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Hublot Combines a Two-Week Power Reserve and a Blue Sapphire Crystal Case SJX Watches
Hublot Combines May 6, 2024

Hublot Combines a Two-Week Power Reserve and a Blue Sapphire Crystal Case

A perfect illustration of Hublot’s extravagant style and technical proficiency, the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire boasts 336 hours of power reserve thanks to seven laterally stacked barrels working with 90° bevel gears and a helical worm screw to drive the movement. This is a new variant of an existing model, with the difference being the case crafted from transparent “water blue” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Hublot is an anomaly. It’s one of the 20 biggest watchmakers in Switzerland by revenue and boasts a vertically integrated manufactured but is often criticised for being something of a “fashion” brand by enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike. Part of this pushback probably stems from the brand’s entry-level watches that use inexpensive stock movements that are priced expensively for what they are. The mechanics don’t live up to the price. That reasoning is sound, but it doesn’t reflect the brand’s top-of-the-line products. Like the recent MP-10, the new MP-11 reflects Hublot’s ability in movements and materials. Its manufacture develops and produces complex in-house calibres with unique complications and novel constructions, usually presented in cases made of novel materials with distinctive aesthetics and properties. The only downside of such complications is their size. The MP-11 is enormous at 45 mm in diameter, and it isn’t even the chunkiest watch that Hublot produces. This limits its wearability and ...

Fears and Topper Collaborate Once Again for the Limited Edition “Silver Sector” Worn & Wound
Fears May 3, 2024

Fears and Topper Collaborate Once Again for the Limited Edition “Silver Sector”

If you’ve been following Worn & Wound for any length of time, it should come as no surprise that we’re big fans of Fears Watch Company. Since the brand’s revival - Fears released its first 21st-century watch in 2016, though the name has been around since 1846 - they have consistently captured enthusiast attention thanks to a series of refined, eye-catching, and completely modern releases. Suffice it to say, when Fears tells us something new is coming down the pike, we tend to pay attention. Today, they’ve re-teamed with Topper Jewelers, the small family-owned Silicon Valley jeweler known for their stellar collaborations and limited editions, for what just may be one of their best releases so far, the Fears Brunswick 38 Topper Edition ‘Silver Sector.’ The Silver Sector is a slight departure from the two previous collaborations we’ve seen from the partnership between the Bristol-based watchmaker and Topper, trading the California dials that set earlier releases apart for a clean and contemporary sector dial with sub-seconds inspired by watches produced by Fears in the ‘30s and ‘40s. The dial is finished with applied markers and Fears’ signature skeleton syringe hands. It’s a new look for Fears, and it works brilliantly, offering a clean, monochromatic look without sacrificing any of the brand’s signature visual flair. And it’s gonna make for some killer wrist shots and I desperately want to see how this watch photographs through something like ...

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko as Apr 30, 2024

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, the Japanese brand that is the highest end arm of the Seiko family. In recent years, Credor has taken something of a backseat to Grand Seiko, as the latter brand has grown in stature, with rising price points as well as the introduction of an honest to goodness Super Watch in the form of the Kodo. But a new release from Credor to celebrate their big anniversary serves as a reminder of why the brand is unique and important within the larger world of Seiko, and Japanese watchmaking in general. The Eichi II is Credor’s signature watch, highlighting everything the brand is most adept at. It features a porcelain dial made by a single artisan, and the complexity of its manufacture and strict tolerances for quality accepted by Credor apparently result in an exceptionally high failure rate. The result, however, is an uncommonly beautiful canvas for the hand painted markers that are this watch’s calling card. For this anniversary edition of the Eichi II, Credor has crafted a dial in dark blue, and the markers have been hand painted in gold. Upping the ante somewhat for this release, the Credor logo at 12:00 has also been hand painted, a first for an Eichi II. This is also the first time a yellow gold case has been made for an Eichi II.  Of course, another major draw of the highest end Credors is the immaculately finished movements made in the famed Micro Artist Studio. The Eichi II runs on the 7R14, a Spring Drive movement with a...

The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega Fratello
Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition Apr 29, 2024

The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega

The Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition by Marta Ortega sheds light on a sport that has recently come to my attention. Padel is a big deal! Now the sport has a watch celebrating one of its most popular players. Marta also had a hand in designing the chronograph. I hadn’t heard much about padel until […] Visit The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli Nivada Apr 29, 2024

Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli

Nivada Grenchen’s F77 was a big hit when it was released last year. With an integrated bracelet, 37mm case, and exposed-screw bezel, the F77 captured all the fun of 1970s sports watches. Even better, this was no mere homage: the watch has actual heritage street cred as a reissue of a model produced by Nivada Grenchen in 1977. Now, Nivada Grenchen has leaned even further into that 70s funk, with four new dials for the F77. I got to go hands-on with arguably the funkiest of the bunch: the F77 Lapis Lazuli. The F77 LL keeps all the specs that made the original a hit, but with a new dial crafted entirely from–as you may have guessed from the name–lapis lazuli. The other three dials in the new F77 releases are beautiful, with one dial featuring an ​​anthracite basket-weave pattern, another made of aventurine, and one limited-edition model in meteorite. But despite the attractiveness of the other models, the F77 Lapis Lazuli is the clear standout. The blue of the lapis is vibrant and eye-catching, while the speckled pattern evokes a starry night’s sky. And because it is made of stone, each lapis lazuli dial will be unique. Despite being something of a novelty in today’s market, the lapis lazuli dial is true to the 1970s vibe Nivada Grenchen is trying to capture in the watch. Stone dials had their moment back in that era, and lapis dials are particularly collectable. (Just look up the lapis Rolex Datejust that now sells for tens of thousands of dollars.) Fashion is ...

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case Monochrome
Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Apr 29, 2024

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case

While pilot-style watches have now found a comfortable niche within the modern Patek Philippe catalogue, the introduction of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 in 2015 sparked more than just curiosity: it stirred a veritable commotion. Many were taken aback, feeling it was a departure from the typical Patek Philippe aesthetic. The design, markedly different […]

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2024

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas

Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. The post Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Apr 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

I have a special spot in my heart for Rado. It’s the only watch brand I’ve ever heard my mother talk about. She was a big fan of the black ceramic Diastar watches that Rado put out in the 1980s and ’90s. While that was a defining era for the brand, that’s not where it […] Visit Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar Apr 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar

The big news from Patek Philippe at this year’s Watches and Wonders came in “denim.” The pale blue dials and denim-look straps certainly drew the most attention. I would argue, however, that another watch deserves a bit more of a spotlight. Join me for a closer look at the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 in-line perpetual calendar […] Visit Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient Star M34 F8 Date With A Dial Pattern Inspired By Meteor Showers Fratello
Orient Apr 24, 2024

Introducing: The Orient Star M34 F8 Date With A Dial Pattern Inspired By Meteor Showers

I would be lying if I didn’t admit to being a big fan of Japanese craftsmanship, especially the emphasis on artfully inspired dials. Orient Star is the top-tier division of big-box brand Orient, a well-known entity if you’re already into watches. The biggest draw is that Japanese brands have a particular design mindset and quality […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M34 F8 Date With A Dial Pattern Inspired By Meteor Showers to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - Apr 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch

Zenith introduced two new models worth discussing this year for different reasons. The brand’s Defy Skyline Chronograph was a logical next step for the series. It even felt like the watch had been part of the collection for some time. It just seems like a natural progression for the Defy Skyline. The second big new […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet would launch their own Apr 18, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph

This is a pretty big year for A. Lange & Söhne. We’ve hit 25 years of the Datograph, which made its debut in 1999, and Lange is celebrating with a pair of very special limited editions of their iconic chronograph. One of them is truly off the wall, and we’ll get to that next week. For now, we’ll take a look at the Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold, with a blue dial. It’s a perfectly lovely example of the watch that many Lange collectors will insist put the brand on the horological map, and a strong counterpoint to the other Datograph that we’ll tell you more about soon.  First, it’s crucial to understand the importance of the Datograph not just in Lange’s collection, but in high end watchmaking writ large. When it was first unveiled in 1999, Lange was a young brand, only five years into their relaunch. They had earned the respect of connoisseurs in the late 1990s, but the introduction of their first in-house chronograph caliber with the Datograph took them to another level. This was years before Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet would launch their own in-house chronograph calibers, in an era where using supplied calibers from chronograph was common for brands at every level, including the absolute upper tier. It can be argued that the Datograph ushered in an arms race of sorts that would find many of the highest end watchmaking manufactures in a constant state of one-upmanship that goes on to this day.  There have been a variety of Datograph...

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2024 SJX Watches
Cartier s Cyrille Vignernon retire Apr 17, 2024

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2024

Watches & Wonders 2024 just closed its doors earlier this week, and as usual attendance was up. Visitors increased 14% over last year, reaching some 49,000. It certainly felt more crowded, though sentiment was muted. Glamour, however, was delivered by the visits of Gisele Bündchen and Kylian Mbappé at IWC and Hublot respectively. Interestingly, there seemed to be fewer notable independent watchmakers walking around the halls then before, perhaps reflecting their success (which means they needed to meet clients). Gisele Bündchen sporting the new Portugieser chronograph. Image – Watches & Wonders Destiny On the topic of people, the inevitable questions about who’s going where were circulating as usual. When will Cartier’s Cyrille Vignernon retire and who will replace him? Will there be management changes at the LVMH watch division with Frederic Arnault in charge? Insiders have some idea and the rest of us will have to wait. Questions were also asked about brands, specifically smaller players with mixed fortunes – whether they will be sold or simply shut down, like Rebellion was a few months ago. There is of course the perennial sale of Parmigiani, but that isn’t really news – the brand has been quietly on the market for years with no takers. Some brands might have been lucrative exits for their owners a year ago, but now the discussion about a dimmer fate reflects the palpably normalised watch business. Where the outlook is always bright. Image – Watches & W...

