Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Why Are Some Watch Brands Underappreciated?
Talking Laurent Ferrier, the Morgan Stanley report on the Swiss watch industry, new releases from AP and Omega, and more.
Results for The Dirty Dozen
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Interview – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard on Integrated Production, Future Generations and Sustainability
The roots of Chopard trace back to 1860 when Louis Ulysse Chopard founded his company in Sonvilier, Switzerland. The Scheufele family took over the company in the 1960s. Under their stewardship, Chopard experienced a renaissance and evolved from a traditional watchmaking company into a globally renowned luxury brand. Chopard is a vertically integrated, family-owned company, […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour
A watch that exemplifies the ambitious vertical integration of Louis Vuitton’s watch division, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour combines a skeleton tourbillon movement with a plique-à-jour enamel dial. Transparent and akin to stained glass, plique-à-jour enamel is rare in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands having accomplished it. But this specific form on the Voyager tourbillon, which goes without any backing under the dial, is even more uncommon. Because there is no base for the dial, the transparency of both the dial and the movement is maximised. Initial thoughts The original version of this watch, essentially identical but without the enamel dial, was launched in 2016. Louis Vuitton didn’t get much attention as a watchmaker then, though I liked the watch, particularly the slim profile and open-worked movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The quality of the watch indicated Louis Vuitton was going places as a watch brand. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since then as a watchmaker. It now boasts several automaton wristwatches, the Rexhep Rexhepi RR01 collaboration, and its own prize for independent watchmakers. Appropriately enough, the Voyager tourbillon has been enhanced, reflecting the substantial expansion and development of LFT since 2016. The movement, dial, and case are all made in-house at LFT, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s impressive manufacture that now rivals some of the most prominent names in haute horlog...
Revolution
Louis Vuitton’s High Watchmaking Novelties 2024 With Michel Navas, La Fabrique Du Temps LV
Join Wei, Eleonor, and Michel Navas, Co-founder and Master Watchmaker of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, as they explore the brand’s latest high watchmaking novelties of 2024. For over two decades, Louis Vuitton has been steadfast in its pursuit of excellence in watchmaking-an endeavor steeped in both tradition and innovation. With a commitment to […]
Fratello
Whatever Happened To Watch Fans’ Mechanical Fascination? - Make Complications Great Again
We seem to be living in a watch era in which people lose their marbles over a faded bezel - something that just happens - while man-made tour de forces like a gyro tourbillon seem to be brushed aside. I blame the retro trend, which gave us watches like the Tudor Black Bay. But it’s […] Visit Whatever Happened To Watch Fans’ Mechanical Fascination? - Make Complications Great Again to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Recommendations for Building a Watch Collection for £5,000/$6,000 Featuring Tudor, Tissot, Oris, and a G-Shock
If Raman Kalra was to hypothetically start building his watch collection all over again, this is what it would look like if he had £5,000/$6,000 to spend. He hasn't selected a watch from each category (diver, chronograph etc.), but rather watches he likes, and believes would cover different scenarios such as the office, casual weekend wear, and the beach.
Time+Tide
Why is finding mechanical chronographs for small wrists so difficult?
We explain why finding smaller chronographs can be so difficult - and share some that are worth your attention.The post Why is finding mechanical chronographs for small wrists so difficult? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide
In their relatively short tenure on the international market, Seiko’s Presage “Cocktail Time” watches have already established themselves in the minds of many enthusiasts as one of the watch industry’s very best value prospects in the realm of automatic dress watches - boasting in-house movements, high-end finishing, and the colorful dials that lend them their nicknames, each inspired by concoctions from Japan’s world-famous high-end cocktail bars. Here is a guide to the Seiko “Cocktail Time,” with highlights and milestones from the modern collection. Happy Hour in Japan Seiko served up the first round of its “Cocktail Time” watches exclusively to customers in Japan. The first of these “JDM” (Japan Domestic Market) models debuted in 2010 and carried the Reference number SARB065. Now discontinued (and accordingly in high demand by collectors), this watch (above) and its siblings, the SARB066 and SARB068, featured 40mm cases in stainless steel, which were fairly thick at 13.3mm high. The movement inside the cases was Seiko’s Caliber 6R15, with bidirectional automatic winding, a 50-hour power reserve, and an impressive resistance to magnetic fields of 4,800 A/m. Unlike the many Presage models that followed, the originals were not nicknamed after specific cocktail concoctions but simply for different styles: the SARB065 with its ice-blue dial was “Cool,” the SARB066 with a pale, cream-colored dial was “Dry,” and the reddish brown dial of t...
Time+Tide
Are Y2K watches coming back?
What's next in the vicious cycle of fashion trends? Buffy thinks it's time for Y2K.The post Are Y2K watches coming back? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Three new Seiko Prospex Divers Watches
Seiko again revisits their rich history of diver's watches with the release of three new models, now rated to 300m water resistance.
