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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue Nov 20, 2024

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue

Ulysse Nardin has been breathing new life into its flagship Freak collection for the past several years, and the latest model to benefit from this focus is the Freak One Navy Blue, featuring a blue dial that pays homage to the original Freak from 2001. And that’s fitting, because the Freak One collection is a retelling of the story, imagining what the Freak would look like if it were to debut in the present day. Initial thoughts I’ve always had a great deal of respect for the Freak, though I admit I have not always been attracted to the aesthetic. That started to change for me when the design language started evolving to its current, more futuristic form. The Freak Vision of 2018 was the first step in this direction, but the model that really convinced me was the Freak S Nomad launched earlier this year. What makes these watches so satisfying is the way the mechanics have been reimagined to become the central design element; the time is revealed as the movement walks its way around the dial. In many ways, the One can be seen as the little brother to the Freak S. At 44 mm, the One is a fraction smaller than its more complicated sibling, but shares much of the same construction and materials. The case is titanium and finished with a black DLC coating, while the bezel is made of recycled carbon fibre composite. Like the Freak S, the One wears smaller than its dimensions suggest, thanks in part to its muted colours and the way the central carrousel draws the eye. The mater...

Collective Horology and Zenith Collaborate on a Limited Edition Defy Skyline Worn & Wound
Zenith Collaborate Nov 19, 2024

Collective Horology and Zenith Collaborate on a Limited Edition Defy Skyline

Collective Horology, the Southern California based retailer of independent watches, has unveiled their most recent collaboration, their second with Zenith. The ​​Zenith Defy Skyline C.X follows the El Primero C.01, Collective’s very first limited edition which was released into a very different watch landscape in 2019. Collective has changed along with the watch industry – they’ve become a full fledged retailer of independent watch brands, and have nixed the “members only” concept that the company was born with. It’s fair to say that Collective’s scope has widened considerably since 2019: their goal seems to be spreading the gospel of independent watchmaking at a huge range of price points to anyone who will listen, while continuing to hone in on storytelling in their own limited edition releases to make each of them feel special in their own way.  The Skyline C.X takes the latest version of Zenith’s Defy Skyline and strips it back aesthetically to resemble an imagined version of what the watch might have been had it debuted in the 1970s when the Defy collection was beginning to take shape. The theme Collective and Zenith are playing with for this edition is that of midcentury industrial design. To that end, virtually every surface of the case (and bracelet) has been given a micro blasted finish for a sleek, industrial look, and the familiar star motif seen on most Skyline dials has been given a dramatic gradient effect, with the engraved stars appeari...

Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying Fratello
Nov 19, 2024

Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying

After a two-week hiatus, Fratello On Air returns with an episode about how we research watches before buying. This is a listener suggestion that likely comes from the southern USA. We know this because the message contained the word “y’all.” Well, giddyup because it’s time to discuss our top tips. For our listeners, the watch […] Visit Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities Nov 19, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel

The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...

Maen and IFL Collaborate on a Graffiti Inspired Manhattan Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Seiko Tissot Nov 18, 2024

Maen and IFL Collaborate on a Graffiti Inspired Manhattan Limited Edition

Maen’s Manhattan has proven to be a watch that works particularly well as a blank canvas of sorts. We’ve seen a number of limited editions of Maen’s integrated bracelet sports watch (including our own) and each finds new ways to present the piece’s central idea of a 70s inspired, elegant sports watch. Maen seems to enjoy riffing on the name of the watch – their collaborations with seconde/seconde/ are both visual puns of sorts that play on our reactions to the word “Manhattan,” and their latest takes that approach to another level entirely. Now, working custom dial specialists IFL Watches, they’ve developed a tribute to New York City culture that it feels like the brand has been building to since the collection was introduced.  IFL Watches, for those unfamiliar, specializes in custom, handpainted watches, taking familiar references and personalizing them to varying degrees. They make a variety of limited editions and one-offs, and also offer bespoke services, and include popular enthusiast focused pieces from brands like Citizen, Seiko, Tissot, and more. There’s an enormous variety in the style of IFL’s handpainted work, with some designs being incredibly intricate, and others more minimal. Some are completely abstract. For their crack at the Manhattan, we see IFL working in a style inspired by the city itself: graffiti.  Graffiti, of course, is not unique to New York, but nevertheless feels like an appropriate medium for the Manhattan. The dial featu...

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review Teddy Baldassarre
Angelus Nov 18, 2024

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review

Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors.  When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot.  The ...

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds Nov 18, 2024

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase

It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet.  If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal.  Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...

Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches Fratello
Breitling purchased Universal Genève Nov 17, 2024

Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches

In December 2023, Breitling purchased Universal Genève and announced that the brand would return to the marketplace in 2026. Since then, speculation about the models and movements has run rampant. We still don’t have any information to share. Still, Universal Genève has announced three one-off Polerouter watches that celebrate the 70th anniversary of the SAS […] Visit Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches to read the full article.

A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit Worn & Wound
Nov 17, 2024

A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 Fratello
Rolex Submariner Ref 5508 You Nov 17, 2024

Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

You know what they say: “Don’t meet your heroes. It will only disappoint you. The curtain will lift on your enamored illusions, and you will come out sadder and wiser, maybe even cynical.” So when Nacho asked me if I would be interested in doing a hands-on with a 65-year-old Rolex Submariner, I was apprehensive. […] Visit Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Nov 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Highlights: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch Nov 16, 2024

Highlights: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...

Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nov 15, 2024

Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph

Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...

Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches Fratello
Rolex Watches Another Friday another Nov 15, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches

Another Friday, another list! This week, we take another step into Rolex Wonderland. With all the price decreases on the secondhand market, some of the Rolex models you have had your eye on might have become more within reach. This week, we look at some reasonably affordable Rolex models. They could be the start of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches to read the full article.

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 15, 2024

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time

One of the most iconic and beloved watch brands in history, Seiko is ubiquitous among newcomers, seasoned watch collectors, and everyone in between. Choosing one watch from a brand which has a catalog with such breadth and depth is not an easy task but the team here at Teddy was asked to do just that. Unsurprisingly, the answers ranged from contemporary dress watches to niche limited editions paying tribute to Sci-Fi classics. So, without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite Seiko watches. Let us know what you think and share your own in the comments. Mark Bernardo: Seiko Prospex SBDY025 "Save the Ocean" Edition How does one choose a “favorite” Seiko? As someone who writes about watches for an audience that appreciates all different kinds of watches, I’ve always found superlatives like “favorite” and “best” to be daunting. At the watch-industry trade shows I’ve attended over the years, I have often been posed with the question of what were my favorite new releases. My responses, invariably, have tracked not necessarily with my personal tastes but with the watches that made for the most interesting stories for my watch-savvy readers. And when it comes to Seiko, its history is chock full of interesting stories — the first Japanese-made chronograph watch in 1964 and first Japanese divers’ watch in 1965; the original Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969, and its successor, the Astron GPS model, in 2012, to name just a handful. There has...

News – Universal Genève Teases its 2026 Return, with Three 70th Anniversary Polerouter SAS Tribute Watches Monochrome
Universal Genève Nov 15, 2024

News – Universal Genève Teases its 2026 Return, with Three 70th Anniversary Polerouter SAS Tribute Watches

The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support […]

Highlights: Metiers d’Art at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet We Nov 14, 2024

Highlights: Metiers d’Art at Phillips Hong Kong

With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...