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Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon One Apr 22, 2020

Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon

One of the more interesting complicated watches launched in 2019 was a surprising one, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. While “Chronometer Tourbillon” might seem to be a pair of impressive words meaninglessly strung together as is often done for high-end watches, the Chronometer Tourbillon actually takes them seriously. Though the new watch doesn’t look particularly interesting – the design is handsome but conventional – it combines a particularly logical set of complications that were conceived for exact setting of the time, namely a hacking tourbillon with zero-reset carriage (and not just the seconds hand), and a minute hand that is set in discrete, one-minute steps. In fact, the Chronometer Tourbillon derived from the already sensible, but less fancy, Senator Chronometer that has many of the same time-setting functions. Though the Chronometer Tourbillon is an expensive watch by the standards of Glashütte Original, it is eminently sensible and smart from a technical perspective. And to prove that chronometric competence, Glashütte Original also tests the Chronometer Tourbillon to the German chronometer standard, DIN 8319, laid out by the country’s all-encompassing federal standards body. Testing takes place at the Sternwarte Glashütte, the town’s astronomical observatory, which was given a new lease of life by German watch retailer Wempe, which also has its own line of chronometer wristwatches. The process, however, is conduc...

Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home SJX Watches
Apr 18, 2020

Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home

A tall man with a grave face who is always stylishly dressed, Auro Montanari is better known as John Goldberger, the pseudonym under which he has published over a dozen scholarly books dedicated to watches. Auro is best characterised as someone with diverse and deep interests, making him a truly interesting individual. So speaking with Auro is always a pleasure, which is something Phillips specialist Tiffany To recently managed to do. At home, stylishly. Photo – Auro Montanari Now at home in Bologna, a wealthy industrial hub that’s home to Lamborghini, Auro is putting the finishing touches to Time to Race, a near-500 page tome covering the watches worn by auto-racing champions of the mid-20th century, an era when drivers wore watches as a necessity, and not because they were brand ambassadors. Auro’s desktop with Time to Race in progress. Photo – Auro Montanari Highlights from Time to Race. Photo – Auro Montanari In a three-part interview, Auro discusses the upcoming book – “I love cars, I love watches, and I put them together and blend everything” – as well as his varied life. Though Auro is a industrial-control software entrepreneur by profession, his interests have taken him around the world in a hunt for watches, and he also lived the Californian dream for a spell in the 1980s. Auro, circa 1982. Photo – Auro Montanari The white gold ref. 3450. Photo – Auro Montanari He describes the years spent in Venice Beach, during which he chanced upon a whi...

Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch Time+Tide
Casio s 21st century take Mar 19, 2020

Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch

Casio’s G-Shock watches are already widely regarded as some of the toughest SOBs in the business, capable of taking more punishment than Tyson Fury and still coming back for more. But the Japanese watchmaker has seen fit to, aesthetically at least, step it up a notch, by taking some of their most iconic timepieces and … ContinuedThe post Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? Time+Tide
Bremont Broadsword watches Mar 6, 2020

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors?

Editor’s note: Few other types of watches have transitioned so well from being utilitarian tools into weekend warriors as military-spec watches. Whether it be a broad arrow brandished member of the “Dirty Dozen”, a vintage Tudor Submariner used by the Marine Nationale or even a more contemporary Bremont Broadsword, watches that have been and are … ContinuedThe post Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002

Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Feb 20, 2020

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity

Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.  

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Jan 21, 2020

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing

Editor’s note: In 2019 we saw the popularity of existing steel sports watches with blue dials hit fever pitch on the secondary market, as well as a number of brands release their own examples of the watch that everyone wants on their wrist. But what about when a brand produces a watch that doesn’t just … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2020

Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck

Editor’s note: Making a unique and interesting timepiece is always a hard task, especially if you’re a nascent watchmaker that doesn’t have anywhere near as many runs on the board as the stalwarts of the industry. What’s harder, still, is making an idiosyncratic timepiece that also needs to meet the demanding rigours of a fit-for-purpose … ContinuedThe post Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers Time+Tide
Dec 27, 2019

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers

For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term “fashion watch” is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn’t have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 9, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial

2019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn’t matter if it’s a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph Time+Tide
Vertex Dec 4, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Oct 18, 2019

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point

Editor’s note: Razor-sharp details, timeless style and a solid new movement make the Baume & Mercier Baumatic an excellent option for an everyday dress watch that doesn’t break the bank.  The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance Time+Tide
Cartier Santos-Dumont Oct 9, 2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Oct 1, 2019

