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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Jun 14, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique

Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...

Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” SJX Watches
Breitling Premier B01 wh Jun 14, 2021

Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda”

Tudor was founded in 1946 expressly to offer good value, specifically, its founder Hans Wilsdorf (who’s better known to establish Rolex) wanted Tudor watches to offer the trademark dependability of its bigger brother, but at a more accessible price. Seventy-five years later that remains true, with watches like the Black Bay 58 being amongst the best dive watches in its price segment. When I covered the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” at its launch earlier in the year, I wrote it is “likely the best-value sports chronograph one can find under US$5,000”. So I naturally jumped at the opportunity to test drive the watch for a week. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Chrono “Panda” is, on its face, a more accessible alternative to the Rolex Daytona, now virtually impossible to get at retail. The similarities between the two are obvious: a “Panda” dial with one line of red text, screw-down pushers, and a black tachymetre bezel. Yet to simply pigeonhole the Black Bay Chrono “Panda” as a more affordable Daytona would do it a disservice. The Black Bay Chrono possesses enough character to stand on its own. It’s instantly recognisable as a Tudor with the signature “snowflake” hands matched with round indices. Though the new Black Bay Chrono is near identical visually to the first-generation model, it has been refined with a slightly thinner case. Nevertheless, the watch is still relatively thick on the wrist, slightly beefier than the Breitling Premier B01 wh...

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors Time+Tide
Jun 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors

Editor’s note:  Recently I spoke to a former salesman at a high-end Australian watch retailer. He told me that his store didn’t have a “passive waiting list” where you’re rewarded for patiently queuing up. In fact, to disoblige customers of that notion, the shop preferred a more pointedly ambiguous term: “the expression of interest list”. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RGM Model 25 Custom “Kauai”: Say Aloha To Extreme Guilloche Quill & Pad
RGM Jun 13, 2021

RGM Model 25 Custom “Kauai”: Say Aloha To Extreme Guilloche

RGM Model 25 “Kauai” features waves depicting the Pacific Ocean carefully engraved with a hand-powered guilloche machine. These waves surround a gently brushed and laser-engraved map of the Hawaiian island of Kaua’i. But instead of the geometrically repeated patterns of typical guilloche, the waves follow in random formations, just as they are in nature. The effect is simply stunning, making this customized unique piece a real treasure.

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection…

All too often we discuss watches as assets. Usually when we hear about people selling pieces from their collection it is part of an effort to fund the next watch – something I am well documented in doing. But when you reach a certain collection tier, or have the right references, moving such watches can … ContinuedThe post Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good Quill & Pad
Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Jun 12, 2021

New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good

Of all the watches extoling the virtues of the mechanical movement, no other piece does it as simply, cleanly, or in as straightforward a manner as the Corum Golden Bridge. The 10-year-anniversary version of the Golden Bridge Automatic sees some aesthetic changes made to its avant-garde case, and in particular the iconic sapphire crystal.

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible Time+Tide
Bovet Jun 12, 2021

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible

A couple of weeks ago, Rolls Royce announced a $37m four-seat convertible that would be almost entirely bespoke. Known as the Boat Tail, the car was said to have been dreamed up by one of Rolls Royce’s most important clients who was excited by the possibility of commissioning something truly magnificent with the manufacturer. The … ContinuedThe post Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Chronograph Annual Calendar SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jun 11, 2021

Up Close: Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Chronograph Annual Calendar

Parmigiani launched its first sports watch, the Tonda GT, last year. It has an integrated bracelet naturally – inevitable given current trends. Parmigiani is, however, pretty late to the game, since the high-end sports watch with an integrated-bracelet is well used idea. The big names have been doing it since the 1970s, courtesy of Gerald Genta, but the recent popularity of the style means many brands have had a go. Notable new entrants include Chopard, H. Moser & Cie., and even Citizen. Now their ranks are joined by Parmigiani, which, against the odds, has pulled it off with an original, high-quality luxury-sports watch. The Tondagraph GT in its original iteration that was a limited edition of 200 The origins of the Tonda GT might not seem promising. Lacking a historical sports watch design, Parmigiani elected to instead transform one of its dress-watch cases into a sports watch. Surprisingly, the Tonda GT is arguably better looking than the Tonda dress watch. The most compelling offering in the sports watch line is the Tondagraph GT, which combines a chronograph, annual calendar, and sensible pricing. Initial thoughts On paper the Tondagraph GT might not seem interesting. It’s yet another integrated-bracelet luxury-sports watch – and it’s powered by a modular movement. But in hand, the watch is surprisingly appealing. The case is big but thin, with a bracelet that’s equally slim, creating a watch with a comfortable, streamlined profile on the wrist. Even th...

