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EDITOR’S PICK: An owner’s guide on whether the Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves the hype Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves May 15, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: An owner’s guide on whether the Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves the hype

EDITOR’S NOTE: Around the watch world, there was a collective “WTF” exhalation this week at the news that two colourful dialled Rolex Oyster Perpetuals had each sold at Christie’s for over CHF 50,000 apiece (read Zach’s story about it all here). Hand-wringing over the prices of such hype pieces is understandable. But if you managed … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: An owner’s guide on whether the Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves the hype appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition Time+Tide
Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition May 3, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition

Bremont is a brand that needs little introduction. Based in Henley-on-Thames in the UK, they’ve become closely associated with tough, tool watches inspired by military heritage; think pilot’s watches, field watches, diving watches and chronographs. The British watchmaker has been going from strength to strength in recent years including opening a new high-tech facility in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection Apr 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection

The Rado Captain Cook has proved a big hit since its launch in 2017 with its vintage-inspired looks reimagined with a smooth, contemporary edge that gives the watch a unique character among the hundreds of other Swiss dive watches. The range has gradually expanded over the last few years to include a 37mm version, different … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer could be your Apr 23, 2022

The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Rolex … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) Time+Tide
Apr 18, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick)

Audric launched their first watch in 2020, deep in the throes of the global pandemic. The SeaBorne stood out from the crowd of Kickstarter-funded dive watches due to its multicoloured flair, attention to detail and impressive bang for its buck. For their second watch, the Audric Strider, the brand has now pulled out all the stops … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Apr 13, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch

Editor’s Note: We have partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the market status of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton that is rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into how the MoonSwatch collaboration with Omega has impacted … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Apr 12, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”

Founded in 2017, French brand Baltic quickly found success with its affordable, retro watches. The brand is now celebrating its fifth anniversary with a few commemorative editions in the pipeline, the first being the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”, a retro “Super Compressor” style dive watch dressed up in streetwear colours of the 1990s, the decade during which the thirty-something founders of the brand grew up. Initial thoughts A micro-brand that got its start via crowdfunding, Baltic’s growth is a testament to its commercially-sensible products. Its watches are amongst the best propositions when it comes to retro watches. Baltic’s watches are all eminently affordable, with just enough details to give them a tiny bit more appeal than their prices would suggest. By the same token, the Dual-Crown is an appealing watch. Compact and affordable, the Dual-Crown was only available in muted colours to date. In fact, Baltic hasn’t launched a special edition of the model to date (and the brand does a lot of special editions), making the anniversary model unusual. The anniversary model continues where the original Dual-Crown left off, which is colour, or lack thereof. For anyone who liked the original but wanted something more lively, this is it. The anniversary Dual-Crown is only differs from the standard model in subtle ways, perhaps too subtle. As a result it does not have the strongly coherent aesthetic of Baltic’s other watches, which are clearly an...

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Mar 25, 2022

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Last summer Tudor introduced several Black Bay variants such as the Fifty-Eight 925 and METAS-certified Ceramic. Though one of the most affordable amongst the year’s new launches, the most unique was arguably the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. While bronze is not a new material for Tudor – the brand has unveiled several bronze dive watches in the past – it’s a first for the compact Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) and also the first instance of a bronze bracelet. Given the popularity of the standard Fifty-Eight in steel, it leads to the obvious question: is the Fifty-Eight in bronze interesting enough to differentiate itself from its predecessors? Initial thoughts With the original BB58 has proven itself a winner, it is logical that Tudor builds on its success with a new palette, case material, and even minor improvements to the case construction. Though it is a Fifty-Eight in name, the Bronze is a very different watch. For starters, it is the first Tudor dive watch with a bracelet that isn’t steel. More usefully, the bronze bracelet incorporates a newly-developed, micro-adjustment clasp for easy sizing on the fly. While bronze isn’t rare amongst dive watches in general, it is unusual for Tudor, so credit should be given to the brand for its choice of case material. Tudor doubles down on the material by taking the bold step of using bronze not just for the case but also the bracelet, making this one of the few watches with a bracelet in the metal. Bronze is popular ...

