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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Rolex Jul 16, 2024

Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This time, we discuss exit watches after receiving a great topic request from one of our favorite listeners. It’s a familiar theme we may have touched upon before. Let’s see if our collective tastes have changed. For our listeners, watch content starts after eight minutes. Exit watches […] Visit Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref Jul 16, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU

Among Tudor’s new releases for 2024, the most conservative is undoubtedly the Black Bay 41 METAS ref. 7941A1A0NU, which offers a monochrome, black-and-white alternative to the gilt-and-burgundy ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003 introduced last year. Initial thoughts The new Black Bay 41 (BB41) feels instantly familiar. In fact, it’s a little surprising that it wasn’t already in the collection, being about at straightforward as a contemporary dive watch can be. But what it lacks in surprise, it makes up for in simple, tangible quality. While the BB41 was the original Black Bay – launched a dozen years ago now – it now sits atop a range that also includes the smaller Black Bay 58 and even more compact Black Bay 54. The BB41 METAS’ dimensions of 41 mm by 13.6 mm thick mean it wears similar to a modern Rolex Submariner; those looking for vintage proportions should consider the BB58 and BB54. Of course, the big news is METAS certification for the MT5602-U movement, which now carries a “U” suffix to identify it as a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. The differences from the standard MT5602 used to date are likely minimal, since the movement has always had a silicon hairspring, one of the most important features for resisting the METAS standard’s 15,000 gauss anti-magnetism test. The difference, therefore, is that the movement’s high-performance specs have been confirmed by an independent test. Tudor is all about value, and the BB41 METAS is no exception. Available with...

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow SJX Watches
Blancpain stand out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow

The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 15, 2024

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones SJX Watches
Chanel s Première Transformed Into Jul 15, 2024

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones

Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Fratello
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Jul 14, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date

Another Sunday morning, another showdown! This week, Thomas and Daan pit two popular dive watches against each other. Thomas fights for the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400, while Daan defends the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date. These two watches are similar in price, function, and concept but are worlds apart in style and execution. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date to read the full article.

New: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” Jul 13, 2024

New: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue”

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic "Blue" is a notable addition to the Black Bay lineup, featuring a 41mm matte black ceramic case and a striking matte blue dial. This model retains the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1 movement, ensuring high precision and anti-magnetic properties. The watch is equipped with a hybrid leather and rubber strap, as well as a fabric strap, both complementing the blue dial.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Jul 13, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like

This grail-worthy piece isn't just one of the “most platinum” watches made recently, but a glorious yet surprisingly understated example of haute horlogerie.The post Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#TBT A Vintage Take On Alternative Rectangular Cool With Mido, Tissot, Wyler, And Seiko Fratello
Tissot Wyler Jul 11, 2024

#TBT A Vintage Take On Alternative Rectangular Cool With Mido, Tissot, Wyler, And Seiko

I love to read stories about watch selections that follow a theme. When I spotted Thor’s list of unusual rectangular watches last Saturday, I instantly started to put together a list of my own featuring rectangular vintage watches. Well, here we are! Besides two crazy mechanical complications, you will also find classic style and even […] Visit #TBT A Vintage Take On Alternative Rectangular Cool With Mido, Tissot, Wyler, And Seiko to read the full article.

Marathon Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Marathon Jul 10, 2024

Marathon Watches Guide

Many watch companies have a history of supplying timepieces for military units around the world, from Blancpain and Tudor’s dive watches for the French Navy to Hamilton’s field watches for World War II troops to IWC’s pilot watches for German and later British air forces. However, only one watch company has been an official supplier to the U.S. armed forces throughout nearly its entire existence, and it’s a company that many watch enthusiasts might be hearing about for the very first time: Marathon Watch Company. Read on for more background and a comprehensive rundown of the brand's collection. The Marathon Watch Company, one of the very few family-owned watch brands in existence and one of the even fewer based in Canada, traces its lineage all the way back to 1904. Its predecessor, the Weinstrum Watch Company, was founded by the Wein family, Russian immigrants who originally settled in New York City. (Another branch of the family changed their last name to “Wenger” and founded another Canadian watch business under that name, though it’s not to be confused with the better known Wenger company in Switzerland, today part of Victorinox.) In 1939, family scion Morris Wein carried on the family trade with the founding of Marathon, basing it not in New York but in Montreal, Canada, where the family had moved during the 1920s - not exactly a hotbed of watchmaking even at the time, but an ideal home base for the mission that the company began in 1941: supplying dep...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More Fratello
TAG Heuer Breitling Cartier Jul 10, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More

We are still in the midst of the biggest small-sized revival of the decade, so surely all the bargains have already been snapped up? With patience, you’ll find hidden gems from the late ’90s to the end of the ’00s. But with many of these having been big-watch years, finding small but tough neo-vintage dive […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More to read the full article.