George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch With High Estimate Of £300,000 To Be Auctioned By Bonhams Quill & Pad
Jun 10, 2021

George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch With High Estimate Of £300,000 To Be Auctioned By Bonhams

With auction prices soaring, it’s a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. George Daniels and Roger Smith made a series of 50 Millennium wristwatches back in 1999, and Bonhams is now offering one in its sale on June 16, 2021 with a high estimate of £300,000. Don't be surprised if it goes for much more than that, though.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow Time+Tide
Grand Seiko blue snow You don’t Jun 10, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow

You don’t hear about watch scams very often. So when the inside story of a fiendish attempt recently emerged, we interviewed the gentleman who almost became the victim. Gautaman Senivasan is a Singapore watch collector and trader who invited a prospective buyer into his home to inspect some watches he was selling. What happened next … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are Women A Game Changer In Watches? A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseur Conversations (Video) Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 9, 2021

Are Women A Game Changer In Watches? A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseur Conversations (Video)

Many women choose to wear men's watches. But why? And what are women looking for in a watch? More and more female collectors are changing the game. Join the conversation about a highly relevant topic with Beth Hannaway, head of Harrods's Fine Watches, businesswoman and collector Lung Lung Thun, and Barbara Hans, head of marketing at A. Lange & Söhne.

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex) SJX Watches
Rolex Jun 9, 2021

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex)

Amongst the projects to tackle climate change that’s being supported by Rolex was the successful scientific expedition to Tupungato, a dormant volcano that’s one of the highest mountains in Americas that sits on the border of Chile and Argentina. Led by National Geographic and backed by the Chilean government, the expedition team embarked on a 15-day trek up Tupungato in early April to install a weather station just below the summit – 6,505 m above sea level – that’s the highest weather installation in the Southern and Western Hemispheres. The purpose of the expedition was, of course, not to explore the uncharted; such endeavours had their heyday in the postwar era, with Rolex keeping time for many of them. Instead the watchmaker supports scientists and conservationists on expeditions that aid understanding of climate change and its effects – all of which are part of the Perpetual Planet initative. Tupungato National Geographic A pillar of Perpetual Planet is Rolex’s partnership with National Geographic, the iconic, yellow-bordered magazine of the National Geographic Society. The partnership seeks to understand and address the impact of climate change, through expeditions and field research that harness data taken at crucial locations that are often harsh and inaccessible. The partnership’s first expedition took place in 2019, when a team travelled up Mount Everest to set up the highest-altitude weather station in the world – 8,430 m above sea level ...

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Anniversary Featuring One Mainspring, One Differential, Two Geartrains, And Two Remontoire d’Egalité Escapements Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Jun 6, 2021

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Anniversary Featuring One Mainspring, One Differential, Two Geartrains, And Two Remontoire d’Egalité Escapements

Launched in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance was the first wristwatch with a resonance mechanism and it catapulted F.P. Journe into the major leagues. This latest model in celebration of its 20th anniversary is an entirely new piece based on the resonance phenomenon that now incorporates a larger single mainspring (the original had two mainsprings) with a differential driving the two going trains and a pair of remontoire d’égalité escapements.

Vintage Watch Snobbery - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe had ever created – Jun 6, 2021

Vintage Watch Snobbery - Reprise

Standing before What Makes Me Tick's eyes was the most perfect of God’s creatures, a wonderful mix of Audrey Hepburn and Penelope Cruz. He thought his heart had skipped a beat, and he heard the chimes of every single minute repeater Patek Philippe had ever created – all chiming at exactly the same time! Six months later the gentle creature and he were married. This extraordinary story reflects the marvelous world of vintage watches: finding the rare bird, linking it to a story, and never letting it go.

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ Jun 6, 2021

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ - Reprise

A good friend of GaryG's owns a cream-dialed Reference 2526, and Gary has often admired it over the years but hadn’t really understood the role that the 2526 plays in Patek Philippe’s history until talking with him and other watch pals and doing some late-night online research. Read on to learn why he bought this special "Gobbi Milano" edition from 1954 in an exciting spur of a moment.

Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe is up for auction at a surprisingly low estimate Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jun 5, 2021

Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe is up for auction at a surprisingly low estimate

The 2021 auction season has seen highs and lows, marked by a lack of physical attendance in the auction halls due to COVID and a tendency towards conservative estimates to ensure that projections are broken. But excitement is mounting ahead of Christie’s closing auction before the summer, with Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe being the big … ContinuedThe post Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe is up for auction at a surprisingly low estimate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Jun 5, 2021

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari

In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.