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch Mar 22, 2022

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch

One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 18, 2022

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours

Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k Mar 16, 2022

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the first generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph watches, and whether or not they are seriously undervalued today. Today we are going to dive into … ContinuedThe post This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“This is about as rare as it gets.” The Omega Speedmaster that wowed the Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Mar 15, 2022

“This is about as rare as it gets.” The Omega Speedmaster that wowed the Antiques Roadshow

While the Antiques Roadshow always provides a reassuring form of comfort TV, it’s particularly satisfying when an unsuspecting punter hits the jackpot. That’s exactly what happened on a recent show when the Antiques Roadshow visited Ham House in Richmond, UK. A grey-haired guest on the show presented the show’s expert, Richard Price, with his brother’s … ContinuedThe post “This is about as rare as it gets.” The Omega Speedmaster that wowed the Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking a hot lap around the history of the Heuer Carrera Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2022

Taking a hot lap around the history of the Heuer Carrera

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Heuer … ContinuedThe post Taking a hot lap around the history of the Heuer Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 8, 2022

Omega Introduces the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m

Omega has just taken the covers off a slew of new watches for 2022, but the standout is doubtlessly the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m. The Ultra Deep began with a trio of experimental Ultra Deep watches that completed a 12-hour dive strapped onto the exterior of a submersible, reaching 10,935 m, or 35,876 ft, the deepest any human or watch has ever dived according to Omega. The experimental watch – which was rated to 15,000 m – has evolved into the commercially-available Ultra Deep, which is Omega’s capable dive watch. While having half the depth rating of the experimental model, the Ultra Deep 6000 m is much more wearable with a diameter of 45.5 mm, similar to that of a Planet Ocean 600 m, albeit with a case thickness of 18.12 mm. The experimental watch, on the other hand, was almost 28 mm thick. And needless to say, the Ultra Deep is a saturation diver’s watch, but one constructed impermeable to gases, explaining the lack of a helium escape valve. Initial thoughts Omega’s top-tier dive watches have always been thick, but the Ultra Deep takes it to the next level. With its enormous case, the Ultra Deep is probably not very wearable, but that’s an integral feature of a dive watch like this. It is so overbuilt that it doesn’t really make sense, but that’s what makes the Ultra Deep cool. While the technical achievement of the depth rating is impressive, the Ultra Deep is notable for more than just raw numbers. Among its novel features is O-Megast...

Recommended Reading: A Guide to the F. P. Journe “Tourbillon Nouveau” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain Mar 7, 2022

Recommended Reading: A Guide to the F. P. Journe “Tourbillon Nouveau”

F.P. Journe’s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain, the” Tourbillon Nouveau” or “TN”, was the longest-lived iteration of his first wristwatch model. Produced for 15 years from 2003 to 2018, the TN was replaced in 2019 by the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (“TV” for short), which was launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Francois-Paul Journe’s first tourbillon wristwatch. Though the first-generation Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and second-generation TN were fundamentally identical – both combined the tourbillon with a constant force mechanism – the TN brought with it several improvements. Most notably, the TN marked F.P. Journe’s transition from brass to 18k red gold for its movement plates and bridges – an impressive breakthrough at the time. The Tourbillon Souverain Regency with a hand-engraved dial The development of the TN along with its various iterations have been detailed in The Tourbillon Nouveau Collector’s Guide by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4moi. Relying on information from F.P. Journe itself, Mr Mehta explains the differences between the first- and second-generation tourbillons before moving on to production numbers and variants. He estimates only 750-850 examples of the TN were produced over its 15-year production run, most of them in the standard catalogue variations. But in his opinion, the rarest standard configuration is likely the version with both the dial and case in rose gold. The ...

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Mar 5, 2022

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. Introduction: The Panerai Luminor When … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.