under $2,000"]  Timex Marlin For decades, Timex focused on affordable, mass-produced quartz watches, but recently the company has tapped into the mechanical market with the Marlin Collection. There is a 40mm automatic movement option with a wider array of dial options including eye-catching “Cali Dials”. Timex is light on the mechanical movement specs other than to note they are provided by a Chinese supplier, which isn’t surprising given the $319 price tag, making it one of the more affordable mechanical options available.  Case: 34mm, Thickness 10mm, Lug-To-Lug: 41mm, Lug Width: 18mm Crystal: Acrylic Movement: Hand Winding or Automatic Mechanical, Water-Resist...

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Turns 50 This Year - What Can We Expect? Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus Turns 50 Jan 14, 2026

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Turns 50 This Year - What Can We Expect?

How can a brand honor a watch celebrating its 50th anniversary? The easiest thing to do is to launch a homage edition of that classic. It so happens that 2026 marks the fifth decade of the illustrious Nautilus. But while every other brand could present a special 50th-anniversary model of its celebrated icon and then […] Visit The Patek Philippe Nautilus Turns 50 This Year - What Can We Expect? to read the full article.

Editorial: Tudor at 100 Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jan 13, 2026

Editorial: Tudor at 100

Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...

Fratello On Air: What We’re Shopping For, Or Not, In 2026 Fratello
Jan 13, 2026

Fratello On Air: What We’re Shopping For, Or Not, In 2026

Happy New Year from Fratello On Air! We’re back with a new episode, and we’re going shopping. Well, maybe. One of us has his eyes on several pieces, while the other is taking a wait-and-see approach. Enjoy our 2026 kickoff! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings […] Visit Fratello On Air: What We’re Shopping For, Or Not, In 2026 to read the full article.

India Watch Weekend 2026 Happening in Mumbai SJX Watches
Grand Seiko but also independents like Jan 13, 2026

India Watch Weekend 2026 Happening in Mumbai

India Watch Weekend returns for the second time this year, underlining the growth of the luxury watch market in the country. While Indian clients have long been patrons of luxury watchmakers, many historically shopped outside the country in places like Dubai and London. Now clients are moving towards domestic consumption, explaining rising sales in-country and events like India Watch Weekend. India Watch Weekend is happening in Mumbai, the nation’s commercial capital. Amongst the brands taking part are big brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Grand Seiko, but also independents like Ming and Dunselman Watchmaking. Also present for the first time is the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), a trade body dedicated to horological education. The event will take place over the weekend of January 17 and 18 at the Four Seasons. It’s open to the public but tickets are required. For more, visit Indiawatchweekend.com, while tickets can be purchased online.  

Hands On: Breguet Equation of Time Pocket Watch No. 2492 SJX Watches
Breguet Equation Jan 12, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Equation of Time Pocket Watch No. 2492

A rare Breguet pocket watch with retrograde perpetual calendar and equation of time illustrates the evolution of the house from its founder’s era to the early 20th century, blending historical motifs with modern concessions. Made in 1932, Breguet No. 2492 is one of just four known examples from a series of equation of time movements produced over nearly five decades by the legendary workshops of Victorin Piguet. In short, it’s a watch with one foot in the 19th century and one in the early 20th. The transitional nature of the watch evidently resonated with collectors, as the watch recently sold for CHF241,300 at Phillips’ Geneva auction in November, some 20% above its high estimate. Context It might be surprising, but Abraham-Louis Breguet’s unexpected death in 1823 had no immediate effect on the firm’s output. The firm produced well over a hundred watches each year, which required a staff of skilled workers, as well as A.-L. Breguet’s family, who understood what a Breguet watch was, and could build one without being managed by the man himself. However, with the old guard’s retirement, and general decline of Parisian watchmaking, things slowly changed. After the Breguet family sold the firm in the late 19th century, turning instead to the more lucrative business of aviation, the firm’s output strayed from A.-L. Breguet’s vision, abandoning Breguet’s signature design language for a medley of styles catering to specific markets. During this time, the brand...

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors” Jan 6, 2026

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors”

Vacheron Constantin kept its team busy during its 270th anniversary year. Having put a tremendous amount of effort into the most complicated wristwatch ever made and a few other genuine novelties, many of the brand’s other releases, including several one-off Métiers d’art creations, were new versions of existing models. The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin Homage to Epic Warriors is an example of the latter, introducing four one-of-a-kind grand feu enamel references to its otherwise simple (and thin) minute repeater platform. Heroic subject matter The ‘warriors’ set celebrates four famous warriors from across time. The series begins with the Homage to Alexander the Great, a pupil of Aristotle who conquered much of the eastern Mediterranean region (and beyond) in the fourth century BCE. From there, the inspiration gradually moves east, making its first stop in what is now Saudi Arabia, where a warrior poet named Antarah ibn Shaddad, now often known simply as Antar, made his mark about 1,500 years ago. The Antar reference was not available to photograph. No set of warrior-themed watches would be complete without an homage to the most legendary conquerer of all time, Ghengis Khan. That name is actually a title he adopted in 1206, and translates as ‘universal ruler’. The series concludes by looking east, to the land of the rising sun. Sasaki Moritsuna was technically a contemporary of Ghengis Khan, though he died when the future Mongolian ruler was just ...