Fratello
Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care?
In this installment of Back to Basics, we’ll dive into chronometers. What does this term mean, and why should it be relevant to you? If you are (relatively) new to the watch hobby, the word “chronometer” may be somewhat confusing. Technically, any object that measures (meter) time (chrono) is a chronometer, right? Then why do […] Visit Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care? to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections
We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air, and this week, we discuss watches from brands that everyone should own at some point on their collecting journey. Our ideas come across as more of a suggestion than an edict, though. We also touch on several other watch-related topics before the main event. Enjoy the show! […] Visit Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Gimblett Gravels Annual Wine Selection 2021: An Exceptional Wine Region, Exceptional Wines
Ken Gargett recently had an extensive immersion into New Zealand wines for a couple of weeks, including those of Hawkes Bay, so it seemed an ideal time to look at the latest Selection, from the 2021 vintage. The other reason for doing so is that the quality of this latest Selection lifts it above anything else he has seen from this project.
Time+Tide
Fratello teams up with titanium specialist RZE for a rugged everyday tool watch
Affordable titanium is RZE's language, and Fratello are speaking it.The post Fratello teams up with titanium specialist RZE for a rugged everyday tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case
Today, we’ll take a closer look at a fascinating watch that I recently purchased at auction. As we’ll see, the watch brings together several notable details that separate it from other 30T2 models from the period. It was a gamble, but it has turned out to be a rewarding one thus far. I don’t often […] Visit Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case to read the full article.
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Fleming’s 'Series 1' Brings Together Two Young Collectors, One Tennis Star, And A Cadre Of Swiss Industry Veterans For A New Independent
Based in the United States and built in Switzerland, Fleming is the culmination of years of passion from its founder, but with a plan to be in the industry for the long haul.
Worn & Wound
Minase Debuts a DLC Coated Limited Edition Horizon
Of all the countries with prominent watchmaking industries, it’s possible that Japan’s is least understood. There’s a mythology around Swiss, German, and even American watchmaking that transcends any particular brand, but for many “Japanese watchmaking” is akin to saying “Seiko” or “G-SHOCK.” It’s unfair, for sure, as there are many interesting brands in the independent space making a name for themselves in Japan, and while it can be argued that Japanese brands share a certain sensibility when it comes to craftsmanship and quality, the aesthetc and design range is incredibly wide. Minase is one of my favorite examples of a brand that really illustrates this concept, as there’s a huge range within their own catalog, and they very much do their own thing while adhering to certain Japanese design and craft principles. Compare their execution of urushi lacquered dials to Seiko and you’ll begin to get the idea. Their newest release, the limited edition Horizon GEN DLC. The Horizon is a classic Minase case shape with an elongated, rectangular profile. The design is inspired by the horizon line stretching over the sea, which you really pick up in the subtle curves of the midcase. Like all Minase cases, however, this one is deceptively complex, with plenty of facets and other flourishes that make it visually interesting and appealing from every angle. The curve of the crystal, for instance, follows the curve of the case, and the case and bracelet appear on ...
SJX Watches
Business News: Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique in Singapore’s MBS
Patek Philippe has just reopened its longstanding boutique in the Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino resort in Singapore, after a renovation that gave the store a wall-to-wall makeover. Operated in partnership with Cortina Watch, a family-owned retailer that’s one of the brand’s biggest partners, the boutique features the brand’s latest store aesthetic that nonetheless remains recognisable with it use of dark and pale woods along with brass. Located in a choice location near the entrance to the gaming floor, the boutique covers 262 sq m, or over 2,800 sq ft. As is increasingly the practice for watch stores, the space is not just a showroom to display watches, but also includes an exhibit on Patek Philippe’s history as well as a lounge area with a bar. An enduring partnership One of Southeast Asia’s biggest retailers, Cortina became a Patek Philippe retailer in 1972. Twenty-twenty tw0 marked Cortina’s 50th year with Patek Philippe, an occasion marked by the Calatrava ref. 5057G, one of the rare instances the Geneva brand created a reference specifically for a retailer. Cortina established the first Patek Philippe boutique in Singapore in 2010, with the MBS story opening a year later. The retailer now operates more than half a dozen Patek Philippe boutiques in Asia, including stores in Hong Kong and Taiwan. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022 The MBS boutique is the first in Singapore to feature the brand’s latest...