Fake charity muggers steal Rolex watches using David Blaine trick Time+Tide
Rolex watches using David Blaine Jun 5, 2021

Fake charity muggers steal Rolex watches using David Blaine trick

Imagine you’re walking down the street, minding your own business, when someone stops you and asks if you have time to sign a petition to support a good cause. You think: “Sure, this will only take a few seconds,” so you agree and sign your name at the bottom of a very long list of … ContinuedThe post Fake charity muggers steal Rolex watches using David Blaine trick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 4, 2021

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange

It’s a bit unusual for GaryG to be writing this soon about a newly acquired piece – this one only arrived a little over a week ago – so he will reserve the right to add pluses and minuses in future articles once this watch has gotten substantial wrist time. Already, though, there are several reasons why he can say that he's smitten with this watch. Read on to discover what he likes and whether he has any quibbles.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Jun 4, 2021

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts on Show in Geneva

Patek Philippe has made it a tradition to stage an annual exhibition of the year’s unique and limited edition watches decorated using fine artisanal techniques, some of which are distinctive to the brand. This year’s Rare Handcrafts Exhibition will take place June 16 to July 3 at its usual venue, the historical Patek Philippe Salon along the ritzy Rue du Rhone, just at the edge of Lake Geneva. The year’s Rare Handcrafts lineup is made up of 75 timepieces, encompassing pocket- and wristwatches as well as clocks – all of which will be on display. But the exhibition will be twice as large, thanks to the 70 timepieces of the 2020 collection that were never showcased as last year’s exhibition was cancelled. And the exhibition will also include some of this year’s newly launched wristwatches. One of this year’s Rare Handcrafts, the pocket watch ref. 995/122J “Panda” decorated with wood marquetry on the back, engraving on the case, and flinqué enamel on the dial Visitors can expect to see a wide-ranging array of traditional decorative techniques on the watches and clocks, including a variety of enamelling methods, such as cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, fauré, miniature and Limoges painting, as well as unusual Longwy enamelling that’s named after the French town where it was invented. Gem-setting and wood marquetry will also be on show. And there will be also be artisans on hand to demonstrate their craft – including enamelling, engraving, marquetry an...

Do you secretly have a fortune worth of watches sitting in your drawer? Time+Tide
Jun 4, 2021

Do you secretly have a fortune worth of watches sitting in your drawer?

Most watch collectors know, down to the dollar, how much each of their watches are worth. But there’s an even bigger number of watch owners who have no idea of their watches’ true value.  In fact, new data from a Watchfinder & Co report, suggests that $60 billion of watches could be gathering dust in … ContinuedThe post Do you secretly have a fortune worth of watches sitting in your drawer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Jun 3, 2021

Up Close: Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe

A variant of the fourth-generation F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, the Opus 1 Tourbillon was part of the inaugural project of the Opus series, the annual independent-watchmaker collaboration invented by Max Büsser of MB&F; fame. Named after the Opus One vineyard that’s also a joint venture between Americans and Europeans, Opus established Harry Winston as a bona fide watchmaker. Though Harry Winston has now put more emphasis on its primary jewellery business, its past Opus projects are mostly interesting and important examples of contemporary watchmaking. Ironically, despite being the opening act, the Opus 1 models were amongst the least novel, because they were essentially F.P. Journe movements dressed in Harry Winston attire. But that also makes the Opus 1 interesting simply because they were F.P. Journe. The Opus 1 was made up of three models – the Tourbillon, Resonance, and Reserve de Marche – each based on the equivalent F.P. Journe model, meaning an identical movement but a platinum case in the trademark Harry Winston style. Phillip’s Hong Kong watch auction this weekend includes an Opus 1 Tourbillon, which is worth a closer look, if for no other reason than the fact that it’s one of the rarest variants of the early F.P. Journe tourbillon. Initial thoughts The Opus 1 – any one of the three versions – is a peculiar watch. It is fundamentally an F.P. Journe, yet feels nothing like an F.P. Journe. If you closed your eyes and compared the two...

Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva to Return in Physical Format SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rolex Jun 3, 2021

Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva to Return in Physical Format

Even before the pandemic took hold, the last couple of years have been chaotic for Switzerland’s major watch fairs, with many an unexpected turn of events before COVID-19 put an end to the physical event in 2020. But now it appears the world is back on track, with Watches & Wonders (W&W;) slated to take place at end-March 2022 – as a physical event in its traditional Palexpo venue. The return of W&W;, now Switzerland’s only large-scale watch fair, feels long overdue. Arguably the saga began in 2018 when watchmaking giant Swatch Group exited Baselworld, then still the largest jewellery and watch fair in the world. Its departure triggered a chain reaction that would eventually prove fatal for Baselworld. Stalwart exhibitors including Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Chanel pulled out of Baselworld, sealing the event’s fate – and resulting in a small kerfuffle over exhibition-fee refunds. The brands departed Baselworld to join the fair in Geneva, then still known as SIHH. It was renamed W&W; to welcome the new exhibitors – and ran headlong into a major public-health crisis. Only one physical watch fair took place in Switzerland in 2020, albeit it on a small scale. It was only in China that a full-scale W&W; did happen, twice no less, demonstrating the frenzied demand for luxury watches there. A scene from SIHH 2019, the last time a full-scale watch fair happened in Switzerland After a two-year hiatus, W&W; till take place from March 30 to April 5, 2022, at Palexpo, the con...