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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 20, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns

When Vacheron Constantin announced the original Twin-Beat at SIHH in 2019, I wasn't in the watch space in the same way I am now. I was also focused on a much different price point—the one I shop in, not the one that I've since become fascinated by. So I missed it. A lot of people did, it seems. I don't think this watch, as interesting as it is/was as a first release, was made in particularly large numbers, and for over a year, I heard rumblings about the eventual return of the Twin-Beat. Well, it's here. It's improved. And yes, in the metal, it's both entertaining and impressive. But what is it? Essentially, the watch leverages two balances that beat at different rates to provide either 4 days of power reserve running at 5Hz or 70 days in standby mode at 1.2Hz. Oh, and it's a perpetual calendar as well. We covered the technical aspects back in 2019, so this will focus more on the watch as a revived model. The technical is the key here, but the form factor is impressive as well. A perpetual calendar, with dual balances, measuring 42mm and 12.3mm thick, it's hefty because of the platinum case, but it wears quite well despite the technicality. Vacheron has a tendency to make some impressively complicated watches and, unfortunately, make them quite large in the process. This would never have been a problem in the old days (especially for brands like Patek, which dominated this high-end, integrated complication space), but then again, the specifications of the old days don't ...

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DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Takes the Adventure Icon into Titanium WatchRider
Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Jul 20, 2026

DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Takes the Adventure Icon into Titanium

DOXA has returned to the world of novelist, explorer and shipwreck hunter Clive Cussler with its lightest tribute yet. Released on July 15—the day Cussler would have turned 95—the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler is limited to 300 pieces and recasts the original 1967 SUB 300 in Grade 5 titanium. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: WatchRider. A titanium dial with hidden history The most unusual detail is not the metal case but the dial. DOXA constructs it from two superimposed Grade 5 titanium plates. The upper plate is laser-cut, creating a layered relief, while the sandblasted finish gives the grey surface an appropriately industrial character. Black lacquered hands preserve contrast and the oversized orange minute hand supplies the familiar DOXA signal colour. The dual-plane titanium dial and two-scale bezel. Image: DOXA. The date disc and the numerals 15, 7 and 31 appear in orange, spelling out Cussler’s birth date: July 15, 1931. The unidirectional bezel is equally busy for a reason. Its polished outer scale shows DOXA’s no-decompression depths in orange, while the brushed inner track carries a conventional 60-minute scale in black. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: DOXA. Familiar SUB 300 proportions, less weight The cushion-shaped case measures 42.5 mm across, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 13.4 mm thick. Grade 5 titanium is used for the case, bezel, screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, while an anti-reflective glass-box sapphire crystal preserves the domed profi...

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Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Brings Samurai to the Round Table Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Jul 20, 2026

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Brings Samurai to the Round Table

Twelve warriors gather around the table once again, but this time, Camelot gives way to Edo Castle. Roger Dubuis has a knack for creating watches that are equal parts human imagination and great craftsmanship, the kind you can spend hours staring at, whether they call upon dragons, knights, or are high complications that look like […]

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Catch The Four Bravur Team Heritage Watches In The Breakaway Fratello
Bravur Jul 20, 2026

Catch The Four Bravur Team Heritage Watches In The Breakaway

The breakaway is five minutes ahead of the peloton. It’s a strong group, and you’d better do your best to catch the four Bravur Team Heritage watches that are in the lead. They look strong and stylish in their historical team kit colors of St. Raphaël, Peugeot, Renault, and Mercier. Forget about the ultra-aero Lycra […] Visit Catch The Four Bravur Team Heritage Watches In The Breakaway to read the full article.

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The Ultimate Flex: When Watch Brands Leave Their Names Off The Dial Fratello
Jul 20, 2026

The Ultimate Flex: When Watch Brands Leave Their Names Off The Dial

In an age when luxury brands seem incapable of subtlety, there is something deeply seductive about a watch dial that says… nothing at all. Just form, texture, proportion, and confidence. Increasingly, some of the coolest watchmakers in the world are discovering that the ultimate flex is silence. It is a fascinating reversal of decades of […] Visit The Ultimate Flex: When Watch Brands Leave Their Names Off The Dial to read the full article.

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Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business WatchRider
Oris Artelier Calibre 113 Jul 19, 2026

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business

When most people hear the name Oris, their minds immediately jump to rugged dive watches like the Aquis or the vintage inspired Divers Sixty-Five. But if you only look at their sports watches, you are missing out on some serious mechanical flexing. Enter the Oris Artelier Calibre 113, a watch that proves this independent Swiss brand knows exactly how to build a highly complex, executive-level timepiece without losing its pragmatic edge. The Dial: A Masterclass in Organized Chaos Packing this much information onto a watch dial is risky. But Oris managed to keep the Artelier Calibre 113 remarkably elegant and legible. If you look at the outer perimeter of the dial, you will see the months of the year paired with weeks numbered 1 through 52. The use of varied textures, like a smooth outer ring for the calendar and a recessed finish for the sub dials, creates depth and prevents the watch from feeling overly busy. Calibre 113 The real star of the show is hidden right inside the name: Calibre 113. This is an in-house, hand-wound movement engineered by Oris that solves one of the biggest annoyances of manual watches, constantly running out of juice. Thanks to a massive, single oversized mainspring barrel, the Calibre 113 packs an astounding 10 day (240 hour) power reserve. Final Thoughts The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is a testament to what independent watchmaking can achieve when it prioritizes practical utility over sheer tradition. By combining an ultra-long power reserve wi...

