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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Amida Digitrend Worn & Wound
Jun 11, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Amida Digitrend

Here’s the thing about wearing the Amida Digitrend: you can’t take a traditional wrist shot with it. It’s not an insignificant point in 2024, when the watch industry effectively lives on Instagram, and the currency through which influence is thrust upon brands, collectors, and all of the other personalities who have risen to prominence in recent years is the wrist shot. We expect them when our friends pick up a new piece for their collection, and it’s the first thing we ask for when a new watch is announced with a series of renders depicting the watch in some altered state. So can a watch find success with the enthusiast crowd if it’s virtually impossible to take a traditional wrist shot? Amida deserves a lot of credit, I think, for rolling the dice and finding out in real time. Their new watch, the Digitrend, is one of the most interesting and quietly daring new watches to hit the market in the last few years. It takes a design that’s fifty years old and revives it so successfully that it forces you to wonder what’s happened to the industry in the intervening decades. How did we go from the strange and clever problem solving of the Digitrend to a nearly endless stream of Black Dialed Divers based on the same rudimentary outline?  The answer to that question is far outside the scope of this review, but it’s worth reporting that we may indeed be nearing an end to the watch market being saturated with straightforward vintage inspired sports watches. This is ...

RGM Unveils the Model 25 “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” SJX Watches
RGM Jun 11, 2024

RGM Unveils the Model 25 “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)”

RGM Watch Co. recently bestowed an artisanal touch on its time-only Model 25 with the “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” with a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a miniature painting that reproduces a drawing from John James Audubon’s famous book of the same name. Notably, the Birds of America is also equipped with an ETA calibre upgraded by RGM to have a power reserve that’s 30% longer. Initial thoughts RGM was historically a guilloche specialist – notably the brand does traditional engine turning in house – so the Birds of America is a logical diversification that continues the brand’s speciality. Though the artisan responsible for the miniature painting is unnamed, the dial is impressively rendered with a skilful depiction of the bird. The details of the ibis are practically as vivid as in Audubon’s illustration. Interestingly, the Birds of America is not merely a stylistic exercise. A significant feature is the upgraded ETA 2892 inside that has a 53-56 hour power reserve,  a significant enhancement over the standard 44 hours, which was achieved with in-house upgrades according to RGM.  This release is priced at U$17,900, and comparable commissions depicting others birds from Audubon’s book will cost similar. It’s more affordable than comparable watches from established Swiss brands, making it a relatively good value proposition. After Audubon The latest release is based on a plate depicting the glossy ibis in The Birds of America, the landmark work by...

Introducing – The new Formex Reef 39.5mm Bahama Blue Automatic COSC Monochrome
Formex Reef 39.5mm Bahama Blue Jun 11, 2024

Introducing – The new Formex Reef 39.5mm Bahama Blue Automatic COSC

The “Baby Reef” series of Formex 39.5mm dive watches, comprised of four watches distinguished by dial colour, was presented at the end of 2023. Now, in time for summer, it gets a new and very fresh-looking reference. It’s everything the brand enthusiasts appreciate about the collection, only brighter. Here’s the Reef 39.5mm Bahama Blue 300m […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More Fratello
Audemars Piguet Jun 7, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we will follow up on last week’s list of full-lume-dial watches with something new. First, thank you to all of you who added some great suggestions in the comments under last week’s list. There were quite a few great ones that could have easily been featured among ours. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More to read the full article.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone Jun 7, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone

Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...

#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 Fratello
Breitling Navitimer Ref 806 Jun 6, 2024

#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806

The Breitling Navitimer 806 with a black dial and sub-dials was on my wish list for quite a time. But it is not an easy watch to get your hands on. Despite that fact, I had two of them within the last two years. Well, as of today, I don’t have any either anymore. Let’s […] Visit #TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Seiko Prospex SJE117 And SJE119 - New Additions To The Updated Marinemaster Collection Fratello
Seiko Prospex SJE117 Jun 6, 2024

Hot Take: The Seiko Prospex SJE117 And SJE119 - New Additions To The Updated Marinemaster Collection

Last November, Seiko introduced an updated version of its famous Marinemaster - or maybe it’s better to just say it was a completely new version. The smaller and angular case, the engraved dial, and the new bracelet design made it look very different from the beloved Marinemaster SBDX001. Today, Seiko is adding two new colorways […] Visit Hot Take: The Seiko Prospex SJE117 And SJE119 - New Additions To The Updated Marinemaster Collection to read the full article.

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar Jun 5, 2024

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition

Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...

Maen and seconde/seconde/ Collaborate on their Second Manhattan Worn & Wound
Maen Jun 4, 2024

Maen and seconde/seconde/ Collaborate on their Second Manhattan

Just last week, Chris Antzoulis brought you a profile of Romaric André, the designer behind seconde/seconde/. At this point, most of you who will find this story will know all about Romaric and seconde/seconde/, so the usual introductory blurb explaining what this is, exactly, can easily be excised. It’s probably enough to say that over the last few years, seconde/seconde/ has become ubiquitous, collaborating with brands of all kinds and at all price points. It’s gotten to the point where much of the conversation around these collaborations is not actually about the collaboration or the design, but about the momentum of André’s brand. His watches, once rare and genuinely special, are now the subject of a seemingly weekly (an exaggeration, but not a huge one) limited edition. It’s impossible not to ask where we’re heading, and how we’ll get there.  Maybe part of the answer lies in the latest collaboration (at least by my count – there could be a new announcement buried in my inbox that I haven’t seen yet). The new watch is André’s second collaboration with Maen, one of our favorite small brands producing watches that truly impress with their design and finishing, always priced well below what you would expect. Their first collaboration, a limited edition version of the Manhattan with a cocktail inspired dial, was issued last year and sold out immediately. It was (and still is) one of my favorite seconde/seconde/ pieces. It’s playful, a natural visual...

