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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up Oct 2, 2024

Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction

Let’s start with some perspective: fewer than 700 human beings have ever been to space. Of them, only 24 went to the Moon. And of those 24, only 12 set foot on its rocky surface. Edgar Mitchell was number six. Most wore NASA-issued Speedmasters, which are property of the US government and will not be […] Visit Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction to read the full article.

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph

Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs.  The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style.  The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe before establishing his own Oct 1, 2024

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph

A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...

Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner – What’s in a name? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Black Bay vs Rolex Sep 30, 2024

Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner – What’s in a name?

As I explained in my last piece, I am something of a Black Bay collector myself (picture the meme), having fallen for the 79220N Heritage Black Bay in 2015. Prior to this, however, I had already decided two years previously that I would buy a Rolex Submariner one day, somehow. Today, I want to focus on the 79220N Heritage Black Bay, the 79000N Black Bay 54 and the 124060 Submariner in my collection.

Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space Fratello
IWC Watches Sep 30, 2024

Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space

Four IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Polaris Dawn” models in white ceramic with space-blue dials are back on Earth. Along with their wearers, they launched from NASA’s Kennedy Space Center in Florida at 05:23 EDT on September 10th, 2024. The four members of the crew and their watches safely splashed down off the coast of […] Visit Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sep 29, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 90: Formex and Fears Focus on Fun (Complications)

On episode 90 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers three exciting and fun new releases, two of which have uncommon complications. First up is the new Formex Stratos UTC, which while being a GMT, operates unexpectedly. Next, is the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, a non-limited version of the watch they released with Christopher Ward a few years back. Lastly, we have the Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon, which continues the brand’s playful take on pilot instrumentation. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe. This episode was sponsored by Sternglas and their new Naos Pro Automatik Watch. As a special feature with this release, early buyers can secure a gold-toned Miyota 9015 movement. Head to sternglas.com to learn more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 90: Formex and Fears Focus on Fun (Complications) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Last Sep 29, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

Last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown saw two very dressy watches pitted against each other. We continue the formal streak this week but in a much more wallet-friendly manner. These two dressy numbers were positively received here at Fratello, even if they don’t represent the ultimate in horology. The big question today is: if you want […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 29, 2024

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

There are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, and then there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. For GaryG the Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain falls into the third category, so much so that it became a running joke for a friend to pantomime a “smelling salts” motion as a signal for Gary to pull up his sleeve and jolt him back to attention. Here he explains why he bought this new classic watch.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Marathon Sep 26, 2024

Enthusiast Spotlight: Navy Diver Brock Stevens Takes on Marathon’s New OSAR-D

For this latest edition of our ongoing Enthusiast Spotlight series, we’re excited to introduce you to 2nd Class Petty Officer Brock Stevens, a Navy Diver with over 5 years of active duty experience. During his service, he’s accumulated more than 9,000 minutes of bottom time. He is currently stationed at the MARMC Dive Locker in Norfolk, VA, and serves as a Ship Husbandry Repair Specialist, maintaining aircraft carriers, submarines, and other surface ships. As a proud co-founder of the MARMC Dive Locker ROV team, Brock leads a group dedicated to utilizing cutting-edge ROVs for underwater inspections and retrievals. Outside of his military role, Brock is a tool watch enthusiast with an ever-growing collection of dive watches. Additionally, he’s passionate about photography and pursues this passion by documenting his adventures, watches, and EDC on Instagram as @deepsea.edc. For this edition, we’ve equipped him with Marathon’s brand new reissue of the first of their iconic SAR line. The watch famously featured a MIL-SPEC Type I dial with a cyclops date. It relaunches today as the 41mm OSAR-D (Original Search and Rescue with Date). Hey Brock, Thanks for joining us for this latest edition of Enthusiast Spotlight. Tell us a little bit about yourself and what you do for a living. My name is Brock Stevens. I’m a US Navy diver. I’ve been a diver for a little over five years now as a Ships Husbandry Specialist working on repairing aircraft carriers and submarines. When...

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zenith Sep 25, 2024

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition

Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations.  The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal.  For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...