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What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater Fratello
Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Jul 19, 2026

What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater

If you collect vintage Angelus watches or are simply interested in the brand, there are a handful of pieces you must hold in your hands. One is the mighty Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe. Another, some argue, is the Medical. The third place on my imaginary podium goes to the Tinkler. Sadly, all three are as rare as […] Visit What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater to read the full article.

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The Perfect Match: Why the Peanuts x Timex Marlin Snoopy Tennis Is the Ultimate Gift for Tennis Lovers WatchRider
Timex Marlin Snoopy Tennis Jul 19, 2026

The Perfect Match: Why the Peanuts x Timex Marlin Snoopy Tennis Is the Ultimate Gift for Tennis Lovers

Finding the perfect gift for a tennis enthusiast can be tricky. Do you buy more balls? A new grip? While those are practical, they don’t quite capture the love of the sport. If you’re looking for something that combines sentimental charm, horological history, and a touch of playful elegance, look no further than the Peanuts x Timex Marlin Hand-Wound Snoopy Tennis watch.  Vintage Country Club Aesthetics Timex nailed the retro styling with the cool Snoopy watch. The rich, grass-green dial paired with a gold-tone stainless steel case instantly evokes the classic color palettes of Wimbledon or a heritage country club. It comes on a supple brown natural leather strap with contrast stitching, making it versatile enough to wear with a suit or a casual polo after a Saturday morning match. Timex creatively integrated Snoopy into the time-telling mechanics: The Hands Snoopy’s arms act as the watch’s hands, with his racket arm pointing to the minutes and his empty hand tracking the hours.  The Sweep-Second Instead of a traditional seconds hand, a tiny, rotating tennis ball endlessly floats around the outer edge of the dial, keeping the match going all day long.   It’s an incredibly charming animation that adds a playful splash of personality to the wrist, guaranteed to make them smile every time they check the time. Vintage Sizing for Modern Wrists At 34mm, this watch stays true to classic vintage proportions. While many modern men’s watches push 40mm and beyond, a...

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Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W Brings the Dark Side to Eco-Drive WatchRider
Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W Brings Jul 18, 2026

Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W Brings the Dark Side to Eco-Drive

Officially known as the Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W, the latest Star Wars collaboration goes straight for the franchise’s most recognizable hardware. The red-and-black metal dial uses original embossed artwork to turn the Death Star into a richly textured backdrop, while a swarm of TIE Fighters appears to fly above it. An applied Galactic Empire crest occupies 12 o’clock, and the date window sits at 3 o’clock without trying to compete with the miniature space battle. Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W. Death Star detail, wearable hardware Citizen did not stop at decorating the dial. The angular, hexagonal 42 mm stainless-steel case is finished in dark gray ion plating and shaped to recall the six-sided solar panels of a TIE Fighter. A matching ion-plated steel bracelet mixes brushed surfaces with glossy central details and closes with a fold-over clasp and twin push buttons. A ring of oversized five-minute numerals around the crystal reinforces the industrial styling, with selected markings picked out in red. The watch looks almost architectural from the front, but a relatively conventional crown and three-link bracelet keep the construction familiar. The rear view continues the theme with an engraved Imperial crest, Star Wars branding and Lucasfilm licensing. It also confirms 10-bar water resistance, equivalent to 100 metres. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the elaborate dial, giving the watch specifications suited to regular wear rather than di...

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Keeping Cool During Summer With The Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue Limited Edition Fratello
Jul 18, 2026

Keeping Cool During Summer With The Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue Limited Edition

Depancel has made a name for itself by creating affordable racing-inspired watches. But what if the French brand shook the race livery and created a chronograph inspired by a uniquely elegant road car from the 1940s? You’d end up with the Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue. It’s a fresh take on Depancel’s popular Série-R Chronograph […] Visit Keeping Cool During Summer With The Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Fratello
Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic Jul 18, 2026

Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

There is always something to learn. For instance, did you know that sea stars have a massive depth range, living everywhere from shallow, sunlit intertidal zones to the pitch-black ocean floor? Many species prefer tide pools, but some deep-sea varieties thrive at astonishing depths of up to 9,000 meters (29,500 feet)! Not even the new […] Visit Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 to read the full article.

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Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls Monochrome
Ming two essential tasks winding Jul 17, 2026

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls

The crown is one of those watch components we rarely think much about. It has been there for well over a century, mainly performing two essential tasks: winding the movement and setting the time. We now have all sorts of crowns, including hidden crowns and even retractable crowns, yet very few have questioned whether any […]

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Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jul 17, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]

What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...