Time+Tide
Jeremy Allen White’s go-to Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is as clean as his white tees
Like Carmy's tees on The Bear, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is a deceptively simple watch, meticulous in its craft.The post Jeremy Allen White’s go-to Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is as clean as his white tees appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. With sunshine finally appearing after a gray winter, it’s time to look forward to spring and summer. This week, we have a very special showdown. It’s a battle that we have never seen in our series - the current Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M versus the current Rolex Submariner […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Perpetual Calendars: What They Do and What Most Don’t Do
Chris Malburg highlights some of the finest examples of perpetual calendar watches today and dives into their history.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Big Reveal from Rivian, Voyager 1 Goes Dark, and a Dune Primer
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Voyager 1 May Have Gone Dark The “pale blue dot” image The New York Times reports this week that Voyager 1, the first spacecraft to leave our solar system and venture into interstellar space, may have gone dark. It had a good run: Voyager 1 was launched 46 years ago, and captured scientifically important images of Jupiter and Saturn, and famously turned its camera back home to snap the famous “pale blue dot” image of earth. As Voyager 1 left the gravitational pull of the sun, it continued to send data back to NASA, but that stopped sometime in November of last year, and it seems increasingly likely that the probe is simply adrift in space, capping decades of important research. The sheer distance Voyager 1 has traveled (and will continue to travel, whether it’s transmitting data or not) is simply mind blowing, and the longevity of the mission leaves an emotional void among those who care about this kind of research just as much as a scientific one. A Highly Anticipated New Lens from Sony According to a recent post on sonyalpharumors.com, a new first of its kind lens will s...
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day
As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...
Deployant
New: OMEGA Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch With Lacquered White Dial
The new Speedmaster Moonwatch with lacquered white dial is a stunning addition to the iconic collection. Speedmaster Professional in white dials are usually the most coveted - consider the Snoopies, and Alaska models. A new regular production model in white dial will likely be a hit among collectors, who want a white dial Speedy for that special model look.
Time+Tide
New releases from Audemars Piguet, Louis Vuitton, Omega and more
A special John Mayer collab with AP, a road sign-inspired Mr Jones and a nature-clad LV trio all released this past week.The post New releases from Audemars Piguet, Louis Vuitton, Omega and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When is a thin watch too thin?
Enthusiasts complain about watches being too thick all the time. What about too thin?The post When is a thin watch too thin? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Exploring Our Curated Gift Guides
If you are like us, you’ve realized how difficult it can be to shop for others. Whether it is the recipient’s particular nature or the overload of options at your disposal, finding and choosing the right gift is an art. Fear not, though: we’ve assembled four gift guides right here in the Windup Watch Shop – each is designed with a focus in mind. The first guide is aimed squarely at The Watch Collector (you know well who they are). The next category is a more general array of products that will appeal widely to the everyday man or woman, in other words, The Professional. Thirdly, we round up some of the best gear and accessories that The Adventurers will appreciate. And if you make it all the way to the end, you’ll find our top picks for gifts under $100. Let’s take a closer look at each one. Every guide is a living entity that is updated regularly, so don’t hesitate to bookmark them and revisit whenever you need reference points or ideas. Happy shopping! If you are like us, you’ve realized how difficult it can be to shop for others. Whether it is the recipient’s particular nature or the overload of options at your disposal, finding and choosing the right gift is an art. Fear not, though: we’ve assembled four gift guides right here in the Windup Watch Shop – each is designed with a focus in mind. The first guide is aimed squarely at The Watch Collector (you know well who they are). The next category is a more general array of products that will appea...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rotary RW 1895 Heritage Chronograph Limited Edition Review
A full review of the Rotary RW 1895 Heritage Chronograph limited edition. Get full specs, photos, and an expert analysis from the TBWS team.
Monochrome
Introducing – Audemars Piguet 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) in White Gold
Considered the precursor of the luxury sports watch category, the Royal Oak turned fifty in 2022. As expected, Audemars Piguet went to town to fete its icon with a host of celebratory models. However, the excitement grew when AP unveiled the first 39mm Jumbo to be fitted with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon (calibre 2968). Officially […]
Worn & Wound
Roger W. Smith and His Unique Series 1 Made for British Watchmakers’ Day
British Watchmakers’ Day is nearly upon us. Tomorrow, March 9, watch lovers from across the UK (and across the world – our own Zach Weiss and Blake Malin will be in attendance) will descend on Lindley Hall in Westminster to celebrate all that British watchmaking has to offer. The event is run by the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, and was conceived to raise awareness and money for the Alliance, which works to support watchmaking in the UK by fostering ties between its trade members. Roger W. Smith, the famed independent watchmaker who famously apprenticed for George Daniels, was an early Alliance member and one of the group’s most vocal supporters. He’s taking part in British Watchmakers’ Day this year alongside many of his colleagues in the Alliance, and he’s particularly excited about the diversity and the representation from a new generation of watch brands that will be present. “The vast majority of our trade members are outside of traditional horology,” Smith told me in an interview. “That’s very exciting to me, it means we’re going to have lots of innovation, lots of ideas, and new stories taking place.” One of those new stories is a watch Smith himself will be presenting at British Watchmakers’ Day, which is loosely organized around participating brands bringing limited edition pieces to sell for one day and one day only at the fair. For Smith, this presents a challenge and an opportunity. His watches are largely made by hand...