Kurono Tokyo Introduces Meteorite to the Collection with the New Inseki Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Introduces Meteorite Jan 5, 2026

Kurono Tokyo Introduces Meteorite to the Collection with the New Inseki

Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka’s approachable watch brand, has introduced their first new release of 2026 on the very first workday of the year. Nothing like getting right back into the swing of things. The new piece, part of the brand’s “Special Projects” series, introduces meteorite to the collection for the first time. The Inseki features many of the Kurono hallmarks that have made the brand a favorite among enthusiasts over these last several years, while riding a trend in watchmaking in a rather elegant way that still feels appropriate for the brand.  The centerpiece of the watch is the gray meteorite dial, taken from the Muonionalusta meteorite which fell in what is now Sweden about one million years ago. The small slab of meteorite, with the familiar striations that make the material so interesting, is surrounded by a white lacquered outer ring where you’ll find Asaoka’s custom “Calligra” typeface numerals, which have been painted in high relief. It’s a really spare execution, accented by hand bent, high polish steel hands, a design detail that has become a Kurono signature.  Kurono notes that, as with all meteorite dials, no two are exactly the same. Asaoka, in the press materials for the Inseki, further explains that sometimes the variance in this material results in a piece of meteorite that is not particularly visually interesting. For this release, Asaoka has personally selected each piece of meteorite for inclusion in the Inseki’s run, and t...

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, Waltham, and More! Worn & Wound
Bulova Waltham Jan 2, 2026

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, Waltham, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega DeVille  Starting off this week with a beautiful vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. The DeVille is of course Omega’s dressy version of their iconic Seamaster line. This example has a 34mm wide yellow gold capped case in nice shape, looking unpolished with crisp edges on the super thin lugs. The caseback Hippocampus medallion is nice and clear. The gold dial has a delightful linen texture, with stick markers and stick hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original crown has nice deep grooves, and is signed with the Omega symbol as it should. The case is a front-loading type and there are no movement pictures, but the watch runs per the seller.  View auction here Vintage Bulova with Box and Papers Here is a nice little vintage Bulova, complete with original box and papers. The seller doesn’t state the size, but I’m guessing the steel case is probably 33-34mm wide. The case is sharp, with nice fancy lugs and a relatively broad bezel. The silvery dial has a military style look, with painted lume Arabic numerals and lume filled sword hands. The crown is signed with the Bulova logo. The watch comes on a cool looking steel stretch bracelet that may or not be original...

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin also surprised Dec 31, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises

Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of 2025, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex’s landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet’s experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer’s industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch. Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 – happy new year! Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Value Propositions SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Albishorn Dec 29, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Value Propositions

Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000. It was a mixed year for affordable watches, but the highlights include Tudor, which continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, and several micro-brands that made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. Key releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium demonstrated there’s still room for creativity and innovation at accessible price points, even as some established players moved upmarket. The Grand Seiko UFA, which is priced just on the other side of the five-figure mark, is also compelling and may be worth a splurge. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575 Dec 29, 2025

Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575

The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 is one of the most unconventional perpetual calendars on the market, combining the brand’s military-inspired emphasis on legibility and robustness with a high-spec, crown-operated perpetual calendar movement designed for daily wear. Housed in a hard-wearing 44 mm Platinumtech case and powered by the P.4100 calibre, the PAM01575 challenges expectations for what a Panerai can be, applying the brand’s utilitarian DNA to one of watchmaking’s most respected complications. A user-friendly perpetual calendar Panerai is a brand rooted in its identity as a supplier of watches and dive instruments to the Italian navy. The brand’s utilitarian aesthetic, with bold dial markings and a distinctive crown guard, earned it a cult following in the early 2000s, and while some of the enthusiasm of that era has waned, the designs remain as recognisable as ever. Military watches are usually designed to be legible and robust, user-friendly traits that make them appealing to civilians. User-friendliness is something of a complication in its own right, and in some ways is one of the final frontiers of movement design. This includes both legibility, and the priority of information on the dial, and functionality, ensuring that the movement is easy to operate and resilient against mishandling. These issues are especially present when it comes to perpetual calendars, which must present a lot of information; George Daniels famousl...