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Review: the Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” Worn & Wound
Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” I Jul 17, 2026

Review: the Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman”

I want to preface this whole review by stating that I’m not that much of a yachtsman. My last experience on a “yacht” was when I helped a buddy of mine move his sailboat. We needed to move the boat a scant 20 miles. Except that was the distance when traveling by land. Luckily, we live on an island (a Long one) and had some available water to move the boat. 23 hours, nearly 100 miles, too much sun exposure, and many bags of chips later, we made it through a stretch of the Atlantic Ocean around Long Island, then up through NYC’s East River and into the Long Island Sound. On my wrist was a Bertucci Field Watch — not exactly the most suited timepiece for the job, but since we stayed in the boat and out of the water, it worked just fine. Perhaps the journey would have gone a bit smoother had I had the right watch for the job…like the Fears Brunswick Helmsman. If this watch was on wrist, maybe we could have avoided the three hours straight of choppy seas off the Rockaways, remembered to put some more sunscreen on, and not decided to put the sail up five minutes before hitting a random thunderstorm. Fears Watch Co. was much more considerate in designing their Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” – a cushion-cased watch sporting 200 meters of water resistance, a bright white dial, blue accents, and a vibe that’s right at home on a sailboat. Let’s take a closer look at this watch that was designed for “those who find themselves regularly at the helm of a yacht or boat”...

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Review - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Sand, A Softer Take on the Racing Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Sand Jul 17, 2026

Review - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Sand, A Softer Take on the Racing Chronograph

The Carrera Chronograph Glassbox has become one of TAG Heuer‘s most versatile modern collections. Over the past few years, across the 39mm and 41mm cases, we’ve seen everything from classic panda and reverse panda layouts to vibrant purple, teal green and gem-set editions, each giving the watch a distinct personality. The latest version, the sand-coloured […]

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The Swatch Mission to the Moon 1969. What Makes the “1969” the Ultimate MoonSwatch? WatchRider
Omega History Unlike previous “Mission Jul 17, 2026

The Swatch Mission to the Moon 1969. What Makes the “1969” the Ultimate MoonSwatch?

Let’s be honest: being a watch enthusiast often involves making some highly questionable life choices in the name of horology. I should know. Back in 2022, I literally boarded a plane and flew to London just to hunt down the Swatch Mission to Uranus. I secured the pale blue prize, and then… I scratched it on the very first day.  But time heals all wounds, and Swatch has just dropped something that is pulling me right back into the gravitational pull of the MoonSwatch madness. Enter the brand-new, ultra-exclusive Mission to the Moon 1969. The “Mission to the Moon 1969” is not just another cosmetic color swap. It is a highly exclusive, 1,969 piece limited-edition release that bridges the gap between affordable hype and true luxury watchmaking. Here are the details that make this particular release a genuine collector’s fever dream: It’s Made of Actual, Re-Smelted Omega History Unlike previous “Mission to Moonshine Gold” editions, which only featured a gold-plated seconds hand, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is absolutely dripping in real gold. The watch features a solid 18-karat Moonshine Gold dial, hands, crown, and chronograph pushers, totalling exactly 11 grams of gold (a clever, playful nod to the Apollo 11 mission number). But the real magic is in the gold’s lineage. Rather than sourcing new gold, Swatch melted down actual vintage Omega spare parts dating back to 1969 using their in-house foundry. When you wear this watch, you are wearing a phy...

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Introducing - The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino now in Rose Gold Monochrome
Bianchet Jul 17, 2026

Introducing - The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino now in Rose Gold

Earlier this year, independent Swiss brand Bianchet expanded beyond its signature tonneau-shaped watches with the launch of the Rotondo UltraFino, a sleek round interpretation of its distinctive designs. With an ultra-thin profile, an integrated bracelet and a flying tourbillon movement, the titanium and carbon models introduced a more versatile side to the young brand while […]

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Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 Fratello
Seiko Marinemaster 300 I had Jul 17, 2026

Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300

I had already been running Fratello for a decade when Mike Stockton asked me in 2014 why we didn’t cover Seiko more often. It’s not that I ignored it on purpose; I was just more focused on Swiss and German brands. Slightly pushed by him, I bought my first Seiko watch. It was a Seiko […] Visit Is It Worth It? — The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 to read the full article.

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Horology And Indoor Cycling, Made Fun: The Bravur × Zwift Limited Edition Fratello
Bravur Jul 17, 2026

Horology And Indoor Cycling, Made Fun: The Bravur × Zwift Limited Edition

Indoor cycling? It’s a lot of fun on a velodrome, the perfect place to keep in shape in the wintertime. But indoor cycling tracks are hardly abundant, and especially in winter, riding your bike outdoors in sleet and freezing winds is rough and tough, both physically and mentally. A good option is Zwift, an indoor […] Visit Horology And Indoor Cycling, Made Fun: The Bravur × Zwift Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Reimagines Jul 17, 2026

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...

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