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Navitimer – Jun 3, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph

Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial. Initial thoughts The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations. The 903 St II in classic black Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo.  The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants.  The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than ma...

Introducing the Wren Diver One, the First Watch From Wrist Enthusiast Worn & Wound
May 31, 2024

Introducing the Wren Diver One, the First Watch From Wrist Enthusiast

Designing and creating your own watch is a dream for many collectors and enthusiasts. Think about the questions and topics of conversation that pop up at watch meetups over and over again and how often they trace back to this idea of what you would do if you could make a watch. Little changes to handsets, the perfect case size, and favorite dial colors are all potentially on the table if you’re making your own watch. So it’s fun to observe the results when a friend and colleague in the watch community actually follows through and makes their own watch, which is what we’re able to do with the Wren Diver One, the first watch made under the Wrist Enthusiast banner.  Wrist Enthusiast was founded by Craig Karger in 2015 as an Instagram account, but has expanded in a major way just in the last few years, adding a blog, a YouTube channel, and a podcast. Over time, the Wrist Enthusiast Instagram account has developed a massive following of roughly 500,000 followers, and they touch on every major corner of the watch world, including covering new releases from both large and small brands. The new watch, according to Craig, comes from a desire to create something that he and his team would want to wear everyday, applying their combined knowledge and interests into a single piece.  The Wren (for WRist ENthusiast, if you didn’t catch it) Diver One has the broad outlines of a classic dive watch, which I think is to be expected given that this type of watch, specifically, has b...

Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2 Fratello
May 31, 2024

Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2

Horage, one of the odd ones out in the watch industry, presents the fourth model in its Lensman series, the Lensman 1.2. It’s another technically exciting offering equipped with an upgraded version of Horage’s K-TOU movement. But one should not ignore the watch’s appearance either. With its white dial and strap, the Lensman 1.2 is […] Visit Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2 to read the full article.

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin May 29, 2024

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator

Though Louis Erard is best known for its high-profile collaborations with independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Cédric Johner, the brand’s specialty is making interesting watchmaking accessible. Its signature complication is the regulator display complication, which has served as the foundation for several limited editions. The brand continues to do that with the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel, a regulator wristwatch featuring a two-part fired enamel dial in striking ivory. Initial thoughts The new release has a subtle ivory dial produced in a traditional manner, resulting in a glossy, nuanced finish feel evocative of dials usually found on pricier timepieces. Its contemporary typeface and numerals complements minimalist style. Dial aside, the latest regulator is identical to the standard model and contains the same Sellita calibre. As a result, despite the elegant styling, it’s a chunky watch that’s almost 14 mm thick. Nevertheless, this keeps the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel affordable at CHF4,400, which is strong value considering that most watches with such dials cost at least twice as much. Ivory enamel Louis Erard once again turned to Donzé Cadrans, the enamel dial specialist owned by Ulysse Nardin, for this grand feu enamel dial. Unsurprisingly Donzé was also the supplier for the ivory enamel dial in Excellence Email Grand Feu in 2021.  The time-only Excellence Email Grand Feu The production of grand feu enamel dials has a high rejection...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green Bronze WatchAdvice
Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green May 27, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green Bronze

We go hands on with the Bell & Ross Diver Bronze and see how the new Black & Green colourway fairs, not to mention what the patina is like! What We Love The gold hue of the bronze case The matte green dial is silky smooth Completely different look to most other watches on the market What We Don’t The strap is a little bulky for my liking The date window could be slightly larger The bronze patinas quickly Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 My first proper Hands On experience with Bell & Ross was with the Cyber Ceramic we reviewed in March this year. If you read the review (and if you haven’t, click the link and give it a read first, I’ll wait!) you’ll probably note that I wasn’t too sure on how I’d feel about an all black, square-shaped watch on my wrist. After all, I’m not that much into fully blacked-out pieces nor do I have a love for square-shaped watches. I’ve nothing against them at all, it’s just not my style…normally! But the Cyber Ceramic changed this, as after having it on my wrist for a week or more, I came to love the piece for what it was and quietly, liked having a watch on my wrist that was completely different to most other pieces out there, and not something you’ll see in the wild all that often. You’ll also note I mentioned that the watch I originally wanted to receive for the review was the recently released Diver Black & Green Bronze. Mostly for personal reasons –...

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Birch Bark” SLGW002 May 27, 2024

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003

Nature-inspired textures are a consistent motif across Grand Seiko’s portfolio, so it comes as little surprise that the brand would choose this familiar theme for the launch of its newest dress watches, the hand-wind and mechanical Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003.  With a dial that features a fresh take on the texture of tree bark, the Birch Bark is also noteworthy for the movement within: the first manually-wound caliber in Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family that hitherto was entirely self-winding. The SLGW002 (left) and SLGW003 Initial thoughts There are few things I like more than a manually wound, chronometer-grade dress watch. With this bias in mind, I am predisposed to like watches like the Birch Bark. But Grand Seiko made things easy by making it attractive as well, with a new iteration of its Evolution 9 design language that is lighter in terms of visual weight. The big news is, of course, the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. The Birch Bark is 1.75 mm (15%) thinner than its automatic siblings like the SLGH003, answering’ calls for slimmer, dressier options in the Grand Seiko catalogue. The watch is also 1.4 mm (3.5%) smaller in diameter, resulting in a form factor that sits comfortably on the average wrist and will slide under most shirt cuffs. Dimensions aside, the Birch Bark in titanium feels smaller and lighter than expected due to the case material. This runs counter to expectations, since most dress watches are in precious metal....