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic

The last time Audemars Piguet had a skeletonised Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the catalogue, it was 2015. The skeleton perpetual is familiar enough that it doesn’t seem to have been missing for that long, but it’s been a half-decade. In the mean time, Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled the next generation of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with the case widened to 41mm, and then introduced it in black ceramic, and only just, in white ceramic. And it took some time to develop the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar ever. But now the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is back, in proper, fine form. Putting a skeleton movement inside the bestselling Royal Oak in black ceramic is obvious, and could have been done in the easiest way possible. But AP went one better; it developed a new calibre, the 5135, that is not merely open-worked, but also redesigned for maximum aesthetic effect. “This is the first time in many years that AP has introduced an openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch,” says Michael Friedman, the head of complications at AP, “The effort here was to create an experience of contrast and play of light.” I’d say AP succeeded. The watch pictured is a travelling prototype, so pardon the cleanliness of the movement Ceramic and the Royal Oak But first, a small, modestly technical digression on the material and the watch. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic, specifically zirconium oxide stabilised with yttrium oxide – essential for...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 17, 2019

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique

Audemars Piguet’s latest watch for ladies is an elegant complication, or more specifically, a simplification with a twist. Inspired by a wristwatch from the 1980s, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique has only a single hand for the hours, and nothing else. But the hour hand doesn’t travel in a circle, instead it traces the oval shape of the case. Single-handed pocket watches already existed in the 18th century, when the precise time was not a concern for most people. But Audemars Piguet revived the concept in 1982 with the original Philosophique, a one-handed wristwatch styled like a pocket watch, with its crown at 12 o’clock. Though it was a men’s watch, the original Philosophique is tiny by modern standards, measuring just 32mm in diameter, making it significantly smaller than today’s Millenary Philosophique for ladies. Available in white or pink gold, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique features a striking, contrast case finish of granular “frosted gold” and mirror-polished surfaces. Inspired by Florentine jewellery, the frosted surface is achieved by hand, with a sharp tool that creates tiny indentations on the gold. The dial is finished with an irregular “hammer-like” surface, echoing the case decoration. But more intriguing than the decoration is the trajectory of the hour hand. Instead of travelling in a circle, the hour hand follows an elliptical path, tracing the outline of the oval Millenary case. This is possible because the hour...

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition Time+Tide
Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Sep 16, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition

It seems like only yesterday that Breitling released their Navitimer 1 Airline Editions. Evidently, time doesn’t stop for the aeronautically enthusiastic watchmaker, though, because they’ve just dropped this – the Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition.   Based on Breitling’s standard Aviator 8 Day & Date 41, the Etihad Airways … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

RECOMMENDED READING: Alfredo Paramico on the vintage watch market Time+Tide
Aug 6, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Alfredo Paramico on the vintage watch market

Alfredo Paramico doesn’t look like a watch collector. Living in Miami Beach, he looks more like an action hero, tanned like Baywatch and ripped like Schwarzenegger, and clad from head to toe in the latest designer capsules. However, in spite of this initial Wooster-esque impression, he is in fact one of the most well-known collectors … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Alfredo Paramico on the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?

If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren’t quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you’re missing something when you don’t wear a watch. But this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender? Time+Tide
Casio ns Jul 24, 2019

T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender?

Here at Time+Tide HQ, the banter is fast, free-flowing and deeply uninteresting for anyone who doesn’t love watches. Sometimes this spitballing makes it beyond our four humble walls, such as when the team built a fantasy $20K watch collection, and this is another one of those occasions. The question posed to the team this time: … ContinuedThe post T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Editor’s Jul 23, 2019

Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT

Editor’s note: Bruce doesn’t write for us too much, but when he does, it’s absolute gold. From his classic Batman review to this extended wear of the Tudor Black Bay GMT. A great, insightful take on one of the hottest pieces in the market right now.  When the Tudor Black Bay GMT debuted this year … ContinuedThe post Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Felix’s first nice watch – an Archimede Pilot that’s still in the rotation 10 years on Time+Tide
Jul 16, 2019

Felix’s first nice watch – an Archimede Pilot that’s still in the rotation 10 years on

So it’s a little bit weird to be writing an intro blurb for my own ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ video, but there you go. I’d also say that my own ‘story’, brief as it is, doesn’t stack up to some of the others we’ve got in terms of drama. But it is my story, … ContinuedThe post Felix’s first nice watch – an Archimede Pilot that’s still in the rotation 10 years on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.