First Look – Round Two of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x atelier oï Monochrome
Louis Erard x atelier oï Manuel Apr 17, 2024

First Look – Round Two of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x atelier oï

Manuel Emch, the head of Louis Erard, is on a mission to democratise watchmaking. By inviting watchmakers, designers and artists to collaborate on different projects and offering traditional métiers d’art dials to a broader audience at accessible prices, Louis Erard fills a big gap in the watchmaking scene. Once again, the brand’s versatile Regulator watch […]

Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot Fratello
Cartier Hermès Apr 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot

Maybe it’s because I experienced Watches and Wonders from a distance this year, but I have the feeling there weren’t really any big showstoppers among all the novelties. However, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any good releases. And who buys those showstoppers anyway? That’s why, for my list of favorites, I’ve chosen a trio […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot to read the full article.

Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation

My theoretical-wrist-grail taste has evolved, as has the watch-collecting community. In the face of unavailability and client-selective ADs, independent choices have come to the fore. And despite the shaky world markets, plenty of potential buyers are looking for alternatives outside the big-brand catalogs. Debuting back in 2010 with distinctively minimal luxury and the world’s best-looking […] Visit Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation to read the full article.

The Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Now Been Updated For 2024 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Apr 9, 2024

The Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Now Been Updated For 2024

Oris is one of those brands that we love to talk about here at TBWS, simply for the fact that the team always seems happy to just do their own thing. This year, instead of doing something big and flashy, Oris has moved to update their vast catalog of Oris Aquis Date models for 2024. It's a key collection and this kind of care ensures that the watches don't become stale, as Oris aims to put out the best that they possibly can. The Aquis is just a great, sturdy dive watch from an independent brand and these new models are available in 43.5mm, 41.5mm, and 36.5mm case sizes with a bunch of dial color options and a choice to go with the in-house Oris Caliber 400 on the 43.5mm version. Let's try to wrap our heads around this.

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is the indisputable highlight of A. Lange & Söhne’s novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024. Pulling out its big guns at Watches & Wonders, Lange has treated its über-complex flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon cocktail to an exclusive Honeygold case and, for the cherry on top, a luminous […]

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde

If you’re new to watches and have noticed the big wave of retro love sweeping the world, the Ulysse Nardin Freak will surely shock your system. And it will stun you even more if you are not privy to the fact that this is an ever-evolving creation that is already over 20 years old. That’s […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

For the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating in a big way with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Given the milestone anniversary, it’s fitting to see the most technically exceptional Datograph delivered in the appealing Honeygold “Lumen” format first seen in 2021 with the Zeitwerk. This is the ultimate anniversary Datograph, with a price to match. The 25th anniversary, however, is also being marked with the more affordable Datograph Up/Down in white gold. Initial thoughts It’s hard to overstate the impact that the original Datograph had on fine watchmaking – specifically the construction of high-end chronograph movements – since its debut in 1999. Much has been written about this moment, but in short this is an anniversary worth celebrating.  As good as the “Lumen” is, and it’s nearly faultless, I expected more from Lange. At the end of the day it’s a combination of known elements, so the end result is not groundbreaking.  That said, there isn’t much I’d change. The underlying L951 calibre remains best-in-class after a quarter of a century, and the tourbillon version, which has now been in production for nine years, is executed masterfully. Given the degree of complication and Lange’s proclivity for making big, sturdy watches, the proportions are actually not that bad. While known to be a bit top heavy, the overall dimensions are not outside the norm, especially for a watch of this complexit...

Breitling Continues to Expand the Navitimer Collection with Time-Only and GMT References Worn & Wound
Breitling Continues Apr 5, 2024

Breitling Continues to Expand the Navitimer Collection with Time-Only and GMT References

The Navitimer is one of a very small handful of watches that is quite simply an undisputed classic. If you say the name, it conjures an immediate image in the mind’s eye: a busy pilot’s chronograph with an uncommon (but completely useful) slide rule bezel. It has the look of a real flight instrument because in a very real sense that’s exactly what it is. But the very idea of what a Navitimer can be has changed a lot in recent years, with the introduction of references that skip the chronograph entirely. The Navitimer is now more than just a single iconic watch, it’s a collection of aviation inspired watches that use the classic as a starting point but branch out into all kinds of new areas.  It’s the kind of thing that purists, frankly, sneer at. But it’s an undeniably shrewd move by Breitling to get the Navitimer name out there, and the watches on the wrists of new customers who may not be interested in a toolish chronograph whose design hasn’t changed much for decades. So now, in an expansion of the collection tied to Breitling’s 140th anniversary, we have a new Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41.  The Navitimer Automatic 41 is perhaps the most straightforward execution of the Navitimer aesthetic, sans chronograph, yet. It’s not the first Navitimer in a 41mm case without a chrono complication, but it is the first without a date at the 6:00 position. This dateless execution is considerably cleaner and will probably be of greater appeal to enthusiasts than ...